Oh That Car of Mine...

[Q451990]

Just remember that all shops work on a profit margin that not only includes the labor charge, but a parts markup as well. They may not be screwing you as much as you think. If they're using OEM parts, you will typically pay the same list price as you would if you weren't buying from Joe - while they're paying the "Joe price" because they're a shop. What bugs me is when you go somewhere and they put aftermarket stuff from NAPA on the car, and still charge you OEM Nissan retail prices for the part. Like anything else you have to educate yourself.

That said, it doesn't hurt to check...to get a breakdown of the parts cost and labor they're charging you - or find a frined with a driveway.

Heath

[Haitian_King]

Thanks. I'll take that into consideration. I was quoted around $1400 for the above mentioned work plus and alternator and installation.

I really don't mind putting money into the Q, but so much in such a short amount of time is a bit taxing for me. I'm trying to have my cake and eat it too I suppose.

[kimrober]

Any repair shop can locate and install new radiator in way less than 1 day.I went with a CSF brand radiator ,less than $200 for part, works perfectly so far{2 years}.

Really? Damn... my radiator broke last year and when I contacted my local shop, they said the part alone would cost around $900. So I ended up paying about $1,100 for new radiator plus the labor.

[Jesda]

I also went with a CSF radiator with metal end tanks. $190 shipped. Easy installation, excellent product.

[oldmako]

A competent rad shop can repair your current rad if it's not too messed up. Something to consider before you start whacking away at the old one (and your wallet from the sound of the quotes above).

A few years ago my trucks radiator began to leak. My plan was to replace it outright and start from scratch since I have no idea how old it was. While I was calling around getting quotes for a new one, a local shop convinced me to take mine over for a free repair estimate first. I ended up letting him replace the tanks, hoses, thermo and cap for less than 150 bucks. Talk about cheap and no fuss! Three years of hauling a boat and not one problem.

A grand for a radiator? YGBSM.

[Haitian_King]

This thread has been full of great advice. I hope others will learn from my mistakes. I think it's too late to stop what I put in motion, so I'll have to bite this financial bullet. This whole debacle could have been different if I hadn't panicked, but that's the way it went down. Next time I'll be cool, calm, and collected, but I guess I'll have to wait another 100k miles on this car.

Or, I would always just buy another one and fix that one the right way.

[unknown007]

I just bought a Aluminum radiator for $112 shipped will tell you how it goes.

[Q45tech]

Almost as important as the radiator integrity is the rubber and foam surround between rad perimeter and front opening/ mount. Any air leakage around the rad won't show up until extremes in summer temps.

[unknown007]

Forgot to say they also have the metal radiators for $122.I went with the one like I have now aluminum.Well stay posted.

[Q45tech]

Many people are satisfied with an inferior cooling system that cannot survive the extremes the factory engineers test to deliver and maintain during first 4 years of vehicle life.

After all to the non engineer what is a few degrees F or a steeper slope in the coolant vs idle time in traffic.

The way the interior coolant temp display is designed it is often too late by the time you notice any problem. As designed since during warranty almost impossible for a failure to occur.

[maxnix]

This is another good reason to keep your engine bay nice and clean. Any abnormality is easier to spot.

And the top of the engine V, the front and sides also. Lost on so many, especially when performing under plenum tasks.

[maxnix]

Almost as important as the radiator integrity is the rubber and foam surround between rad perimeter and front opening/ mount. Any air leakage around the rad won't show up until extremes in summer temps.

Even installed foam tape under crossover lines to plug that leak.

Many good reasons to retain aluminum radiator per OEM as opposed to brass substitute. Good idea to have one fabricated eliminating side ATF exchange tanks with auxiliary ATF coller installed. Might have to reengineer side foam seals.

Also, there is a lip on the bottom that is crucial to managing airflow also.

Be certain to replace hoses and the metal tube that serves as a the sacrifical anode.
Modified by maxnix at 11:08 AM 3/30/2009

[Haitian_King]

Well. I just parked my Darling Picky in front of the apartment.

The job consisted of:

Water Pump - 147.50Thermostat - $26.103 Multi Rib Belts - $23.67 $23.60 $18.90Acc. Belt Tension Pulley w/ adjuster - $78.22Acc. Belt Tension Pulley w/o adjuster - $56.73Acc. Belt Tension Pulley w/ adjuster - $67.10Factory Premium Anti-Freeze Coolant - $29.98 ($14.99 x 2)Alternator 110 Amp; Remanufactured - $285.07Shop Supply - $3.00Hazardous Materials - $5.00

Parts - $759.87Labor - $575Tax - $80.09

Grand Total - $1414.96

Somehow I saved $8.48 since the original estimate was $1423.44

The real kick in the nuts is that I found the Hitachi alternator brand new on eBay for $89. I'm thinking of buying it for my next Q just to have on hand.

Anywho, I'm happy to have my car back. Being without it was torture.

Hopefully, this will be the end of mechanical troubles for at least a couple of months. I really want to get started on restoring the exterior to factory. You know, getting rid of the yellow under the trim paint and such. I want to accomplish that during April, but it might get pushed back to May.

This turned out to be a mixed blessing. I had planned on buying the "Summerize Your Q" kit from IOS soon anyway. Just didn't think that the process was going to happen now.

I guess the next item on my list of things to go wrong will be the fuel pump. I should get one ready to pop in.

Thanks for all of the help guys!

[Haitian_King]

Even installed foam tape under crossover lines to plug that leak.

Many good reasons to retain aluminum radiator per OEM as opposed to brass substitute. Good idea to have one fabricated eliminating side ATF exchange tanks with auxiliary ATF coller installed. Might have to reengineer side foam seals.

Also, there is a lip on the bottom that is crucial to managing airflow also.

Be certain to replace hoses and the metal tube that serves as a the sacrifical anode.

Modified by maxnix at 11:08 AM 3/30/2009

Could you please post some pictures of the taped gap so I can get an idea?