Officially The Rb25 Propane Build thread!!

[240z4u]

No, I was referring to the pump your using to pump water through your cooler setup.

[rb25drag]

oh! I havent seen that pump. Is it made specific for pumping water? I will have to look it up.

[240z4u]

oh! I havent seen that pump. Is it made specific for pumping water? I will have to look it up.

http://www.race-mart.com/items...l.htm

It is actually a controller that is boost referenced and will control any electric motor. Its kind of pricy at about $300 but it beats having a 25amp draw from your pump motor when at idle!

Evan

[Darius]

Boost-a-pump!

http://www.kennebell.net/acces...p.htm

Edit: $250 for single fuel pump module.

[HxC_Nismo]

that booster pump should deffinitly take care of your 120-140deg iat temps under boost and should drop em down to atleast 110 or so. worth looking into though.

but man i would have to say you are probably the only propane powered rb in the world right now lol.

[Fibre guy]

If your into some simple wiring an AIR-LOGIC (like the V-5300) pressure switch and an adjustable resistor can be used. It would run about $40 total.

First you have the main + wire with an inline resistor to limit the amount voltage running to the pump. Then with the pressure switch you can adjust it to click on at say... 5"HG.When it clicks on it bypasses the resisted wire and lets the full 12v source to the pump.~~~~____Resistor__________~~~~~-+---<____Pressure switch____>---+---PUMP

I made a simple diagram as a reference.

Edit: It doesn't increase the amount of voltage like the others do. I think you would have to look into voltage amplifiers to do that. It would still be under $100... I just like to DIY anything possible & learn while doing it...
Modified by Fibre guy at 2:29 PM 9/29/2009

[rb25drag]

If your into some simple wiring an AIR-LOGIC (like the V-5300) pressure switch and an adjustable resistor can be used. It would run about $40 total.

First you have the main + wire with an inline resistor to limit the amount voltage running to the pump. Then with the pressure switch you can adjust it to click on at say... 5"HG.When it clicks on it bypasses the resisted wire and lets the full 12v source to the pump.~~~~____Resistor__________~~~~~-+---<____Pressure switch____>---+---PUMP

I made a simple diagram as a reference.

Edit: It doesn't increase the amount of voltage like the others do. I think you would have to look into voltage amplifiers to do that. It would still be under $100... I just like to DIY anything possible & learn while doing it...

Modified by Fibre guy at 2:29 PM 9/29/2009

HAHA I like the DIY idea lol

Thanks for the diagram. I got alot of info now to look into.

These amplifiers would be cool to use. My question would be how long would an electric pump last with 22volts crankin it over? Thats almost double the voltage it was designed for. IMO it would burn up pretty quickly.

As would your idea of the resister and pressure switch. I would think lower than 12 volts would burn it up just as quickly.

I could do a Potentiometer as a resistor for that idea tho.

I will have to re-search what they can and cannot take as a fuel pump has more of a range in amps.

Now at Idle once the car is warmed up. The Intake temps actually rise. I can throttle it to around 2k and it will start dropping the intake temps.

So the flow of my pump is not enough at idle also.

BUT!!!! I know 1 of my problems with the pump. I know I am robbing power from it cause I have it wired in the same Relay as my Electric fans.

I am going to re-wire it on its own seperate relay and switch soon.

But also The water pump has like 18gage factory wires out of it. SO i know the pump will not take more than 15amps before it starts to melt the wires.

Thats another reason IDK if that voltage amplifier would work. I would be afraid of melting it due to such small wires.

Keep throwing idea's at me lol, Im always down to try something new

[Fibre guy]

Well what about limiting the amount of amperage instead of voltage?

I do think there is a staged vacuum referenced switch by either MAC valves or AIR-LOGIC...

I think the voltage amplifiers convert AMPs into more DC voltage. For example 30A~12v = 15A~24v? Just a guess, don't hold me to it. I just know those "pump boosters" have a HUGE amp draw.

According to Thomas J. Clover's "Pocket Reference 3rd ed." 18 gauge wire cannot exceed 14amps at 194*F.IMO, I think you should open up the pump case and solder in 14 gauge wire because it can take 25 continuous amps. Better for longevity/reliablilty.

At least now you know the pump doesn't have more than a 15A start-up draw...

[rb25drag]

Yeah it wouldnt be hard to swap wires. We have another pump I can experiment with on the voltage stuff. I really need to get the pump on its own circuit as the next step. I bet it picks up some volume. If so It should do alot better. I don't think I will have time before the dyno tho, I believe were going either friday or sat.

Also Another issue I have is I don't have my hood scoop cut out yet to allow a vent in the hood. I really need to do that soon. I bet that would drop the engine bay temps by 20-40 degree's and prob would help alot on the intake heat soak.

[l0nestar]

That is all. :thumbsup

[rb25drag]

Well Its been a while since an Update.

First off, I ran into several more issue's with the fuel. But I believe it was a tank issue. I changed tanks and was able to get a good street tune on 12psi.

2nd, The water cooler. I have been having pump issue's with not enough flow. I was able to fix this issue by tanking out my radiator cooler for the intercooler. It now Flows PLENTY of water. It was a huge restriction.

3rd, I have not been a ble to get to the dyno, They have been full or I have been busy.

But I was able to get to the track yesterday. I was ready to see how the new setup reacted. I have not been since last yr. I had a new suspension setup, New turbo and fuel system so Who knows how it all was going to work.

After arriving at the track I was fixing to unload the car off the trailer and I noticed something that looked like a string hangin on the inside of the tire. SO I crawled under it and looked and sure enough I had a HUGE chunk gone out of my tire and It was on the verg Of coming apart! Which really ticked me off cause I basically wasted a trip. I had No idea the tire was bad.

So I debated and decided i wasnt leaving without 1 launch. So I unloaded and got ready to make a pass.

The 1st pass I launched and It spun out of the gate, I backed off and Got back in it, Of course it bogged by this time. It picked back up about 300' and went 8.54@90mphHorrible 2.1 60ft

So I was kinda mad over the launch and I did a 2nd pass ( I really was pushing my luck with that front tire bad)

The 2nd pass it bogged again off the line and again didnt pick up power till past the 300ft mark. Went 8.87@88mph Worse 2.4 60ft

SO I determined Its not going to launch with that turbo without my 2step.Which I can hook up No problem.

The Car Pulled EXTREMELY hard on top end. But the first 300-400ft It was a dog.

2 passes is all I risked making. But here is a couple video's of the passes. This will give you an Idea of the propane setup running.

[240z4u]

Nice to see your still chugging along on this project. Nice work dood.

[Darius]

If your into some simple wiring an AIR-LOGIC (like the V-5300) pressure switch and an adjustable resistor can be used. It would run about $40 total.

First you have the main + wire with an inline resistor to limit the amount voltage running to the pump. Then with the pressure switch you can adjust it to click on at say... 5"HG.When it clicks on it bypasses the resisted wire and lets the full 12v source to the pump.~~~~____Resistor__________~~~~~-+---<____Pressure switch____>---+---PUMP

I made a simple diagram as a reference.

Edit: It doesn't increase the amount of voltage like the others do. I think you would have to look into voltage amplifiers to do that. It would still be under $100... I just like to DIY anything possible & learn while doing it...

Modified by Fibre guy at 2:29 PM 9/29/2009

This is how the RX-8 fuel pump is wired in stock form, but it is for mileage and not for performance. This setup works great if he already had a pump sized for maximum power requirements. However, it will not get his current fuel pump to pump any more. Hence, why he needs a unit to increase voltage to the pump.

And with regard to the comment on amp draw through a boost-a-pump unit, yes there is a lot. That is why people who are looking at upgrading their fuel system in any S-chassis should consider running heavier gauge wire in place of the dinky 18 GA wire that is run all the way to the back of the car. It would probably produce considerable heat, like you said, and act as a small resistor if a boost-a-pump was installed.

[rb25drag]

The Water pump issue I have fixed.

It averages on a 80 degree day 90 Degree intake temps as your cruisin down the highway. Now when you get into it under boost. From a Stop 1st 2nd and by the end of 3rd gear the intake temps are up to 140 Degree's.

But within 10 seconds of back out of the throttle and back to hwy cruisin it is back down to 100 degree's

Now when its cold outside. Been a few 50 degree days around here it wants to run anywere from 52-64 degree intake temps.

So The cooler works really nice.

Now I gotta get the 2 step hooked up, Some front tires and I need to align the front end before I go back to the track.

Hopefully some dyno numbers soon. Im just waiting on my guys to get me in.

[95jordan240]

any updates???

[bobob729]

got a question i'm going megaquirt on my rb25 how did you mount your trigger wheel and how much did you have to shave down on the back of the crank pulley and way you could make me the bracket for the vr sensor too?

[Sil240]

How about a temp switch for the water. The easiest and cheapest solution.

[rb25drag]

got a question i'm going megaquirt on my rb25 how did you mount your trigger wheel and how much did you have to shave down on the back of the crank pulley and way you could make me the bracket for the vr sensor too?

Sorry it took me so long to get back. Its been a while since I have been on.

All you have to do is have a machine shop set your crank pulley in a lathe, the will have to cut off the exact diameter of the 36-1 crank trigger wheel. So that the pulley is the same depth as stock. After that you will have to cut the center of the crank trigger wheel out to fit the coller of the crank wheel. Then all you gotta do is tach weld the wheel to the pulley then your done.

As for the vr sensor setup. All i did was made a bracket the held the sensor and set everything up and welded the tab to my timing cover. Its extremely strong. I have never had an issue with it. Just remember the clearance between the sensor and wheel is EXTREMELY tight, so make sure you get everything straight.

AS for an update. I have been driving the car for a few months now with 0 issues. It Runs awesome!! It was the best setup IMO for a dependable rb swap.

But I have Put the car up forsale. So if you guys know anyone who wants a sweet UNIQUE ride for about 1/2 price send them my way. Im looking for LS1 car. My next project is going to be a turbo Ls1.

zer...-nico

[rb25drag]

I would part the motor and trans from the car if someone on here is interested. 4k for the entire setup. You cant beat that for all that has been done to it. Im loosing my a$$< But im ready to do a lS TURBO SETUP, wether it be in the 240 or something else.