OFFICIAL: NicoClub's Rally 240SX, by Finnish Fury Rallysport

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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Ender_Zero
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Car: '03 Base Z, '91 S13 Coupe

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gmac708 wrote:Looking good Ian. Keep the updates coming!
FlatBlackIan wrote:I will if you will.
I am watching both of you intently. Great job.

I'm loving the patching. Spartan. All Business. Keep it up!



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PEZi
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time to start chasing ken block ian.... lol

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IanS
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PEZi720 wrote:time to start chasing ken block ian.... lol
Oh not you too. My boss has been giving me that for weeks.

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IanS
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Ender_Zero wrote:I'm loving the patching. Spartan. All Business. Keep it up!
Function > Form. Its going to get the crap kicked out of it anyway, I have no need for it to be pretty. Besides, Im pretty sure those plates are not the strongest part of the floorpan.

Finished up the second whole.



Thats pretty much my whole update for tonight.

Just one little teaser before I go. My suspension stuff is finally all here. Time to reinvent the wheel.



Look at them damper pistons. Your drift coils got nothing on these bad boys.



I will leave you guys with that. Hopefully I will have pictures of the chassis going to Davenport Racing tomorrow.

hbpignosePA
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90 volvo 240 (sold)
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now stop being lazy and rebuild the rack/ depowered and take picks

looks sweet as usual

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Bumnah
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Nice someone is dropping in z32 rear uprights.

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Hooked on 240
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This project makes me wet.

Keep it coming!

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IanS
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hbpignosePA wrote:now stop being lazy and rebuild the rack/ depowered and take picks

looks sweet as usual
Hahaha, I bought all the caps I need, just waiting till the car is gone.
Bumnah wrote:Nice someone is dropping in z32 rear uprights.
Actually I have not decided yet. I may choose to stick with stock, and modify the shock mount. Its on my, to be figured out, list.

lbreevesii
Posts: 190
Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2005 2:59 pm
Car: S13 hatch LeMons project - Kaputzen!
BMW E30
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Good stuff man!

Have fun with the bushings. I've read the guides posted up here, but i've got a feeling its gonna be more fun that i'm anticipating.

Well actually i've done front radius arm bushings and sway bushings and endlinks but that is just scratching the surface.

Btw, tip on the radius arm bushings- Do it somewhere clean, that lube is sticky as hell! Also you'll need ot get the center bushing pressed in so that its on the verge of popping out in order to get the center rod in...Just one of those pro-tips that nobody has mentioned that i've seen. Took me 15min. the first time, 5min on the second one.

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IanS
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lbreevesii wrote:Good stuff man!

Have fun with the bushings. I've read the guides posted up here, but i've got a feeling its gonna be more fun that i'm anticipating.

Well actually i've done front radius arm bushings and sway bushings and endlinks but that is just scratching the surface.

Btw, tip on the radius arm bushings- Do it somewhere clean, that lube is sticky as hell! Also you'll need ot get the center bushing pressed in so that its on the verge of popping out in order to get the center rod in...Just one of those pro-tips that nobody has mentioned that i've seen. Took me 15min. the first time, 5min on the second one.
Hahahahahah, you're preaching to the choirs. I have done 2 full polyurathane bushing kits already, one of which was on my S14. I've pretty much got it down. That being said, Im still NOT looking forward to it.

PHeller
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Did you get the 5/8" bushing for the Tein hats/camber plates?

lbreevesii
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FlatBlackIan wrote:
Hahahahahah, you're preaching to the choirs. I have done 2 full polyurathane bushing kits already, one of which was on my S14. I've pretty much got it down. That being said, Im still NOT looking forward to it.
haha thought i'd share just in case

Got any protips for me? I've still got all these other bastids to do.

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kouki munster
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lbreevesii wrote:
haha thought i'd share just in case

Got any protips for me? I've still got all these other bastids to do.
The only fun you'll have while swapping the bushings is when you burn out the factory rubber ones.

lbreevesii
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Tru dat. Speaking of which, did anybody else have a hard time getting the suckers to burn? I didn't make much headway on those front radius arm bushings with my propane torch for some reason. It was late so I said screw it and took them by a shop with a press the next day. 5 min later, I was good to go.

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Didderson
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Yes, it takes a bit of time to get them started. Once you burn the outside use a screwdriver to wiggle the bolt sleeve around that will loosen it up.

Also spraying WD-40 on it and letting that soak will work wonders. Don't be afraid to use wd40 as a blow torch as well!

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IanS
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lbreevesii wrote: Tru dat. Speaking of which, did anybody else have a hard time getting the suckers to burn? I didn't make much headway on those front radius arm bushings with my propane torch for some reason. It was late so I said screw it and took them by a shop with a press the next day. 5 min later, I was good to go.
Eh, burning them out takes too long, smokes too much, and makes too much of a mess. I use a torch to heat the outside of the bushing to loosen them up, then I ram them out with my ball joint vise.**Update**Question. How do you get a car with no wheels or suspension onto a trailer?MEN.1, 2, 3, LIFT!!Dont let Cale fool you, it wasnt nearly heavy as you might gather from his facial expression.Break time.I am the truck motor.I think J-Lak is sad to see it go.J-Lak is all that is man. All he needs now is some maple syrup.Good to go.Man my space is a mess. Cleaning should be easier without a car in the way.After a little driving, we offloaded the car at Davenport Racing. Doug was out, so we set the car on his frame dolly, and put a car cover on it. Hopefully I will be picking it up sometime before christmas. If everything goes well, I should have the car primed around New Years.Back in the Man Cave, I cleaned up a little bit quick. I will be going through everything over the next few weeks. I have a lot of stuff to throw out, and some stuff here and there to sell. Like those SE-R wheels.Thats it for tonight. Hopefully I will get some work done either Sunday or Monday.Id like to shout out a big thanks to everyone who helped me move the car, especially J-Lak, Ryan, Josh, and Shane. Dont worry, I will figure out some way or another to compensate you.

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IanS
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Im just heading out now toget started with the coilovers. I will update tonight.

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IanS
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**Update**

I got started building my coilovers. I will run through everything here as I progress. Once I have them fully assembled, I will create a new thread to detail everything

I took the whole lot of them to work, and pressed off the springs.



The spring and all the mounting stuff on the left, is useless to me.



I started by drilling a small hole in the bottom of the strut tube to drain the oil. These struts were blown, so there was no pressure left in them. If you have unblown struts, be very careful.



After letting what oil I could out, I cut off the factory spring perches. It helps if you cut them in half.



With the seat off, all thats left is a bead of weld, this will serve as the support for the new seats.



With the seat off, I then cut around the top cap.



And I slid out the old damper.



Bare tubes. Man they are dirty.



Cleaned off all the nasty old paint, and rust buildup. The tubes themselves are actually in pretty good shape, despite all the surface rust.



As you can see, the new Bilstiens are not quite as long as the factory dampers. This is not ideal for me, as I would like to have as much travel as possible. At a later date I may switch to a longer unit, though I need to do more research. For the price I can afford to play around. The benifit is, a damper this long is perfect for most S chassis owners as it makes lowering the car easier.



I decided to chop the bottom of the tube off. This will allow me to make the most of the travel I will have, while also increasing ride height slightly.



chopped.





Thats better.



I cut a 2" disk out of 11 gauge steel. This will be the new cap.





The I drilled a hole. The new dampers are bolted to the bottom of the tubes.



Tacked in place.



Solid as a rock. I ran the welder real hot to get good penetration.



Cleaned up.





Stock vs shortened.





Test fitting the damper. Fits like a glove.



I will need to modify the upper spring seat, and pillowball mount, but just for fun I put everything else together temporarily.





Once I have both tubes modified I will paint them. Im thinking silver, what do you guys think?

I hope to pick up new hardware tomorrow or Tuesday. Hopefully I can get them both modified and painted by the end of the week. Then it will be time to start on the rears.

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King Ranzo
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Looking good Ian.

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Razi
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That's an awesome setup, Ian.You should get them sandblasted or something, the rust is bugging me. :P

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IanS
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Razi wrote:That's an awesome setup, Ian.You should get them sandblasted or something, the rust is bugging me. :P
I will be cleaning them up real pretty. I want to get them all fitted, and ready first. So I dont have to do it twice.

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Razi
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Roger that.

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IanS
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Razi wrote:Roger that.
What color should I paint the strut tubes? Im thinking silver, or maybe Bilstien yellow.

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DMan II-40
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I think the gold color to match the GC spring perch and the camber plate would look good.

Wonder why you made the shock go higher, more people make it sit lower so you get more shack travel.

PHeller
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I notice the bolt doesn't stick out the top. Any pics of the front camber plates?

Will you be using spring tenders to get full droop? I'd imagine the shocks might be able to extend more than the springs allow?

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PEZi
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making coils........ fun fun

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Razi
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FlatBlackIan wrote:
What color should I paint the strut tubes? Im thinking silver, or maybe Bilstien yellow.
Hmm I think yellow would be nice, show it off a little. Or gold like suggested.

It'd look nice before it starts getting covered with dirt.

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PEZi
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pink ian.... pink

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Razi
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Kickin it old school.I remember when JDM "safety pink" was all the hype a few years ago.

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PEZi
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i might powder coat my suspension pink after i finish it


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