update: issues and maintenance on 2003 Pathfinder SE

[2003Pathfinder]

Hi, Guys,

I just noticed this issue but got few clues from google.

I got a 2003 Pathfinder SE automatic. low miles 46K. lightly driven, as you can tell from the mileage. I mostly drive an Accord because of the high gas price these years.

Every time after I drive the pathfinder over 30 miles or less, I can feel the rising temperature on the left side (driver side) of the transmission gear shift cover. It is the plastic cover between the transmission shift and the transfer case shift (which controls the 4 wheel drive). It seems the passenger side of the trans shift cover is in normal temperature. The heat is not disturbing unless I put my hand onto the plastic cover.

Is this just a normal phenomena? I googled, and went into a mazda miata forum. Some people there point to adding a layer of reflective/heat absorbing wraps. I don't know if such idea is really necessary for my pathy. any ideas? folks.

http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/showth ... hlight=hot

[Towncivilian]

Welcome to NICO.

This is normal, and was a more common occurrence with older Pathfinders (1987 - 1995 WD21 models). It's just normal transmission heat.

Nice that you've got such a low mileage Pathfinder! If you've never changed the transfer case and transmission fluids, I would do so. In fact, go ahead and change the rest of the fluids (differentials, power steering, brake, and coolant) if they have not been done recently, and be sure to grease the driveshafts every oil change with any NLGI No. 2 lithium soap base grease. Details on changing most of these fluids can be found in this thread. Be sure to download a copy of the factory service manual - instructions are at the top of that thread.

Have your Pathfinder inspected for the strut housing corrosion recall if it hasn't been yet.

[2003Pathfinder]

Thank you so much for the reply and welcome advice too. Now my concern eased, my wife's too :-)
Yes, I got the the strut housing corrosion recall on the truck, and serviced in local dealer.

I bought the truck three years ago with 37K miles. In these years, I lightly drove it and only put 10K onto it. Not because I didn't like to drive it, but I tend to choose lower gas car to save gas bills.

I changed the transmission fluid a week ago. It was dirty. For transfer case fluid, I plan to change it this weekend.
I never change differentials fluid, power steering, and brake fluids. Adding coolant from time to time when I found its level was low.

Now I come out a question. when you talk about changing fluids for transfer case, differentials, power steering, brake and coolant. Do you mean just drain and refill? Or I need to do a complete flush using some vacuum tool.

[Towncivilian]

All but brake are drain & fills.

Use a turkey baster to siphon & refill fluid from the power steering fluid reservoir. Use a synthetic automatic transmission fluid as replacement fluid - it'll lower operating temperatures and have better cold weather performance.

Grab a gallon jug of undiluted Nissan green coolant (999MP-AF000P), dilute it with a gallon of distilled or demineralized water, and do a drain & fill of the radiator and overflow reservoir (flush the overflow reservoir with distilled water - just pour distilled through it to flush it until clear water emerges). More steps are in the general info thread I linked.

Diffs & transfer case are simple drain & fills - torque specs and fill capacities are in the general info thread. You can get 5qt of Mobil 1 LS 75W-90 fluid from Advance Auto Parts for the diffs for pretty cheap if you order online using discount codes and pick-up in store. I'd suggest a fluid pump to make filling the diffs easier.

Brake fluid flush will require your wife's help. Google "brake fluid flush" for general instructions. Follow the correct bleeding order listed in the general info thread.

How low did your coolant level get? It shouldn't lower more than a few ounces per 6 months or so due to evaporation.

[2003Pathfinder]

thanks, man. I will try doing those fluid work. Hope I can get some free time in following weekends.

[Towncivilian]

Good luck! Feel free to post again if you need some help with anything.

[2003Pathfinder]

you bet, man, very informative website. it is much more helpful than http://www.thenissanpath.com/. I am positive that my pathy is due on many things, even though it is low on mileage.

I feel the engine stalls recently, especially when the gas level is low. My best guess is the fuel filter is going. I should have replaced it a year ago. lazy me. No engine light on yet. well, could be the ignition coil too.

Just found the service guide. nice website, man.

[Towncivilian]

Right, I forgot to mention the fuel filter. Clogged fuel filters generally don't cause idle problems, but it's a wise idea to change it anyways. There's a DIY guide here.

Generally a faulty ignition coil pack would throw an engine code, and from the 2001.5 model year, ignition coil packs are not nearly as widespread from what I've experienced.

[2003Pathfinder]

thanks again, man. owe you a million!
I hope it is just the fuel filter. no engine light on yet. I just checked the price on coil packs. A set of six non-oem ones cost more than 300 bucks. out of my expectation. there are cheapy ones on ebay, but I am afraid those won't last. I got finger crossed.

[Towncivilian]

Stalling issues could also be MAF related, crankshaft position sensor related, or wiring related. Since your car has sat for a while over time, it's possible rodents have damaged wiring here and there which can lead to intermittent issues such as yours.

I would clean the MAF sensor (use MAF cleaner spray only; the MAF sensor is likely secured by two T20 security Torx bits; disconnect the negative battery terminal before disconnecting the MAF harness) and replace the fuel filter and see if your intermittent stall issue still occurs.

The images in the fuel filter DIY thread are unfortunately dead - I'll try to solve that soon. Page MA-17 of the factory service manual has similar instructions, however.

[2003Pathfinder]

Update:

I replaced the fuel filter following the guide in this website. the guide is nicely written with good pictures. Extremely helpful. I got into the same trouble of rusty bracket. I applied penetrating lubricant, and eventually managed to get bracket back into its shape. no need to order new bracket from nissan.

I also changed the rear differential fluid. I used a torque wrench to loose and tight up the fill plug and drain plug. the hand pump is helpful in filling.

But I got trouble in changing the front differential fluid. Basically, I can't use the toque wretch to unscrew the fill plug. I didn't use jack stand or ramps. the clearance is good enough for me to lay under the truck, but in order to loose the fill plug, the torque wrench with a long handle is prohibitive to make any movements. Any advice? I don't have a lifter, the key issue is the wrench's handle is long that there is no space to turn it.

I will do MAF sensor cleaning and transfer case fluid change next weekend.

Another thing came into my mind. I found there is decent amount of rust under the truck. I am in NJ, cars easily get rusty during winter or rainy time.
I bought a bottle of silicone spray from autozone, and hope it can prevent further rust. do you have any experience in preventing or removing rust?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... 828521_0_0_

[Towncivilian]

You should not ever use a torque wrench to loosen fasteners since this can foul the calibration of the torque wrench.

I'm afraid I don't have any advice regarding the front differential fill plug since my Pathfinder is 2WD. Hopefully someone else will chime in with some helpful info.

I don't know much about rust prevention or removal either, sorry.

[2003Pathfinder]

thanks for the reply, towncivilian. I realized you are in florida, luckier for not much attention on the rust.

ok, I got a free day today and did following maintenance items.

change the transfer case fluid. similar procedure as changing the rear differential fluid. simple drain and fill. the painful part is that I don't have jack stands or ramps. so imagine how nimble I am.

the front differential fluid change is out of my hand. I tried to use an u-joint socket wrench, still no luck on the fill plug. so I brought the truck to a local shop. they did it for me. 30 bucks, done!

Did the MAF sensor cleaning. watched a few videos on youtube. thanks for mentioning the T20 Torx bits. Fortunately I have one at home.

so after these two days' work, the stalling issue is gone. The truck runs crispy like before. I can feel the truck moves easier and the pedal is lighter. I think it is mainly due to the new fuel filter and cleaned MAF sensor.

my next DIY job is to work on the brakes. will look for jack stands for sure. I seriously suspect that the brakes are still original, since I bought it three years ago with 37K miles. I didn't change them.

Thanks a lot, Towncivilian.

[Towncivilian]

Great to hear it! Make sure you grease your front driveshaft periodically too.

We've got a good how-to guide on front brakes, rotors & regreasing wheel bearings here.

You're quite welcome, I'm glad to be of help

[2003Pathfinder]

Actually, I found the grease fitting point in the front shaft. I noticed that the guide (in this forum) mentioned NLGI No. 2 lithium soap base grease. I checked autozone. It doesn't have such type on stock. Shall I get it from dealer or any other alternatives?

[Towncivilian]

Nearly all greases you find in a tube will meet NLGI No. 2. If AutoZone has Valvoline SynPower in the tubes your grease gun accepts, I would use that grease. It's easily the best commonly found grease available in my opinion.

[2003Pathfinder]

greased the front drive shaft today. when I grease the shaft, the grease leaked out from the boot. in a bad angle, I couldn't immediately found the leak. I realized until a big drop of grease fell to the ground. I hope this won't hurt the seals.

After that, I was checking the vehicle, looking for other grease fittings.
unfortunately I can't find others, not a single one. Seems that the car is not greasable except the front drive shaft. most parts are sealed.

to do in the future:

1. flush the coolant.

2. change brake pads.

[Towncivilian]

That should be fine, just don't make a habit of overgreasing the driveshaft like that. At least you know all the current grease is fresh and all the same grease now. That fitting is indeed the only one from the factory on our Pathfinders. Aftermarket suspension components may be greaseable.

[2003Pathfinder]

thanks for the comfort, man. I tested driving for a while, and used the 4 wheel mode.
the intention is to push the extra grease out. I saw some extra grease leaking out after the test run. I just wiped it off.