NOOB igniter chip question

Website · Post by **USMCgetsome** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 3:38 pm

ok they pulse but backwards. i get the 5v then power kicks on and it 0.0v then 5.85v untill i stop cranking. this is the 7pin connector.

i'm leaning towards bad ecu. also about this white body plug. well you know what i don't have the other end. and sob. what do you know i went to the junk yard and i didn't understand what i was looking for. does that other white plug from ka come from a lil ecu behind the big ecu? if so there was a few there at the junkyard but i didn't see any other plugs that looked the same

Post by **IvoryJ30t** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 3:53 pm

im not sure what the white plug is. i would have to see where the wiring goes.

connect a coil pack, hook the ignitor up, put a spark plug on the coil, make sure the spark plug is grounded, and crank. make sure the spark plug is firing.

i suppose the initial voltage is ok, as long as it drops to 0 when the engine isnt cranking, and you get pulses when you crank the motor.

see if the ignitor is working, [with the spark plug test, its easier to do a spark plug ignitor test then it is to do my test with a LED/test light and a jumper wire]

Website · Post by **USMCgetsome** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 4:14 pm

all six spark. woo hoo. still no start just crank. might be because the step 2 is to connect the 2 white plugs together and well i don't have the other plug. thats why i asked if it was to the smaller ecu behind the big main ecu.

Just a brief description on what's been going on. I paid someone $1500 to do the swap with mckinney motor mounts. they tell me i have an ignition problem and that it would cost me another 1,000 to finish up.

So here we are and i'm still assed out. but i think that the white body plug will probably solve this prob.

Website · Post by **USMCgetsome** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 4:15 pm

thanks for all the assistance soo far.

Post by **IvoryJ30t** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 4:17 pm

you can also test the ignitor by connecting your meter.

put the meter in resistance/continuity mode.

positive probe to one of the pins on the 6 pin terminal ON THE IGNITOR.

negative probe to ground.

make sure the ignitor is plugged in [7 pin connection]

with the car on, but no cranking, there should be high resistance/no continuity.

with the car cranking, there should be low resistance/good continuity.

instead of overworking your starter/battery during all of this, you can take the CPS off, and spin it by hand, mimicing cranking.

if you take the CPS off, make sure to matchmark it, and to spin it in the correct direction [counterclockwise if looking directly at the drive pin, with the face of the cps that you normally see facing away from you]

Post by **IvoryJ30t** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 4:18 pm

GOOD!!!! we have spark now.

are you sure the injectors are firing?

im sorry that i cant help you with the white plug. do you know what wires live in that plug?

and no problem about the help. im gonna be here for another 1- 1 1/2 hours.

Post by **IvoryJ30t** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 4:41 pm

if the injectors are working, heres something else to check.

make sure the fuel lines are not reversed.

at the fuel rail, disconnect both the hose from the fuel filter, and the hose for the tank return.

swap them.

try to start car.

[be careful!!! without a running engine to relieve pressure, the lines will be pressurized!!]

Website · Post by **USMCgetsome** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 11:13 pm

ok swapped fuel lines and it made a sucking noise at the fuel pump. so i swapped em back. ecu has 12v signal for all 6 injectors i haven't checked from the ecu to the plug yet. will do tomorrow.

Website · Post by **USMCgetsome** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 1:36 pm

ok fuel injetor harness....

grey plug 7 pin female plug

notch up left to right

12vdc constant10 then drops when i put it to groundsame samesame samesame

i can smell the oil on the plug but no fuel smell.. injectors are wired up to thier individual harness but i can't find the ground they all share. hmmmmmmmmm.

but when i check it from the ecu 101-12v103-12v105-12v110-12v112-12v114-12v

107, 108, 116, 60, 59, 10, 20, ecu pins ground good

Post by **IvoryJ30t** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 2:00 pm

the injectors are grounded to the ecu, thats how the ecu controls the injectors.

if you get 12v at the injectors terminals at the ecu plug, then the injectors are wired correctly.

at the 7 pin plug going to the ignitor, the voltage should be 0 when the motor isnt running. positive pulses on 6 of the 7 pins is how the ecu sends the ignition signals.

Website · Post by **USMCgetsome** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 2:07 pm

can you check my other posts as well. about the brown plug mine is white and i think i put pin 43 at ecu to (grey red) to the right wire. my white ecu plug does have an orange with grey strip wire but that's it.

Post by **IvoryJ30t** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 2:31 pm

seeing those plugs means very little to me.

im going from my general knowledge, and the print for the rb25det.

if you were able to ID what the actual wires in the harness you are unsure about are for, then i would be able to help out more as far as those plugs go.

or if you know what the junction ID for the plug is, i can look it up.

what year is your car?

Website · Post by **USMCgetsome** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 2:46 pm

89 240sx the red grey wire to orange is supposed to be ignition switch to ecu.

Post by **IvoryJ30t** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 2:56 pm

i dont get it, what exactly are you trying to trace?

let me check, i think i might have an 89 s13 fsm on my laptop.

Post by **IvoryJ30t** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 3:35 pm

the ignition switch to ecu wire will be orange on the cars original wiring.

Website · Post by **USMCgetsome** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 9:28 pm

i have 2 wiring diagrams with the eccs relay and ign relay that don't make sense. this is the orange wire coil ground apparently. Now in the jdm rb25det diagram i see these 2 orange wires connect and go to pin 16 on ecu. then on the other from megalla only the eccs relay coil #2 pin of coil goes to 16 of ecu plug and the ign coil #1 goes to ground and #2 goes to a 75a fuse then to the ign switch. ?????? how's is yours setup?

Post by **IvoryJ30t** » Sat Nov 20, 2004 4:35 pm

i havent done it yet. my friend has an s14 se thats waiting for him to get back from the military, and im gonna rb25 it in a few months.

in the shop i used to work at, i was the electrical tech. they had me do everything from motor swaps, to fixing botched motor swaps, to rewiring theft recovery vehicles, and stereo installs.

i printed out the schematic for an 89 s13, and the r33 rb25.

dont get too worked up about the wire colors.

now, remember to use the wire color from the rb25 print for any of the rb wiring, and to use the s13 wire colors for any of the cars wiring.

now, the wiring shown for the KA's ignition system is going to be completely obsolete with the RB, so ignore it.

look at the RB schematic. make a note of what wires have constant power, and what wires have switched power [from the eccs relay, for example.]

what schematic are you looking at? does it say "tachometer" at the bottom right, "diagnosic port pinout" at the upper right, and "eccs relay" at the upper left?

Website · Post by **USMCgetsome** » Sat Nov 20, 2004 4:58 pm

guess what brother i know wtf is going on with the fuel now.. i get fuel to the rail but not though the injectors and my buddy was tellin me about fuel pressure. soo i'm off to purchase a new walbro 255lph fuel pump.

I narrowed down the culpriate it has something to dow with the 12v system in the ha cluster. if i unplug the one that has brakes, seatbelt, door warning everything works correctly. i plug just that one back in and it all goes to ****. i think that the 12vdc coming from the brown plug is the problem. i'm thinking of just cutting straight into the KEY SWITCH itself and getting the start signal from there.

The brown plug i'm sure it's coming from the cluster and something there is jacked up. soo i'm looking at the relays for that.

Post by **IvoryJ30t** » Sat Nov 20, 2004 5:06 pm

hold on, changing the fuel pump will not solve the injectors not working.

the stock fuel pump would allow the car to start and drive, just not support elevated boost levels.

ok, so the car cranks, the plugs fire, but the injectors arent firing?

lets take it one step at a time. you get ahead of yourself, and you compound the problems more. once the motor starts and runs, then make changes to it.

Website · Post by **USMCgetsome** » Sun Nov 21, 2004 3:21 am

check this out, i'm such a doofus. i looked at 3 different types of wiring diagrams and found that #3 on the coil packs and #1 on the fuel injector plug goes to pin 45 of ecu which is the ign switch signal.

Went to go look at fuel pump last night and the power wire broke off the top side of the pump. also, off to junk yard to find a replacement.

Post by **IvoryJ30t** » Mon Nov 22, 2004 5:57 am

see, if i had the normal style service manual for the rb25, this would go much easier.

im working off of a 4000x3000 pixel image of the ECU circuitry that takes forever to resize, move, ect.

ok, pin 45-

pin 45 is wired assuming there is a seperate relay for the ignition coils.

a switched power line comes from the ignition switch. this line is active when the key is in the ON [run] and start positions.the line comes from the ignition switch, and runs to pin 45, and to one side of the ignition relay. the other side of the ignition relay feeds power to the coil packs. [the line is a common positive feed, it goes to all coil packs, not just number 1]

the relays coil is energized by being powered from the ignition switch line [same wire] and is grounded to pin 16 [the eccs relay ground].

also, make sure pin 49, 59, and 109 have 12v from the eccs relay.

pin 43 is the start signal. you should get 12v on this wire when the key is turned to "start"

pin 58 is constant 12v power. you should have power on this pin at all times.

pins 10, 20, 107, 108, 116 should all be grounded.

NOOB igniter chip question

ok fuel injectors

also,

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