No Start Condition '93 D21 2.4L KA24E

[curt99]

After completing all tests for a NO START CONDITION ENGINE COLD from the FSM, this little truck still will not start. It cranks and is on the verge of starting, but won't. I am attaching the list of disgnostic procedures that I have completed on this vehicle.

8/12/2011 2:17:42 AM
DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE & REPAIR RECORD
1993 Nissan Hardbody D21 Pickup 2.4L (KA24E)
Completed on 08-11-11
* Repaired Air Cleaner Assembly Removed melted Crankcase Ventilation Intake Port and fabricated replacement assembly.
* Removed & Repaired Starter Motor Complete disassembly, cleaning, inspection, and reassembly of starter motor. Resurfaced commutator bars & dressed carbon brushes for proper seating.
* Verify Cylinder Firing Order 1 – 3 – 4 – 2 In Counterclockwise Direction - PASSED
1.0 Diagnostic Procedure Number 4 – Hard to Start or Impossible to Start when the
Engine is Cold. No Start Condition Tests: Battery, Starter, Fuel Pressure, Fast Idle Cam, Fuel Injectors, Ignition Signal, Spark Plugs, Electronic Control Module (ECM) Harness Connector, ECM Power Supply and Ground Circuit.
1.1 Electrical Component Inspection Check Battery and Starter
1.1.1 Battery – FAILED/replaced
1.1.2 Starter - Repaired
1.2 Electrical Component Inspection Fuel Pump Circuit Continuity- PASSED
1.3 Diagnostic Procedure 38 Fuel Pump - PASSED
1.3.1 Initial @ 60 PSI - PASSED
1.3.2 Resting @ 40 PSI - PASSED
1.4 Electrical Component Inspection Fuel Pump Relay Circuit Continuity – PASSED
1.5 Diagnostic Procedure Number 27 Ignition Signal
1.5.1 Check Power Supply to Ignition Coil Harness Connector - PASSED
1.5.2 Check Ground Circuit Harness Continuity – PASSED
1.5.3 Check Input Signal Circuit - PASSED
1.5.4 Check Output Signal Circuit - PASSED
1.5.5 Check Ignition Components
1.5.6.0 Electrical Component Inspection Ignition Coil Specified Resistance Approx 0.7 ohms
1.5.6.1 Actual Resistance 1.2 ohms - PASSED
1.5.7.0 Electrical Component Inspection Check Continuity By Polarity Between Power transmission Terminals
1.5.7.1 Terminals a(+) & b(−) 0 ohms - PASSED
1.5.7.2 Terminals a(−) & b(+) 164.7 0hms - PASSED
1.5.7.3 Terminals a(+) & c(−) 0 0hms - PASSED
1.5.7.4 Terminals a(−) & c(+) 164.4 0hms - PASSED
1.5.8.0 Electrical Component Inspection Check ECM pin terminals and ECM harness for damage - PASSED
1.5.9.0 Electrical Component Inspection Ignition and Condenser - PASSED
2.0 Electrical Component Inspection Crankshaft Position Sensor. Voltage fluctuates Between 0 – 5 Volts – PASSED
3.0 Electrical Component Inspection Check Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve – PASSED
4.0 Diagnostic Procedure Number 22 ECM Main Power Supply and Ground Circuit - PASSED
5.0 Diagnostic Procedure Number 33 Throttle Position Sensor Voltage & Continuity - PASSED
6.0 Electrical Component Inspection Throttle Position Sensor Variable Resistance - PASSED
6.1 Wide Open Throttle 2.50 0hms
6.2 Closed/Idle 11.92 0hms
7.2 Fuel Pump Pressure Test Initial @ 60 PSI - PASSED
7.2 Resting @ 40 PSI - PASSED
8.1 Fuel Injector Resistance Tests (10-15 0hms) #1 @ 12.2 0hms - PASSED
8.2 #2 @ 12.2 0hms - PASSED
8.3 #3 @ 12.2 0hms - PASSED
8.4 #4 @ 12.3 0hms- PASSED
9.1 Electrical Component Inspection Idle Air Control Valve-A.A.C. Approximate Resistance 10 0hms
9.2 Actual Resistance 10.4 0hms - PASSED
10.0 Electrical Component Inspection Idle Air Control Valve F.I.C.D.
10.1 Actuated when battery voltage applied - PASSED

CONCLUSIONS:
1. No indication of timing belt slippage or failure.
2. ECM might have failed. No known good ECM to test it with.
I'd like to have more possible solutions before spending $700.00 on another ECM. Thanks!

- END OF POST -

[Encryptshun]

Welcome to NiCO. Unfortunately, I'm not much of an expert on this stuff, but we'll try to get someone in here to help you out.

Looks like you've been very thorough in your troublshooting, and thanks for taking the time to be so thorough documenting is for the users here. You'll get much better help that way!

[RT22]

If you can isolate ECM try a junkyard much cheaper than new, get the warranty so you can take it back and swap if it is no good. I tried to follow all the checks but 3 basics compression fuel fire. Try cranking with some starter fluid if it fires and dies it is fuel, but easiest is pull a plug, hook to wire, ground to engine and check for fire, do this with each one one at a time get a buddy to help. If you have fuel and fire time for compression check.

[longtooth]

If you can isolate ECM try a junkyard much cheaper than new, get the warranty so you can take it back and swap if it is no good. I tried to follow all the checks but 3 basics compression fuel fire. Try cranking with some starter fluid if it fires and dies it is fuel, but easiest is pull a plug, hook to wire, ground to engine and check for fire, do this with each one one at a time get a buddy to help. If you have fuel and fire time for compression check.

Yep I gotta agree. A compression test is a good test too.

[qwertyz]

I also dont see and actual spark test (not by the coil, at the end of the wires) jumps 30 thousands?
for car to run you got to have :

spark (in time with the engine)
fuel
air

you got pressure on the fuel, you got right ohm on injectors but did you ever check injector pulse? (ecm command) if not auto-zone got noid lights , check it

[curt99]

I also dont see and actual spark test (not by the coil, at the end of the wires) jumps 30 thousands?
for car to run you got to have :

spark (in time with the engine)
fuel
air

you got pressure on the fuel, you got right ohm on injectors but did you ever check injector pulse? (ecm command) if not auto-zone got noid lights , check it

I checked the spark at the coil, it jumped 40K each time it fired. I also checked the injector pulse by manually feeling the indivudual injectors trigger while rotating the distributor - each injector had a strong pulse to it. I have considered removing the fuel rail to visually check that it is actually spraying fuel.

I checked the position of the distributor rotor and the TDC mark on the crank pulley against the diagram in the factory service manual and it is right where it should be - according to the picture... Since the drive on the distributor is keyed and cannot be adjusted like an early model GM HEI distributor, I figured that the timing chain is not the problem. I even moved the spark plug wires forward one position and back one position on the dist cap and advanced/retarted the dist by rotating it to see if that would without any better results. Although the engine "wants" to start when cranked, it does seem like it is out of sync somewhere...

[qwertyz]

what about spark at the end of the wires? (right b4 it goes into the spark plug)
u got distributor cap and rotor, coil fires _ goes in to distributor cap then rotor then wires then plugs maybe u got problem somewhere in the middle?


i doubt its going to be ecm.. its gonna be something simple.... its possible for distributor to be bad try with a known good one.

i am not for sure but is ur distributor rotor bolted to the distributor shaft? what about firing order? u sure u did not cross the wires?

lets back up a bit!!!!!!! how did a no start happen?

[qwertyz]

read this post maybe it will help you out

car-wont-start-93-ka24de-has-spark-gas- ... 39000.html

[curt99]

read this post maybe it will help you out

car-wont-start-93-ka24de-has-spark-gas- ... 39000.html

Yeah, it's always something simple in the end, like saying, "I Don't" instead of "I Do...."

The ignition rotor is bolted to the distributor shaft. After the crankshaft sensor passed by triggering the ignition coil, and the fuel injector circuit passed by triggering the ECM to fire the fuel injectors, I did not bother with disassembling the distributor. Inspection of the cap and rotor revealed clean sharp edges and little, if any, corrosion on the terminals inside the distributor cap and on the rotor.

This vehicle was parked for a couple of years. Owner states that it ran "fine" when it was parked and that no major repairs were attempted since. It just wasn't needed until now. I'll go back to the beginning and re-check spark at the end of each wire. I did run the ignition using a known good Jacobs Ignition Coil, without any results. I also repositioned the wires to 180 degrees opposite, without any results also. Compression test will be done also. Still on the lookout for a good ECM to test it with...

Haven't given up on it yet... More recommendations are appreciated...

[RT22]

if it sat for a long time the GAS may be bad and not able to burn right. Try cranking with starting fluid, if it fires then dies it is gas flow or bad gas.

[qwertyz]

dude buy this tool at autozone or napa or carquest and check for the spark (AT THE END OF THE WIRES) tool is like 6 bucks


set it at 30 thousands gap, will look big like 3/4 of an inch but if ur wires,cap,rotor are good and coil is good IT WILL JUMP THAT GAP (nice and blue color) stress them wires and coil out. (if it dont fire, screw it in a bit 20 thousands will be OK, 10 thousand is not good enough)

DO NOT BUY ONE WITH THE LIGHT, one with the light is worthless only thing it tell you that it fires, it dont tell you if your coil is weak

see i tried to tell other guy, he said he had spark at the end of the wires BUT IT WAS NOT STRONG ENOUGH



make sure that the plugs are DRY. if they are wet from you cranking on it IT WILL NEVER FIRE

here zone got the tool for 7.49
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... ing=search