No spark? Only sometimes...

Your premier source for information on the Turbo KA: KA24E-T and KA24DE-T (KA with aftermarket turbo kit)!
oes
Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2005 12:53 pm

Post

These are top feeds, its actually the AMS fuel system i am using.

I have not swapped plugs since ive been trying to get this thing running. I have some crappy bosch plugs in now just till I was able to get things worked out, ive got a box full of bkr7e's at my disposal though.

Which technique should I use to check each cylinder for spark?

I have not talked to Chris or Ivan, the more brains I can get working on this the better though, thanks

My main goal is to get the tune done by a pro, but if the car wont fire when needed, that makes getting it tuned a bit of a pain.

(I also need to figure out how to get my innovative lc-1 wideband to work with the AEM EMS)


User avatar
WDRacing
Moderator
Posts: 15983
Joined: Mon Nov 25, 2002 2:00 am
Car: 95 240SX, 99 BMW 540i, 01 Chevy Express, 14 Ford Escape
Location: MFFO
Contact:

Post

Well if you have a timing gun, you can use each wire to check for a spark signal. The timing will of course be off, but it will indicate spark.

I emailed Chris today and linked him to this thread.

WD

oes
Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2005 12:53 pm

Post

Well I just got back from messing with it. First try, it started right up but then RPMS dropped fast and it died. Let it sit for a moment and started it again. Fired up and stayed on. I guess this would be an ok time to mention that I cannot get the car to idle below 1200rpms

I messed with the fuel table for awhile just getting the idle around 14.7afr. Cut it off and then let it sit for a second so I could try to figure out how to setup my wideband to work with the ems.

Anyway, tried to recrank it, fired up but wouldnt stay on. Kept trying to die, i could give it throttle and it would fight to stay on but as soon as i let off it died. I was gonna check out the plugs after this so I went to pull one of plug wires out and the damn thing seperated from itself. Now I have the rubber boot that goes around the sparkplug stuck in there and the top of my wire came apart.

I give up for tonight. Taylor plug wires are garbage and ended my night short.

User avatar
WDRacing
Moderator
Posts: 15983
Joined: Mon Nov 25, 2002 2:00 am
Car: 95 240SX, 99 BMW 540i, 01 Chevy Express, 14 Ford Escape
Location: MFFO
Contact:

Post

Man...bad luck all around. Atleast you got it running a little. Did it run better with the AFR's adjusted?

WD

oes
Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2005 12:53 pm

Post

Yea, it sounded great. Only other thing thats wrong is the idle wont go below 1200rpm, no matter what I get the idle at on the EMS (EMS said it should have been idling around 800). Maybe i need to mess with the TPS or something?

Edit, also i wonder if the tuner I plan on taking the car to will be able to set the innovative wideband and ems up to work together, i think im having a bit of issues with doing it heh.

oes
Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2005 12:53 pm

Post

Got the dumb rubber thing outta the hole. Got the wideband and ems almost reading on the same page now.

Still didnt wanna fire up today. It sat for a few days and I tried it again today. Tried cranking it probably 10times over an hour or so. We clipped a wire to a known good ground and clipped the other end to the bolt holding the distrib to the head and it fired right up.

I dont know if that actually helped or if it was luck? It didn't idle long though, it died. I cranked it again and reved on it a bit just to keep it alive. It eventually kept dying though.

Not sure what the deal is, im still very lost

User avatar
klattr1
Posts: 1130
Joined: Sat Sep 28, 2002 1:18 pm
Car: GT42R powered S14/KA
Location: Charlotte, NC
Contact:

Post

are u using your IACV/AAC valve combo?

is the TPS adjusted and throttle stop as well? you should be able to confirm this prolly through your EMS by just watching the voltage with throttle closed and completely open.

is your fuel pressure at 44 psi with the vacuum hose off?

usually when cars start up like that and just die off, its usually from really retarded timing or way too much fuel.

so i would test out a few things to figure which ones causing it...like lower your fuel pressure 10 psi and see if it makes the car have more of a stable idle...and if that works, you dont have to leave your fuel pressure there, its only for diagnosing purposes only. after that, you can bump your fuel pressure back up and adjust the fueling within the correction table at those relative RPMs.

yea make sure you have plenty of grounds.

just a few ideas off the top of my head. if i lived even closer, i would just drive out and help you out.

oes
Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2005 12:53 pm

Post

IACV and AAC are still on the intake mani.

I dont think we ever messed with the TPS, it might be off which is why it wont go lower than 1200rpms at warm idle.

44psi with vacuum hose on. I thought I read somewhere it should be ~45ish psi with vacuum on. Ill take the vacuum off and drop the PSI to 44psi.

I wish you did live closer Ryan, i could really use a hand from someone that knows more about the EMS and such.

Edit: left the vacuum on and set the fuel psi to 34psi. Couldnt get it to fire though so I dunno if it helped keep it alive. Any chance I might need to upgrade my ignition system?
Modified by oes at 12:46 PM 3/3/2007

oes
Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2005 12:53 pm

Post

bump=[


Return to “KA24ET / KA24DET Forum”