No power. Thing is S-L-O-W

[truth211]

I have a 1992 240sx with a ka24de engine. I switched from a automatic to a 5-spd. Got a matching ecu for a 5-spd swap. I have tried to time it but there is no degree's or real timing marks. Also the engine acts like the opposite of a v-tech engine. It just lacks power that was there before the transmission swap and the engine swap. Any Ideas? I have tried everything I can think of and I am stumped.

[My RB25]

There are timing marks, look for it, unless for some odd reason yours are worn away, but I'd like to know how that happened if thats the case.

[truth211]

yes. There are 4 worn out marks on the crank pulley. However there are no other timing marks. There are no degree numbers to verify where the timing should be set at. I have checked the search and checked a few other forums and perhaps I am just not looking in the right place but they all have been very inconclusive. This is the second engine in the car though.

[LayNLow240]

grab yourself a FSM and read up.

[My RB25]

There should be a few more marks than four I believe. 15* is where you want it, if I'm not mistake it's the second mark from the right. It's been a few weeks since I touched my timing, but I got my UA Pulley yesterday and the timing mark on there is the second one from the right (If looking at it from the front of the car). Even if you can't see the marks you should try to do it by ear. Granted your tune-up parts are in good condition.

[truth211]

Thats very true. I have not gotten to the tune up yet. I have been busy working on my customers and trying to expand and advertise my business. Funny. I have time to work on everyone elses car but not my own. Hmmmm. Anyway. I believe at one point I had it on the 3rd mark but shifting from 2nd gear it would detonate and make a backfire sound. When it was cold I would take of and the engine would hesitate and completely lose power for about 2 or 3 seconds or until I put my for to the floor. Thats why I readjusted the timing. It does not do that not but it just lacks any balls whatsoever and with out knowing where the heck the right timing marks are I am timing blindly. I wonder if anyone has come across this problem?

[Chukidori]

Second from the far right notch is proper base timing. Theres actually a picture on KA-T.ORG that shows you how to properly set your base timing.

[My RB25]

Yea my timing is off a little, but I'm taking care of that this weekend, timing chain and pulley Then I'll set the timing the right way. She's running a little rich and I have the same problem from a cold start, at first I thought it could be my o2's (I havent replaced them yet), but if I just start up and go she'll buck like a *****. Mostly in 1st, I usually just shift to 2nd to stop it. But once she warms up she runs fine, she's only popped a few times (My exhaust and cat don't see eye to eye, so she has a small leak).

Also I believe the optimal RPM is 650 +,- 50. Seems a little low, but I believe your also suppose to unplug a sensor on the TB. I know it's in the FAQs or something.

[480sx]

15 degrees is for SOHC, 20 for DOHC.

[truth211]

so which notch is for 20 degree's then? I have it set to the 2nd from the right notch. Is that still wrong?

[My RB25]

IDK if the 240 has it, but I remember seeing a under the hood sticker on a 88 200SX i had at my shop, showed you exactly what mark to set it at. Unless your car had body work done to the hood, it's rare I see the stickers put back on by body shops.

[truth211]

Ok I set it back to the second to right mark. It got a little bit more power but it is still lagging. I hooked it up to a scanner and no codes popped up but it was running rich. Can't figure out why though. I am going to see if there is a way to test the sensors. See if one is on the blink. In the past when a car acts up like this it is usually the temperature sensor or the TPS. Any ideas? This makes NO sense. I have taken it to a few other places for some opinions (embarrassing too when you own your own shop too) and they can't figure it out either (now I don't feel so bad) LOL. If you got any ideas let me know. I am going to search out some things and see if I can find anything.

[bobob729]

throw your automatic ecu back in and see what that does i was havin problems with my manual and i have been running auto for awhile now and it has a lot better response than when i got it and from what i believe your timing would be off just a little if your are running rich but its not going to lag that much.....try what i said it might help you and no it wont hurt anything

[truth211]

Ok I will try that. I remember the old engine and auto were running well with the exception that when I would start the car in the morning and take off the car would lose power for 2 or 3 second or until I put my foot to the floor. It went away when the car warmed up though. Weird huh? I will try changing the computer ecu. I will let you know how it went later. Thanks

[skatermatt180]

check TPS!!!!! or MAFS!!!!!!!!!!

[truth211]

On the 240sx how do you check the sensors? The TPS or MAFS? My alldata usually has write ups for how to test the sensors but mine does not have that information. Is there away you know of doing it?I also pulled the timing back to 20 degrees. Someone miss informed me. 15 is for the SOHC and 20 is for the DOHC. Anyways. The car seemed to get a little faster then what it was however it still seems slower then the other engnie I had when it was an automatic. I am going to switch ECU's.

[skatermatt180]

i just did a manual conversion and i didnt have to switch ecus in my s13. that isnt your prob dont waste your time.

[skatermatt180]

Follow these instructions http://forums.nicoclub.co m/zerothread?id=161700 for the tps. The maf should be bad if you can unplug it and the engine still runs. I think you should seriously consider

[My RB25]

You own a shop? You have any scanners or a DVOM?

[truth211]

No. I have access to a Snap-on MT2500. Stone age I know but it gets the job done. I am looking into getting one of the new millennium ones I heard about. They are around $5000 to $6000. I am just a small shop for now and really don't do a whole lot of diagnostics to really justify this kind of purchase though. I have knowledge in troubleshooting that I have learned and been taught through the years from some of the most highly respect mechanics in the industry. Funny though they live near me. I feel like I live next to movie stars. LOL. anyway, I swapped out the ecu and there was yet even a little bit more power added. Almost there. I took the MAF connector out and the car just stopped. Wouldn't run correctly while it was disconnected so thats ok. I am going to check the TPS tomorrow. Thanks for the sticky link. The values are a big help. Maybe I will have some more blessing then. Just have to find the time.
Modified by truth211 at 4:59 PM 6/28/2007

[skatermatt180]

no problem always wanting to help out another 240 owner. I know what its like, im going through some hard times with mine as well.

[truth211]

Thanks. I will get back to you later on. I will try and mess with the car later on. I am doing a yard sale today and theres alot to do. I will keep you posted.

[My RB25]

Im assuming that scanner was before my time lol A simple DVOM you can backprobe the MAF and TP sensor. I can get the specs and what wires to probe off my shop's Snap-On Vantage (Great scanner) to see what the voltage should be. BTW a car won't run w/o a MAF.

The newer Snap-On scanners are very expensive, especially if your looking at the Modis. Your looking over about 5-6g depending on what updates, add-ons or trade ins you do. My Snap-On dealer has been trying to get my boss to trade in our two old scanners for it, and he still wants like 4g. I used the Modis once, though, VERY nice scanner. But yea when I get back to work (on lunch right now) I'll look up the specs and wires for a 92 240 MAF and TPS. Hopefully push you in the right direction.

[480sx]

Make sure your dizzy timing is right. Here, use this ---> http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=161707

[truth211]

RATS!!!! Still no good. Everything seems to be in order with the car. I have timed it, re-timed it and then timed it some more. Still lacks power. I have fiddled with the TPS and the MAFS. I have pulled plugs and put new ones in. I have messed with all the ground wires to make sure it has good ground. I have checked the cap and rotor. All fine there. Now as I drive it seems to back fire like the timing is off. But it is unburned fuel. You know when you gut your cat out (like mine is) and it makes a pop sound from unburned fuel igniting in the exhaust pipe...well thats what it is doing. It loses a noticeable amount of power after it warms up. A little bit it normal, but not this much. Now driving it wont get out of its own way. I almost got my butt kicked by a Saturn-BIG PROBLEM! The car has a difficult time getting up to 130MPH like it used to when it was an auto. In my 11 years of being a mechanic this freaking car has me and some local shops stumped. I am willing to take any suggestions at this time.

[skatermatt180]

how many miles? Could be a compression issue...do the 3 checks like normal...fuel air and compression. Check the fuel pump, if its stock...they tend to go out. ECU might be bad. Start simple and work your way like normal. Things I would check would be pump, compression (rings might be shot...sounds like this might be it because of the heating up thing, in my opinion) ECU ... air filter thats obvious lol. Let me know...

[truth211]

Ok did all checking and it all seems to be ok. I swapped ecu's but still an issue. I have not checked the compression yet. I do notice now that I bumped the timing back to where it should be, that when it has been sitting over night and start it up the next morning when I take off if I am gentle roughly in third gear around 1800-2000 rpm's the car will almost stall out and lose tremendous power. If I kick up the rpm's it comes back. Does this for only a few minutes. After that it goes away but then goes back to the original problem of lacking power.

[My RB25]

Have you ever done anything with your timing chain? Could it be off a tooth or maybe a previous owner mistake? Check to see if the cam is timed up, take off the valve cover and Im not sure on the DE's but please some one correct me if I'm wrong the two lobes on the #1 cyl should face away from each other, pointing towards the fenders (TDC). I have a KAE so I can't give you much else help on that.

Could also be a CKP (Crank Position Sensor) or CMP (Cam Position Sensor), I know the VW's 1.8 and 2.0's CKP's are notorious for going bad. Once the car warms up it stalls, worst case. Other times it'll run, but like ****. Just a thought, at this point lol....

[truth211]

I believe it is something electrical. The car seems to hit a spot and then POW! a lot of power comes from nowhere. but then craps out again. I am going to try and replace the TPS. If it is sending a bad signal to the computer then that might be why it is running rich and back firing unburned fuel between shifts. Ill keep you posted.

[truth211]

I believe it is something electrical. The car seems to hit a spot and then POW! a lot of power comes from nowhere. but then craps out again. I am going to try and replace the TPS. If it is sending a bad signal to the computer then that might be why it is running rich and back firing unburned fuel between shifts. Ill keep you posted.