No communication with ECM.. **PLEASE READ/SEND HELP**

[PRATEHGEE]

Code: Select all

Hey guys,

I just picked up a 2001 Pathfinder 2WD (3.5L) and am having huge issues already and I’m hoping somebody can point me in the right direction before I start throwing money/time at this rig.. I’ll split my story into parts..

PART 1
I previously owned a 93 Pathfinder (my favorite car ever) and I’m familiar with wrenching on cars. However, I’m at a loss for words with this recent one. Let me begin by saying, this Pathfinder sat for a couple years and comes with some baggage. The OEM key that came with the vehicle is missing it’s transponder so I can it turn over the car as of now. BUT, I did just buy the Nissan Data scan 2 and new transponder Keys in order to avoid the costly fees of a locksmith/dealer..

PART 2
And now here is my problem... After buying a new battery, I hooked up my scanner and found no codes (as expected). So, I started doing my research and found that the IACV in these vehicles tend to short out the ECM so I check both. The IACV was leaking so I knew it needed replacing so I ordered a new one and at the same time I cleaned out the throttle body. Next stop, check the ECM. I pulled it and found no signs of shorts/burnt parts. Good. Next, I replaced the spark plugs all gapped to .044, cleaned the MAF, and got the car ready for my new IACV..

PART 3 (Good Part)
Thursday morning comes and I receive a knock at my door. It’s my VAG-KKL connector and new transponder keys that I ordered with this Nissan Data Scan 2! I run outside, plug my battery back into the rig and attempt to attach my VAG-KKL/computer to the OBD2 port of the car... The power light comes on the VAG-KKL, my computer is acknowledging the adapter, and everything seems to be working fine when all of a sudden... NO COMMS.... In disbelief, I try and reconnect.... NO COMMS.. This can’t be. Did I get a faulty cable? I reach out to obdinnovations (website where I bought the NSD2) and mess with it for no kidding 6-7 hours. No dice. And then finally a light comes on in my head. Try the scanner and pull codes! Of course. So, I plug up the scanner, power light comes on and... NO COMMS (no communication)... No. the code scanner that previously worked was no longer connecting. What did I do? So, I pull out my multimeter and check all the pins on the OBD2/DLC.. Pin 16 reads 12v-12.4v, pin 4 & 5 resistance is 0.4-0.7... and pin 7 (k-line) 0v.... Now as far as I understand, the k-line is the data link to the ECM and there should be about 3.5v there and would signify data transfer.. So I check all of the fuses in the car and check my ECM again and found no burnt/shorted components.

CONCLUSION
I’m really at a loss for words here. I love Pathfinders so much and working on them makes it even better but I can’t tackle this problem alone. So I humbly ask the forums to help me in diagnosing and fixing the new to me pathfinder.... New ECU? Short in wiring? Please give me your thoughts. Thanks!!!

[PRATEHGEE]

There is also no CEL or SES light upon turning key to on which leads me to believe something isn’t getting power. Anybody?

[04pathse]

There is also no CEL or SES light upon turning key to on which leads me to believe something isn’t getting power. Anybody?

well, all I have is the obligatory question "did you check all the fuses?"

[PRATEHGEE]

04pathse - Good question. Yes, the fuses have been gone over thoroughly. However, I’m still not convinced the ECM is getting power.. do you know how to check?

[Rockwood]

Here is a Nissan tech walking a guy thru the IACV / ECM problem. It should get you going.
https://www.justanswer.com/nissan-infin ... olled.html

It does sound like a power problem. Check all the fuses in the fuse block under the hood - that is where the ECCS1 and ECCS2 fuses are. I would unplug your IACV just to be sure it is not shorted somehow.

The ECM relay is the same as the headlight relays I think - so you can swap that out if necessary.

That thread I pointed you to does not say 2001, so verify what he is having you check against your 2001 EL FSM.

The security light on the left of the dash should be blinking in key off position, then go off when you turn the key to the on position. Solid red light means you have a problem with the SES.

[PRATEHGEE]

Here is a Nissan tech walking a guy thru the IACV / ECM problem. It should get you going.
https://www.justanswer.com/nissan-infin ... olled.html

It does sound like a power problem. Check all the fuses in the fuse block under the hood - that is where the ECCS1 and ECCS2 fuses are. I would unplug your IACV just to be sure it is not shorted somehow.

The ECM relay is the same as the headlight relays I think - so you can swap that out if necessary.

That thread I pointed you to does not say 2001, so verify what he is having you check against your 2001 EL FSM.

The security light on the left of the dash should be blinking in key off position, then go off when you turn the key to the on position. Solid red light means you have a problem with the SES.

Rockwood- I had no idea the headlight relay/fuse was also shared between the ECM... I will check that out along with the ECCS1/ECCS2. Also, it seems like I do have an issue with the SES, because the security light stays solid in the on position.. Could that be a symptom of turning the ignition with a non-linked key to the immobilizer/NATS? Thank you for the input!! Keep it coming guys

[macgiver]

mac ,I beleive Rockwood is stating that the same "TYPE" relay is used for both ECM & headlights , NOT that they "share , nor part of the SAME "power feed" - big difference between those scenarios . And Rockwood seems to be suggesting an easy swap to test the ECM relay socket position with the Hdlmp relay - a PARTSWAP! But maybe you got that , wouldn't want to see you fry anything ,ECM?

[PRATEHGEE]

mac ,I beleive Rockwood is stating that the same "TYPE" relay is used for both ECM & headlights , NOT that they "share , nor part of the SAME "power feed" - big difference between those scenarios . And Rockwood seems to be suggesting an easy swap to test the ECM relay with the Hdlmp relay - a PARTSWAP! But maybe you got that , wouldn't want to see you fry anything ,ECM?

Macgiver - Ahh, that makes a lot more sense than what I had in mind.. Does anybody happen to know what the ECM fuse/relay is named in the fuse box? Or anything related to powering the ECM. I’m chasing my tail on this

[Rockwood]

Quote:
"Also, it seems like I do have an issue with the SES, because the security light stays solid in the on position.. Could that be a symptom of turning the ignition with a non-linked key to the immobilizer/NATS?"

To answer your question about using an unregistered key, read up on code P1610 here:
https://www.autocodes.com/p1610_nissan.html
So, use a non-registered key five times and you will get locked out (solid red light). It takes a registered key to reset the SES light according to that link. I realize you have not actually been able to scan a code P1610, but I think that is what is happening.

If I understand correctly, you do not have a key programmed for the car. The only thing I can suggest is disconnecting the battery for awhile and hope things reset. Maybe someone else will have a better idea.

As to the fuses, go to the first link I posted, and you will see an image of the underhood fusebox there. It is titled "Fuse and Fusible Link Box". You need to check fuses 51, 52, 62, and 63. If you are not quite sure which ones they are, then just check em all. If fuses are good, and the relay is good, you should be getting power to the ECM.

I probably will be out the rest of the weekend, so I hope that is enough to get you going!

[PRATEHGEE]

Quote:
"Also, it seems like I do have an issue with the SES, because the security light stays solid in the on position.. Could that be a symptom of turning the ignition with a non-linked key to the immobilizer/NATS?"

To answer your question about using an unregistered key, read up on code P1610 here:
https://www.autocodes.com/p1610_nissan.html
So, use a non-registered key five times and you will get locked out (solid red light). It takes a registered key to reset the SES light according to that link. I realize you have not actually been able to scan a code P1610, but I think that is what is happening.

If I understand correctly, you do not have a key programmed for the car. The only thing I can suggest is disconnecting the battery for awhile and hope things reset. Maybe someone else will have a better idea.

As to the fuses, go to the first link I posted, and you will see an image of the underhood fusebox there. It is titled "Fuse and Fusible Link Box". You need to check fuses 51, 52, 62, and 63. If you are not quite sure which ones they are, then just check em all. If fuses are good, and the relay is good, you should be getting power to the ECM.

I probably will be out the rest of the weekend, so I hope that is enough to get you going!

Rockwood - This is all awesome information, especially the link you posted. It’s way more than I’ve been able to gather myself. I will check everything out using the linked info to verify power to the ECM when I get home.. Hopefully it’s a short, but that would be too easy. However, as good as the link is, I am still confused as to which relay is the ECM relay... IIRC my trunk fuse box reads in this order, EGI... N/P... Fuel pump 2... Way different than the diagram. Also I noted that my positive battery terminal connector has 2 “fuse” like connectors attached to the positive terminal.. Could this also be interconnected to the ECM and related system? If anybody could clarify with pictures or just more awesome advice I would really appreciate your time.. One more thing, would being “locked out” by using an invalid key lock me out of communicating with the ECM?? Thanks again, have a good weekend.

[macgiver]

mac, again you guys seem to be really tracking down good leads , but I took one LAST look and just noticed that PRATEHGEE - you are still "Looking for THE ECM relay" and as I recall , or I beleive - NO ECM uses a relay and I remenber it started when someone questioned IF the ECM was "getting power" , then someone else said to check it's (dedicated ?? ) relay ? Here's the deal - ECM has an "always-on " power lead for memory "set" , and gets ALL it's regular power , I believe, upon Ign. -ON , or of course in -Start(cranking) positions . As an electrician I see that it's rather foolish for mfr's to have relays turning-on ECM ; Now to CONTROL or OUTPUT
some power FROM the ECM of course may have a relay OUT to some system / or device (ECM has internal power MOSFETS for those actions ,w/relay handling even more Amps! )Fuses yes, find them, of course I could be ENTIRELY WRONG in your specific case GT 3/31/2018

[PRATEHGEE]

mac, again you guys seem to be really tracking down good leads , but I took one LAST look and just noticed that PRATEHGEE - you are still "Looking for THE ECM relay" and as I recall , or I beleive - NO ECM uses a relay and I remenber it started when someone questioned IF the ECM was "getting power" , then someone else said to check it's (dedicated ?? ) relay ? Here's the deal - ECM has an "always-on " power lead for memory "set" , and gets ALL it's regular power , I believe, upon Ign. -ON , or of course in -Start(cranking) positions . As an electrician I see that it's rather foolish for mfr's to have relays turning-on ECM ; Now to CONTROL or OUTPUT
some power FROM the ECM of course may have a relay OUT to some system / or device (ECM has internal power MOSFETS for those actions ,w/relay handling even more Amps! )Fuses yes, find them, of course I could be ENTIRELY WRONG in your specific case GT 3/31/2018

Macgiver - You make a very valid point about the ECU having a relay. It would need some constant source of power to keep the memory intact.. I plan on checking everything out in the coming days but I am very open to more ideas & thoughts about my Pathfinder woes.. Also going off of the link that was sent by Rockwood would any of those failed fuses/relays/components cause me to not be able to communicate with the ECM via the DLC/OBD2 port?? Thank you again.

[PRATEHGEE]

So guys, after searching through the FSM, I’ve found that my 01 Pathy does indeed include an ECM relay EL- 372 ... and I was also able to find the engine control harness EL - 382-383, or from what I understand, the wiring and components connected to the the ECM... I still haven’t been able to diagnose my problem through fuses but if somebody had more suggestions I am more that open to them! I’ll include the link to the FSM and again thank you to everybody trying to help me get my rig on the road where it belongs

http://www.misio.com/pathfinder%20code% ... Manual.pdf

[amc49]

Uh, there are commonly used ECM relays. The computer will have direct power as well for keep alive memory but commonly a main power supplying relay often called an ignition or power hold relay supplies much of the ECM power to things that are only on with engine operation like VREFs to various devices. That main ECM relay is also commonly used to kick all the other relays up and awake (fuel pumps, fans, etc.) with key on for engine operation. So not just an ECM relay only but likely an overall power supply one. Using ignition switch lead alone there with no relay would need too much big gauge wire which costs $$$$$$$$.

[PRATEHGEE]

Uh, there are commonly used ECM relays. The computer will have direct power as well for keep alive memory but commonly a main power supplying relay often called an ignition or power hold relay supplies much of the ECM power to things that are only on with engine operation like VREFs to various devices. That main ECM relay is also commonly used to kick all the other relays up and awake (fuel pumps, fans, etc.) with key on for engine operation. So not just an ECM relay only but likely an overall power supply one. Using ignition switch lead alone there with no relay would need too much big gauge wire which costs $$$$$$$$.

amc49 - After reading your post, it seems more more unlikely that it would be a power problem to the ECM. Rather, it sounds like I have an issue with some component in the system that is preventing communication between scanners and the ECM.. Question: Would a faulty sensor like a TPS cause a no communication from the ECM? Or am I looking at a completely different beast here? Any insight is greatly appreciated.

[PRATEHGEE]

Also if something (let’s say ignition coils, O2 sensors, or IACV) in the system are not plugged in would that cause a no communication? Still chasing my tail here. But I am going to let the ECM discharge for a couple days and hopefully it is an security system issue that is preventing COMMS to the ECM because of my non-linked key..

[PRATEHGEE]

QUICK UPDATE: Still at a stand still with figuring out my problem. I did read the FSM section on the ECM and I tested the actual wiring harness for power. I found that it is indeed getting power. HOWEVER, according to the FSM there are 4 spots where the ECM gets power with the key in off position (pins 12 & 67) but NO power when the key is in an on position (pins 110 & 112). And more bad news is there is no power to the MIL (pin 38) AND the data link connector/DLC (pin 115). With this information, how does the good people of the forum recommend I proceed? I’m open to all suggestions/advice. I really wanna get this thing running..

ALSO: I noticed that when I plug the battery terminals back up to try and pull codes again, there is a BUZZING noise coming from the engine bay. However, when I disconnect the gray switch on my throttle position sensor it stops.. After finding this I tried to connect to the DLC with it disconnected and still no dice. Could this be relevant? Thank you all again, Happy Easter.

[Rockwood]

Maybe the best thing is to do one circuit first. Lets do the MIL circuit since you said pin 38 on the ECM connector is dead. But first some overview stuff:

First, if you are having power problems, every circuit in the truck starts at the underhood fuse box. There is either a fuse or a fusible link in the underhood fuse box for each power circuit. Many of those power circuits split into several smaller circuits after they exit the underhood fuse box. Power circuit diagams begin at EL-11.

Individual circuit diagrams are scattered throughout the FSM, depending on what you are checking. The MIL circuit diagram is on EC-646.

In the FSM, look down the index on the left side of the page, and find "fuse block junction box". That diagram shows fuse numbers and correct fuse amperages for each fuse in the dash. "Fuse and fusible link box" shows fuse numbers and fusible link letters for the fuse box under the hood.

Okay, on to testing. So we have two possibilities: power to the circuit, or a dead circuit (no power).

EC-646 says with the ignition key in the on position, fuse 8 gets power. It will not get power with key off. So, pull fuse 8 and check for voltage at the fuse socket with the key in "on". If you have 12 volts, then the problem is somewhere between the fuse and the ECM. Could be a bad bulb, or it could be a burned wire. So you will have to track from the fuse socket to the bulb, then on to the ECM connector pin 38 to find the problem.

If you have NO power at fuse 8 in key on, then you need to check the power circuit. This circuit is switched on by the ignition switch, so go to EL-15, and you will see the power diagram for the relevant part of the ignition switch circuit. Find fuse 8, and you will see it powers 18 different items (they are listed below the fuse), with EC-MIL/DL as one of them.

The diagram shows that the ignition switch is protected by 40 Amp fusible link "e", and the ignition relay, which actually powers fuse 8, is protected by 80 Amp fusible link "i". (Fuses are numbered, fusible links have letters) So, check for power to both, and if necessary, figure out why the ignition relay is not turning on.

So see if you can fix power to ECM pin 38, and we can go from there.

[PRATEHGEE]

Maybe the best thing is to do one circuit first. Lets do the MIL circuit since you said pin 38 on the ECM connector is dead. But first some overview stuff:

First, if you are having power problems, every circuit in the truck starts at the underhood fuse box. There is either a fuse or a fusible link in the underhood fuse box for each power circuit. Many of those power circuits split into several smaller circuits after they exit the underhood fuse box. Power circuit diagams begin at EL-11.

Individual circuit diagrams are scattered throughout the FSM, depending on what you are checking. The MIL circuit diagram is on EC-646.

In the FSM, look down the index on the left side of the page, and find "fuse block junction box". That diagram shows fuse numbers and correct fuse amperages for each fuse in the dash. "Fuse and fusible link box" shows fuse numbers and fusible link letters for the fuse box under the hood.

Okay, on to testing. So we have two possibilities: power to the circuit, or a dead circuit (no power).

EC-646 says with the ignition key in the on position, fuse 8 gets power. It will not get power with key off. So, pull fuse 8 and check for voltage at the fuse socket with the key in "on". If you have 12 volts, then the problem is somewhere between the fuse and the ECM. Could be a bad bulb, or it could be a burned wire. So you will have to track from the fuse socket to the bulb, then on to the ECM connector pin 38 to find the problem.

If you have NO power at fuse 8 in key on, then you need to check the power circuit. This circuit is switched on by the ignition switch, so go to EL-15, and you will see the power diagram for the relevant part of the ignition switch circuit. Find fuse 8, and you will see it powers 18 different items (they are listed below the fuse), with EC-MIL/DL as one of them.

The diagram shows that the ignition switch is protected by 40 Amp fusible link "e", and the ignition relay, which actually powers fuse 8, is protected by 80 Amp fusible link "i". (Fuses are numbered, fusible links have letters) So, check for power to both, and if necessary, figure out why the ignition relay is not turning on.

So see if you can fix power to ECM pin 38, and we can go from there.

Rockwood - First of all, I have to thank you for dechipering that FSM for me. It makes much more sense when you put it like you did. I will follow your steps in the morning and report back. On another note, is it possible for a faulty ignition switch to cause the no power symptoms to the pins I described in my earlier post? Just a thought I’ve been mulling over.. Thanks guys and keep the suggestions coming!

[PRATEHGEE]

UPDATE: This is bizarre. I’m received power to fuse 8 so I traced the wire from the fuse box to the instrument panel using the FSM and found power. So I then traced the wire (orange I believe) from the cluster to pin 38 (MIL) on the ECM and found power. Just for s*** and giggles, I tested the DLC pin 115 and found power! However, I did not find power at pins 110,112 (KEY ON power). So I tried to re scan and still no connection. I’m sure there is something I am missing but I am even more in the dark as of this morning. Please advise on the next steps I should take and as always thanks guys.

[PRATEHGEE]

Also even with power to the MIL. There is still no light. I checked the bulb and circuit board to find no burning or corrosion...

[Rockwood]

The ECM actually grounds pin 38 internally to turn on the light. So it looks like that circuit is ok. It may mean you have some ECM damage (because you are getting no light), but it is still too early to say for sure.

I will have to find the circuit diagram in the FSM for the other pins you are looking at. So that will be this evening before I have time to take a look.

Finding voltage at pin 115 is good! Look at EC-646 and check all three datalink connections from the ECM to the Datalink connector for 0 ohms resistance ( ECM connector needs to be disconnected from ECM). See if all three wires to the ECM are good.

Back in a few hours.

[PRATEHGEE]

Rockwood - No engine light with power would make sense that there could be some damage.. How would one go about dealing with a damaged ECM if they own the Nissan Datascan 2? Is it plug and play, sync keys to new ECM, or will the NATS need to be paired also? And I will check the Ohms of those wires shortly. If I’m not mistaken, the FSM states that pin 7, 11, and 1 are DLC wires? Thank you again.

[PRATEHGEE]

QUICK UPDATE - After testing all 3 wires from the DLC to the ECM harness, I found 0 Ohms on all of them. So to me it seems that there is a clear line of communication for the ECM? I’m still lost on why it would not talk back..

[Rockwood]

Ok, lets finish up on the DLC circuits and ECM power connections since we are in it this far.

Per EC-646 check pin 16 of the datalink connector for 12 volts with key on. Also check pin 8 for 12 volts - it is hot at all times. If those are ok, it looks like the data link wiring and MIL wiring are ok.

To check ECM power -page EC-137. Check pin 43 for 12 volts with the ignition switch in "on". Pins 12, 26, and 67 are fused thru fuses 62/63, and should be battery voltage (hot) at all times. The ECM will ground pin 26 internally to turn on the ECM relay - this will happen in key on only. So pins 110 and 112 will show 12 volts only when the key is in the on position. Key off, and pins 110 and 112 will be 0 volts. If those check out, the ECM is correctly getting power.

So, after you do those checks, connect everything back up and plug in your code scanner to the datalink port. Do this in KEY OFF only. Then (since you saw voltage on pin 115 earlier) turn the key to "on" and see if you can scan the ECM for codes. It should talk to the scanner.

If you get lucky and can see codes, write them down and clear them all. Don't plug in your new Datascan 2 as it may damage things. If you have codes P1610, P1620 or other P1600 series codes, and you clear those, the red NATS light should go back to blinking when you turn the key to "on".

If you cannot see the ECM with the scanner, I think that means a bad ECM. I don't think NATS ever interferes with being able to scan the ECM for codes, so if the MIL light is not working and the code scanner cannot see the ECM, I would say somehow the new Datascan 2 you bought shorted something and damaged the ECM.

[PRATEHGEE]

Ok, lets finish up on the DLC circuits and ECM power connections since we are in it this far.

Per EC-646 check pin 16 of the datalink connector for 12 volts with key on. Also check pin 8 for 12 volts - it is hot at all times. If those are ok, it looks like the data link wiring and MIL wiring are ok.

To check ECM power -page EC-137. Check pin 43 for 12 volts with the ignition switch in "on". Pins 12, 26, and 67 are fused thru fuses 62/63, and should be battery voltage (hot) at all times. The ECM will ground pin 26 internally to turn on the ECM relay - this will happen in key on only. So pins 110 and 112 will show 12 volts only when the key is in the on position. Key off, and pins 110 and 112 will be 0 volts. If those check out, the ECM is correctly getting power.

So, after you do those checks, connect everything back up and plug in your code scanner to the datalink port. Do this in KEY OFF only. Then (since you saw voltage on pin 115 earlier) turn the key to "on" and see if you can scan the ECM for codes. It should talk to the scanner.

If you get lucky and can see codes, write them down and clear them all. Don't plug in your new Datascan 2 as it may damage things. If you have codes P1610, P1620 or other P1600 series codes, and you clear those, the red NATS light should go back to blinking when you turn the key to "on".

If you cannot see the ECM with the scanner, I think that means a bad ECM. I don't think NATS ever interferes with being able to scan the ECM for codes, so if the MIL light is not working and the code scanner cannot see the ECM, I would say somehow the new Datascan 2 you bought shorted something and damaged the ECM.

Rockwood - This was very extensive stuff you looked into on my behalf. Thank you again man. I'm in class right now but I will get to testing them tomorrow AM/PM. I am curious though, if the 2 pins 110/112 are still not receiving power after testing could that be a problem with my ECM relay not engaging? If that is the case would you say that possibly a fuseable link/wiring to the ECM relay could be faulty? I'm hoping this will be the end of all testing that way I can order a new ECM or whatever I need.

Speaking of that, lets say it turns out to be a bad ECM. What is the protocol for replacing them? I'm looking on Ebay and I see a match (not sure what to look for actually) "3L MEC341" that comes with programmed key, immobilizer, and ignition. Is it as easy as replacing my current parts or do they need programing?

Also, has anybody here ever known VAG COM cables to blow ECMs? I'm pretty pissed that it stopped reading codes after using the cable but I could caulk it up to 170k on the ECM..

[Rockwood]

I appreciate the thanks! This did turn into a bit of a deep dive.

Pins 110/112: These pins rely on fuses 62 and 63 which you checked previously. So not fuses. Could be the relay, so you can swap the ECM relay for another relay as suggested previously to check that. Bad / burnt wires are a possibility, but you have not found any yet, so that is unlikely. ECM could fail to ground pin 26 internally, so the relay will not engage. That is possible because you seem to have a problem with the MIL lamp not being turned on by the ECM already.

I am hoping by disconnecting the ECM from power doing this testing it will clear whatever happened, and when re-powered it will be ok. That does sometimes happen.

I don't know if anyone here uses the VAG. But if things start working again, I would check and make sure you got the correct cable shipped to you, and then probably exchange it anyway just to be safe. Oh, and always connect up the cable with key off. NATS codes are at EL-356 and 357 if you need them.

If you look on Ebay for "nissan nats bypass" you will find some software which reads a code from the Body Control Module, and then calculates a PIN number, which is used to program the ignition key, IMMU, and ECM. Apparently, you must use that specific PIN. If your ECM starts communicating again, I am guessing that your Datascan would do that to create an ignition key that works. The Datascan manual probably talks about that somewhere.

You can just replace the ECM, and then program a new key, which will also program the IMMU and ECM to the key. If you don't want to program a key, you must replace all three - key, IMMU, and ECM. It is more work to replace the key /IMMU / ECM because you must replace the whole ignition switch. If the ECM starts talking again, I would try the Datascan key programming before you buy a new ECM (with a new cable of course). If I understand correctly, the Datascan is capable of that, right?

So I guess we will see if you get lucky tomorrow!

[PRATEHGEE]

UPDATE: Well, after testing all possible power to the ECU, it looks like it is getting the correct amount of juice. I really believe now that the ECM was shorted either by my mishandling somehow, the VAG KKL Cable, or my ELM327 wireless scanner. I have more trick up my sleeve and that is to head out to harbor freight, buy a traditional scanner, and test. If that failed then it looks like my ECM is toast.. On a brighter note, I have found a replacement but am hesistant to buy before I get the sage advice of the forum. It includes ECM, Immu, key, and ignition. However, I’m scared to use the VAG COM cable on any new ECM for fear of lightly fried ECM filets.. so I think this is the best option. My ECM info is “3L MEC14-341 A1 1403”. If Anybody could see if this is a direct replacement I’ll be in your debt. I’ll link it here: https://www.ebay.com/p/Nissan-Pathfinde ... 1839495622

Also I will keep updating my progress and again I want to thank everybody for helping me get this far in diagnosis. And Rockwood you rock bro, I owe you a beer if you ever come out the the Palm Springs area.

[PRATEHGEE]

UPDATE: HOLY s***! The new scanner connected and I got a P1610 code “Immobilizer Lock mode”. Please advise!!!

[PRATEHGEE]

Also P1615 Immobilizer Key Code Error