Nico I'm asking for your help. I cant figure out whats wrong with my SR.

[kornmanz]

Nico I'm asking for your help! I've had so many mixed responses from other boards, friends over the phone, and my own ideas. I cant afford taking it to a shop right now so I parked the car and I'm trying to fix it on my own. So here's where you guys can help me. Please? lol.

Ok so an explanation of the problem:

While driving under full throttle I get a backfiring noise and the car basically stutters while trying to move forward. This backfiring noise repeats through all the gears. Only under full throttle. If I stay in like 20 percent throttle and just use the gears to accelerate it doesnt backfire. Also when this backfiring or spitting noise comes my turbo is very loud. Kinda like a clicking sound. If I can even use that word to describe it.

I tried getting a video so you can have a hearing reference but lol my car decided to run good during this video so I only caught that backfiring noise while at the end of the gears when normally its all throughout the gears.

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=lzlcoGMfUz8

Thanks for any help. So many ppl saying its different things I'm getting confused. So I came here. I dont have the money to be buying all these parts and that not fix it. I gotta diagnose whats up and drop the bills to fix that one problem.

[Dattebayo]

That's going to be a problem with your coilpacks or the igniter. Also, maybe the plugs are blown out? Probably not, but might want to check as it seems to be only in the high rpms.

[kornmanz]

I've checked the plugs, sometimes they're real black. Running rich? I wouldnt know how to check.

And yeah, that still wouldnt make up for the fact that when I wasnt having this problem I couldnt make more than stock boost levels. Something is wrong with either the turbo, the actuator, or I have a HUGE boost leak. Which wouldnt make sense on the boost leak problem.

[Dattebayo]

Well maybe the turbo is getting loud because the fins of the compressor are hitting the sides. Have you actually taken any of this stuff apart and inspected it? Have you tested any of the coilpacks or is this just another speculation thread?

Checking plugs is easy. If they are black, replace them. If you don't have a gapper, then you should go get one.

[kornmanz]

I've replaced them. Twice, every time after they're at least gray/black.

I dont know how to just unbolt a turbo. If its seriously just bolts let me know. I'll pull this thing apart right now. I dont have a whole like 15 drawer tool case full of tools for nothing. I really want to fix this dude. Please dont hate on me cuz I've had a lot of speculation threads. Lol I fully understand those other threads.

This is not one of those threads. I will go pull apart that turbo right now and post pics/vids w/e u guys need to help me determine whats going on.

I dont have to drive this car anymore, so I can actually just pull it apart.

[Dattebayo]

Well, I can say most likely it is not the turbo, so lets not go there quite yet...

Exactly what color are the plugs? DO they look burnt or are they gunky?

[Dattebayo]

You know what, my buddy right here says you probably just need to upgrade/replace your fuel pump and your FPR. He says it sounds like a carbon copy of what happened to him with his SR.

[kornmanz]

I'll get you some pics. One sec.

As well as yes, the description of the turbo fans hitting the turbo housing as describing that noise fits. It fits so very well.

[Chris28]

I say before tearing into your turbo, you invest in a new pump and fpr as dattebayo suggested. Also, what psi are you hitting when the turbo starts making noise?

[kornmanz]

6 lol.

I do have a new fpr. Its like brand new. Its a tsunami one. Forget the specific model.

And even if it was the fpr, it wouldnt make any sense that my fpr is preventing me from making above stock boost and it being consistent.

[Dattebayo]

Check your fuel pressure at WOT to see if it's the pump. You might have to run the car for a while to reproduce the symptoms. If the plugs look burned also, then most likely you've found the problem, running lean b/c of the fuel pump. Sometimes a clogged fuel filter can cause similar problems with fuel flow. Just keep that in mind.

If the plugs are gunky, I would check the plug gaps, then check the coilpacks and igniter chip, then I would check the injectors and wiring for everything.

[kornmanz]

WOT?

Please dont use acronyms. I most likely have never heard of them. I am smart with vehicles only on the basis of mechanics. I have to learn how something works and what it does in order to understand the setup as a whole.

[goldfish]

WOT?

Please dont use acronyms. I most likely have never heard of them. I am smart with vehicles only on the basis of mechanics. I have to learn how something works and what it does in order to understand the setup as a whole.

Wide open throttle

Does your fuel pump seem to prime for longer than usual when you first flick the key to the on position? Hard to start the car? Fuel pumps can fail in different areas of their operation it seems... In my last car (2005 mazda3) the pump made it really hard to start the car, but drove fine; well as far as I could tell... A friend's primed for extended periods of time... Just throwing those out there incase that helps you.

[TurboZenki]

I had a similar problem with my S14 SR where every time i hit about 5 pounds of boost under wide open throttle the car started to sputter and back fire. For me the problem lied in the colder range NGK plugs i had installed. After switching back to NGK BKR7E-11 the car ran perfect.

Maybe this will help you

[Rudelude22]

Have you checked the ECU for any codes? IF its OBDI just turn the screw and count the light blinks on the ECU. But definately sounds like an ignition or fuel problem. Have you checked your timing? Anything done to the motor as far as cams or anything.

[kornmanz]

I believe there is 262 duration cams. As for spark plugs I did change them. I forget which they are but they def arent ngk 11's. I think they're like 7's or 6's. Thats what was in there to begin with.

And yeah when the engine is first fired up it almost dies and then comes back. But its done that since I bought it and when I first got it it didnt backfire.

[Dattebayo]

SO where's that pic of the plugs? You never finished answering that question...

[kornmanz]

I passed out man lol. Brb

[kornmanz]

Thats cylinder 4.

[1sikS13]

this may not help you. but i have a stock ka, and there was a period of time that when i would get on it AKA WOT it would sputter and backfire bad similar to that. Come to find out that the factory ground that was going from my head to my firewall was freyed and bad and only had liuke one strand of wire holding it together....Again this is my experience with a KA non turbo. I doubtthis will help you but again its simple and cheap to fix if it really is the problem. GL with the fix man.

[kornmanz]

The ring around the spark plug is black but the tip is greyish. Just to try n help describe the plug.

[Dattebayo]

Looks normal to me. How about you go and check all that stuff we mentioned before?

[pauliedrft]

What fuel filter are you running , are you running a wide band air to fuel ratio gauge if so when you hit wide open throttle what are your air to fuel numbers ? This may help pin point the problem a little closer ... And are you running a 255lpf fuel pump ? (just trying to gt a better idea of what he has )

[kornmanz]

Aeromotive tsunami fuel pumpAeromotive 100 micron inline fuel filterAeromotive fpr w/ gauge.

Thats whats on the receipts and obviously I can see the filter and fpr from inside the engine bay.

Should I take out the fuel pump to check it? I need to replace a gaskget anyway. When I have a full tank of gas the whole cabin smells like gas.

[Dattebayo]

No, what you should check is the fuel pressure at the FPR. That will determine if you have a pressure problem, and then you can decide if it the FPR is set incorrectly or if the fuel pump is burning out. Lets take this one step at a time, ok?

[Dattebayo]

Would that account for me not being able to make boost? My fuel delivery system?

And as for the turbo I'll be taking it apart tonight so that thread is gonna be massively updated.

Don't do the turbo just yet man!

Yes, if the igniter chip wiring is frayed, that could cause your problem! If the spark isn't strong enough at the spark plug in high boost, then it can actually blow out by the pressure in the cylinder.

[kornmanz]

I will man sorry I just dont know that much about this engine. But I do care enough about it to do it right.

With ignition on engine not started its at 40 even. I start the car and now I can account for the initial bogging down from my engine. The fpr reads at like 45-48 psi while its bogging and then settles back down at 42.

[Dattebayo]

Fuel Pressure Regulators (FPR) are to be set to 43.5 psi with the vacuum source hose unplugged from it. With the hose plugged in, the regulator should read 36 psi.

Try that first at idle. Then lets see about your igniter wiring.

[kornmanz]

k. Its set wrong then. God the previous owner is dumb lol. He's all telling me its cause of the ecu not reading the tune. Oh man and I believed him. God I hate this guy more and more.

[Dattebayo]

As for the Igniter wiring:

K. I'll dig into those wires tonight and re do them all. I really suck at soldering so thats not really something I want to do. I think I'd just mess it up. So can I just re-crimp everything and make sure that the wires are stripped enough?

I don't even know how damaged they are.

There would be no straight answer unless I could actually inspect them I guess. If it got damaged, I would start with trying to replace the whole connector and pigtail on the side that got damaged by soldering the connections. Crimps are just not good enough for the temperature extremes that an engine bay has.