I need help with deciding what performance upgrades to get for my car as I have a 95 Q45t with 135K. I have the car since 60K and love every mile on it as it has been a really good running car. I was thinking about getting a new car, but many of the new cars just don't feel as solid as my Q and I would rather put about $4K in perfomance upgrades versus get mysef into another $600+ car payment again. Here are some questions that I have and thanks in advance for your help as I am a newbie to these mods. By the way...I live in Miami so if any of you all know of anyone here that can do the mods or help out that would be great. I have always had the car maintained at the dealerships, expensive I know, but the car still runs just as good as when I got it and I have always had the oil changed at 3,500 miles.
1. Stillen vs. JWT ECU upgrade??? Which one is better, I had only heard of Stillen until I found this forum?
2. How much better performance do I get out of the nose cone air filter type versus the regular K&N square air filter.
3. I am thinkig about getting some Toicko Blue shocks...I hear that they are 10% stiffer..any thoughts
4. 30mm Lowering springs...I just want to stiffen up the ride and make it handle better around the corners.
5. Are there any transmission chips for my year?? If so what do they do for it?
6. Are there any pulleys for the car?
7. Strut tower brace...as on Stillens website, does this make that much of a difference?
8. I can't seem to find many serious upgrades to my Q's hp other than that mentioned above and a supercharger that is in the making....what about the NO2 system from Stillen or somone else? How many times a month/week can I use this before I start to see long term damage from this?
9. I am getting some new 18x8.5 (f) and 18x9.5 (r) with +38mm offset for the car as well which will help out with handling and wheel spinning as for some reason or another I just can't seem keep my foot off the floor
Thanks....Rob
newbie...95 Q45t performance upgrade questions - recommendations needed
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elwesso
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1. They are both the same... Contact AAACOMP, hes a member here and does the same thing for much cheaper than stillen or having to mess with the horribleness of JWT..2. No difference.. keep the stock setup WITH stock paper filter... Just do it, no HP gains there, and only negative side affects... I would search for more info...3. I have blues all around and I love it!! Get them from alex at southwest auto works... He will hook you up, and my car handles PERFECT!!! Better than my parents 02 GTP!4. IMO its not worth it... makes the shocks wear out faster for <basically> no benefits..... Execpt looks..5. No transmission chips and i dont think there's any needed..... IE no benefits6. No7. Yes, big difference... You can also modify a 00+ maxima bar and those are dirt cheap.. The mods necessary are well documented on the site8. Fred (palmerWMD) has the NOS setup from stillen on his Q... Its nice, and with the 100 shot its pretty safe...... I would use 75 to be even safer, especially since you have a used engine (freds is bran new)9. WOOHOO!!! Post pictures... FYI make sure you get some GOOD tires or it will be worthless...... If its not too late, i would get 17s...
1. They are both the same... Contact AAACOMP, hes a member here and does the same thing for much cheaper than stillen or having to mess with the horribleness of JWT..2. No difference.. keep the stock setup WITH stock paper filter... Just do it, no HP gains there, and only negative side affects... I would search for more info...3. I have blues all around and I love it!! Get them from alex at southwest auto works... He will hook you up, and my car handles PERFECT!!! Better than my parents 02 GTP!4. IMO its not worth it... makes the shocks wear out faster for <basically> no benefits..... Execpt looks..5. No transmission chips and i dont think there's any needed..... IE no benefits6. No7. Yes, big difference... You can also modify a 00+ maxima bar and those are dirt cheap.. The mods necessary are well documented on the site8. Fred (palmerWMD) has the NOS setup from stillen on his Q... Its nice, and with the 100 shot its pretty safe...... I would use 75 to be even safer, especially since you have a used engine (freds is bran new)9. WOOHOO!!! Post pictures... FYI make sure you get some GOOD tires or it will be worthless...... If its not too late, i would get 17s...
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HeavyDuty
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Brian, I gotta tell ya, my impression with the JWT ECU in my 91 with the 'high shift' TCU isn't that great.
Maybe with the NOS engaged, that last few (600) rpm will change my mind, but after a week with the setup, I've noticed it holds 1st too long, then putzes around between 1st & 2nd. On a light pedal accel, it shifts nice & crisp though 1-2.
I think I'm going to send it back & request a reprogram to the 3 mode TCU & use 1st start no high shift & shift manually for best 1-2 shifts. If I shift manually with a stock TCU at about 4500, by the time it shifts, I'm just at of my torque peak.
Revving higher, not pulling up there though. (Referencing earlier discussion with Q45Tech on the intake runner length & his standard 6500 rpm power quotes.)
Maybe with the NOS engaged, that last few (600) rpm will change my mind, but after a week with the setup, I've noticed it holds 1st too long, then putzes around between 1st & 2nd. On a light pedal accel, it shifts nice & crisp though 1-2.
I think I'm going to send it back & request a reprogram to the 3 mode TCU & use 1st start no high shift & shift manually for best 1-2 shifts. If I shift manually with a stock TCU at about 4500, by the time it shifts, I'm just at of my torque peak.
Revving higher, not pulling up there though. (Referencing earlier discussion with Q45Tech on the intake runner length & his standard 6500 rpm power quotes.)
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maxnix
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1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
Thanks for the interesting feedback, Heavy Duty.
I think if you read Q45tech's posts, he doesn't claim the extra revolutions on the top end help the power, but permit a better location in the power band after the shift occurs. I believe the engine is pretty peaked at 6500 rpm. My theory is JWT raised the rpm limit to accomodate the higher numerical ratios of the 1st and 2nd gears on the pre 1994 G50. The closer coupling of the post 1993 2nd and 3rd gears (necessitating the lower numerical 1st gear since there was no 5 speed automatic available then) certainly hurts launch, but works wonders on the highway.
Seems like JWT just says call us on their website for the later model TCU, so who knows what they really do?
Personally, I am still on the fence for the 1994 and after cars when it comes to these Control Units, as all the benefits seem to occur at WOT from 2500 rpm to redline, and are marginal even then, at best. Not usually driving like that more than once or twice a week makes me wonder if money can be better spent on wheels, tires and brakes which are used every day, after all the regular maintenance is up to snuff (which it never quite is).__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45
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I think if you read Q45tech's posts, he doesn't claim the extra revolutions on the top end help the power, but permit a better location in the power band after the shift occurs. I believe the engine is pretty peaked at 6500 rpm. My theory is JWT raised the rpm limit to accomodate the higher numerical ratios of the 1st and 2nd gears on the pre 1994 G50. The closer coupling of the post 1993 2nd and 3rd gears (necessitating the lower numerical 1st gear since there was no 5 speed automatic available then) certainly hurts launch, but works wonders on the highway.
Seems like JWT just says call us on their website for the later model TCU, so who knows what they really do?
Personally, I am still on the fence for the 1994 and after cars when it comes to these Control Units, as all the benefits seem to occur at WOT from 2500 rpm to redline, and are marginal even then, at best. Not usually driving like that more than once or twice a week makes me wonder if money can be better spent on wheels, tires and brakes which are used every day, after all the regular maintenance is up to snuff (which it never quite is).__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45
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Q45tech
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1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
The TCU doesn't affect the shift time [other than signal the pressure solenoid electrically].........the valve body and line pressure do. Just because the tcu say 100% line pressure doesn't tell you how much pressure is leaking around seals inside the transmission.Once the TCU signals max line pressure, it's up to the transmission to deliver!When you put at JWT on a worn transmission [one older than 30k or one that had the 2nd gear start abuse] weird things can happen.
I was lucky enough to get a trimode when I replaced my transmission at 50k........then be able to see the slow progressive lengthening from zero miles to 185k, then get a fresh new transmission again to see the sharp crisp shifts...........at 36k currently on the 3rd transmission it is a tiny bit slower shifting than brand new.
Don't blame the tcu for the transmission's inability to keep up with commands.
With a Consult you can graph the speed/rpm in 0.01 second increments and log the shift commands [in time] vs engine speed which lets you accurate measure the REAL shift time delays vs. electrical commands.
There are pressure ports on the rear of transmission where you can measure what the line pressure actually gets to and evaluate how much internal leakage you have........to decide replacement time.
In summer [heat] brand new Mobil 1 syn ATF or [even Redline High Temp ATF ---- careful unusable below 60F ambient] can increase the line pressure due to higher viscosity and shorten the shifts.
I was lucky enough to get a trimode when I replaced my transmission at 50k........then be able to see the slow progressive lengthening from zero miles to 185k, then get a fresh new transmission again to see the sharp crisp shifts...........at 36k currently on the 3rd transmission it is a tiny bit slower shifting than brand new.
Don't blame the tcu for the transmission's inability to keep up with commands.
With a Consult you can graph the speed/rpm in 0.01 second increments and log the shift commands [in time] vs engine speed which lets you accurate measure the REAL shift time delays vs. electrical commands.
There are pressure ports on the rear of transmission where you can measure what the line pressure actually gets to and evaluate how much internal leakage you have........to decide replacement time.
In summer [heat] brand new Mobil 1 syn ATF or [even Redline High Temp ATF ---- careful unusable below 60F ambient] can increase the line pressure due to higher viscosity and shorten the shifts.
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HeavyDuty
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95 Nissan 240SX S14
96 Nissan D21
06 Nissan 350Z Z33
maxnix wrote:I think if you read Q45tech's posts, he doesn't claim the extra revolutions on the top end help the power, but permit a better location in the power band after the shift occurs. I believe the engine is pretty peaked at 6500 rpm.
I did read it & I'm agreeing with his comments. If you shift higher, it will result in a better powerband after, but they also drop VVL engagement with the ECU, making the higher shift a bit redundant, IMO.
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HeavyDuty
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Q45tech wrote:The TCU doesn't affect the shift time [other than signal the pressure solenoid electrically].........the valve body and line pressure do. When you put at JWT on a worn transmission [one older than 30k or one that had the 2nd gear start abuse] weird things can happen.
The trans is fresh & had light valve body mods when rebuilt 6k miles ago. I do need a cooler & prefer Mobil1, but do have not done so yet.
Which mode do you find yourself using the most, 1st start only or 1st gear hi shift? No offense to Ben @ JWT, but I specifically asked if the TCU increased line pressure and was told no. That is wrong, I have neck snapping 1-2's & very firm 2-3's now, just not at 7,000 1-2. Firmer than it was.Q45tech wrote:I was lucky enough to get a trimode when I replaced my transmission at 50k..........
Understood, but again, what I'm talking about is more like that the higher revs are just revs and not pull. With my single mode hi shift, I can not control my shifts 1-2, even if the selector is in 1, it shifts when it wants to. There's no power that high in the band, I'd rather get to the next gear in an appropriate rpm with vvl enganged & continue accelerating instead of just revving.Q45tech wrote:Don't blame the tcu for the transmission's inability to keep up with commands.
I'm one of JWT's biggest proponents, I don't think they missed the mark here. I will make a concerted effort to install my cooler & change my fluid now that I have a few miles on the trans & see how it feels. I might temporarily install press gauges in the ports on the tailshaft & record my readings.
Thank you all for your comments. I plan to research a couple of the options and then go the best option for me with my tax return monies. I am very interested in the supercharger project, but would like more info as I have a friend with a 2001 XK8 that he was going to supercharge the engine into a XKR since he thought it was basically the same engine but without the supercharger as in the XKR. He later found out that the compression ratio is already too high on the normally aspirated engine and that adding a supercharger would not be wise. Something like the non-supercharger XK8 has a compression of 11:1 while the supercharged engine has a compression of 9:1.
I have a few additonal questions after doing some research.
1. Why would the addition of a K&N air filter not be good for the car??
2. I spoke with Stillen and they said that the only way I coud get the more advanced NOS system was to have their ECU upgrade also and not somebody's else's upgrade such as JWT. Is this true? They gave me a good price for the ECU alone over the phone $605.
3. How much additional HP do I get with the ECU upgrade and how noticeable is it?
4. Stillen has a 3 way switch TCU upgrade that I can switch between 1st start, OEM settings, and higher shift points. I am considering this option, but would like to hear from you all first if you had any experience with this TCU from them as I just read the posts from others on the TCU stuff.
5. I just had the transmission rebuilt at 120K, but I don't think that the guy did a real good job. The car shifts smooth under normal driving and most of the time under WOT, but every now and then under WOT from a stand still it tends to hold a bit longer out there between 1-2 than I would like. Would the TCU take car of this? My old transmission always had a very hard and quick shift between 1-2 that always occured, even under normal driving conditions. It gave great quick shifts, but they really always jolted the car and I knew that it was not right, but left it alone until the transmission failed. One day the car just did not go into reverse mode any more....all forward gears worked but no reverse.
I will post pics once I get all the mods done which will be about 2 months or so as I will probably have the car repainted while I am traveling on business. Right now, my car is a standard black 95 Q45T with the normal door dings with the not so nice addition of a key mark on my rear drivers side quarter panel that happened about 1 year ago.
Definetly under serious consideration are the following;ECUNOSStrut Tower BarTokico Blues18" wheels***And of course a new black paint job.
Second thoughts are for the following:TCULowering Springs
Thanks again,
Rob
I have a few additonal questions after doing some research.
1. Why would the addition of a K&N air filter not be good for the car??
2. I spoke with Stillen and they said that the only way I coud get the more advanced NOS system was to have their ECU upgrade also and not somebody's else's upgrade such as JWT. Is this true? They gave me a good price for the ECU alone over the phone $605.
3. How much additional HP do I get with the ECU upgrade and how noticeable is it?
4. Stillen has a 3 way switch TCU upgrade that I can switch between 1st start, OEM settings, and higher shift points. I am considering this option, but would like to hear from you all first if you had any experience with this TCU from them as I just read the posts from others on the TCU stuff.
5. I just had the transmission rebuilt at 120K, but I don't think that the guy did a real good job. The car shifts smooth under normal driving and most of the time under WOT, but every now and then under WOT from a stand still it tends to hold a bit longer out there between 1-2 than I would like. Would the TCU take car of this? My old transmission always had a very hard and quick shift between 1-2 that always occured, even under normal driving conditions. It gave great quick shifts, but they really always jolted the car and I knew that it was not right, but left it alone until the transmission failed. One day the car just did not go into reverse mode any more....all forward gears worked but no reverse.
I will post pics once I get all the mods done which will be about 2 months or so as I will probably have the car repainted while I am traveling on business. Right now, my car is a standard black 95 Q45T with the normal door dings with the not so nice addition of a key mark on my rear drivers side quarter panel that happened about 1 year ago.
Definetly under serious consideration are the following;ECUNOSStrut Tower BarTokico Blues18" wheels***And of course a new black paint job.
Second thoughts are for the following:TCULowering Springs
Thanks again,
Rob
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maxnix
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1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
At higher speeds, the newer "slow" one is fine for me. Wouldn't want it any quicker or more twitchy. Just my preference.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45PalmerWMD wrote:One real valuable improvement for a 94/96 is a 90-93 steering rack.
A bit tighter and sportier feel.
Fred..
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Timing is everything as the dealer told me that I would need a new steering rack soon as the old one leaking and had some other things wrong with it. They said it would be about $800 for parts and $550 labor to replace this. I think these are two of the same things and I will ask the dealer about switching them out........thanks for the advice.
Rob
Rob
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elwesso
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Quote »1. Why would the addition of a K&N air filter not be good for the car??
2. I spoke with Stillen and they said that the only way I coud get the more advanced NOS system was to have their ECU upgrade also and not somebody's else's upgrade such as JWT. Is this true? They gave me a good price for the ECU alone over the phone $605.
3. How much additional HP do I get with the ECU upgrade and how noticeable is it?
4. Stillen has a 3 way switch TCU upgrade that I can switch between 1st start, OEM settings, and higher shift points. I am considering this option, but would like to hear from you all first if you had any experience with this TCU from them as I just read the posts from others on the TCU stuff.
5. I just had the transmission rebuilt at 120K, but I don't think that the guy did a real good job. The car shifts smooth under normal driving and most of the time under WOT, but every now and then under WOT from a stand still it tends to hold a bit longer out there between 1-2 than I would like. Would the TCU take car of this? My old transmission always had a very hard and quick shift between 1-2 that always occured, even under normal driving conditions. It gave great quick shifts, but they really always jolted the car and I knew that it was not right, but left it alone until the transmission failed. One day the car just did not go into reverse mode any more....all forward gears worked but no reverse. [/quote]1. BeThe K/N air filters are no good because they dont provide you with any more power (IE dont flow much better)... Even if they do flow better, more dirt can get in and not to mention the filter oil getting on the MAF!! EWW, not stuff I want on there.. The MAF is a delicate instrument and ANYTHING on it can really mess up its function..... The only thing it will give you is more noise and more dirt!!! No power benefits, the intake tract is already as good as its gonna get!!
2. Im sure AAACOMP could reprogram your ECU for NOS usage..... However, if im not mistake the NOS kit from stillen includes a NOS ECU???
3. It leans the mixture and does a few other minor things (like moving up the redline and other safety things), and its VERY noticeable (so I hear) especially down low.. I think it makes the car feel a bit peppier... Maybe 30-40hp.....
4. If you want higher shift points, OEM and 1st gear start why not just shift it manually.. Saves a helluva lot of money and the TCU might be a waste.....
5. I dont think so...... In fact i thikn a new TCU might make it worse...... However, it would lean more towards that it wouldnt do anything for you... I could see it being applied to a new transmission much more than an old (and possibly not so good) transmission... The TCU wouldnt signal to shift any sooner, if anything it would signal LATER.
2. I spoke with Stillen and they said that the only way I coud get the more advanced NOS system was to have their ECU upgrade also and not somebody's else's upgrade such as JWT. Is this true? They gave me a good price for the ECU alone over the phone $605.
3. How much additional HP do I get with the ECU upgrade and how noticeable is it?
4. Stillen has a 3 way switch TCU upgrade that I can switch between 1st start, OEM settings, and higher shift points. I am considering this option, but would like to hear from you all first if you had any experience with this TCU from them as I just read the posts from others on the TCU stuff.
5. I just had the transmission rebuilt at 120K, but I don't think that the guy did a real good job. The car shifts smooth under normal driving and most of the time under WOT, but every now and then under WOT from a stand still it tends to hold a bit longer out there between 1-2 than I would like. Would the TCU take car of this? My old transmission always had a very hard and quick shift between 1-2 that always occured, even under normal driving conditions. It gave great quick shifts, but they really always jolted the car and I knew that it was not right, but left it alone until the transmission failed. One day the car just did not go into reverse mode any more....all forward gears worked but no reverse. [/quote]1. BeThe K/N air filters are no good because they dont provide you with any more power (IE dont flow much better)... Even if they do flow better, more dirt can get in and not to mention the filter oil getting on the MAF!! EWW, not stuff I want on there.. The MAF is a delicate instrument and ANYTHING on it can really mess up its function..... The only thing it will give you is more noise and more dirt!!! No power benefits, the intake tract is already as good as its gonna get!!
2. Im sure AAACOMP could reprogram your ECU for NOS usage..... However, if im not mistake the NOS kit from stillen includes a NOS ECU???
3. It leans the mixture and does a few other minor things (like moving up the redline and other safety things), and its VERY noticeable (so I hear) especially down low.. I think it makes the car feel a bit peppier... Maybe 30-40hp.....
4. If you want higher shift points, OEM and 1st gear start why not just shift it manually.. Saves a helluva lot of money and the TCU might be a waste.....
5. I dont think so...... In fact i thikn a new TCU might make it worse...... However, it would lean more towards that it wouldnt do anything for you... I could see it being applied to a new transmission much more than an old (and possibly not so good) transmission... The TCU wouldnt signal to shift any sooner, if anything it would signal LATER.
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maxnix
- Posts: 22627
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1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
Good Advice
Edited:
If a poster can't make a minimal effort to make your post comprehensible, it is a disservice to the other board members. Well articulated posts and questions will always elicit more timely and relevant reponses.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45
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I agree.PalmerWMD wrote:Good job on summarizing, just type a bit more detailed, so its understandable, I know what you know, but even so, its hard to make out what exactly you are trying to explain sometimes.
(As it is with me when I have too many typos)
Fred...
If a poster can't make a minimal effort to make your post comprehensible, it is a disservice to the other board members. Well articulated posts and questions will always elicit more timely and relevant reponses.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45
Discover the power of the button!
thanks guys for your reply's to my posts and the extra detail. I am sure that you all have answered these same questions many times over again, but I appreciate your patience and help very much as it gives me more of a positive experience owning the car and getting help with it which in turn I will pass on to others that ask me about how I like the car. All the stuff makes much sense such as with the K&N thingy and possibly switching to an earlier steering rack setup. The detail really helps me understand why things work the way they do. I will keep you all posted on how the car is coming along.
The NOS system from Stillen does have a NOS ECU for it. Stillen said that I needed the upgraded regular ECU as well as the NOS ECU to make it work correctly, otherwise Stillen said that they could only sell me some basic NOS kit that was not as advanced as the one that goes with the upgraded ECU. Below are the prices they quoted me.
ECU $605NOS ECU $365NOS Hardware @ 70 Shot $750Strut Bar $129
Total thus far...$1,850
I will get the shocks and/or springs from Southest Autoworks and thanks for the recommendations and all the help.
I can't wait to get the old Q running very fast again and surprise a few of these new car guys that get enjoy beating a 9 yr old car with 135K when they have a brand new car with more HP. I had a guy in a LS430 race me the other day and yes he beat me but not by much...my front bumper was about half a car length behind his rear bumper from 0 to about 85 and when we got to the next light the guy said how did you like that spanking. I told him that it was great that he can take his 2003 LS 430 and beat a 9 year old 135K Q and then told him yeah...I may not have techinically won this race, but I sure the hell did not loose this race either and that if he had a 95 LS400 that it would be a much different story. I think he understood what I was getting at and then he drove off. I don't look for races very much anymore as many of these new cars are just really fast, but if someone gives it to me I will run with them even if I know I will loose just to see how close I am behind them. I raced an A4 or S4 the other day as well from about 80 on and when I hit 90 with the shift I really took the guy and he kept on going...but I let off after 110.
Rob
The NOS system from Stillen does have a NOS ECU for it. Stillen said that I needed the upgraded regular ECU as well as the NOS ECU to make it work correctly, otherwise Stillen said that they could only sell me some basic NOS kit that was not as advanced as the one that goes with the upgraded ECU. Below are the prices they quoted me.
ECU $605NOS ECU $365NOS Hardware @ 70 Shot $750Strut Bar $129
Total thus far...$1,850
I will get the shocks and/or springs from Southest Autoworks and thanks for the recommendations and all the help.
I can't wait to get the old Q running very fast again and surprise a few of these new car guys that get enjoy beating a 9 yr old car with 135K when they have a brand new car with more HP. I had a guy in a LS430 race me the other day and yes he beat me but not by much...my front bumper was about half a car length behind his rear bumper from 0 to about 85 and when we got to the next light the guy said how did you like that spanking. I told him that it was great that he can take his 2003 LS 430 and beat a 9 year old 135K Q and then told him yeah...I may not have techinically won this race, but I sure the hell did not loose this race either and that if he had a 95 LS400 that it would be a much different story. I think he understood what I was getting at and then he drove off. I don't look for races very much anymore as many of these new cars are just really fast, but if someone gives it to me I will run with them even if I know I will loose just to see how close I am behind them. I raced an A4 or S4 the other day as well from about 80 on and when I hit 90 with the shift I really took the guy and he kept on going...but I let off after 110.
Rob
I have not forgotten about the supercharger and I am seriously considering it...I just need to do some research on my own before I commit. I had a friend who tried to ad a super charger to his 2001 Jag XK8 to make it an XKR...the supercharged one with 390 hp. In the end he found out that the non-supercharged engines compression was too high (11:1??) to safely add the super charger as the supercharged engine ran only a 9:1 compression. I was thinking about giving the guys at Steeda a call who are here in Ft. Lauderdale to see what they say. I know that they do Mustangs, but I just want a second opinion before I do something like this to my car that is a daily driver. The main reason I am doing all these things to my car is that I have looked at cars and I would have to spend about $35K on a good car to get the performance that I want and I don't want another $650+ car payment. Besides, having a car that many don't know about that will move very fast is exciting to me. I drive the Q because they are not a dime a dozen although this makes it really difficult to modify. I give thumbs up to the supercharger risk taker guys. After you all get the supercharger up and running...we will have to call you all the "trend setters" as I am sure that others besides me will envy your preformance numbers.....
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elwesso
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I would HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend you get the car in PERFECT mechanical shape and make sure everything is sound before you start on the mods...
You wanna play you gotta pay... Souping up a car thats not in PRIME condition could be VERY expensive compared to if you just did it now and ogt it over with......
Where are you located.....
You wanna play you gotta pay... Souping up a car thats not in PRIME condition could be VERY expensive compared to if you just did it now and ogt it over with......
Where are you located.....
can any of you all verify this for a 95 Q45T...
The Touring Package adds rear-wheel steering, stiffer springs and a rear anti-roll bar.
I know that the rear end is very stiff and the ride is stiffer, but I don't know about the rear-wheel steering. I know the 93-94 J30T had this, but I think that they discontinued it in 95 due to problems or the cost was just way to much for the benefit...
The Touring Package adds rear-wheel steering, stiffer springs and a rear anti-roll bar.
I know that the rear end is very stiff and the ride is stiffer, but I don't know about the rear-wheel steering. I know the 93-94 J30T had this, but I think that they discontinued it in 95 due to problems or the cost was just way to much for the benefit...
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
The term rear wheel steering is confusing, in that the rear wheels only move a few degrees vs the 30+ degrees of the front wheels.
A 1-2 degree change in rear thrust angle is significant at speed.
Variable Rear toe [change] would be a better mpre precise term.
Back to JWT TCU: The internal line/shift pressure is controlled electronically by the line pressure solenoid which has a variable duty cycle [it's pulsed on and off]..........after recovery [the shift] the line pressure goes to 100% closed so 100% is 100% that why no software changes can increase PEAK line pressure.They can change the line pressure lower or ramp it up faster or slower than oem program.
Much of the harsher shift bump comes from signaling the ecu to reintroduce timing advance removed just prior to the shift FASTER.
Something like this Mustang article except even the 90 Q has this reduction.http://www.mustangworks.com/ar....html
A 1-2 degree change in rear thrust angle is significant at speed.
Variable Rear toe [change] would be a better mpre precise term.
Back to JWT TCU: The internal line/shift pressure is controlled electronically by the line pressure solenoid which has a variable duty cycle [it's pulsed on and off]..........after recovery [the shift] the line pressure goes to 100% closed so 100% is 100% that why no software changes can increase PEAK line pressure.They can change the line pressure lower or ramp it up faster or slower than oem program.
Much of the harsher shift bump comes from signaling the ecu to reintroduce timing advance removed just prior to the shift FASTER.
Something like this Mustang article except even the 90 Q has this reduction.http://www.mustangworks.com/ar....html
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HeavyDuty
- Posts: 1281
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:51 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
95 Nissan 240SX S14
96 Nissan D21
06 Nissan 350Z Z33
Correct me if I'm wrong, layman terms, ramp rate = increase in pressure prior to shift. A solenoid by nature is either on or off.Q45tech wrote:Back to JWT TCU: The internal line/shift pressure is controlled electronically by the line pressure solenoid which has a variable duty cycle [it's pulsed on and off]..........after recovery [the shift] the line pressure goes to 100% closed so 100% is 100% that why no software changes can increase PEAK line pressure.They can change the line pressure lower or ramp it up faster or slower than oem program.
Q45tech wrote:Much of the harsher shift bump comes from signaling the ecu to reintroduce timing advance removed just prior to the shift FASTER.
Yes! That's what I described prior to installing my ECU/TCU. A horrible excessive timing pull between 1st & 2nd just like the Ford ECU. ACK!
rsiwicki, we need to chat about Schtealin & the JWT ECU w/n2o pricing & power shot.
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
No, the timing is ramped down from say 25 degrees to 5-zero before the shift [a few tenths of a second], during the shift it runs at 5 degrees, the tcu knows the shift works by the speed and rev sensors, when its sure the shift has occured it ramps the time back up to 20 degrees over the next second...........the tcu does all the thinking and tell the ecu what to do during this period.
The optimum timing varies by engine rpm at the torque peak it might be 22 degrees and increases 1 degree per 500 rpm to HP peak rpm [as volumetric efficiency falls- less filling air per stroke]
22>23>24>25>26, 26, 26 @ 6,500 [exact numbers function of MAF and coolant temp.
6500 rpm =26deg [shift signal from tcu] 25,20,15,10, 5,5,5,5,5,5, 5, 7,9,11,15, 17, 20, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 22, 22.5,23, 23.5, 24, 24.5,25,25.5, 26 ready to shift again.
The timing pull out is a preprogrammed time period if the transmission is sluggish and doesn't shift as fast as the program, the tcu keeps the timing retarded longer till the sensors say the shift has been accomplished.
See the condition of the transmission is the gating item not the tcu program which assumes that the entire shift can be accomplished in 600-700 milliseconds.
http://www.s2.chalmers.se/rese...g.pdf
http://www.lubegard.com/automo...r.pdf
see even 0.02 seconds matters when extrpolated over 20,000 shift cycles
The optimum timing varies by engine rpm at the torque peak it might be 22 degrees and increases 1 degree per 500 rpm to HP peak rpm [as volumetric efficiency falls- less filling air per stroke]
22>23>24>25>26, 26, 26 @ 6,500 [exact numbers function of MAF and coolant temp.
6500 rpm =26deg [shift signal from tcu] 25,20,15,10, 5,5,5,5,5,5, 5, 7,9,11,15, 17, 20, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 22, 22.5,23, 23.5, 24, 24.5,25,25.5, 26 ready to shift again.
The timing pull out is a preprogrammed time period if the transmission is sluggish and doesn't shift as fast as the program, the tcu keeps the timing retarded longer till the sensors say the shift has been accomplished.
See the condition of the transmission is the gating item not the tcu program which assumes that the entire shift can be accomplished in 600-700 milliseconds.
http://www.s2.chalmers.se/rese...g.pdf
http://www.lubegard.com/automo...r.pdf
see even 0.02 seconds matters when extrpolated over 20,000 shift cycles
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HeavyDuty
- Posts: 1281
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:51 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
95 Nissan 240SX S14
96 Nissan D21
06 Nissan 350Z Z33
Per your suggestion, and my preference anyway, I'm going to switch to Mobil1 & install my cooler. Hopefully it will help my 1-2 at WOT.Q45tech wrote:The timing pull out is a preprogrammed time period if the transmission is sluggish and doesn't shift as fast as the program, the tcu keeps the timing retarded longer till the sensors say the shift has been accomplished.
See the condition of the transmission is the gating item not the tcu program which assumes that the entire shift can be accomplished in 600-700 milliseconds.
Also as suggested I should install the gauges on the ports to see what's going on at 1-2 WOT.
I guess I don't understand why my light modulated 1-2's are very sharp, yet WOT 1-2 lags horribly. 2-3 is always crisp & quick even at WOT.
Before installing the TCU, I could hold 1st manually & when I shifted to 2, I would bark second gear without trying. Now with the high shift, it shifts to 2 even if the selector is in 1. I don't like that.