newbie...95 Q45t performance upgrade questions - recommendations needed

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HeavyDuty
Posts: 1281
Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:51 pm
Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
95 Nissan 240SX S14
96 Nissan D21
06 Nissan 350Z Z33

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rsiwicki wrote:The NOS system from Stillen does have a NOS ECU for it. Stillen said that I needed the upgraded regular ECU as well as the NOS ECU to make it work correctly, otherwise Stillen said that they could only sell me some basic NOS kit that was not as advanced as the one that goes with the upgraded ECU. Below are the prices they quoted me.

ECU $605NOS ECU $365NOS Hardware @ 70 Shot $750


I have the JWT ECU with 100 shot n2o program. FWIW, this is how it works. The ECU is upgraded with their standard program which bumps the rev limiter up, trims fuel maps slightly, and utilizes a more aggressive timing map. Then, a n2o module is installed inside the ecu and there are several wires coming out of the ecu itself. One is a twisted pair of shielded wires with a rocker switch. The other pair is a plug that attaches to a relay. On the output of the relay is a hot wire that goes to the Cheater solenoid. (As opposed to the smaller powershot solenoid from NOS). You simply ground the solenoid to the intake where it's mounted & attach the hot wire from the relay to the positive terminal on the solenoid. When the rocker switch is flipped to the NOS program, even while driving, it changes the ECU program itself to a different set of parameters that looks for wide open throttle & a certain rpm before the n2o module sends a signal to the relay to fire the solenoid. Assuming you have adequate NOS in the tank & the tank is opened, at X rpm it lets the n2o flow, then the ecu turns the solenoid off at X rpm, usually 200 rpm before redline. The n20 program widens the pulse width, or time the injectors are open & retards the timing for use with the n2o.

As Wes said, you must make absolutely sure the engine is in perfect tune before engaging any shot, and there are a lot of things you must do in order to not cause harm when it's engaged. There's even a procedure to force a timing change on a n2o equipped ecu upgrade only. It will not accept an ignition timing change the normal way. I don't know if even a consult can force a change on a n20 ecu. The JWT setup is meant for the timing to be exactly that of spec, with no variance. In our case, as well as on an SR20, that's 15 degrees, no +/- 2, particularly no +2. :D

On the Q, we're lucky. On other apps using this system, you have to upgrade the injectors to the ones the Q already has. (Purple 370's) It's also a good idea to upgrade the fuel pump, also to the one we already have.(Q45 or 300TT 90-95)

With that being said, I hope it makes sense. Now, as far as cost, you should expect to pay roughly:$500 hi perf program$350 for NOS moduleroughly $450(?) for the solenoid, lines & bottle kit.

I know I can get you the ecu with nos program and a tcu upgrade for $1250 + shipping. Then you can always add the NOS hardware kit later. The way to do that is to get a loaner ecu & tcu from someone here & send yours to them for the upgrade. Be patient, it takes a while.

PLEASE don't let anyone talk you into a wet nos system for your car. The intake manifold wasn't designed to flow "wet", rather it was designed to only flow air or in this case, gas vapor (n2o).

If a wet system is used on an efi dry manifold app, it's not a matter of "if" but "when" you're going to have a nitrous backfire which is when the fuel sprayed in the manifold "puddles" or recondenses into liquid and pools in the manifold. When it ignites, it's enough force to blow the manifold apart, or at least blow the throttle body plate outwards, as well as blow the airbox apart & destroy the MAF. Not fun.


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rsiwicki
Posts: 1984
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2004 3:31 pm
Car: 95 Q45T

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Tanks to you all for your comments on what I can do to my Q for peformance. Here is a list of what I have ordered so far and in the process of being completed and shipped in the next week or so....

18" WheelsEibach lowering Springs (ebay special)Toicko BluesStillen Intake - Nico member selling itStillen ECU - from StillenStillen FTSB - from StillenStillen Adjustable Cambers - from Stillen4.08 Rear end from LS Auto - currently being made right now...

I am holding off on the NOS system as I think that the 4.08 rearend will do me plenty as far as speed goes. The trans computer will be on hold as well until I figure if I just want to get a brand new transmission from Levelten or not as my current rebuilt trans does not shift well from 1-2 sometimes and takes too long for it too click into reverse gear after you select reverse...

I am doing all the things except the 4.08 rearend to my car within the next week or so as soon as all the parts come in. I have a couple additional questions that if someone could answer would be great as I would like to do everything at one time...

1. I am replacing the 94-96 steering rack (my current rack is shot) with a 90-93 rack, but I keep getting many different quotes of the parts only side....some racks are at $300 and others as high as $750 all from independent shops. The most expensive one is an EVO system for $750 and they could not tell me why it cost so much more than the others. I just want to know if it is worth the monies for an EVO system or just go with a regular rebuilt one. Also, I want to make sure that the 90-93 rack includes the new gear that makes the steering response quicker....how do I make sure that this is included in the kit that these guys are selling me?? If you all have a contact for me to get the part ordered that would be greatly appreciated.

2. Adjustable tension rods as seen on ebay....how do these differ from the factory tension rods and are they worth the monies....

3. Engine mounts and trans mounts??? I have a 136K on the car. How do I tell if these need replacing? I have always had the car serviced at the dealer and for the 120K service they did not mention that these need replacing. I had the transmission rebuilt 15K miles ago...would they have replaced the trans mount also then?

4. Fuel pump? I can hear a hissing sound when I am at WOT and shifting from 2-3.....but I don't really hear any other sounds besides this...an occasional humm hear and there when I first start the car, but nothing more than that....do I need to replace this as well?

Many thanks as your comments are always very much appreciated....

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AZhitman
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1) Many of these are rebuilds, which should be fine. Go with the budget.

2) Pass - Others will reply...

3) They're shot - trust me. Do the motor mounts.

4) Not a bad idea to avoid cooking the controller.


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