New Universal Turbo Kit from JDM

[Jacko3]

Anyone know anything about this system from JDM. See link below. It seems to be reasonably priced and it also appears to be universal in nature.

http://www.advancedjdmparts.co...19103

[rn79870]

Well Jacko, what are you waiting for?

[Jacko3]

Dear Rn79870:

Waiting for someone to give me their feedback on this one. I might go ahead and purchase it and keep. So that next year, I can start the install. What do you think about the kit?

[TeflonG35]

My advice is that you should only experiment on a car you can afford to live with it being broken down. That is very cheap for a turbo kit. I wouldn't gamble on my g35 with it. If it was a cheap honda or some beater, then who cares?

Unsafe boost can rape your car......

[Jacko3]

TeflonG35:

If boost can be controlled by adjusting a boost controller, how unsafe could the whole system be? I don't know much about these things, which is why I am asking. My goal is to keep power around 350-360 horses. Even if I installed this device, I don't plan to go beyond 4 or 5 PSI at anytime. Most likely, I would keep it at 2 or 3 PSI for daily driving. What do you think? I am not looking for a huge power gain of any sort---I just need just enough to make a regular corvette feel the heat of a G-35 once in a blue moon, even if the Corvette stays slightly ahead of me.

[TeflonG35]

You don't know the quality of these parts. The intercooler could be crap and not properly cool. The piping could be cheap and no be able to handle the boost. The boost controller might be crap. Lots of factors that could be bad. I really don't want to see you waste $800. Nor do i want you to blow up your car from something failing. You don't own a honda. G35s are expensive. It will cost alot more then the cost of that turbo to fix.

[gwoods]

You'd be better off peicing together your own turbo kit.

You need a way to manage detonation that that kit doesn't have. I don't know what your G's compression ratio is but the 07+ is 11-1 so adding much boost is not possible.

If your serious about boost buy a used motor and start the tear down and rebuild with forged parts and lower compression ratio.

[WDRacing]

That kit is crap for a few reasons. The add is full of lies and propaganda, the parts are NOT designed well at all even at a glance and the "parts list" is nowhere near complete enough to be considered universal in anything but the weakest of terms. A turbo by itself is "universal"...that doesn't mean it will work well or even at all.

Lies I noticed right off: Turbo compressor will NOT support 1200whp...utter crap. They use words like Type, meaning it's kinda like a proven part, but not quite. They use the Acro "JDM" and they don't use proper grammar or correct English in the ad. I dunno about you, but that doesn't give me a warm fuzzy about the company.

Design flaws: Inter cooler piping isn't designed to hold boost. The BOV is a fake, known to suffer from leaks. The wastegate is also a knockoff with known failures in the past. When the wastegate fails, the boost isn't controlled causing an overboost condition leading to detonation which leads to at least one cylinder going lean enough to destroy a piston ring land at the very least. At worse you destroy more then one piston, scratch the cylinder walls enough to require a complete overhaul.

Any "kit" that is under a $1000 is made up of weak materials and incomplete at best. This is a great example of what not to buy.

WD

[Jacko3]

WDRacing:

I agree completely with you. You are saying exactly what a buddy of mine I have been speaking with over the phone in the last hour on this issue, said. I posted this to see what you all and what my other buddies would say about this part, in order to put the picture together. I thank everyone for their input in this matter as all your comments matched exactly what my buddy said.

I am extremely pleased with all your comments as you have probably saved me and many more turbo neophytes from doing something really silly down the road. I think i will stick with NA parts for now until I gather up bits and pieces of the funds to add some real power to my G. Thanks a million everyone. .

Thanks a million guys!

[snwbrdr435]

If you only want around 350ish why not go supercharger?

[Jacko3]

Cost to power ratio seems somewhat higher than that of the turbo.

[infinitgkid]

My advice is that you should only experiment on a car you can afford to live with it being broken down. That is very cheap for a turbo kit. I wouldn't gamble on my g35 with it. If it was a cheap honda or some beater, then who cares?

Unsafe boost can rape your car......

You don't know the quality of these parts. The intercooler could be crap and not properly cool. The piping could be cheap and no be able to handle the boost. The boost controller might be crap. Lots of factors that could be bad. I really don't want to see you waste $800. Nor do i want you to blow up your car from something failing. You don't own a honda. G35s are expensive. It will cost alot more then the cost of that turbo to fix.

You'd be better off peicing together your own turbo kit.

You need a way to manage detonation that that kit doesn't have. I don't know what your G's compression ratio is but the 07+ is 11-1 so adding much boost is not possible.

If your serious about boost buy a used motor and start the tear down and rebuild with forged parts and lower compression ratio.

That kit is crap for a few reasons. The add is full of lies and propaganda, the parts are NOT designed well at all even at a glance and the "parts list" is nowhere near complete enough to be considered universal in anything but the weakest of terms. A turbo by itself is "universal"...that doesn't mean it will work well or even at all.

Lies I noticed right off: Turbo compressor will NOT support 1200whp...utter crap. They use words like Type, meaning it's kinda like a proven part, but not quite. They use the Acro "JDM" and they don't use proper grammar or correct English in the ad. I dunno about you, but that doesn't give me a warm fuzzy about the company.

Design flaws: Inter cooler piping isn't designed to hold boost. The BOV is a fake, known to suffer from leaks. The wastegate is also a knockoff with known failures in the past. When the wastegate fails, the boost isn't controlled causing an overboost condition leading to detonation which leads to at least one cylinder going lean enough to destroy a piston ring land at the very least. At worse you destroy more then one piston, scratch the cylinder walls enough to require a complete overhaul.

Any "kit" that is under a $1000 is made up of weak materials and incomplete at best. This is a great example of what not to buy.

WD

you fellas just saved me a lot of typing...

[Beancooker]

Brian (WDRacing) is spot on in his assessment. He has forgotten more info about turbos than I will ever know.

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

Jacko... why don't you buy that and test it on a Furd first

If it explodes... no one will care here! It would be better as scrap metal than as a Rustang!

DJ

[Jacko3]

Yep! You are right.

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

the sad part is that we all know that!

[Kenrik]

it's missing the manifolds + the turbo alone should cost close to the price of the whole kit...

I call

[Minmey15]

Cost to power ratio seems somewhat higher than that of the turbo.

Do you drag race? I thought you were into twisties. I would assume that S/C would give you better response than T/C, and it is more suitable than T/C for your needs. Have you ever driven a car with S/C or turbo? Max power is one thing, but torque and horse power curve is more important, don't you think?

[WDRacing]

Do you drag race? I thought you were into twisties. I would assume that S/C would give you better response than T/C, and it is more suitable than T/C for your needs. Have you ever driven a car with S/C or turbo? Max power is one thing, but torque and horse power curve is more important, don't you think?

The turbo is better then the centrifugal supercharger is almost every way. Torque and horsepower come from being on boost for more of the usable rpm band. The supercharger does not hit full boost until you reach your maximum rpm. The turbo does not heat the air any more then the s/c. The turbocharged car can be driven without boosting any time you want since the turbo's boost threshold is based on load not rpm, the s/c however will be making some boost all day. Causing worse gas mileage and more wear on the motor. Which is the exact opposite of what most people assume. The turbo produces "some" back pressure, which is immediately negated by the parasitic loss the s/c puts on the motor since it's belt driven. A properly sized turbo can produce almost immediate full boost when WOT is applied yet still be driven in traffic off boost...NO s/c except for a roots type will produce immediate boost. To adjust the boost pressure of the turbo you turn a knob inside the car...while driving if you want to. To change the boost on the s/c you need to swap pulleys. The turbo has no belt slippage.

Almost all information that says the s/c is better then the turbo is largely produced from uninformed opinions scattered across the Internet.

Is the s/c bad...hell no. Boost in all forms is the way to go. NA = gay but the turbo IS the better choice if you want to make an informed opinion.

WD

[TeflonG35]

Or you can compensate for the lag with a little Nitrous oxide. They have turbo kits where the nitrous(WOT of course) is only on until max boost is achieved. So you can get those bigger, meaner turbos without having to worry about lag. Not to mention if you go turbo you get to get a sweet sounding BOV. (I do know Centrifugal superchargers can get BOVs as well.)

Ive heard many stories of people going supercharger, aren't happy with the power and eventually going turbo. Not just with our cars.

[WDRacing]

Or you can compensate for the lag with a little Nitrous oxide. They have turbo kits where the nitrous(WOT of course) is only on until max boost is achieved. So you can get those bigger, meaner turbos without having to worry about lag. Not to mention if you go turbo you get to get a sweet sounding BOV. (I do know Centrifugal superchargers can get BOVs as well.)

Ive heard many stories of people going supercharger, aren't happy with the power and eventually going turbo. Not just with our cars.

I would use Nitrous at the track I suppose. But I wouldn't use it for spool, mostly just to get out of the whole and run a 2 stage so I can blast through the lights once I actually have traction.

The good thing with our current level of turbo tech is that you can buy a kit that will provide you with a compressor that will flow enough to support upwards of 650whp and match it to an exhaust housing that will yeild very minimal lag.

I've driven a couple of drag only setups...no fun at all. I took my first Skyline which was a blast to drive and totally ruined it by making it really fast in the 1320. I didn't know what I was doing, bought the wrong parts and generally made the car suck to drive. Unless you were trying to go as fast as you can...

[Jacko3]

WDRACING:

I love your explanantions. Very fun to read, clear, and concise. In fact, you and C-Kwik---another knowledgable guy, are the only two people I know that have staunchly stood by turbos, in comparison to some of us who have been skeweed towards superchargers.

However, I have a question, since our engines are high compression engines, is that a reason why turbos tend to have issues with the G-35 engines, when the engine is not rebuilt? I read somewhere on the internet that turbos are best with low compression engines than high compression engines. Any truth to this? I have my buddy who claims that he has seen his fair share of damaged turboed G-35 engines, when compared to Supercharged G-35 engines. Any explanantion to this? I would think that these damages are due to very high boost levels. I personally need only about 2 - 3 PSI of boost at any time---which I could adjust electronically, even though I know I could get a lot more boost beyond that level. What do you think about installing a turbo to my engine and keeping the boost levels very low for every day use?

[TeflonG35]

All forms of boost should be used with low compression.

2-3 PSI isen't really worth the 5k+ investment. You are looking more at 6-8 PSI on a turbo or supercharger kit designed for our motors. That is around the safe threshold of our high compression motors with boost. Most engines destroyed by turbos is because of people not getting their cars properly tuned. Like stated before turbos can rape your car.

The main benefit to superchargers is that in some states a turbo is illegal.

[WDRacing]

Lower compression is usually the route with ALL types of forced induction. A motor is compression vs octane limited even in naturally aspirated form. The higher the octane, the cooler and longer the combustion process is. The lower octane fuels burn easier and faster. Higher octane resists preignition and detonation which becomes an issue when you increase cylinder pressure either naturally or with forced induction. A supercharger and turbo both increase cylinder pressure the same way, neither is better when it comes to higher compression motors, except the traditional placement of the roots blower makes it very hard to run alot of boost because there is no intercooling.

It is proven that by reducing static compression and increasing boost you effectively increase the engines ability to make more power with any given octane rating.

When it comes to turbo's and all types of superchargers, lower compression is the best way to make more power. Most motors will tolerate low to minimum boost without detonation occurring. But in order to run mid level to high boost, say 10+psi, you're going to want lower compression or you'll be forced into running race fuel all the time.

Then there's alcohol injection...but that's another story.

WD

[Jacko3]

WDRacing:

Thanks a bunch.

[Jacko3]

TeflonG35:

Thanks a bunch. Actually, I was looking at the low boost numbers for the purposes of engine longevity and emissions. Do you think low boost numbers would be better for emmissions and longevity versus higher boost numbers? Also, I have to think about tickets as well. I have to find balance between performance, engine longevity, handling, emissions, etc. I want to be able to increase boost when I want to, but yet have small boost for daily use.

I guess with a supercharger like Vortech, i would have to change the belt size to reduce the amount of boost I really need. My goal is to find that middle ground. So, al these information is helping me decide when the time comes.

Modified by Jacko3 at 11:08 AM 6/3/2008
Modified by Jacko3 at 12:10 PM 6/3/2008

[WDRacing]

A simple dual stage boost controller will let you run 4 lbs of boost as a daily setting and allow you to crank up the wick to 30 if you so choose with the flip of a switch.

Low boost will be of course be easier on the motor, as the power increases so does the stress on the motor. All things should be improved upon when thinking in terms of longevity.

WD

[Jacko3]

WDRACING:

Again, as always, thanks. How are you doing today?

[WDRacing]

Not to bad...its supposed to hit 100 here today, so I'm thinking pool time here shortly.

[Sentientbydesign]

Can you shed any light on this picture?



Also, how much power will be yielded by a 4 PSI boost? 40ish?