New Universal Turbo Kit from JDM

[rn79870]

I've seen cats glow like that, but never a turbo. That has to be in a lab, becasue I think they would be very dangerous in an engine bay.

I'm gonna guess that 4 pounds (+14.7 = 18.7) / 14.7 = 1.27. I'll guess about 27% more HP. I have no idea if that formula is accurate or not, but it seems like a fair guess.

[Jacko3]

Yep, you can say that again---100 degrees Fahrenheit. I have been sweating like a cow that is about to meet its end in an abbattoir, since I stepped outside. I am glad my G is parked in a cool shaded area today. Since I drove the G today, I won't be on the prowl for another muscle car to kill this eveninig--hehehehe

[WDRacing]

Can you shed any light on this picture?



Also, how much power will be yielded by a 4 PSI boost? 40ish?

If you take almost any street car with a turbo and race it, the turbo will glow like that at night with no lights. Common sustained egt's are 1200+ degree's...tends to make things hot. Heat shielding and thermal wraps prevent surrounding under hood items from being melted.

The average gain is 10whp per 1 psi of boost.

WD

[Minmey15]

The turbo is better then the centrifugal supercharger is almost every way. Torque and horsepower come from being on boost for more of the usable rpm band. The supercharger does not hit full boost until you reach your maximum rpm. The turbo does not heat the air any more then the s/c. The turbocharged car can be driven without boosting any time you want since the turbo's boost threshold is based on load not rpm, the s/c however will be making some boost all day. Causing worse gas mileage and more wear on the motor. Which is the exact opposite of what most people assume. The turbo produces "some" back pressure, which is immediately negated by the parasitic loss the s/c puts on the motor since it's belt driven. A properly sized turbo can produce almost immediate full boost when WOT is applied yet still be driven in traffic off boost...NO s/c except for a roots type will produce immediate boost. To adjust the boost pressure of the turbo you turn a knob inside the car...while driving if you want to. To change the boost on the s/c you need to swap pulleys. The turbo has no belt slippage.

Almost all information that says the s/c is better then the turbo is largely produced from uninformed opinions scattered across the Internet.

Is the s/c bad...hell no. Boost in all forms is the way to go. NA = gay but the turbo IS the better choice if you want to make an informed opinion.

WD

That is very interesting and totally educational. Actually, I have never owned any S/C system. Every car I'had has been turbo charged. But I did test drive some cars that had S/C. One car I remember cearly is S15, and its turbo charger was swapped to S/C. At the time, I had S15 myself, and I couldn't believe how responsive it was. Of course, mine was producing more max power, but S/C system was just so responsive to throttle. Am I the only one who thinks S/C is more responsive than T/C? FYI, my S15 had stock turbocharger, which is pretty small.

Since my G35 is totally stock and have no clue of S/C and T/C for G35, is the T/C damage the engine that much more thn S/C? I always figured and was taught that any modification you do to the car shortens car's life. And turbo's heat and all that would cause more damage than S/C. I guess there are pros and cons?

[WDRacing]

That is very interesting and totally educational. Actually, I have never owned any S/C system. Every car I'had has been turbo charged. But I did test drive some cars that had S/C. One car I remember cearly is S15, and its turbo charger was swapped to S/C. At the time, I had S15 myself, and I couldn't believe how responsive it was. Of course, mine was producing more max power, but S/C system was just so responsive to throttle. Am I the only one who thinks S/C is more responsive than T/C? FYI, my S15 had stock turbocharger, which is pretty small.

Since my G35 is totally stock and have no clue of S/C and T/C for G35, is the T/C damage the engine that much more thn S/C? I always figured and was taught that any modification you do to the car shortens car's life. And turbo's heat and all that would cause more damage than S/C. I guess there are pros and cons?

You had a S15 240SX? Got pics of the S15 with the supercharger? What type of supercharger was it?

Increasing the power output of the engine in general puts more stress and load on the moving parts. So adding a turbo or S/C will add stress to the motor, I just hate saying it shortens the lifespan, because that's such a vague generalization.

WD

[Jacko3]

Very clear thoughts! I love the way you describe these complex issues with our cars. .

[infinitgkid]

Can you shed any light on this picture?



Also, how much power will be yielded by a 4 PSI boost? 40ish?

Yeah, WDRacing is right...

lol thats how we found the turbo's on my friend's BMW... they stood out quite a bit...

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

Yeah, WDRacing is right...

lol thats how we found the turbo's on my friend's BMW... they stood out quite a bit...

Did you really? or is this just a

[TeflonG35]

Jacko

I think if you want such low gains to just do bolt ons and tuning.

[Minmey15]

You had a S15 240SX? Got pics of the S15 with the supercharger? What type of supercharger was it?

Increasing the power output of the engine in general puts more stress and load on the moving parts. So adding a turbo or S/C will add stress to the motor, I just hate saying it shortens the lifespan, because that's such a vague generalization.

WD

WDR,

No, I had S15 Silvia Spec R in Japan. I also had R32 GTS-t, and though S15 was more nimble and responsive, I liked straight 6 turbo more than S15 for some reason.

I was at this shop, and they had a S15 with S/C. It was a quite fun ride.

[WDRacing]

I had a couple R32's also when I was over there. I was on Oki though...little farther south and not nearly as cool. But great beaches FTW.

Anyway, the S/C are the S15 must have been a roots type, similar to the way they install them on the Miata. They produce almost instant boost combined with a low torque SR20 it's really a good idea.

I have always wanted to do that myself, cept do it here stateside. I'm not an SR fan, but a S/C'd one would atleast be different.

WD

[Jacko3]

TeflonG35:

Yep! That maybe the most cost effective idea. If I do so, I might as well install, Strup Headers, Stillen High flow cats, before tuning the car. My concern with tuning the car is that i hope they don't lean it out too much. And the current rise in gas prices is another reason for me to consider tuning the car, as the current gas (ethanol blend) burns way too fast. Tuning should reduce my gas consumption by a bit. I would never have ordinarily considered tuning for bolt-on parts, until now. If I cannot scratch together the funds I need, this might be the way to go until I get the funds I need for a power adder.

[WDRacing]

If you're worroed about ease of install and bang for your buck a simple Nitrous kit can be installed and requires NO tuning at all for $450ish. A small 50whp jet isn't going to damage anything and won't require timing retard. So long as you use a wet kit that is.

WD

[Jacko3]

WDRacing:

Great idea! However, I learned on this forum from a picture displayed by "GWoods" sometime ago, that some gears in the transmission will ultimately be excessively worn or damaged by the use of Nitrous over time. I don't know much about this, and I wasn't sure if this was for wet or dry Nitrous systems, or if the worn gears was a result of poor materials used by the auto manufacturer. And I wonder how long Nitrous can be used during normal driving----few seconds or 5 minutes? I am also looking for something that can be sustained for 15 to 30 minutes max, without causing too much damage. Any ideas about this? And what about the operation of Nitrous systems? I get the impression that timing in when it is applied is of the essence.

All I am seeking is somewhere between 285 and 300 RWHP, in order to maintain a relatively reliable engine, maintain the current suspension and brake set up, and to maintian the current handling of the car so that it does not require more than an abnormal increase in suspension stiffness. Your thoughts?

Also Gwoods had mentioned something about a Plasma Booster for the spark plug coils, manufactured by some japanese company which sells for about $959 for a G-35. What have you heard about this and what do you think about this?

[WDRacing]

Not to knock what Gwoods said or posted, but a small shot of nitrous when engaged properly isn't going to harm the G35 gearing. If it does, it's not the nitrous, its the fact that Nissan/Infiniti has screwed the world over by using the worst materials available. Which I highly doubt. Adding Nitrous and boost are almost the same when it comes to stress on the motor/drivetrain.

WD

[Jacko3]

Sentient:

I agree! Thanks much.

Option 1: Light weight flywheel/clutch + light weight pulleys + TD exhaust + spacer + Mrevv + Headers + Cold air intake + tuning (will tuning the G with these modifications come close to 285 hp at the wheels?)

Option 2: Nitrous Oxide with little to no mods (no tuning).

Option 3. Stage 1 Stillen supercharger (if available for Rev up engine) ( no tuning)

Option 4. Go all out, risk it, and get either a Stillen Stage 2 SC (no tuning), a Vortech S/C (requires tunining), an ATI Procharger (requires tuning), or a Turbonetics Single Turbo (requires tuning), etc ( this is if all options are exhausted)

Any other ideas of lower cost modifications to get to a maximum of ~300RWHP? This is a real engineering challenge for the G35 or 350Z.

[Sentientbydesign]

Jacko,

I would highly suggest a lightened flywheel/clutch and those lightweight pulleys.

The combo should unleash a decent amount of acceleration. I can't guarantee that you'll reach your 300 rwhp threshold, but you should be able to feel the difference for a lot less money (around $1000-$1500).