New Subwoofer Installed.

[nimbyfaygo]

I have my Memphis LVS 18 installed finally. I also got the rear deck dynomatted.

The box for it took up most of the trunk, but it sounds excellent. I have two DB Drive 1500D amps powering the beast. I haven't mounted the amps yet, as this is just a test install. Step two is going to be a wiring upgrade.

[ceningolmo]

I have my Memphis LVS 18 installed finally. I also got the rear deck dynomatted...The box for it took up most of the trunk, but it sounds excellent.

Wow... umm... wow. That is a lot of sub for everyday use. Not my taste, but hopefully you like it!

Quote »I have two DB Drive 1500D amps powering the beast. I haven't mounted the amps yet, as this is just a test install. Step two is going to be a wiring upgrade. [/quote]I would hope so! Holy crap, man. That's not heavy enough wire to run your 6x9's, let alone that sub.

[TXCumtrensh]

Yeah, goodluck getting nice bass on quick songs! (techno, rock and roll) the bigger the woofer, the longer the recoil takes..

Then again with 3000W worth of power, that 18" woofer is going to kick... probably so hard that it will blow up the spare tire

[ceningolmo]

By the way... should have mentioned this before...

You may need to radius the edge of that huge port. You might not hear it with the port facing away from you, and all the way in the trunk...but, a sub of that size, powered that type of wattage, will make A LOT of air move. That much air being bushed through a tube with no radius on the end will very often have a resonent "sucking" sound.

Just a heads up.

[Jesda]

Thats not a sub. Thats a jackhammer.

[nimbyfaygo]

I would hope so! Holy crap, man. That's not heavy enough wire to run your 6x9's, let alone that sub.

LOL I'm referring to the wire that runs from the alt to the bat, and the engine/battery ground. I have dual 4 gauge cables running to the amps. I didn't really have enough room to run a single 0 gauge.

[nimbyfaygo]

By the way... should have mentioned this before...

You may need to radius the edge of that huge port. You might not hear it with the port facing away from you, and all the way in the trunk...but, a sub of that size, powered that type of wattage, will make A LOT of air move. That much air being bushed through a tube with no radius on the end will very often have a resonent "sucking" sound.

Just a heads up.

Nah, the first order port resonance is above 275hz. Its a 9in sonotube, its actually quite a bit thicker that it looks. There is a hint of wind noise when the sub excursion exceeds 2in, but you sure can't hear it in the car.

[ceningolmo]

Well.. you'd better upgrade that speaker wire as well. Otherwise you're wasting your amps.

Do you have a capacitor? If not, you're going to need one with that wattage and that size sub.

[elwesso]

and to think, most people think 18in WHEELS are overkill!

[nimbyfaygo]

Yeah, goodluck getting nice bass on quick songs! (techno, rock and roll) the bigger the woofer, the longer the recoil takes..

Then again with 3000W worth of power, that 18" woofer is going to kick... probably so hard that it will blow up the spare tire

There has been an ongoing argument about the different characteristics between small and large speakers.Considering that the subwoofer's SPL@1w/m is 92.3 db's, and a QTS of .55. Its not boomy and reasonably accurate in a 5cu box. At normal listening levels the cone is moving less than a 1/4in. That means that its putting out similar sound as a single 10 with 75% less cone movement. With less coil movement, the BL curve stays very flat. Producing virtually zero distortion.

[nimbyfaygo]

Well.. you'd better upgrade that speaker wire as well. Otherwise you're wasting your amps.

Do you have a capacitor? If not, you're going to need one with that wattage and that size sub.

I have a 300amp Batcap. If your not familiar with it, its basically a 12v drycell battery. Its about the size as a cordless drill battery. Its much better than a Cap IMO. I'm going to install better speaker cable, I just had that handy for the temp install. Besides it looks tacky with speaker wire just laying on top of the box.
Modified by nimbyfaygo at 8:56 PM 2/13/2007

[Dano]

Wow that's big!

-Dan

[mcrews]

Holy SXXT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

mark

[Skibane]

...and as a bonus, you can use the magnet to hold your tools, tire iron and jack...

[ScottJackson]

and when you drop a screw down into some tight place you can just pop the trunk, swipe your screwdriver over the magnet, and magnetize the screwdriver.... assuming that magnet isn't so powerful that it keeps you from lifting the trunk lid in the first place.

[nimbyfaygo]

and when you drop a screw down into some tight place you can just pop the trunk, swipe your screwdriver over the magnet, and magnetize the screwdriver.... assuming that magnet isn't so powerful that it keeps you from lifting the trunk lid in the first place.

Kinda funny you mention that. Before the sub, I could pop the trunk and it would raise about two inches by itself.Now I doesn't raise by itself at all.

[lino]

Nice dynamat job. The woofer....that's a huge bi*ch! Then again the Q's trunk is so small to begin with, why not make good use of it and turn it into a concert hall . You might need to dynamat the quarter panels and invest in ear plugs, that thing looks like it can kick! In the words of American boxing announcer Michael Buffer "Let's get ready to rumble!". I hope your alternator and battery setup is good and good luck! Keep is posted with your results.

[Rex]

Makes me think back to my CRX days ... I miss those days .

[heywier427]

nice install. did you make a custom box and use up the spare tire well as well?

any way word of advice

do not ever crank it up with out a window or the sun roof cracked a bit. it will break your back window!!! it happened to me.

the back window on the Q is not the regular safty glass. its more like a windshield with a layer of plastic. the preasure will cause it to crack at the glasses weakest point where ever that may be. mine was in the top left hand corner.

i did the same thing with the map box. what are you planing on covering the hole with.

i actually just took apart the mapbox and used the black frame to keep it looking stock. i used a good metal screen from a screen door from home depot and formed it to look like what the top of the mapbox looked like, then covered it with black speaker cloth. looks totally stock!

im also working on putting two red caps where the stock battery goes. i need to move the main fuse box just a little bit and theyll fit right in!

good luck

[CrimsonQ]

How the hell do you guys keep the 3rd Brake light housing from popping off? I have a small system compared to that and it pops loose all the time

btw thats a huge %^$#% sub man. your crazy lol

[Falkdesigns]

Wow that's big!

-Dan

^what he said!!!

[DuDro]

WOW!

Just curious...how much weight have you added to the rear of the car with the box, drivers, and electronics?

[redmanfx]

Holy cow! That's a monster for sure! Glad you like it. I hope you don't blow your window seals out and destroy your fuel pump and control unit with the bombardment they're going to get..

[Q_SHIP]

Must be worth it to you if you give up your trunk.

Do you think there is a possiablity of Fuel pump and or FPCU problems by vibrating them too much?

[nimbyfaygo]

Must be worth it to you if you give up your trunk.

Do you think there is a possiablity of Fuel pump and or FPCU problems by vibrating them too much?

I doubt it. In My truck, I have three 15in subwoofers, with 7500watts of power. I have never had a problem with anything electrical in it.

[nimbyfaygo]

nice install. did you make a custom box and use up the spare tire well as well?

any way word of advice

do not ever crank it up with out a window or the sun roof cracked a bit. it will break your back window!!! it happened to me.

the back window on the Q is not the regular safty glass. its more like a windshield with a layer of plastic. the preasure will cause it to crack at the glasses weakest point where ever that may be. mine was in the top left hand corner.

i did the same thing with the map box. what are you planing on covering the hole with.

i actually just took apart the mapbox and used the black frame to keep it looking stock. i used a good metal screen from a screen door from home depot and formed it to look like what the top of the mapbox looked like, then covered it with black speaker cloth. looks totally stock!

im also working on putting two red caps where the stock battery goes. i need to move the main fuse box just a little bit and theyll fit right in!

good luck

Actually I get more movement out of my body panels and glass with windows down. I really don't think that it will crack. I built the box so that it can slide in and out of the trunk pretty easily, that way if I get a flat I can pull the box out to get to the spare.

I'm going to cut out the main portion of the Map Lid and cover the whole thing with grille cloth. I think that I'm going to have to glue it down, it moves viciously. The whole rear shelf is a big problem area. I think that I'm going to stealthily screw it down in a couple of key points to help prevent rattle.

Preventing the trunk lid from flexing is a lost cause. Since the woofer is basically up firing the entire lid flexes close to a half inch. That may cause problems with the latching mechanism eventually.

[Q_SHIP]

I doubt it. In My truck, I have three 15in subwoofers, with 7500watts of power. I have never had a problem with anything electrical in it.

But you never had your setup literally right next to the FP and FPCU.

Just throwing it out there.

[nimbyfaygo]

But you never had your setup literally right next to the FP and FPCU.

Just throwing it out there.

Good point, I guess that I'll fine out eventually.

[heywier427]

to prevent the trunk from rattling some i siliconed the hell out of the bracing and tha worked pretty good. well youve got 3 15s so you know how to fix rattles i guess! also take off the trunk finishing panel and place a few sponges behind it the license plate as well.

[nimbyfaygo]

to prevent the trunk from rattling some i siliconed the hell out of the bracing and tha worked pretty good. well youve got 3 15s so you know how to fix rattles i guess! also take off the trunk finishing panel and place a few sponges behind it the license plate as well.

I like the sponge idea, I usually stick foam rubber blocks under things. I still have a lot of work to do before I can say that the system is finished. I need dynomat in several locations and I need to figure out what the HUGE rattle coming from under the car is. (its not the license plate)I'm pretty picky when it comes to my audio systems. I've been doing installs for going on 9 years. I'll be getting the alternator rewound at a local shop, and I'll be getting a second battery for rear. Its pretty insane the amount of voltage drop I'm getting, I'm being careful with the volume knob, only cranking it for short periods of time. I don't want to mess up any electronics by starving them.

Also can anyone tell me the factory amperage output for the stock alt on a 94? Its seems real low, especially at idle. I have a clamp on current gauge, but its at my dads house.