New Q45 rotors Needed OEM , Slot, CrossDrilled, Slot & CrossDrilled ??

[GreenQ45a]

I was gonna get new rotors for my cars Xmas gift this year.

I'm sick of my rotors.

I just did the brakes my car of course cut the rotors and not even 1 week later the front rotors are showing lots of small groves.

Braking power is not consistant and it glazes to often.

The pads are OEM and I think the rotors are too.

I have a few questions.

I have read many posts about upgrading to Skyline, Bremo or 300ZX systems but...

Other sites say the Q45 Sumo's are an upgrade to the 300ZX systems.

All of those systems require a 16in+ wheel (Right?)

Q45Tech and the gents talked me out of trading up my stock 15in BBS's(for now)

Cross Drilled cool faster (good) and are not as heavy (not always a plus).

I heard that slotted rotors are not needed if your not on the track because all they do is cut off a thin layer of the pads to remove glazing. ?? But they look cool

And are the stock brake calipers any good?

I find it hard to beleave Infiniti would cheese out on the breaks.But they seem a little ??? to me.

I would like to go with a Xdrilled\slotted set.or would money be better spent on new caliper's?

Is there a rebuild kit for the Sumo stock brake caliper?

Was gonna do a SS line kit too but I didnt want to kill these rotors.

Any input?

[Q45tech]

More important than holes or slots is the QUALITY of the grey cast iron the rotors are made from, then of course the internal fin design and fin rotational balance.......also the heat dam design from the rotor surface to the mounting hat is critical...........in most cases the oem rotor will be better than almost anything you can buy in the after market...........at best PowerStops are the functional equivalent.

Lots of cheaply made expensive looking junk available even that made by major BRANDS.

Unless you cut the rotors open [or xray them] you never see the bad casting/flashings inside.

[PoorManQ45]

Dennis: I read somewhere that Crossed-Drilled and/or Slotted rotors are Only intended to clean the pad off. They are not designed to increase cooling. <- Is this true?

[GreenQ45a]

If this set of OEM rotors is what Infiniti says is Q45 worthy I dont agree.

I would be willing to blame the ware on the calipers.

These rotors should not need to be recut after less then a month.

My maxima used the same set of Cross Drilled for 2 years and never needed to be cut. No warping no glazing.

I know the Maxi was lighter but the brakes were 3X Better than my 93 Q or my 94 Q45a. I will post a pic in a few hours.

[maxnix]

If this set of OEM rotors is what Infiniti says is Q45 worthy I dont agree.

These rotors should not need to be recut after less then a month.

Are your hubs in spec? Very little over OEM specified variance can incur rapid degradation of rotor performance.

[PoorManQ45]

I would be willing to blame the ware on the calipers.

These rotors should not need to be recut after less then a month.

My maxima used the same set of Cross Drilled for 2 years and never needed to be cut. No warping no glazing.

It could be the Type of pad that you are using. Are you using the same type on both your Maxima and your Q?

Are you looking for increased brake performance, meaning decreased stopping distance?

If so, I don't think that changing the caliper will do much if anything at all. We have talked about upgrading to Calipers with larger pistons and/or Multi-Pistons. It seems that just changing the Caliper will not do much.

I've been reading on this subject, and it seems that to greatly decrease your stopping distance, you are going to have to change the Valves in the Master cylinder. I can't remember if they need to be larger or smaller. IIRC, changing the Valve(s) will increase the Hydraulic pressure.

About the rotors: Have you actually tried replacing them? It is possible that you may have gotten defective rotors. Even though the probability of this is low, it is possible.

[Q45tech]

Another Goldilocks situation with oem rotors..............they are too small and too thin for the Q weight ! But they are of the best grade of cast iron and the best design for that size.

My point was if you are warping oem rotors you will warp any aftermarket design in the same or less time.........drilled, sloted or both.

If you score oem rotors with harder than oem pads or from road dirt getting lodged inthe pad you will score aftermarket rotors.

I have changed rotors every 40,000 miles after an intial 20,000 miles so that makes 8 sets and am ready for the 9th now at 270,000 miles.Plus all the hubs and wheel bearings were changed around 130-140k.

[pito11213]

Well Tech in relation to the rotors I am asking about info about any improvements. I have not warped my rotors and they work good even though I know I need to do the front brake pads.

But is there nothing to be gained from using drilled or slotted? Is there some sort of a performance enhancement?

Basically if there is a brake improvement or street performance upgrade what would you recommend to the financially challenged. I am not saying what is the cheapest garbadge, but what is more cost effective in comparison to simply keeping the car OEM.

[Q45tech]

I like the Power Stop front drilled rotors, they seem the equal and in some ways better than oem.........especially when you consider they last thru 2 sets of pads and can tolerate the every 6-7,000 mile retureing required.

I have never seen a 90-01 Q45 that doesn't warp rotors, just many owners who are so insenstive that they don't feel the quiver in the steering wheel at 60-70 mph. By the time you feel it in the pedal they are way beyond warped.

Ocassionally I true other peoples rotors........many times I have to cut 15-20 thousandths when the spec is less than 3. They just put it off till it was unbearable.....till the car hopped a lane when the brakes are applied.

I don't know any cheap solution to fitting thicker heavier rotors as you would need at least 32 mm [vs our 28mm] to make a serious improvement. A custom rotor would have to be designed and built........a partial fix for the rear is to fit J30 rear caliper and rotors, which are used on the 97-05 Q45.

Of course the fastest wearing dustiest pads protect the rotors some what.

[GreenQ45a]

I live in the mountains of NM just above Albuquerque.I drive 25 Miles down the mountian and 25 back up every day.The pads just glaze to easy. I don't care about the cost of pads or cutting rotors. There nothing compaired to the price of another Q45a.

I just want my brakes to match the rest of the Q's quality. And to bring Cindy,Xavier, and myself home safe and sound.

The pads I had on the Maxima Autozone not the Top of the line nor the bottom.

My 94 Q45a's pads are from Infiniti.My 93 Q45 had OEM pads its brakes felt the same as the 94.

Q45Tech:

Do you have OEM rotors on your Q?

OEM Pads?

Are you saying the J30 had a better brake setup in the rear?

My E-brake pads need replacing.

Are they an "Infiniti only" part?

Thanks--

GreenQ45a

[AlabamaDan]

Ah! Just the subject I've been looking for. So, where were we? In case you haven't seen my other thread, I've gotta replace the rear rotors on my Q before I can drive it again. For the time being it's on the stands in the garage.

Dennis are you saying that instead of ordering Q45 rear rotors I should consider J30 rear rotors? If you've been changing your pads/rotors so often over the years which do you have?

I'm trying to decided whether or not to order OEM or some fancy smancy cross drilled slotted rotors from an aftermarket source.

My right rear pads weren't changed the last time the pads were changed and ruined the rear rotor. The left side looks fine, the pads really don't even have to be replaced, but since they come as a set and I know the ones on there were aftermarket.... Will I notice the difference if I only replace one of the rotors?

So my questions are: OEM or aftermarket? Both sides or just the worn side? New Rotors or rotors from a Q being parted out such as Wes's?

Please let me know something because I'm driving my hunting truck, 1983 GMC S15. Nothing makes you appreciate your classic Infiniti like a junker truck.

[maxnix]

I live in the mountains of NM just above Albuquerque.I drive 25 Miles down the mountian and 25 back up every day.The pads just glaze to easy. I don't care about the cost of pads or cutting rotors.

This routine might be why. You probably never got the brakes to seat properly (300 miles of non-severe application after initial OEM cycling) since you came down the mountain the day after you installed them, I bet.

You may want to change to a harder pad (won't necessarily cure your break-in problem) like Axis Metal Master since your brakes will be warmed by descent each day. Flush and replace with DOT 4 (I like ATE blue) fluid. Rear J30 rotors, calipers and brackets may be of some benefit in your situation. Joe can get both with the Stillen Brembo rotors.

[GreenQ45a]

I never thought of the drive down the mountian being an issue.(Thats one reason I love this site.)

It never affected the Maxima but the Maxima was only like 2,600 vs.4,000.

I still will need to replace the rotors in the next few months.Now we need to know Xdrilled, Slotted, both or OEM?

I don't think I want to throw any money to my local dealer.

"Joe can get both with the Stillen Brembo rotors."Is that front and rear?I wonder what Joe would charge.

I think one of us should check out a pair or Xdrilled.

[maxnix]

"Joe can get both with the Stillen Brembo rotors."Is that front and rear?I wonder what Joe would charge.

I think one of us should check out a pair or Xdrilled.

Yes, including the Stillen J30 rear and associated hardware.

I have them on the front of my Austin Q45 with OEM pads.

Call Joe. Or Greg for that matter. He has a nice kit also.

[AZhitman]

I have the SP Performance rotors (made in Italy, not China or Taiwan) in drilled, slotted or both. They're not the cheapest thing on the market, but they're very impressive. OEM thickness and weight, orders take approx 14 days to arrive (so if time is an issue, buy elsewhere).

I'd recommend the Hawk pads (which I can also get for you), or if you're looking for a cheaper alternative, the MetalMasters.

Also, the SS lines and ATE Super Blue fluid are a nice (and inexpensive) upgrade (which I carry as well).

[maxnix]

Yeah, never go cheap on the brakes on a Q45 especially. Brakes and tires is what defines most of the car's control envelope.

[GreenQ45a]

I agree with the brake and tire statment.

---------------

AZ,

Do you have any of these parts installed in your Q?If so, do you have pictures?How much are we talking each?

SS lines=

Blue ATE=

Speed bleeders=

and XDrilled rotors (need the fronts first.)=

[Q45tech]

What version of oem front pads are you using. Dealers stock different pads [and don't know what each pad does and neither do I perfectly] there have been: -U90,91, 92,93 and then pads for the 94-96Q ......the rears are all the same -U85

Some of the pads have FE codes [on rear backing plate] and some have FF.

Axxis Metal Masters are cheap [from World Pack wholesale] like $38 a set vs oem from Joe ~~$60.

Try the Axxis Ultimates from Tirerack or who ever if your rotors go above 700F.

Most brake problems are from stuck caliper pins, improper insulative shim, caliper seals and not changing out brake fluid immediately after it boils once! Always supply your own brand new bottle/bottles of brake fluid....dealerships may use cheap generic and leave the bottle open till used up...........all it takes is a single day to ruin the remainder.

[AlabamaDan]

Try the Axxis Ultimates from Tirerack or who ever if your rotors go above 700F.

How do you measure how hot your rotors get?

Quote »Most brake problems are from ... not changing out brake fluid immediately after it boils once! [/quote]Brake fluid boils? How do you drain/flush the brake fluid to replace it?

Quote » Always supply your own brand...of brake fluid....[/quote]What do you recommend? I normally drive in stop and go traffic for about 30 mins in the afternoon and the morning. Weather here in Birmingham is about like Atlanta. I do go up and down a couple of hills, but I don't ride the brakes.

[AZhitman]

Wow!

Lots of questions to answer.

I have the SS lines, the ATE Super Blue fluid, the speedbleeders, Hawk pads, and (for now) non-drilled/slotted rotors all installed on my Q. Love the setup, and for those of you who have ridden with me, I USE my brakes.

(switching out to some slotted rotors in a week or so).

Pictures? No need, you don't do perfomance brake stuff for looks.

Brake fluid not only degrades due to boiling (which happens easier than you think with the crap fluids in 99% of cars) but it also absorbs water from the atmosphere. As Dennis said, once you open a bottle of fluid, it must be used or discarded.

For those of you who haven't fully changed your brake fluid in the past year, SHAME SHAME. The water absorbed by the fluid slowly corrodes the inside of the braking system, and there are some tiny orifices therein that should never see corrosion. I have seen brake fluid the color of transmission fluid (remember, it should be CLEAR).

Changing out / flushing your brake system is very easy with the speedbleeders, they replace the factory bleeder valves on your calipers. Takes about 30 minutes, you'll need a helper to press the brake pedal (repeatedly).

I believe the whole shebang (4 sets of pads, fluid, 4 rotors, 4 speedbleeders and 4 SS lines) will run you $550 (hope I'm remembering my pricing correctly).

Good brake stuff is not cheap, but done properly will save $ in the long run.

In the interest of full disclosure, my price on this stuff is roughly $100 off retail pricing for the whole package.

[PoorManQ45]

Good brake stuff is not cheap, but done properly will save $ in the long run.

Um..... I think you're forgetting what I replaced my brakes with. Even if my brakes are not as good as OEM (Can't tell the difference), I can replace them for FREE. That's the glory of Autozone's Lifetime warranty.

I have the SP Performance rotors (made in Italy, not China or Taiwan) in drilled, slotted or both.

Um..... are you saying that there is something wrong with stuff made in China?

[AlabamaDan]

Do you also need to flush the brake system when you change the fluid?

That stuff's clear? :p

[Q45tech]

99% of our Q customers even after oem pads and rotors are not up to brand new as delivered because we must just quote what the dealers do to be price competitive. Most people won't pay for a full fluid exchange nor indexing the rotors nor shim replacement nor new non leaking brake lines nor a new non leaking master cylinder nor caliper seal rebuilds and polishing the bores and pistons.

Then there are the tires, few will tolerate oem soft fast wearing compounds [which are impossible to buy now]. Same with oem replacement pads........long ago Infiniti dropped the extremely dusty fast wearing pads........-U90 for the longer lasting less dusty pads in use today.

If the new 90Q stopped in 129 feet would 150-155 feet from 60 mph satisfy most?

[PoorManQ45]

If the new 90Q stopped in 129 feet would 150-155 feet from 60 mph satisfy most?

Most people would not notice a 60-0 change. I don't think many people go around driving at 60MPH and then slam on the brakes and come to a complete stop. Usually, minor changes are made, say 60 to 45 MPH.

Dennis: What is the change in distance vs time between OEM brakes and aftermarket Brakes when accelerating from 60 to 45 mph? Is it even possible to measure this?

[qship96]

tell that to the person or animal you hit.

[szh]

Um..... are you saying that there is something wrong with stuff made in China?

Yes! They are not as heavy (poor quality cast iron material) and do not handle heat well. They are more likely to crack or "warp". IMHO, this would be a classic case of "penny-wise, pound-foolish" if you do not choose to use good rotors and good pads and keep your brake system in proper working order. Proper braking can make the difference between a minor and major accident.

An essential point is that the tires probably have more of an effect on braking performance (stopping distance, etc.) than any pad quality or rotor diameter or drilled vs. slotted factor. Get the stickiest tire possible if you want the shortest distances - as long as the rest of the braking system is working as intended (no sticking calipers, no fluid leaks, no over-boiled fluid, etc.) even with cheapo rotors and pads.

A side note: many (not all, of course) "rotor warping early" stories can be attributed to improper early break-in of pads, that leaves pad material "clumped" on the rotor surface and hence causes "vibration" when braking.

I am generalizing a bit, but this is all stuff that you can find in earlier posts from a lot of people here (including Q45tech.)

Z

[GreenQ45a]

I believe the whole shebang (4 sets of pads, fluid, 4 rotors, 4 speedbleeders and 4 SS lines) will run you $550 (hope I'm remembering my pricing correctly).

AZ does that include crossed and slotted?

[maxnix]

Most people would not notice a 60-0 change. I don't think many people go around driving at 60MPH and then slam on the brakes and come to a complete stop.

Dennis: What is the change in distance vs time between OEM brakes and aftermarket Brakes when accelerating from 60 to 45 mph? Is it even possible to measure this?

Most people would notice when they hit something!

Do you not drive on freeways?

One must decelerate when slowing.

Yes, it can be quantified. The question is, what are the necessary controls and methodology in the experimental design to achieve repeatability and meaningful data?

[AZhitman]

Green - Yes, I believe so.

If you'd like, I can get you an exact quote on a package.

I won't even address the discussion of 129-foot stopping distance vs. 150+ feet. It's irresposible and foolish to compromise on such matters, and as far as I'm concerned, it's WELL worth the extra ten cents per day to know I have the absolute BEST-performing brakes (tires, rotors, pads, fluid, lines) that I can possibly have (within reason).

Remember, stopping in 150+ feet when you needed to stop in 129 feet means you just punched a 21-foot long hole (with a 4200-lb car) through a vehicle carrying someone's loved one.

Not something I want to EVER contend with.

I can always make a few extra bucks. I can't reverse the consequences of simple physics.

[AZhitman]

BTW, here are some stopping distances (suprising) of some various cars for comparison:

Ferrari F355 - 112ftG35 sedan - 112 ftMitsu EVO - 113 ftthe JIC 350Z - 98 ftFord Police Interceptor - 161 ft

I tested the Q last summer on sticky 255/50ZR16's and averaged 131 ft 60-0. First 3 or 4 stops were pretty consistent, after that the fade was noticeable and resulted in warped front rotors (OEM, resurfaced once). Also changed the pads and fluid afterwards, as I felt both had been compromised.

Not bad for a 10-year old car.