BigDankCloud wrote:How many of you have changed the timing parameters (advanced to +2). Have any of you experienced engine problems? Heard knocking noises? Anything weird at all?

Advanced +2 and no problems at all. Running mid grade 87 octane.

rjdmmfl1 wrote:
changed to +2 on mine, no engine knock... running 91 octane.. (hard to find anything more in San diego)

im not sure if this has been discussed yet if so im sorry

but can anybody give me the quick and dirty as to what advancing the timing does?

pros? cons?

dldjros69 wrote:
im not sure if this has been discussed yet if so im sorry

but can anybody give me the quick and dirty as to what advancing the timing does?

pros? cons?

A 2 degree advance means that the spark will occur 2 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). Ideally, this means that the flame front and corresponding gas expansion will occur earlier as the piston is on it's downward travel. Which will entail more torque and HP.

Think of it like bicycle pedals. On a normal basis, your foot pushes down on the pedal at (just a guess) 40 degrees after TDC. Optimal power is obtained by pushing down at 35 degrees (again, just a random guess). So advancing the spark is like your brain shooting a synapse (hope that's the right term) and your foot pushing down 2 degrees sooner.

The upside is more power and theoretically better fuel economy. The down side is if the fuel combusts TOO early. This would be like pushing down on the pedal with all your weight when it's at TDC or slightly thereafter. In which case you get knock which can potentially damage your car.

Your knock sensors and ECU will defeat the 2 degree advance if you encounter knock though, so it's not too big an issue.

Cylinder temperature and the octane rating of the gas will dictate if the advance will work or not.

Still pretty complicated but that helped.

2 degrees doesnt seem that radical

so advancing the timing and the premium tune are 2 different things?

Any installation pics? Specifically routing the power wire through the firewall (is this necessary for 3.5 Altima) and where it attaches to the fuse box.

And any cool mount place ideas...

can someone take a quick video of this

fedex made a mistake on my estimated time of delivery, they said today, but now it says tomorrow, but when i first got the tracking info, it said friday, so i am confused. i know it is in new jersey and if it leaves tonight i know i will be getting them tomorrow early because thats what happened with my headers.

Sentientbydesign wrote:Everybody write down his security code!!! hahaha

We blur out license plate info, but not CC security codes

HAHAHA joke would be on you

It's an expired gift card that looks like a cc I used it for years to break into my old apt....that's why it looks like crap.

I've decided to wait till this weekend to install it. It's going to be raining here for the next 2 days and today I tried to go out but when I finally found a road, the bottom fell out and was barely able to see the road(wasn't raining when I got there go figure).

Sentientbydesign wrote:
A 2 degree advance means that the spark will occur 2 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). Ideally, this means that the flame front and corresponding gas expansion will occur earlier as the piston is on it's downward travel. Which will entail more torque and HP.

Think of it like bicycle pedals. On a normal basis, your foot pushes down on the pedal at (just a guess) 40 degrees after TDC. Optimal power is obtained by pushing down at 35 degrees (again, just a random guess). So advancing the spark is like your brain shooting a synapse (hope that's the right term) and your foot pushing down 2 degrees sooner.

The upside is more power and theoretically better fuel economy. The down side is if the fuel combusts TOO early. This would be like pushing down on the pedal with all your weight when it's at TDC or slightly thereafter. In which case you get knock which can potentially damage your car.

Your knock sensors and ECU will defeat the 2 degree advance if you encounter knock though, so it's not too big an issue.

Cylinder temperature and the octane rating of the gas will dictate if the advance will work or not.

Would using Sunoco's Ultra 93 Octane be better than 91 Premium?

BrianAdams03 wrote:
HAHAHA joke would be on you

It's an expired gift card that looks like a cc I used it for years to break into my old apt....that's why it looks like crap.

I've decided to wait till this weekend to install it. It's going to be raining here for the next 2 days and today I tried to go out but when I finally found a road, the bottom fell out and was barely able to see the road(wasn't raining when I got there go figure).

or maybe you want us to think that its just a gift card....................

Importroller wrote:i didn't read every post, but did any of you install it on a manual yet?

Honestly! We need someone with the 6-speed to step up to show what this thing can really do. Not to knock on the CVT guys.

I'm mostly interested in what this "Premium tune" does. Has anyone noticed richer or leaner A/F ratios across the power band? the VQ runs pig rich anywhere near redline. One of the Technosquare reflash modifications is to adjust the A/F ratio so you make more power up top.

If you run 93 octane than you're ahead of the game. All I ever put in my car is 93 we barely even have stations offering 91. Its either 87 89 or 93

I got a 6spd but i'm still waiting for it to be shipped lol

Dest556 wrote:I had no problems getting it to work with my car. I plugged it in and then set it to Nissan 2007.5-2008 and it recognized the car just fine.

If we have a 2007 Maxima, how do we know if it should be 2007.5-2008 or the 2004-2007.5 setting?

Also, aren't the 2007 Altima and Maxima different (altima has more HP)? I don't see how they have 1 setting for all Nissans.
Modified by grv575 at 12:12 AM 7/30/2009

Initial impressions.

Installation:Plugging into the fuse box (I used the driver side in-cabin fuse box) wasn't too painful. The suction cup mount is very strong (the unit won't fall off).

*Make sure to set your headlights to OFF and not AUTO* before doing the tune. Otherwise you'll get a too much load on the battery and be mystified why it won't work

Your car will make loud noises (engine & engine fan) while it downloads - seems to be normal (at least mine did). Download is fairly quick. The final screen says to turn the ignition to RUN. I think it should have said start the car (which worked - I started it here, it got further, waited, waited, nothing, then put the ignition back to ON and it finished).

Oh they definitely should have used less tacky glue to secure the SD card to the packaging. Man was it hard to remove that junk so the SD would fit in the unit.

Initial impressions:I set +2 degrees, +250 idle, premium tune. Running 92 octane. 07 3.5 CVT Maxima.

Butt dyno definitely was impressed. Has more kick off the line and in low "gears".

One thing that seemed odd though was the car before the tune usually revved up to 2500 or 3500 depending on how much throttle you gave it. With the tune, it seems to stay around 1500 normally (used to stay around 1900-2000 with normal cruising) and I could not get it to go over 2450 RPMs even with 50% WOT (idle is 17% WOT and giving it a decent amount of gas is only ~25% WOT). Well when I got back I could get it to 5000 RPM in neutral but I'm not sure if that counts. I feel I need to take it to a track to verify this though. Could it be the knock sensor kicking in and limited the RPMs of the car?

Also, anyone have advice on whether to set the idle 250 RPM higher or not? Pros/cons?

Overall I'm very happy with the unit. Definitely worth the 3 bills.

nice man, glad to see you like it

i should be receiving mine any hour, it said it is out for delivery, so i will probably be standing by my front door all day!!!!

I've had my Bully Dog PowerPup for months now, and love it. No complaints what's so ever

Hey guys,

What fuse are you connecting the GT to?

just received it like 2 seconds ago

YESSS!!!!

yeah i am stuck at where to plug in the fuse wire. where in the fuse box did you plug in the fuse because i have no idea where and i am scared to just put it anywhere

jlmedrano_1985 wrote:Hey guys,

What fuse are you connecting the GT to?

I used the ACC fuse above the audio fuse on the right side of the fuse panel

how did you plug in though im scared to touch it

just need directions

sorry for the multiple postings, but im still stuck at this part

i know that when my neighbor wired up my audi lights, he installed it into the drive side-in cabin fuse box, but he took a 10a fuse and plugged it in with the positive wire running from the switch slid underneath it so it would get power.

what i want to know is do i need a 10a fuse to do this, or is there a simpler way and if so, could i get a step by step on doing this, i was planning on doing a review, but if i can't get this part, how reliable is my review going to be lol

***ok so i found a fuse that was labeled (Spare) so i just used that, let's see what happens***
Modified by crayzitalian3 at 7:47 AM 7/30/2009

crayzitalian3 wrote:sorry for the multiple postings, but im still stuck at this part

i know that when my neighbor wired up my audi lights, he installed it into the drive side-in cabin fuse box, but he took a 10a fuse and plugged it in with the positive wire running from the switch slid underneath it so it would get power.

what i want to know is do i need a 10a fuse to do this, or is there a simpler way and if so, could i get a step by step on doing this, i was planning on doing a review, but if i can't get this part, how reliable is my review going to be lol

***ok so i found a fuse that was labeled (Spare) so i just used that, let's see what happens***

Modified by crayzitalian3 at 7:41 AM 7/30/2009

I was about to tell you, there was something in the instructions with "Connect the power source to xxx fuse" But i don't remember which one. And i think all you have to do is have the exposed wire on the power line hit the metal part of the fuse and it should work. But not 100% positive on that.

the spare fuse worked. but now when i go to turn it on, it says to insert the memory thing, but when i plug it in and press up it says it isn't working, so what the heck do i do?!!??!

crayzitalian3 wrote:the spare fuse worked. but now when i go to turn it on, it says to insert the memory thing, but when i plug it in and press up it says it isn't working, so what the heck do i do?!!??!

Call bullydog. Seems like they have pretty good tech support so I'm sure they can help you out rather than one of us giving you false information and screwing up your ECU.

As for connecting to the fuse, I stopped by Radio Shack yesterday and picked up these. They should make it a tad easier.

got it to 98% then threw a code, so we are tryin to fix it, me and the bullydog agent, his name is gary he is a great guy

I just got mine like 30 minutes ago!! I've hooked it all up and everything installed just fine. Did a premium tune and am about to take it out for a spin.

A few quick notes before I do, though:

1. I don't know if anyone saw in the manual, but there's a switch on the OBD2 connector that allows you to choose to power the unit through the OBD2 port, rather than the power cord. I tried it and it worked just fine. So, no need to tap into any fuses!

2. The cable between the unit and the OBD2 connector is actually HDMI, lol. So.. if for whatever reason the cable that comes with it isn't long enough (or is too long), I'd imagine you can use any other HDMI cable..

I'll let you know my first impressions in a bit when I get back!

nurseryboy wrote:I just got mine like 30 minutes ago!! I've hooked it all up and everything installed just fine. Did a premium tune and am about to take it out for a spin.

A few quick notes before I do, though:

1. I don't know if anyone saw in the manual, but there's a switch on the OBD2 connector that allows you to choose to power the unit through the OBD2 port, rather than the power cord. I tried it and it worked just fine. So, no need to tap into any fuses!

2. The cable between the unit and the OBD2 connector is actually HDMI, lol. So.. if for whatever reason the cable that comes with it isn't long enough (or is too long), I'd imagine you can use any other HDMI cable..

I'll let you know my first impressions in a bit when I get back!

yep, it seems like all of the folks that have had installation issued with this or the power pup have the 2.5... the 3.5 seems to be accepting the download without any issues!

awesome, great responses guys this will def be my next mod

nurseryboy wrote:1. I don't know if anyone saw in the manual, but there's a switch on the OBD2 connector that allows you to choose to power the unit through the OBD2 port, rather than the power cord. I tried it and it worked just fine. So, no need to tap into any fuses!

Ehh.. Bummer.. It does power the unit with that switch, but the unit won't shut off when the car does. Guess I do have to tap-that-fuse

First driving impressions:

I went about 5 miles down the road and back, making a few adjustments along the way. I started out with the premium tune and no rev-limiter or timing adjustments. First thing I noticed is that the shifts aren't nearly as smooth in Manual Mode as before. It "lurches" ahead each shift, but not in a bad way. It feels more like a manual in that it pushes you back in the seat more when it shifts (before shifts were quite smooth).

I do feel a difference in power too. Couldn't say how much (it's really hard for me to judge with the CVT), but it feels comparable to when the Y-Pipe was installed.

I also fooled around with the timing some. I started out with no adjustments, but then went to +1, and it seemed good, so I went to +2. At +2 it wouldn't let me hit redline anymore (seemed to max out around 5.5k RPM's). I like taking it all the way up, so I went back to +1 and it seems ok. It still doesn't seem to wind-up all the way like with it off, but I *think* it's faster with it. I'll have to do some more driving with it on and off to see if it's really worth it or not.

So, overall I'm really happy with it so far. I'll let you guys know if I run into any issues with actually installing it now.