Advanced +2 and no problems at all. Running mid grade 87 octane.BigDankCloud wrote:How many of you have changed the timing parameters (advanced to +2). Have any of you experienced engine problems? Heard knocking noises? Anything weird at all?
Advanced +2 and no problems at all. Running mid grade 87 octane.BigDankCloud wrote:How many of you have changed the timing parameters (advanced to +2). Have any of you experienced engine problems? Heard knocking noises? Anything weird at all?
im not sure if this has been discussed yet if so im sorryrjdmmfl1 wrote:
changed to +2 on mine, no engine knock... running 91 octane.. (hard to find anything more in San diego)
A 2 degree advance means that the spark will occur 2 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). Ideally, this means that the flame front and corresponding gas expansion will occur earlier as the piston is on it's downward travel. Which will entail more torque and HP.dldjros69 wrote:
im not sure if this has been discussed yet if so im sorry
but can anybody give me the quick and dirty as to what advancing the timing does?
pros? cons?
HAHAHA joke would be on youSentientbydesign wrote:Everybody write down his security code!!! hahaha
We blur out license plate info, but not CC security codes
Would using Sunoco's Ultra 93 Octane be better than 91 Premium?Sentientbydesign wrote:
A 2 degree advance means that the spark will occur 2 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). Ideally, this means that the flame front and corresponding gas expansion will occur earlier as the piston is on it's downward travel. Which will entail more torque and HP.
Think of it like bicycle pedals. On a normal basis, your foot pushes down on the pedal at (just a guess) 40 degrees after TDC. Optimal power is obtained by pushing down at 35 degrees (again, just a random guess). So advancing the spark is like your brain shooting a synapse (hope that's the right term) and your foot pushing down 2 degrees sooner.
The upside is more power and theoretically better fuel economy. The down side is if the fuel combusts TOO early. This would be like pushing down on the pedal with all your weight when it's at TDC or slightly thereafter. In which case you get knock which can potentially damage your car.
Your knock sensors and ECU will defeat the 2 degree advance if you encounter knock though, so it's not too big an issue.
Cylinder temperature and the octane rating of the gas will dictate if the advance will work or not.
or maybe you want us to think that its just a gift card....................BrianAdams03 wrote:
HAHAHA joke would be on you
It's an expired gift card that looks like a cc I used it for years to break into my old apt....that's why it looks like crap.
I've decided to wait till this weekend to install it. It's going to be raining here for the next 2 days and today I tried to go out but when I finally found a road, the bottom fell out and was barely able to see the road(wasn't raining when I got there go figure).
Honestly! We need someone with the 6-speed to step up to show what this thing can really do. Not to knock on the CVT guys.Importroller wrote:i didn't read every post, but did any of you install it on a manual yet?
If we have a 2007 Maxima, how do we know if it should be 2007.5-2008 or the 2004-2007.5 setting?Dest556 wrote:I had no problems getting it to work with my car. I plugged it in and then set it to Nissan 2007.5-2008 and it recognized the car just fine.
I used the ACC fuse above the audio fuse on the right side of the fuse paneljlmedrano_1985 wrote:Hey guys,
What fuse are you connecting the GT to?
I was about to tell you, there was something in the instructions with "Connect the power source to xxx fuse" But i don't remember which one. And i think all you have to do is have the exposed wire on the power line hit the metal part of the fuse and it should work. But not 100% positive on that.crayzitalian3 wrote:sorry for the multiple postings, but im still stuck at this part
i know that when my neighbor wired up my audi lights, he installed it into the drive side-in cabin fuse box, but he took a 10a fuse and plugged it in with the positive wire running from the switch slid underneath it so it would get power.
what i want to know is do i need a 10a fuse to do this, or is there a simpler way and if so, could i get a step by step on doing this, i was planning on doing a review, but if i can't get this part, how reliable is my review going to be lol
***ok so i found a fuse that was labeled (Spare) so i just used that, let's see what happens***
Modified by crayzitalian3 at 7:41 AM 7/30/2009
Call bullydog. Seems like they have pretty good tech support so I'm sure they can help you out rather than one of us giving you false information and screwing up your ECU.crayzitalian3 wrote:the spare fuse worked. but now when i go to turn it on, it says to insert the memory thing, but when i plug it in and press up it says it isn't working, so what the heck do i do?!!??!
yep, it seems like all of the folks that have had installation issued with this or the power pup have the 2.5... the 3.5 seems to be accepting the download without any issues!nurseryboy wrote:I just got mine like 30 minutes ago!! I've hooked it all up and everything installed just fine. Did a premium tune and am about to take it out for a spin.
A few quick notes before I do, though:
1. I don't know if anyone saw in the manual, but there's a switch on the OBD2 connector that allows you to choose to power the unit through the OBD2 port, rather than the power cord. I tried it and it worked just fine. So, no need to tap into any fuses!
2. The cable between the unit and the OBD2 connector is actually HDMI, lol. So.. if for whatever reason the cable that comes with it isn't long enough (or is too long), I'd imagine you can use any other HDMI cable..
I'll let you know my first impressions in a bit when I get back!
Ehh.. Bummer.. It does power the unit with that switch, but the unit won't shut off when the car does. Guess I do have to tap-that-fusenurseryboy wrote:1. I don't know if anyone saw in the manual, but there's a switch on the OBD2 connector that allows you to choose to power the unit through the OBD2 port, rather than the power cord. I tried it and it worked just fine. So, no need to tap into any fuses!