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Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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8ggalant
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Car: nissan cefiro

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Well i intalled my catback today...apexi n1 dual w/ no silencers...i love it...anyway...we warmed the car up then took it out for test drive...drove a mile or so and turned around to come home. I decided to take a "short cut" so i after playing w/ her for few minutes i was goin to head home...@ the stop sign down the street from the parking lot where i was playing the car stalled...ok...started her and go down teh street, now the revs are strange (sputtering from 1800 or so 20 2400 (pretty much soon as boost comes on) and the tach is "jumping" spuratically throught the rpm band....continue normal driving and that stops. As soon as i get on her again (took it back to full boost once) the same things starts all over. And my funky idle is back....NOW....i was thinking intercooler piping, and maybe it may have a TINY bit to do w/ me having no filter on my maf "ducks"-bought the car that way....so other than remedying the two..do you all have any ideas...does anyone know of a maf adapter for the ca maf so i can put a filter on it....this all started after i installed the exhaust and the car was fine be4 so im thinking it has to do w/ the maf...any thoughts??...help is greatly appreciated

car was fine be4 i installed the exhaust

(btw comp check and leak down test were good :P if anyone was wondering)


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biosehnsucht
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I would guess any MAF adapter for a 240SX would work, as long as it really fits (tried a cheap one from autozone, in the ricer section, didn't fit at all, instead of slotting the 'chromed' plastic to fit I just took it back and ordered a real one online)

WeldingHank
Posts: 559
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2004 8:07 am
Car: 1989 240sx CA18DET

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no filter on the MAF is bad. you want smooth airflow through the maf or the readings get all screwy.

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rico05
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Car: 1992 RMS13 w/ CA18DET
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My car did that the first time we fired it up. By buddy put his hand over the MAF and it went away. I tried to drive it w/o a filter and the clutch fan makes the MAF see all screwy under load.

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f s t caz
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Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2003 10:08 am
Car: VG30ET D21 Extended Cab Pickup

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checking for codes stored in the ECU would be a good place to start. not every code is going to create a MIL condition, so you could have one or a few that your car doesn't feel like bringing to your attention. They'll point you in the right direction.

a filter is a very good idea. A bracket to secure the filter/maf is also a very good idea. The MAF can be sensitive to vibrations and therefore doesn't really like moving around a whole lot. It's one reason why late model SE-R's dont like CAI very much. Brace it, keep it from moving around, check the connection to it - dielectric the connection. While you're at it, you might want to look over the rest of the wiring for the swap, more specifically where the harness was spliced.

i think the fact that you're encountering problems after installing the exhaust is entirely coincidental, unless you are experiencing boost spikes as a result which could cause the intake piping to expand/move a little more than normal and expose a loose connection and create an air leak.

the joy of buying someone else's project is discovering someone's problems that formed the underlying reason for abandoning the project. best of luck to you.
Modified by f s t caz at 12:06 PM 2/24/2005

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8ggalant
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Car: nissan cefiro

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thanks everyone...ill start by gettin a filter and adapter. also i dont have a "code-checker" (cant remember what ther called)...anyone local have one i can use- Caz maybe...Thanks for all the input fella's ill keep you all informed

thanks for the link caz
Modified by 8ggalant at 12:33 PM 2/24/2005

boost_boy
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Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
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8ggalant wrote:thanks everyone...ill start by gettin a filter and adapter. also i dont have a "code-checker" (cant remember what ther called)...anyone local have one i can use- Caz maybe...Thanks for all the input fella's ill keep you all informed

thanks for the link caz

Modified by 8ggalant at 12:33 PM 2/24/2005
You don't need a code checker to check for codes on your ecu. Your ecu's codes can be read by merely turning your ignition to on and with your ecu already accessible, turn the dial that close the yellow and red lights clockwise until you see the two blink 3 times; then quickly turn the dial back before the 3 flash cycle ends and the fourth one begins. Count the # of flashes for the red light then the green light and let us know what the flashes are so someone cn give you codes if they're any. Oh yeah, like some of the guys say, riding around without a filter over your AFM will give you more issues than you really need.

Dee

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8ggalant
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Car: nissan cefiro

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k ill go out there and do that now...thanks boost

btw filter is on order and will be here in a few days

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8ggalant
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Car: nissan cefiro

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ok i just finished

5 red5 green

so whats that mean

WeldingHank
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Car: 1989 240sx CA18DET

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that means all is well.

boost_boy
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8ggalant wrote:k ill go out there and do that now...thanks boost

btw filter is on order and will be here in a few days
Your issue is more than likely around your afm, but what concerned me is what you said about your rpm. If it's flickering sporatically as you rev it up, then you more than likely have an ignition leak or bad CAS (Which I seriously doubt). Or it could just be the issues with your afm getting too much air. I've done it before and the car went ballistic. If you have your afm too close to the turbocharger and have no bov, you will have some issues as well.

Dee

NeedCAforS13
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boost_boy wrote: If you have your afm too close to the turbocharger and have no bov, you will have some issues as well.
SO TRUE! when I first put the motor in the car, I didn't have the intake pipe, so I just attached the maf directly to the turbo, and my car ran like chit! Even with a 6 inch section of straight pipe on there it didn't run nearly as well as with my new stock intake elbow... gotta get the maf a little ways away from the turbo for it to read properly

Sean

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8ggalant
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ok well thats good to here...hopefully its not hte cas...if it is how would i test that?? and as far as the distance the maf is from the turbo its on the stock turbo to maf pipe(rubber pipe).. but yea the filter will be here monday or tuesday ...got an apexi univeral....and ill make a bracket/brace while the car is sitting.

one more thing my brother told me that he "HEARD" /some one told him when he had his ca's that you could reset the ecu by unplugging it for a period of time and plugging it back in...since it already said all is well should i attempt this or just leave well enuf alone...thanks for the help everyone...ill let u know how its running when i get the filter in teh mail...thanks again

kevin

boost_boy
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8ggalant wrote:ok well thats good to here...hopefully its not hte cas...if it is how would i test that?? and as far as the distance the maf is from the turbo its on the stock turbo to maf pipe(rubber pipe).. but yea the filter will be here monday or tuesday ...got an apexi univeral....and ill make a bracket/brace while the car is sitting.

one more thing my brother told me that he "HEARD" /some one told him when he had his ca's that you could reset the ecu by unplugging it for a period of time and plugging it back in...since it already said all is well should i attempt this or just leave well enuf alone...thanks for the help everyone...ill let u know how its running when i get the filter in teh mail...thanks again

kevin
Your ecu is self-diagnosing, so it monitors its own critical components. The CAS is a very critical component and if the ecu had picked-up an irregular signal, your ecu would display a code. Code 55 means your cars components are all responding during role call, so you are issue free for the moment when it comes to critical components.

As for resetting your ecu, it makes no sense seeing you don't have a trouble code. So leave it be..........

Dee

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8ggalant
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ok well left it be for the night yesterday....and now it wont start ....its cranking and every thing and it trys to turn over but wont go all the way...so thats where i am now...trying to figure that out

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rico05
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Run another diagnosis on the ECU.

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8ggalant
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55 all clear

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biosehnsucht
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try jumpstarting. something could be draining the battery, or maybe the alternator isn't charging it right

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8ggalant
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ill check that in a few...my wife went out and the cables are in teh other car...

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8ggalant
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tried the jumpstart...let it charge for a while, then went @ it...no joy...so now im stumped...the ecu still says all is well...im getting fuel and spark....im stumped...any more ideas??/

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8ggalant
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bump

djmace
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check connections on the plug of the maf... mines did the same thing

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8ggalant
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checked those but i will check them again..thanka mace...keep'em comin folks PLEEEEASE

droopy_map
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Car: 1990 200sx

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What if he had left the filter, and only took off the resinator (the box that's behind the filter), could that also be a source of the problem. Just asking because i'm having similar problems now, but the filter is still there, and the BOV now even sounds different (weaker)

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8ggalant
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just went out pulled the plugs and cleaned em..made sure all electrical was reconnected (maf included)...did an ecu test...55...tried to crank it..same thing D@MNI+....anyone have any ideas...turns out i wont have the filter till next week as i didnt have the money i thought i did to blow on the car...man this is frustrating..mainly because its probly sumthing simple....HELP

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rico05
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Just double checking: How are you sure that you have fuel and spark? What does the car do when you try to start it? Does it chug, stall, do nothing? Can you hear the starter only or is the engine itself trying to start? Start being real specific and maybe we can help...

BTW: Get comfy with the FSM.If there is anything that I have learned about the CA is that it's biggest downfall is not the engine, but the retarded 8bit POS ECCS...

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8ggalant
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well i know i have fuel because i can smell it in the exhaust when yer cranking it....i dont know about the spark or the starter (my father in law said that i was so i was going by his word) but id love to learn if sumone would tell me how to check the the two(starter working/have spark)....

when you try to start the car it chugs/sputters like its gonna turn over but doesnt...as for the FSM...ill get right on it

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8ggalant
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bump

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8ggalant
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well i guess ill just w8 till i get my maf filter gets here...im stumped..any one have any tips let me know

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float_6969
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Try unpluggin the MAFS completely. If it will start then (it may not run well) then you know it's isolated to the MAFS or a vac. leak. If it still doesn't start, then we'll have to look elsewhere.


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