New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
So I bought a 1990 300zx TT for $2500. Has 128k miles. The guy was desperate. It doesn't run very well. What are some of the first things I need to do. I'm looking at learning how to work on cars. Okay first of all I just changed the spark plugs and noticed that only 2 of the 6 cylinders had oil in the plugs when I pulled them. And it has very little power. What should I do? Thanks
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nissanfreak12
- Posts: 1709
- Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:07 pm
- Car: 92 300zx 2+2 TT
- Location: Denver, CO
Re: New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
How much oil are we talking? They are not supposed to have oil on them at all, so two cylinders have potential to have bad oil control rings. Which usually means bad compression as well.
When you changed the plugs did you use the ones from an auto parts store or did you buy the ones designed for these engines?
There is a lot to learn about these cars, may not be the best first car to learn how to work on, but we need to learn at some point. First thing to do is read "everything you need to know about the Z32" on the home page of the technical section or general section. Pull codes from the ECU, then just basic stuff like clean the connectors, basic maintenance, and 120k kit.
BTW, welcome! Post some pics.
When you changed the plugs did you use the ones from an auto parts store or did you buy the ones designed for these engines?
There is a lot to learn about these cars, may not be the best first car to learn how to work on, but we need to learn at some point. First thing to do is read "everything you need to know about the Z32" on the home page of the technical section or general section. Pull codes from the ECU, then just basic stuff like clean the connectors, basic maintenance, and 120k kit.
BTW, welcome! Post some pics.
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z.Leinbach
- Posts: 504
- Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2015 10:08 pm
- Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX NA T-top
- Location: Kennewick, Wa
- Contact:
Re: New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
could also be valve seals as weell, id just pull it and completely reseal it
Re: New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
Here are some pics. If anyone can tell me exactly what I'm looking at. The druggy i bought it from had done some aftermarket crap to it which is confusing me. Im in the process of pulling the plenum to replace the plenum gasket and valve cover gaskets. i also have the exhaust return gasket. Should i replace that? Car has 128k miles on it. While I'm in the engine, what else should i replace and where would be the best place to buy. I got the gaskets off Z1. Thanks for all the info. Oh and if anyone has a good video or instructions on how to remove the engine components that will be a life saver. How do i attach pictures to this thread? lol I'm having some difficulties and I'm not technologically challenged.
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nissanfreak12
- Posts: 1709
- Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:07 pm
- Car: 92 300zx 2+2 TT
- Location: Denver, CO
Re: New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
NO pics shown up. Take a pic of the engine as well so we know what we are looking at.
Re: New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
How do i put an image on this thread? Im new to this one. I also own a Jeep JK and read all the forums but this site is new to me. Thanks everyone
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AZhitman
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Re: New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
Welcome aboard, JCP. Hang in there, you're in good hands.
how-to-post-pictures-using-photobucket-t521110.html
Also, don't forget that you can access your car's FSM here: www.nissanservicemanual.com
how-to-post-pictures-using-photobucket-t521110.html
Also, don't forget that you can access your car's FSM here: www.nissanservicemanual.com
Re: New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
Here is the links to my photo bucket pics of the engine when i first got it. I have now been trying to take the plenum off for atleast 10 hours over several days. I almost have it i just think there are a few hoses which I'm going to cut and replace and the EGR or whatever the exhaust return thing is called. Can anyone tell me what I'm looking at. The crackhead who owned the car before me said that there was a turbo timer installed. What is the blue hose? and He also (come to find out after pulling stuff) had zip tied an aftermarket fan on the radiator through the fins! and just directly wired so its always on when the key is turned. I want to get it running well, what all should i do or replace when plenum and stuff is off? I have the valve cover gaskets and plenum gaskets which i think there is a leak in the valve cover gaskets cause there is a lot of oil everywhere. Im just starting to learn. Thank you
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RubyRed300ZX
- Posts: 417
- Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2010 2:24 pm
- Car: 1993 300zx Convertible
Re: New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
"Can anyone tell me what I'm looking at." ... a complete mess.
You have your work cutout for you. The hoses and the wiring. That kluge atop the battery of odd wiring to the blue wire wrapped around the fuel line by the fuel filter, to the mess along the firewall. If it's in your budget, might want to consider buying a whole new wiring harness ... check the sponsors for this site.
You have your work cutout for you. The hoses and the wiring. That kluge atop the battery of odd wiring to the blue wire wrapped around the fuel line by the fuel filter, to the mess along the firewall. If it's in your budget, might want to consider buying a whole new wiring harness ... check the sponsors for this site.
Re: New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
Who are the sponsors for the site? What are some of the things i should replace with 128k miles on it? Fuel injectors? stuff like that. Is there any way i can simplify the mess around the firewall? Thanks
Re: New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
That blue line looks as if it is tee'd off to run to a boost controller. At the very least, I'd clean that up if not replace or remove it until you get the car running strong. He at least installed it with the same length of hose on either side of the vacuum tee.
You can eliminate the EGR entirely (as long as you don't have to pass emissions tests). I deleted mine when I first pulled my upper plenum. It's still somewhat hard to get to, but doable. I had to cut one of the EGR pipes that runs from the back of the engine to either side of the plenum with bolt cutters to get it out after it was unbolted. I would recommend saving the heat insulation on those pipes, as they are nice to wrap the turbo oil supply lines, if you ever get easy access to them (don't bother trying to get to them with the engine in).
I'd also recommend you do the coolant line bypass. It removes a ton of the coolant lines under the plenum that aren't necessary. It makes it so much easier to remove the plenum, simplifies the engine bay and gives you less potential places for leaks and headaches. https://z32.wikispaces.com/Coolant+Line+Bypass
As for improving the operation of the engine, get some electrical contact cleaner (aerosol spray) and clean all of the electrical connectors and sensor contacts. Might as well clean whatever plugs you can get to, as they all get dirty over time. Especially the injectors, coil pack plugs, cam angle sensor, aac & iacv (back of the plenum) and throttle position sensor. After you spray them, take a small screwdriver and scrape the contacts clean.
You can eliminate the EGR entirely (as long as you don't have to pass emissions tests). I deleted mine when I first pulled my upper plenum. It's still somewhat hard to get to, but doable. I had to cut one of the EGR pipes that runs from the back of the engine to either side of the plenum with bolt cutters to get it out after it was unbolted. I would recommend saving the heat insulation on those pipes, as they are nice to wrap the turbo oil supply lines, if you ever get easy access to them (don't bother trying to get to them with the engine in).
I'd also recommend you do the coolant line bypass. It removes a ton of the coolant lines under the plenum that aren't necessary. It makes it so much easier to remove the plenum, simplifies the engine bay and gives you less potential places for leaks and headaches. https://z32.wikispaces.com/Coolant+Line+Bypass
As for improving the operation of the engine, get some electrical contact cleaner (aerosol spray) and clean all of the electrical connectors and sensor contacts. Might as well clean whatever plugs you can get to, as they all get dirty over time. Especially the injectors, coil pack plugs, cam angle sensor, aac & iacv (back of the plenum) and throttle position sensor. After you spray them, take a small screwdriver and scrape the contacts clean.
Re: New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
Awesome, thanks for all the info. Ill keep y'all updated on how its coming. I just took off the drivers side egr. Now having a little difficulty getting to the passenger side hose clamp. Quick question, one of the coil back bolt holes (in the plenum) is broken half off. Is one bolt holding down a coil pack enough?
Re: New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
Update!!! Got the plenum off! Going to do the coolant line delete and egr delete. Anyone suggest any other delete to simplify the engine? The symptoms of the car when i got it was it would start but power was so weak and it barely drove like 25mph. There is a ton of oil on the back and bottom of the engine so my guess was valve cover gasket leak. Im going through and going to clean and check some stuff. not too knowledgeable about it all so any tips would help. I also have the plenum gaskets and going to get throttle chamber thing gasket. Does anyone know if these are the stock fuel injectors? I thought the stock were red but i could be wrong. Im going to try and test them right now. Should i replace them? they looked old and one injectors just had one bolt holding it in. Oh another question, the plenum has a bolt hole broke off where the coil packs bolt in, is 1 bolt enough for a coil pack? Thanks, any links will help too. 
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DCaff300ZX
- Posts: 4202
- Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
- Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified - Location: Tacoma, Washington
Re: New 300 owner Only 2 of 6 spark plugs have oil.
Wow, a mess indeed! As stated, the twin turbo Z32 is a really, REALLY bad place to begin learning due to complexity, and VERY tight working environment plus costs due to the need for replacing ALL suspect and worn items, NO exception for best results. Z1 and Concept Z and Specialty Z will become firmly attached to your bank account, and you will perfect a whole new range of curse words and other choice comments for Nissan engineers, who while creating a really really good car did so while also creating a service nightmare...perhaps on purpose.
You definitely have your work cut out for you, and will learn a LOT doing all of this. Part of your learning will be when to cut your losses and have a pro do some things for you if that possibility exists, because most likely your engine needs a major overhaul of all of it's seals and complete turbo system...possibly and probably including new turbos.
The problem you have is that a boosted engine means that the entire engine is under positive pressure, which in your (and previously my own) case, means major oil and boost leaks. Boost leaks are also vacuum leaks without boost (normal driving) which all in all taxes the turbos which if not already worn out, will soon be pushing against nothing (massive boost leaks). These leaks usually are from the lower turbo piping clamps that have loosened or rotted hose, or both.
Coupled with probably incorrect boost controller surely set at higher levels from the crackhead (I had similar butchery but hidden well) and surely bad early style injectors/connectors, plus other corroded connectors and questionable wiring showing throughout the bay, you face many many hours of work simply to replace the injectors and fuel rail, connectors, harness, and IACV/PTU harness/CTS sensor connectors, correct all vacuum hoses and wiring plus add a correct boost control setup, and many more small little things that are hard to communicate here...they become obvious as you progress.
The online service manual has a lot of valuable information and especially tests for various issues which I have used most of, and are very helpful. tt.net has many how-to's and various information as well that is helpful. Plus there are many good members here that can help with direct questions and insights but it's a lot harder when there is SOO much to go over...bottom line is ask away with specific questions in titled threads for best results rather than ask indirect questions in a longer term unfolding thread like this. By all means keep this thread updated and running, but ask your direct questions in separate threads.
Oh, and also if you look at my build thread attached to my sig, near the end I detail my own hunt and struggles dealing with basically what I suspect you are facing so you can get some ideas and insights there as well.
Good Luck, hope you have some large cajones (and small hands!!!) my friend!
You definitely have your work cut out for you, and will learn a LOT doing all of this. Part of your learning will be when to cut your losses and have a pro do some things for you if that possibility exists, because most likely your engine needs a major overhaul of all of it's seals and complete turbo system...possibly and probably including new turbos.
The problem you have is that a boosted engine means that the entire engine is under positive pressure, which in your (and previously my own) case, means major oil and boost leaks. Boost leaks are also vacuum leaks without boost (normal driving) which all in all taxes the turbos which if not already worn out, will soon be pushing against nothing (massive boost leaks). These leaks usually are from the lower turbo piping clamps that have loosened or rotted hose, or both.
Coupled with probably incorrect boost controller surely set at higher levels from the crackhead (I had similar butchery but hidden well) and surely bad early style injectors/connectors, plus other corroded connectors and questionable wiring showing throughout the bay, you face many many hours of work simply to replace the injectors and fuel rail, connectors, harness, and IACV/PTU harness/CTS sensor connectors, correct all vacuum hoses and wiring plus add a correct boost control setup, and many more small little things that are hard to communicate here...they become obvious as you progress.
The online service manual has a lot of valuable information and especially tests for various issues which I have used most of, and are very helpful. tt.net has many how-to's and various information as well that is helpful. Plus there are many good members here that can help with direct questions and insights but it's a lot harder when there is SOO much to go over...bottom line is ask away with specific questions in titled threads for best results rather than ask indirect questions in a longer term unfolding thread like this. By all means keep this thread updated and running, but ask your direct questions in separate threads.
Oh, and also if you look at my build thread attached to my sig, near the end I detail my own hunt and struggles dealing with basically what I suspect you are facing so you can get some ideas and insights there as well.
Good Luck, hope you have some large cajones (and small hands!!!) my friend!