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My 1990 Q's transmission is no longer going into high gear. With 192K it's served me well but it's now time to look for a replacement tranny. I don't want to rush and pick up a transmission which is also nearing the end of it's useful life so I'm looking for a low-mileage Japanese take out or a worthy domestic replacement.

If anyone has had success with the Japanese take-outs or can provide good sources, please let me know.

Thanks... Drew....

Probably the safest thing to do is get an OEM rebuild from Joe Tesensky. Costs about $1800 (with core return) plus the cost of installation (or if you do it yourself).

Call T3 ... you are close enough (in Atlanta )! They may be able to get you a good one quickly.

Z

Give Slim a call (450zxtt)

He was selling trannys for $150. At that price, it is well worth it. He is east of Atlanta, a few miles.

Yeah,

I already priced a unit with Joe. His price is considerably cheaper than other dealers but right now it's still more than I can expend. Kids are going back to school etc. I'm going to keep that open as a last resort. I've already spoken with Slim and right now he has nothing but that can change at any time. You're right Jeff...at that price, it's worth the risk.

I know that many will disagree but I have to keep in mind that this is a 15 year old car with 192K on it and no resale value. Spending over 2k on it right now just makes no economical sense. I'm fully aware that if I the car gets a decent size dent, it will be written off along with all I have put into it.

...Drew...

DrewQ45 wrote:I know that many will disagree but I have to keep in mind that this is a 15 year old car with 192K on it and no resale value. Spending over 2k on it right now just makes no economical sense. I'm fully aware that if I the car gets a decent size dent, it will be written off along with all I have put into it.

It is a dilemma, but if you keep your insurance company informed, they may well consider maintaining a beyond market value.

The other part of the dilemma is there is no further discount on parts or labor for a $38K (1990 USD) car. You spend the money now required to keep it in as new mechainical operating condition and you have a great car for pennies on the as-new price, or you let it degrade into a beater and it becomes dust in no time as everything else that fails from further neglect will cost even more to replace.

Then there are the safety implications which almost no one considers.

Can't remember the name, but just South of PEP Boys [same side opposite Dobbins runway] on Cobb Parkway [US41] is an Industrial Park with a Japanese engine takeout distributor..............no sign you have to wander around the rears [loading docks] to see or ask.........it has been a few years since I was inside.......they had a wall of trannies stacked to ceiling. [$~~400-500].

I found web site: Notice the engine in the picture. Notice all of the following one must do to the take out part before instllation for the warranty to be effective!!!!!http://www.engineline.com/en/

ENGINELINE.COM INC. warrants to their original buyers that each item sold is protected from defects in material and workmanship when property installed under normal use and service for the period of time and distance to the terms and conditions as following: 1. IMPORTANT: A) A silver-nickel-like heat tab is installed on the block of every engine we sell. If the tab is removed or center is melted (at around 225° F), warranty will be voided. It is the customer's responsibility to check the location of heat tab and make sure it does not fall of during installation. Call us for details. B) Vehicle with disconnected or non-operative odometer will be considered for the usage of 1,500 miles per month. In order to validate your warranty, customer must surrender a copy of repair order with odometer reading or notify ENGINELINE.COM INC. in writing. 2. TERMS: ENGINELINE.COM INC. at its option either to repair or replace the defective unit only. A) 1. Direct Imported Used Engines: Sold as long block only. 6 months warranty on the internal parts only from the date of purchase. No warranty is covered on any attached accessories and parts such as manifolds, carburetor, distributor, alternator, starter, water pump, thermostat, clutch, flywheel, timing belt of belt driving engine & all seals, etc. 2. No warranty is offered on Mazda rotary, diesel, high performance and racing engine. Racing engines are not street legal. B) Used Transmissions: 6 months warranty from the date of purchase on internal parts only. Electrical switches, wiring systems, shifting linkage and torque convertor are not guaranteed. C) All items other than the above will be sold as is. No return, refund or warranty is offered unless specified at the front of receipt. 3. CUSTOMER'S OBLIGATION: A) Customer must install new oil, oil filter, thermostat, spark plugs, coolant and tune up parts. B) Customer must rod out radiator, change new water hoses, water pump, all seals and gaskets whatever is necessary before installation. Water and oil leaks due to the failure of these gaskets and seals are not warranted. C) Due to the variations and design on same models of Japanese version engines, customer is required to make necessary changes over on some parts such as change oil pan and oil pick up tube, dipstick, flywheel, clutch assembly, distributor and smog device etc. D) Customer is responsible to re-inall all smog device. E) All belt-driving engines are required to be installed new timing belt and set on right timing before installation is done. See Limitation (4-d). F) Check and adjust valve clearance and tune up. G) Customer is responsible to verify parts for fitness, proper size and application prior to installation. We assume no liability for parts incorrectly installed as the result of errors in ordering, packing and shipping. H) All external seals on transmission must be replaced. 4. LIMITATION: This warranty shall not apply to or include any of the following: A) Repair or replacement as a result of any accident, misuses, collision, upset, fire, negligence, alteration, racing events, improper installation or repair. B) Labor cost, downtime, towing charges, freight charges, rental and compreshensive insurance claim etc. C) Oil leaks, blown head gasket and over heating due to poor cooling system. D) Bent valve, lock up or back fire due to broken timing belt or wrong timing set. New timing belt must be installed on all belt-driving engines before installation. E) Internal damages caused by dropping obstacles into combustion chambers. 5. SHIPPING, DELIVERY AND PICK UP FROM/ON OUR PREMISES: A) Products that need to be shipped are done at customer's expense and risk. Any loss or damages in shipping should be filled and claimed directly through the freight carrier. We assume no responsibility for any loss, damages, freight cost and miscellaneous charges. B) Loading or unloading on our premises is done for customer's courtesy. We assume no responsiblity for any loss or damage to customer's vehicles. 6. RETURN POLICY: A) In case of mechanical breakdown, customer must notify ENGINELINE.COM INC. immediately and obtain an authorization for inspection and shipping instruction. B) The defective unit with attached accessories must be returned to our premises at customer's cost within 7 days after authorization is given. C) We will not accept any shipment returned in freight collect C.O.D. or without any consent of ENGINELINE.COM INC. D) ENGINELINE.COM INC. reserves the right to hold at least two or maximum seven working days to inspect the defective unit before any replacement unit is given out. E) Warranty will be voided for any unauthorization repair or disassembly on defective unit without consent of ENGINELINE.COM INC. F) All merchandise sold is under exchange policy only on the time being installed, disassembled, damaged or kept over 7 days, absolutely no refund. G) There will be a 20% handling and restocking fee for any returned item. Freight and delivery charges are not refundable. H) Deposit is good for 14 days only, non-refundable and no credit. $20 service charge on any returned check. I) Any returned merchandise must accompany with receipt, otherwise no warranty will be honored.

NOTICE that the above considers an engine abused [warranty voided] if the head/block exceeds 225F. By the melted temperature sensor affixed.

Consider how close that is to Q oem limit of 194F [thermostat fully open] and some uninformed members postulating that high temps in Summer are ok...........sure cast iron engines can take it but not ALL/Part Aluminum ones.

As to spending money think of what you save by just having liability coverage ------at least $600-$1000 per year. When some one hits you they have to make you whole [including your recent cost/repairs up grades etc.].

Obviously if you destroy your own car you need to be punished.

Q45tech wrote:Obviously if you destroy your own car you need to be punished.

WELL said!

In some circles, I would be called one who destroys his own cars, but in others, I would be praised for my meticulous upkeep.

I have full coverage on all 4 of my cars. The difference between full coverage and liability, for Layla (the car worth the least) is only $50 a month. Right now, it is worth it. There are still a lot of people out there with no insurance and no drivers license, that tend to be attracted to my cars. I have been hit 3 times by these people, and Alabama does very little to them.

Drew, why don't you get Joe to donate a tranny, and have Greg set-up a mechanics booth at NICO/NOPI. All the NICO members could converge on your car, and replace the tranny. Maybe get some TV time.

Tech, thanks for the link and advice. Those warranty requirements are something else! Glad I’m not trying to buy an engine from them.

Regarding liability versus comprehensive…. I priced that a long time ago and the difference in cost was not great enough to warrant the risk…..The risk being that having only liability fully exposes you/your ASSets to lawsuits (with no buffer) should you end up being at fault in a high injury/death accident. If someone owns a house with a decent amount of equity for example, liability is not the way to go. Both my vehicles are fully covered.

I know I’ll have to fix the Q as she is just too beautiful to let go. The condition is beautiful (one of the best around) considering that it’s a 16 year old (89’ prod) with almost 200K. I recently got the AC fixed, HVAC display changed (to one that actually displays), fixed the visor mirrors, new brakes, rotors, steel lines, adjustable stillen tension rods still new in the box to be put on, along with new spark plugs sitting in waiting for me to find the patience. Shoot...I hardly got to enjoy the fstb that Jeff sent.

I truly wish I had the bucks for a level 10 tranny with the matching rear-end.

“Drew, why don't you get Joe to donate a tranny, and have Greg set-up a mechanics booth at NICO/NOPI. All the NICO members could converge on your car, and replace the tranny. Maybe get some TV time.”

Jeff are you serious? Stop teasing me!

..Drew...

DrewQ45 wrote:Regarding liability versus comprehensive…. I priced that a long time ago and the difference in cost was not great enough to warrant the risk…..The risk being that having only liability fully exposes you/your ASSets to lawsuits (with no buffer) should you end up being at fault in a high injury/death accident. If someone owns a house with a decent amount of equity for example, liability is not the way to go. Both my vehicles are fully covered...Drew...

I think you're a bit confused. Liability coverage is what protects you in the event of a lawsuit, collision covers damage to your car if the wreck is your fault, comprehensive covers all other types of damage to your car(fire, theft, vandalism, glass).

"I think you're a bit confused. Liability coverage is what protects you in the event of a lawsuit, collision covers damage to your car if the wreck is your fault, comprehensive covers all other types of damage to your car(fire, theft, vandalism, glass)."

I stand corrected.... only had 2.5 hours sleep last night... what the hell am I thinking? Shouldn't even be posting.... Regardless though, my covg is not much more so I'll keep it.

If it makes you feel better... replacing the transmission will be less painful than what I've spent recently on rotors/pads, front shocks, master cylinder, fuel pump, fpcu, and probably MAF and IAC soon. (Also replaced radiator and did trans flush in Feb). I'm over my $3000 target for the year but at least I have no more lingering repairs any time soon.

You can always just leave it in 3rd gear all the time and see if it still works. I know Nat in SC (and his son) did that for a long time on his '90 Q.

Hurry up and get a low interest credit card before all the banks become monopolies again!

I recently bought lot of suspension parts from 1995 Q45 near atlanta from directautopart [email protected] (770-795-0202 Hadi). They had the engine and gearbox low mileage. They may have still the transmission.

Gatis