Need pictures of a modified Rb25 oil pan on a RB26?

[technorb26]

I did a search, but could not find any pictures. I know I have to either cut and reweld the oil pan, or cut and add a half pipe, to clear the oil pickup tube. Any pictures would be helpful though.

TIA

[Nameless EJ6]

You don't have to weld anything. You cut the baffle plate a bit and that's it.

You don't need pictures. Put the pan up to the block and you'll see what you have to do. If you can't figure out a little bit of fab work you won't be able to complete a complicated swap like this.

[TheSnail]

It does need modification. You have to modify the the oil pan baffles, then you need to cut the 3 plates off the back of the oil pan since the 26 has them coming from the block in stead of the oil pan. Then you have to cut and weld a semicircle peice onto the oil pan for the oil pick up to clear since the 26 oil pan is 1 inch wider, but has two sets of bolt holes, 26, 20-25. Once you are done with that, you need to bang out the oild pan from the inside a bit since the pick-up as a bit too long. Before I did this I though (by the internet) that the 25-20 oil pan just bolted on the 26. After hours of messing with it, I called mickiney to see what they had to do, and they did not know, but just sent it to be fabed up and said it was the most ***** part, and I admit, it was the most ***** part. So I spent 6hrs modifying the oilpan. Here is a pic, its a ****ty pic, so I will take another one next time my car is on the lift.



-Snail

[technorb26]

It does need modification. You have to modify the the oil pan baffles, then you need to cut the 3 plates off the back of the oil pan since the 26 has them coming from the block in stead of the oil pan. Then you have to cut and weld a semicircle peice onto the oil pan for the oil pick up to clear since the 26 oil pan is 1 inch wider, but has two sets of bolt holes, 26, 20-25. Once you are done with that, you need to bang out the oild pan from the inside a bit since the pick-up as a bit too long. Before I did this I though (by the internet) that the 25-20 oil pan just bolted on the 26. After hours of messing with it, I called mickiney to see what they had to do, and they did not know, but just sent it to be fabed up and said it was the most ***** part, and I admit, it was the most ***** part. So I spent 6hrs modifying the oilpan. Here is a pic, its a ****ty pic, so I will take another one next time my car is on the lift.



-Snail

Hi Snail,

that is what I am looking for:-) THANKS A LOT!!!

So let me verify the steps:- cut a piece of the pan , that is about 1.5x1.5. Weld a semicircle ( cut a piece of stainless pipe in half, and weld it on the pan.- weld a flat plate to close the side of the pan- weld a flat piece to the oil pan rail to close the gap- put a lot of sealant in that area when installing the pan

Baffles are no big deal.

Once done I will post some pictures.

[technorb26]

You don't have to weld anything. You cut the baffle plate a bit and that's it.

You don't need pictures. Put the pan up to the block and you'll see what you have to do. If you can't figure out a little bit of fab work you won't be able to complete a complicated swap like this.

Yes, I cannot figure a swap like that out:-)

You were using a RB25 pickup tube, so please edit your post, so the people reading the post will not be fooled that it is a bolt-on, just "cut some baffles".

My engine is in, and everything is done. Except the oil pan mod and the 5speed conversion.

[BoostFab]

why not modify the stock rb26 pan? cut off the drive shaft that runs through it and patch up the holes??

btw! i think you guys should use the grey color rtv sealer...the orange color looks funky.

[technorb26]

why not modify the stock rb26 pan? cut off the drive shaft that runs through it and patch up the holes??

btw! i think you guys should use the grey color rtv sealer...the orange color looks funky.

I believe it will hit the sway bar, and it might not clear the crossmember with that diff on the front.

[gawdzilla]

i was hoping to do mine w/o welding. it looks lit it will be a very tight fit, but it may work.

the outside of the 26 oil pickup flange will need to be grinded down, and maybe the inside of the 25 pan near the flange banged out.

[Nameless EJ6]

lol, even with the RB26 pickup you don't have to weld anything. Hammers and dremmels work wonders. I'm using the 26 pickup actually.. I lost the 25 pickup.

[gawdzilla]

sounds good nameless. did you get yours to fit already?

For the baffling, Scott Buwalda said he removed all of the baffling from the 25 pan, then placed the original 26 baffling back onto the block. Might be safer oil-wise than cutting away portions of the 25 baffling and just cut it all out.

[JonPowell]

btw! i think you guys should use the grey color rtv sealer...the orange color looks funky.

I believe that is the NISSAN issued sealer you see on that pan...what better to use thant he stuff with the engine manufacturer's name on it?

[Ramius83]

I used the stock RB26 oil pan.

The differential itself is separated from the actual engine oil. It uses diff. fluid as with any other diff. We cut off the whole diff housing itself, and the opposite side CV axle plate. You do NOT have to cut the rod off that is located in the center of the actual oil pan. Even with two holes on each side of the oil pan, it will NOT leak because that center rod in the oil pan is perfectly sealed off.

[technorb26]

I used the stock RB26 oil pan.

The differential itself is separated from the actual engine oil. It uses diff. fluid as with any other diff. We cut off the whole diff housing itself, and the opposite side CV axle plate. You do NOT have to cut the rod off that is located in the center of the actual oil pan. Even with two holes on each side of the oil pan, it will NOT leak because that center rod in the oil pan is perfectly sealed off.

What about sway bar clearance? Which mounts do you have? S13?

[BoostFab]

I used the stock RB26 oil pan.The differential itself is separated from the actual engine oil. It uses diff. fluid as with any other diff. We cut off the whole diff housing itself, and the opposite side CV axle plate. You do NOT have to cut the rod off that is located in the center of the actual oil pan. Even with two holes on each side of the oil pan, it will NOT leak because that center rod in the oil pan is perfectly sealed off.

that's is exactly what i was implying. the gtr probably use the same crossmember, so i'm assuming the 26's oil pan will clear.

technorb26: why don't you drop in the motor for test fit and find out.

[Ramius83]

techno:

I measured the dimensions of the RB26 oil pan versus the RB25 oil pan once I cut the diff off. It has almost identical measurements of where the oil pan "dips" down where the oil pick-up is. It is almost no different than the RB25 pan once modified. When the engine goes in, I'll let you know about clearance. I have yet to get my wiring back from McKinney. I am gonna be done with this within a month. I have an S14 with the McKinney mounts and driveshaft.

[technorb26]

Hi,

I am picking up the oil pan from the shop tomorrow.

I have the old RB26 pan, but Mack said that pan will not clear the sway bar?!If yours does, i will switch back to RB26 pan, I still have mine.

My engine is already in the car. When I had to drop it in, I could not do the mod, so I just removed the baffles and oil pickup, and bolted the RB25 pan. Now, the project is almost done ( fluids, clamp IC piping, install BOV, wire gauges, install lower harness), and I am doing the pan. I will let everybody know how it goes tomorrow after I get the RB25 pan back.

[Ramius83]

Well, if worse comes to worse that the RB26 pan does hit the sway bar, I'll remove the sway bar and modify it. I would rather have a full perfect working engine first, then customize the suspension to work on it.

Besides, a TIG welder and a plasma cutter (or cutting torch) can easily fix that sway bar problem......

[Ramius83]

Also, by what I was talking to Mack, he said that the actual diff hit the sway bar. Well, mine is removed totally, so I do NOT see why it wouldn't work. The dimensions NOW of the RB26 pan with the cut diff. are nearly identical to that of the RB25 pan. So we'll see.....

[gawdzilla]

cool, keep us updated. I'm still trying to decide which method to use...

[Vrtgrumpy]

Its not the Diff that hits..... The front of the oil pan is totally different then the RB25. The big part in the front of the pan (RB26) is what hits. I have the RB26 oil pan in my S13, currently with no sway bar because of the pan (I haven't driven the car since then, so who needs it). But we did just did one on a S13. The gold S13 that was in Import Racer, we changed it to the RB26 pan and made a custom swaybar for it.

If you guys want i can take a pic tomorrow to show you that it does hit the sway bar area.........................

Grumpy

[Phat_Optimo]

Its not the Diff that hits..... The front of the oil pan is totally different then the RB25. The big part in the front of the pan (RB26) is what hits. I have the RB26 oil pan in my S13, currently with no sway bar because of the pan (I haven't driven the car since then, so who needs it). But we did just did one on a S13. The gold S13 that was in Import Racer, we changed it to the RB26 pan and made a custom swaybar for it.

If you guys want i can take a pic tomorrow to show you that it does hit the sway bar area.........................

Grumpy

Hi, when you say made a custom swaybar does that mean you customized the OEM bar or made a one off bar? I had a feeling the swaybar was going to be in the way. I could tell just by looking at. Its in a bad spot. I'd like to see a few pics if you would. Also if its a one off piece then will you be making any more for sale?

[technorb26]

Its not the Diff that hits..... The front of the oil pan is totally different then the RB25. The big part in the front of the pan (RB26) is what hits. I have the RB26 oil pan in my S13, currently with no sway bar because of the pan (I haven't driven the car since then, so who needs it). But we did just did one on a S13. The gold S13 that was in Import Racer, we changed it to the RB26 pan and made a custom swaybar for it.

If you guys want i can take a pic tomorrow to show you that it does hit the sway bar area.........................

Grumpy

That custom sway bar that you guys did, is it bigger than stock? Solid? How much?

[gawdzilla]

for those who are still interested in how this is done...

i modified my 25 pan yesterday to fit the 26. you cannot use the 26 baffling (the plates that bolt to the bottom of the girdle). the bolts which hold the baffling touch the pan itself.

only going to be able to use the 25 baffling (which comes in the pan).

there are only 3 things needed to make the pan fit.

1) use some metal cutting shears and cut a small square and bend away to extend the 25 pickup hole towards the front more. this allows the 26 pickup to clear.

2) use a hammer and whack the pan on the edge to bend it out. dont go crazy or the whole pan will warp.

3) use a dremel or drill to elongate 4 of the holes near the pickup side so the pan can be bolted in.

i have taken some pics of my modified 25 pan if people are still interested...

i know it looks ghetto leaving that cut piece there, but its sturdy and i figure its better than removing the baffling completely:

outside pic. you can see the slight bulge (dont go overboard), and some of the holes widened.

[Nameless EJ6]

That is precisely what I did to mine. 'cept I cut my baffling out with a die grinder.

Stupid me. I'm going to tig some goodies into it eventually.

Nice.

[gawdzilla]

yea... i cut away those 3 guide fins on the back side of the pan thinking i would be using the 26 baffling... looks like im gonna have to do w/o anything on the back side.

[Ramius83]

Yeah, I need to take some pics of my modded RB26 pan on here. I did get it to fit, with only some little misfits here and there.

The whole oil pan where the subframe and steering rack goes under it had to be cut and ground away, which isn't hard with an angle grinder and since aluminum is soft as hell. And the whole heat sink on the bottom of the pan where it starts dipping down to the sump had to be cut to clear the front of the subframe.

The sway bar barely cleared the front of the pan. However, this would not be good especially when the engine torques, it would hit the sway bar. So, with using some 3/8" spacers for the sway bar mounts to space it down, it clears perfectly fine.

[s14 2510's]

I have the stock pan on my rb26. We had to get a custom sway bar made. I'm rebuilding my engine right now and plan on running a few 1/4 mile runs. I would not chop up the 25 pan as there will be poor baffling. Unless you want it to spin bearings. I'm also going to put the tomei reducer in my head so too much oil will not pool in the head like they do from the factory. The 26 pan holds more oil. You can go with the 25 pan if it is going to be a carpet car. The 25 pan is way easier but not worth it in my mind. Why spend so much swapping an rb26 just too have it blow up in the long run. Rb parts are not cheap. We cut the diff off and had to shave some to get it to fit.

[gawdzilla]

im also concerned about the baffling that the 25 pan provides. however, the 25 motor ONLY has the 25 pan as baffling, which is why i'm thinking it is enough. i plan on running an accusump with it for some reassurance.

not really trying to take shortcuts for this solution, just I am doing this from my home garage and the lack of proper tools/fabrication makes it tougher.

[MODERN]

Its not the Diff that hits..... The front of the oil pan is totally different then the RB25. The big part in the front of the pan (RB26) is what hits. I have the RB26 oil pan in my S13, currently with no sway bar because of the pan (I haven't driven the car since then, so who needs it). But we did just did one on a S13. The gold S13 that was in Import Racer, we changed it to the RB26 pan and made a custom swaybar for it.

If you guys want i can take a pic tomorrow to show you that it does hit the sway bar area.........................

Grumpy

so do you have the pictures ?

[Scott Buwalda]

Hey guys:

It's been a damn long time since I've been here. Too busy working on other things I guess.

I saw this thread and thought I would bring it back to the top to make sure I didn't fubar something up...

I cut ALL of the baffles out of my RB25 pan, and successfully reinstalled the RB26 baffles that attach to the crank girdles. I had no fitment issues with the 26's girdle baffling. In looking at the RB26 sump, there is another row of baffling down there actually inside the pan. Can someone who's *completely sure* what they're talking about ensure that the pair of girdle baffles will be enough? Or should I plan on hacking my RB26 sump and using it?

Thanx,

Scott