Need help with wifes ride QUICK

[DaSouthWon]

01 Nissan Maxima, automatic, 3.0, 82k miles. Tonight on my way home I accelerated quickly from a stop sign to make a right hand turn. Under acceleration I felt the motor lose power but it did not die instantly. However, no matter how hard I pushed on the accelerator, it would not respond. The engine died shortly there after. Coasted in neutral to a parking lot, tried to crank the motor. It would start and run for just a few seconds, then the rpm's would flutter down until it died. It did this numerous times. So it is currently sitting in an empty parking lot begging come break out my windows and see whats inside. My first inclination was to think fuel pump. It builds enough pressure to crank but can't maintain it to keep the car running was my thought process. Secondly, I don't think the fuel filter has ever been changed. I seem to spend my time working on cars that I don't actually drive. Sorry babe. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks

[AZhitman]

Hey DSW.

I'd be looking at MAF first. Make sure it's plugged in well.

Next would be fuel pump and fuel filter.

Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key "ON" - (not to "Start")? Have someone in the trunk listening as you turn the key on...

[DaSouthWon]

I'm not sure that it would crank at all if I had no pressure. It almost sounds like its surging before it dies so it could be that the mass air is looking for the right mix. I get no response from the accelerator when it is dying, it seems to me that if it were the mass air sensor I would still get some response from the extra fuel and air even if the mix was wrong. I am not all that familiar with imports so I have no idea if the ecu cuts fuel off totally when the maf senses an overly rich mixture.

[AZhitman]

A bad fuel pump might still allow crank, as the system stays pressurized. Intermittent functionality could be JUST enough to pressurize the system.

MAF still sounds more likely tho.

[DaSouthWon]

Is it possible to check for codes without a scanner? I did notice that my overdrive light was flashing when I put it in neutral and tried to recrank it while I was still rolling. Does that mean anything?

[DaSouthWon]

I've cleaned the maf on my vette before (carefully) and it worked fine until I had to clean it again about a year later. Is it possible to clean the maf sensor on the maximas? I also see that you can check for codes by turning a screw on the back of the ecu on an altima. Does the same procedure work on the Maxima?

[AZhitman]

Yes and yes.

We're looking for the process for the Max right now.

For the MAF, just remove it and spray with MAF cleaner (or brake cleaner). Make sure you hit the filament.

[DaSouthWon]

If it does turn out to be a fuel pump, how hard is it to replace?

[Beancooker]

I have searched for an hour, trying to find how to get the codes without a scan tool. I found this but I don't think it will work for ouyr years of Maxima.

The blinking OD light is usually a code from the transmission control module. The CEL is when you get a code from the ECU.

You can try this, as far as finding out the transmission codes. Link: zerothread/213507

I am not sure if it will work or not, since the cars are a generation apart. I'll keep looking for you. If all else fails, you can pick up a cheap scan tool at Autozone for about $30.

[AZhitman]

If it does turn out to be a fuel pump, how hard is it to replace?

Not too bad. We can walk you through it.

[DaSouthWon]

I've got 7 psi of fuel pressure. What pump would you guys suggest I replace it with. I was considering maybe replacing the injectors and ecu while I do this if it would give any performance boost. any suggestions. I looked at the walbro site and it looks like they only make a model up to 94'. This is an 01

[DaSouthWon]

I also wanted to say thank you for all your help AZ and bean cooker. This is one of those times when I'm on a strict time clock to diagnose and fix. This time its so the wife can go to work tomorrow. Trying to track a pump down local with out paying stealership prices

[AZhitman]

I'd stick with an OEM pump... Maybe ship the injectors off to Deatschwerks (NICO sponsor) for cleaning / flow-matching / new seals).

[DaSouthWon]

I do get a 60-70% discount at NAPA. Have you ever used or had any luck with their lines of pumps?

[DaSouthWon]

do you know if the deatschwerks injector prices listed on their site are per injector or for the set of 6?

[AZhitman]

I do get a 60-70% discount at NAPA. Have you ever used or had any luck with their lines of pumps?

Nice deal - Should be fine, as long as it's an OEM equivalent.

Hell, at that discount, I'd buy all new injectors and sell your old ones.

[DaSouthWon]

Family benefits are great. Uncle is the regional manager over heavy duty truck parts. He comes in handy at times. Is it ok to flat tow this thing home? (spelled pull it with my truck). I was just looking for an excuse to give the wife to do a few upgrades to enhance performance a bit while I'm doing this. Don't most turbo kits include a fuel pump and injectors anyway?

[AZhitman]

If it's a manual, you can flat tow in Neutral.

If it's an automatic, it's a no-no... lift the front wheels.

[DaSouthWon]

It's less than 3 miles.

[MinisterofDOOM]

If it's an auto, I wouldn't risk it. It's not worth risking expensive transmission damage.

[DaSouthWon]

I agree, Just had it towed to the house. $55 but it beats a new trans. I'll just look at it as insurance to make myself feel better. Is there a release to get the back seat out?

[DaSouthWon]

do you guys have any suggestions on a basic performace upgrade while I'm doing this. Would like to get a little more power out of it with out tearing it apart. As stated above I was considering doing a pump, injector, regulator upgrade. Would I need to reprogram or replace my ecu to see any changes?

[MinisterofDOOM]

Here's the diagram for removing the rear seat:

http://is.rely.net/3-4-7242-l-...Q.jpg

[DaSouthWon]

AZ, I knew I should have listened to you. I believe you are probably right about the maf. I don't think the place where I had to "splice" in a fuel pressure gauge is giving an accurate reading. I got the car to crank last night without dying. I was able to rev the motor up slowly to about 2500 rpm with no issue as long as I did it slowly. It then threw a code, which I have yet to check, but will as soon as I get home. I did unplug the maf while it was running (after it picked up the code) and it actually seem to run a little smoother. All of this after I ordered the fuel pump of course

[DaSouthWon]

OK, I've been doing some reading and I think I would first like to test the voltage of the current MAF to make sure that, that is the issue. Whats the easiest way to do this? Secondly, I was considering putting in a z32 maf as a replacement. Is this as simple as replacing the part and wiring it correctly or do I need an adapter (apexi) and have to get the ecu reflashed? Lastly, does anyone know where you can purchase just the replacement element. I've looked for a couple hours and haven't found it. Thanks for everyones help.

[Beancooker]

You can purchace the part for the MAF, thru the stealership. I haven't found one anywhere else. I do believe it is the MAF, by the sound of the problem. Shouldn't need to reflash the ECU, and not easy to get Technosquare to work on the '01 anyways. I have no idea about the Z32 Maf, and how that is done? Sorry.

[maxhopper]

There is no need to purchase a Z32 MAF unless you plan on going forced induction.

The stock MAF is good for any bolt-on applications for your 3.0L.