Need Help/Opinion's

1980-1986 Datsun 720 forums. All 720-specific topics and discussion can be found here.
damn
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Joined: Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:13 pm
Car: 1986 Nissan 720 z24, Automatic trans

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My truck just suddenly started idling like crap! I had the idle set at 650rpm's and everything was good until day before yesterday now the idle is jumping from 700-1300 rpm's and sometimes it will die. Once i rev it up or start driving it drives fine!

The truck has a new distributor and rotor,plug's and a weber 34/34 with exactly 3.5psi of fuel pressure.

All vaccum lines have been disconnected except for the distributor advance.

I know the timing is off thats one thing i need to set but it ran fine.

1986 Kingcab z24 2bbl auto
Modified by damn at 6:01 PM 1/10/2010


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PEZi
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so it does run fine once driving... as in 100% fine?

i was gonna say it might be the headgasket... but i'm thinking no on that

check the baseplate of the carb and all other areas of it for vac leaks...

damn
Posts: 55
Joined: Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:13 pm
Car: 1986 Nissan 720 z24, Automatic trans

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PEZi720 wrote:so it does run fine once driving... as in 100% fine?

i was gonna say it might be the headgasket... but i'm thinking no on that

check the baseplate of the carb and all other areas of it for vac leaks...
Yeah once i start moving it run's like normal has good power and everything. I guess im going to have to pull the carburetor again and triple check for leak's.

I also pulled all the plug's yesterday and they didnt look quite right but that could be from the timing being off. I put some carb cleaner in the gas and filled up with 91 octain from a cheveron hopefully i could be a bad tank of gas.

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PEZi
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did you put the cleaner in the gas before or after this problem?

damn
Posts: 55
Joined: Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:13 pm
Car: 1986 Nissan 720 z24, Automatic trans

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PEZi720 wrote:did you put the cleaner in the gas before or after this problem?
Dude im stumped???

Yes i put the cleaner in after the problem...Truck still runs like crap at idle.

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PEZi
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is the 700-1300 idle cyclical? as in does it continue in the same pattern at all times?

if so... how much time are we talking in between each 'cycle'?

i had a similar issue a while back and it did end up being vacuum issue

dogred
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Car: 1983 D720

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Do you have a manual or automatic transmission? Manuals are supposed to have the idle set at 700 rpms.

Have you cleaned out the egr, or is it deleted?

Spray starting fluid on all your vaccum plugs (one at a time) to see if they are making a good seal.


damn
Posts: 55
Joined: Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:13 pm
Car: 1986 Nissan 720 z24, Automatic trans

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dogred wrote:Do you have a manual or automatic transmission? Manuals are supposed to have the idle set at 700 rpms.

Have you cleaned out the egr, or is it deleted?

Spray starting fluid on all your vaccum plugs (one at a time) to see if they are making a good seal.
It's an Automatic no leak's fromt he carb base and yes my egr is deleted. I found the problem...Rocker's needed to be adjusted! Pretty weird that it could suddenly start idling like s*** but

Went ahead and replaced the intake manifold gasket only to find out that i didnt seal it on right and it's burning coolant Lol im burned out on it today i will install a new gasket tomarrow and hopefully get it to seal this time!

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PEZi
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well its good to hear you got it running at least

damn
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Car: 1986 Nissan 720 z24, Automatic trans

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PEZi720 wrote:well its good to hear you got it running at least
Yeah but ive never seen any vehicle that had coolant passages running through the intake manifold before. It's smoking pretty bad right now white smoke but no water in the oil so tomarrow im going to see if i can get the gasket to seal better.

damn
Posts: 55
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Car: 1986 Nissan 720 z24, Automatic trans

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Well just an update...The truck still has a slight idle problem...Not as bad but yep it's not idling right. Im starting to look into the sensor's and emission's system to see what control's what.

Funny thing is you can disconnect the computer and 02 sensor on this truck and it will still run.

flinterman2000
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Car: 2000 Nissan Wingroad, 85 Datsun 720 Pick Up.

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Thats basically because it has a distributor and the fuel is controlled by vacuum.

damn
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Car: 1986 Nissan 720 z24, Automatic trans

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flinterman2000 wrote:Thats basically because it has a distributor and the fuel is controlled by vacuum.
Can you explain alittle more....The computer throttles back the fuel pump? How does it control fuel.

jtbenfie
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Joined: Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:48 pm
Car: 1983 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4. NAPSZ 2.0 5spd

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damn wrote:
Can you explain alittle more....The computer throttles back the fuel pump? How does it control fuel.
it barely can. the couple of electric selinoids in the carb allow it to shut off fuel completely or slow the flow down a little, but it is still a carb. it will run without the computer, maybe not well, but it will run.

Interesting that adjusting the valves fixed alot of the idle, my idle sucks....maybe its time for me to run the overhead.

flinterman2000
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Its still a carbed system. The computer only limits the supply of fuel to ensure not too much fuel is supplied for the throttle position. With out the computer the pump supplies the maximum amount of fuel it can and the carb does the rest. The venturi in the carb controls the amount of fuel atomized for combustion. Whether the computer is there or not the venturi controls the amount of fuel used through vacuum. The wider open the throttle the more vacuum, the more vacuum the more fuel used.

damn
Posts: 55
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So then with an aftermarket Weber 34/34 you dont need the computer.

flinterman2000
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No. But you should add a FPR if you don't have one.

damn
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Car: 1986 Nissan 720 z24, Automatic trans

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flinterman2000 wrote:No. But you should add a FPR if you don't have one.
I have one but it lowers my fuel pressure to below 2psi.

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PEZi
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see... mine lowers the fuel pressure... but not as low as yours... my guess is that it must be the difference in carbs

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turbojunker
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The carb shouldn't have anything to do with it. Your pump is probably stronger than his.

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PEZi
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that might be true... damn, what pump are you running?

dogred
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If you replace your carb does that delete the fuel air mixture silenoid? Did you check to see if your cat is clogged?

damn
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PEZi720 wrote:that might be true... damn, what pump are you running?
Stock pump.....With out a FPR the psi is between 3.5-4psi with the FPR set at 3.5psi the pressure will drop to around 2psi if i set the FPR to 5.5psi only then does it go to right below 3.5psi.

Im not running cat's

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PEZi
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damn wrote:
Stock pump....
i'm wondering if this might be the reason

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turbojunker
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damn wrote:
Stock pump.....With out a FPR the psi is between 3.5-4psi with the FPR set at 3.5psi the pressure will drop to around 2psi if i set the FPR to 5.5psi only then does it go to right below 3.5psi.

Im not running cat's
What kind of FPR do you have? I ran one of the dial type ones on an RX7 I had and the markings on it were completely inaccurate.

flinterman2000
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PEZi720 wrote:see... mine lowers the fuel pressure... but not as low as yours... my guess is that it must be the difference in carbs
It's not the carb. It's the FPR or the fuel pump.
dogred wrote:If you replace your carb does that delete the fuel air mixture silenoid? Did you check to see if your cat is clogged?
Yes it would. Webbers do not have idle or fuel air solenoids.

damn
Posts: 55
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Car: 1986 Nissan 720 z24, Automatic trans

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turbojunker wrote:
What kind of FPR do you have? I ran one of the dial type ones on an RX7 I had and the markings on it were completely inaccurate.
It was a cheap silver dial one probably isnt accurate at all.
flinterman2000 wrote:It's not the carb. It's the FPR or the fuel pump.

Yes it would. Webbers do not have idle or fuel air solenoids.
Ok so today i went and took a good look at all the factory set settings on the carburetor. My carb is a progressive meaning both barrel's are supposed to open at the same time. Found that they were not doing that. The secondary wouldnt start to open until the primary shaft had already turned about 90" so i turned the screw clockwise which open's the blade on the secondary barrel and my idle started to clear up.

Before when i would rev the engine there would be a hesitation i think it was becuase the primary was opening and the seconadry was lagging behind and from what i understand the carburetor shoot's enough fuel for both barrel's opening at the same time.

The idle is now much more stable! I hope it last's and maybe this was my problem the carburetor was supplying enough fuel at idle for both barrel's to be slightly cracked but the secondary was closed..Im going to drive it for a few day's and see if anything changes.

I also disconnected the computer.

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PEZi
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you have the 34 right?

i get what you're saying but its synchronous... not progressive... progressives are the ones with different sized barrels... and technically on yours there is no primary or secondary... they work at the same time all the time (thus the name synchronous)

and yes... if both sides are synchronized properly it will run MUCH better... took me a while to dial in

dogred
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flinterman2000 wrote:It's not the carb. It's the FPR or the fuel pump.

Yes it would. Webbers do not have idle or fuel air solenoids.
Thanks for the info.

dogred
Posts: 205
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Car: 1983 D720

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damn wrote:
It was a cheap silver dial one probably isnt accurate at all.

Ok so today i went and took a good look at all the factory set settings on the carburetor. My carb is a progressive meaning both barrel's are supposed to open at the same time. Found that they were not doing that. The secondary wouldnt start to open until the primary shaft had already turned about 90" so i turned the screw clockwise which open's the blade on the secondary barrel and my idle started to clear up.

Before when i would rev the engine there would be a hesitation i think it was becuase the primary was opening and the seconadry was lagging behind and from what i understand the carburetor shoot's enough fuel for both barrel's opening at the same time.

The idle is now much more stable! I hope it last's and maybe this was my problem the carburetor was supplying enough fuel at idle for both barrel's to be slightly cracked but the secondary was closed..Im going to drive it for a few day's and see if anything changes.

I also disconnected the computer.
Yeah lots of people try to return that type of FPR because they are never correct.


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