Need help building a race KA24DE N/A !! Track Rules included!!!

[Killer B Racing]

Hi,

I'm building a 95 s14 for stock car racing on a high banked 3/8 mile asphalt track. I'll need to squeeze about 190hp to be competative.I've had great success with my stock s13 KA24e stock car but if i'm going move up to the pro4's I'll need to get more power. I just keep finding turbo's and related parts.Hopfully someone has some none turbo/nos info available.I have included the track rules .

thanks!!

1. Stock OEM for year and model of car used. Maximum 2500 cc engines. NO turbo engines orsuper charged engines allowed. Only 4 cylinder engines allowed. No dual plug cylinder headsallowed. ALL ENGINE PARTS MUST BE STOCK OEM. All engine parts including stockreplacement parts or aftermarket parts where allowed MUST maintain stock OEM weight andspecs and must be COMPLETELY STOCK UNALTERED. This means NO boring, stroking,porting, polishing, lightening, deflashing, glass bending, sandblasting, abrasive cleaning, chemical(acid) milling, etc allowed anywhere in or on engine parts. No internal painting or coatings (i.e.Teflon) of any type allowed. No engine balancing. 2.3 Ford single over head cam two valves percylinder only one spark plus per cylinder max over bore .040 maximum flat top or OEM dishpiston only normal OEM type engine balancing. Bore and balancing allowed ONLY on the 2.3Ford engine.2. Location: Must remain in stock position.3. Compression: Maximum compression is 9.5:1 checked with the “whistler”. No tolerance allowedon maximum compression.4. Crankshaft: Must be stock OEM, maintain stock stroke. No lightening or knife edging allowed.5. Pistons: Must be stock OEM or exact replacement.6. Rods: Stock OEM Only. Aftermarket rod bolts allowed.7. Camshaft: Aftermarket camshaft allowed. The maximum lift at the valve with zero lash willbe .465”.8. Rockers / Followers: Stock OEM only. No roller rockers / roller tips even if stock OEM! Stockratio for engine used, rocker studs may be oversized.9. Valve Lifters: Must be solid only. No roller lifters if stock OEM.10. Cylinder Head: Stock OEM production head only.11. Valves: Must be stock OEM or direct replacement only. No pro flo or polished valves allowed.Aftermarket stock diameter valve springs allowed. Steel valve spring retainers only.12. Valve Job: Multi angle valve job permitted. The bottom cut of the valve job may not exceed3/8” in to the valve pocket. The 3/8” bottom cut will be measured from the top of the cut uponwhich the valve is seated.13. Intake Manifold: Must be completely stock and unaltered.14. Carburetor: The Holley 350 CFM, 2 BBL carburetor part # 0-7448 is the only carburetor allowed.The carburetor must be “stock out of the box”. All carburetors must pass NASCAR gauges.The only changes that will be allowed are as follows: the choke plate and shaft may beremoved, jets, power valve, accelerator pump cam and accelerator pump discharge nozzlesmay be changed. Idle holes may be drilled in the butterflies. No other changes allowed. Noreshaping, polishing, grinding or drilling allowed. No adjustable (jetted) air bleeds or circuits.Gaskets must remain unaltered. No “HP” parts allowed. No chrome carburetors.15. Carburetor Spacer / Adaptor: One solid material spacer / adapter, maximum height of 1”permitted. No wedge shape spacers / adapters allowed. Both the top and bottom surfaces must beparallel. The porthole may not be tampered to meet the stock intake opening. No additionalopening for the induction of air allowed. Only one .075” gasket per side of spacer allowed.16. Fuel Injection: Must be stock for the year, make and model of car being used (strictlyenforced). Fuel pressure is not to exceed 45 PSI. This will be strictly enforced.17. Air Cleaner / Filter: The air cleaner top and bottom must be metal. All air cleaners are subject totrack approval. No ducts, baffles or anything that may control airflow allowed on or in the aircleaner assembly. All air entering the carburetor must pass thru the air filter. No air boxes. Ashield may be used on the front outer half of the element if placed directly on the element. Aircleaners must remain under the hood and made of paper.Holland Motorsports Complex 2009 General Information and Pro Four Rules 2118. Fuel: Must be petroleum based or synthetic automotive gasoline only. Gasoline shall not beblended with alcohol, ethers or other oxygenates propylene oxide, aniline or its derivatives,nitro compounds or nitrogen containing compounds. No additives that enhance horsepower.The use of stock unleaded fuel sold at local gasoline station is allowed. Fuel will be tested.19. Fuel Pump: Electric fuel pump allowed but must be enclosed in a steel box under the car.Fuel pump must be as close to the fuel cell as possible. The fuel pump must be tied in withthe oil pressure switch, no oil – no fuel.20. Exhaust Manifold: Stock OEM only. No modifications allowed. No headers allowed.Maximum outside diameter of the exhaust pipe will be 2-1/2”. Exhaust must exit 6” past thedriver’s seat, under the car.21. Mufflers: Mandatory! Max 2.5 inlet and outlet.22. Oil Coolers: Not permitted.23. Ignition: Stock OEM.24. Computers: Computers must be stock OEM and only for the make, year and model. No crossingof makes and models. No altering on board computers or electric control units (ECU).

[locoluna825]

This sucks!!!! you cant do anything. i guess thats why its called stock car racing...

i dont know much about racing but here are my thoughts

Go with a CAMSHAFT, a light WEIGHT FLY WHEEL. ,and how about an ALUMINUM ONE PIECE DRIVE SHAFT. ELECTRIC FANS delete that clutch fan!!Also get rid of the power steering, and AC. Run nothing but your alternator. i see nothing about under drive pulleys!!! Get rid of your resonator...? (is that alloweed)

I think i know of a way to get by with sort of an ignition system. theres these things called Pulse Plugs. there pretty neat there just plugs that run on your stock ignition system. but there way better (sort of expensive) worth looking them up.
Modified by locoluna825 at 10:04 PM 9/22/2009

[Klits562]

good luck getting an all stock 240 too 190hp with no mods and no weight reduction.

I've been wondering if pulse star plugs were as good as they said they were. I know they have a huge spark and burn fuel more completely but are they really good?

oh also my friend was telling me about a "dry sump" my friend explained it to me but idr exactly what he said i know it has to do with your oil and you can run an oil cooler through the sump lines along with other stuff good it i didnt read everything in your post it was to long so if you can google dry sumps and see if you can do itmy friend said adding a dry sump to you car can add some horses maybe someone else can clarify
Modified by Klits562 at 11:37 PM 9/22/2009

[locoluna825]

ill let you know im ordering some next month. they claim on all there 4 cylinder specs like up to 12% better fuel economy and like the same foe horsepower. i don't think there's anything in there about stripping your interior though. but ditch your spare tire and anything else in the trunk for sure

[Klits562]

12% more horsepower? interestingya seriously let me know i got ngk's right now and my car fires up real nice

[locoluna825]

i currently do as well. Go to there site read the charts on there, doesn't look like they do much for v6 and v8's but i see it looks worth it for a 4 cylinder
Modified by locoluna825 at 11:45 PM 9/22/2009

[Klits562]

seen they're articles in a magazine at my doctors lol and if the charts are true then ya it seems they could have some nice performance increasehow much are they? i guess it couldnt hurt to try.

[locoluna825]

kinda expensive there 100 dollars for a set of 4 but there supposed to be equal to performance ignition system. which are about 400 dollars for the coil, distributor and wires you know. so i guess it wouldn't hurt to try them. plus there satisfaction is guaranteed so if you don't like them you can send them back for your money back. the numbers are an average of 4-7 percent in fuel economy and an average of 4-12 percent in torque increase.

[Klits562]

nice and they'll work good with a stock coil too?damn this was a total thread jack hahahaowell i dont even have money to finish my car let alone buy 100 dollar plugs i dont need :P

[locoluna825]

yea they were designed for stock cars. but heyll work with upgrades too from what i read. lol sorry killer B for being way off subject . bad us!

[Klits562]

lol well not exactly i mean we are talking about a product that could help his car go faster for his stock car race

[Killer B Racing]

THANKS GUYS,

THSES ARE FULL ROLLCAGED TYPE CARS ALMOST LIKE NASCAR.

[locoluna825]

so you can gut it then

[1KleenS13]

Can you use Lexan for the windows? Also go fiberglass of CF for hood and trunk. Take as much unsprung weight off the car as you can. Drill holes in front core support. Electric water pump. Remove heat and AC system. What type of fuel can you run? I would get cams, valve springs, anything titanium that can go in the valve train. If you can run race fuel, I would play with the timing. Get cams that will make there power up top. and if all else fails.............CHEAT. If your not cheating your not trying.

[Killer B Racing]

COMPLETELY GUTTED, HOOD,DOORS,ROOF ,QUARTERS,HATCH,AND ALL THE PILLARS. ITS JUST THE SKIN OF A 240SX W/THE LOWER FRAME RAILS AND STRUT TOWERS. ALL THE ACCESORIES GET PITCHED, I ONLY RUN AN ELECTRIC FAN. I HAVE ALL THAT COVERED . THERES GOT TO BE A WAY TO MAKE MORE HP @ 6500-7000+RPM.

[Vegascorbin]

Only problem I see is that your racing on asphalt not dirt

Your rules sound pretty much like those at other tracks, but how much do they REALLY check? If you have Tech guys that really do look and know what they are looking at then about all you can do is work with the cams and the timing.

I would work more on getting 100% of the horsepower you do have to the track. Ensure that your alignment is good and adjust the camber etc. Can you adjust the rear toe to mhelp it through the corners?

The biggest baddest engine rairly wins a circle track race, but the better driver does. You may just have to out drive them. Use the torque the KA has to your advantage.

What about reworking hte gears? I would guess that is just as restricted.Try running with as little a windscreen as they will let you to cut wind resistance. If you run short races, eliminate the altinator and run off the battery. A good charge will last for at a supriseing long time and still have power to start the car etc.

On spark plugs just remember that you are not going for better running you are going for better power. A plug that you may not want in your regular car may be perfect for the track and visa versa.

Good luck and keep the fenders straight and off the wall

[Killer B Racing]

personally I'm gettin kinda sick of asphalt racing but thats what we are set up to do.

On Dirt in the north eastern states the front wheel and rear wheel cars run in separate classes because the twin cam cavaliers and grand ams kick the crap out of them.the mustangs get toasted..

how well does your car do on dirt ? i'm kinda interested in some set up info.

our Division is actually a nascar class called the PRO 4's, its quite a step above the usual mini stocks. they run as fast if not faster than our 325 hp street stock guys. low 17's

we can run up to -/+ 5 deg camber , lots of caster split,modified strut towers, 2 inch back spacing racing wheels (I run Bart Wheels), racing slicks,poly bushings,etc.

Those darn Acura guys fly when they can keep the rt front tire on..but I think I can get this 240 to be more competative if I can squeeze out some more top end . ya gotta run'm down exiting the turns & on the straight aways so ya can get a fender underneath them in the next turn.

I've seen some cam kits out there ,just wondering if anybody had performance numbers

[Klits562]

isnt one of the regulations that you have to be at stock oem weight? so wouldnt gutting your car and carbon fibering this and that bring you bellow oem weight? or am i missing something here

[dimedriver]

You can turn the timing up by turning the Distributor advance. Also how do they define no electrical modification to the ECU. A chip is a software mod not a hardware mod. I would turn the timing up in software not hardware(distributor) if you can. Moving the rev limit up when you get it chipped will help.

Also remove the Swirl control valves or get the ODBII intake.

Have the Head Decked increase Comp Ratio 9.5 is the limit so a stock DOHC is really close if not right on.

Can you do the .040 over bore? or is that only for fords?

Get a bigger throttle body off the V6 nissan trucks.

Race gas plus turning up the timing will get you something.

I wouldn't mess with those power plugs. The Stock Ignition on the 240 is pretty good decades ahead of what the carbed V8 guys are running.

Oh when you get your valve job done have the head CC'ed and combustion chamber volume matched. This is done by sinking the valves by taking extra martial off during the valve job. Then you have to tune the spark plugs by checking to see if any of them have threads that stick into the combustion chamber. If they do double up the washers on that spark plug. Remember to all ways double the washers on that spark plug too.

-Avery

[locoluna825]

18. Fuel: Must be petroleum based or synthetic automotive gasoline only. Gasoline shall not beblended with alcohol, ethers or other oxygenates propylene oxide, aniline or its derivatives,nitro compounds or nitrogen containing compounds. No additives that enhance horsepower.The use of stock unleaded fuel sold at local gasoline station is allowed. Fuel will be tested.

no racing gas says da rulez, i would have the ecu re tuned they cant tell. i think>_>

try PDM for a cam they have some ones that will meet the requirements. as for numbers, they don't have any.

On spark plugs just remember that you are not going for better running you are going for better power. A plug that you may not want in your regular car may be perfect for the track and visa versa.

and i would definitely waste my time with those pulse plugs, IF YOU HAVE THE MONEY. A car that runs better, performs better.
Modified by locoluna825 at 7:19 PM 9/23/2009

[Vegascorbin]

.... A car that runs better, performs better.

Modified by locoluna825 at 7:19 PM 9/23/2009

Generaly yes. But at times you may get better power at the cost of fuel efficency. Fuel efficency is not a big concern on an oval.

We run on a 3/8 mile dirt track in a Mini-stock class. other than safety we pretty much can't change anything.

Our best time so far is 20.85 and that was with a bent left front strut.

you can see more at http://www.bigmonkeyracing.com(1st try at a web site so please be gentle)

[Frankenfourty]

Looks like you are allowed to use a different camshaft. Other than that I was going to suggest being sneaky and running alcohol and bump up compression to 14:1. But there are two rules that cover that. Other than that the only other things you could do is run crazy low piston ring gaps (do this with caution though). Stock rings have alot of gap (being relative). So running a lower gap will get u holding better compression. And just to be clear is this a circle track you are running?

[Killer B Racing]

Yes it is a Circle track. We have a local gas station that sells "pump" race fuel I believe its about 101-104 proof.

[Vegascorbin]

How about rear end gears or trans gears?

[dimedriver]

Can you use total seal piston rings?

http://www.totalseal.com/

No gap!

-Avery

[Frankenfourty]

Can you use total seal piston rings?

http://www.totalseal.com/

No gap!

-Avery

Thats what im talking about. Good find. I would suggest taking it to an engine shop that is well versed in race engines. Since you will be spending alot of time in high RPM's, the extra heat could cause these rings to expand too much making the ends touch and that is very bad. Otherwise I dont know how serious you are into this sport but some people hit the gym and loose weight during race season. This could help considering how strict the rules are, otherwise I wouldnt even worry about it. Also, there is about 1-2 hp that is freed up buy using full synthetic fluids in everything, engine, trans, differential.

[Killer B Racing]

the gearing is good I can get it up to 7grand in 3rd, but the ka24 falls on its face over 5800 rpm. The motor is best suited for low torque Tractor Pulling instead of stock car racing.

Is there a better motor option like the sr20de?I believe that it is 160hp stock and may respond better to cams and mild head work.

what will those piston rings do to the compression if checked by the track..

[Killer B Racing]

isnt one of the regulations that you have to be at stock oem weight? so wouldnt gutting your car and carbon fibering this and that bring you bellow oem weight? or am i missing something here

2450 lbs for the twin cam 2.4 and 2400 for the single 2.4, if I run the sr20de I could go down to around 2100 Lbs . we are also allowed to add balsat to the left side to make weight.

[dimedriver]

With or without driver. SCCA ITC for the 510 is with driver something around 1950lbs or so. 2450 is kinda on the heavy side. Your going to need cams that build power up high and have no bottom end. Something that will not be fun to drive to the track. I know back during the hight of the import tunner craze there were a number of shops doing custom cam grinds for nearly any 4 banger. You should see if any of those are still around and get something ground that does not make power till 5k and puts the peak right on the red line. This Cam will probably have a lot of lag in the power from idle up to 4500 or so. It may also require chipping of the ECU and modding of injectors. The tips can be shaved off the DOHC injectors to make them flow more. They will still "look" stock after you do this but flow around 2x as much fuel.

Make sure you tank your intake. Most of the intakes I have taken off of Nissan and nearly every other car are filled with all kinds of s*** to choke air flow. This usually builds up from the EGR systems and crappy air filters. Kinda like plaque building up in arteries on those new plavix commercials.

You don't need those power plug things. There are NA KA24 SOHC's with carbs making 200+ hp with points replacement ignition systems. Still using points style coils. Those coils are limited to 40k volts. The coil on the 240sx is at least a 60k volt coil. I have not measured the resistance on it but I'm pretty sure its well under 1 Ohm. Points style coils are 3 Ohms and up. Why do you think the igniter for the ka24 is so expensive?

Oh thats another trick I have never herd of the igniters over heating but you can take a thin sheet of aluminum and some cpu heat sync compound and sandwich that under the igniter to help keep it cooler.

Run a cooler thermostat(150-160) too so you can run more timing advance.-Avery

[liquid_cool]

you need to get duel springs with those cams..and take the 4thgear limiter and the OD limiters off..well clip the wires..'

the duel springs are allowed by your rules..but you cannot have Ti retainers..so just use the oem ones and steel seats...at least this will let you peg her at redline and not float a valve into the pistons...the BC stage 3 cams (272's) are a upper end cam..you can see if the valve lift will meet specs for your rules..they have the same wieght i believe..or close...you may allso think about a skinny tire selecton..friction = drag=loss of speed...skinnyer tire may decrease your drag ratio...it is allso possible to run a larger tire size in the rear....larger the tire..the longer the distance it travels per- rotation..ie speed...it does not say didly about a catalitic converter..check your rules carefully..if it dosent..scrap it..thats a good 5hp or more there....i myself would keep the altinator ..but ditch the battery insted by running external jumper plugs..same as charging jacks for drag cars..then you only need to jump it for the start..the altinator will do the rest..but i would..run the smallest altinator i could get my hands on...id even think about swappin trannys..like 5 speed for the 6 speed..if you can make it look oem..there is not much else i can think of..other than a sr20de..you can just say its a japanese modle..lol