Near end of my overhaul, I need help!
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DjPantsSpecR
- Posts: 1711
- Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:49 pm
- Car: 93 Nissan MS13
92 Nissan RMS13
i just thought of this, remember when you noted that your crank pulley was 20 degrees off? if you installed your cams going by that then that is obviously your problem. even if you didnt this is still a cam timing problem.
regardless of any sensor when you spray fuel into compressed air and light it it will explode and this will happen at least a few times, so you know you have fuel and fire. You should have checked your cams a month ago
regardless of any sensor when you spray fuel into compressed air and light it it will explode and this will happen at least a few times, so you know you have fuel and fire. You should have checked your cams a month ago
But that is what I am saying, I do not have fuel. You see, I have a straight exhaust with no cat. When I crank on it, it should stink like gas coming out. It does not. So, my options are: severely clogged injectors or a bad FPR. I have a Megan FPR to install when I find the time (just started school), and I will see if I can con my new boss to let me pressure flush the injectors and get new screens as a 'training excercise', if nothing else just pay the cost of materials, and replace or remove the screens. I do not know if I mentioned this earlier, but the EGI relay got very hot while cranking, I replaced it with the condensor fan relay, and it stayed cool, but still no start. Anyway, I get 12V at the pump constant and a 7V signal on the other lead. My injector and harness tester tell me that the injectors are capable of pulsing, and the signal is being sent. With the injectors hooked up, when I pull and turn the distributor, they click, so they are pulsing. It is a brand new Walbro pump, and the lines get hard. So, fuel is making it to the regulator, but either it is being sent back to the tank or the injectors are too clogged to use it. Also, when you set cam timing, it has nothing to do with the pulley, since it should be off anyway when you are coordinating the crank to the idler sprocket. Once that is done, it is just a matter of lining up the dots to the colored links. Or in my case doing that on the exhaust and turning the intake 4 teeth (using dual 248s)
I should hope the pump is not bad, it is a brand new Walbro, and I have voltage at the pump, unless it falls off upon cranking. I don't know, I want to install my FPR, which has a gauge on it, that will be how I check pressure. But I am in college, and there is very little time between that and writing a speech on the benefits of direct injection as it relates to fuel conservation.
Do you not see the funny in what you just said? You can not figure out why your car is not getting fuel, yet your going to write a speech on the benifits of fuel delivery???...LMAO
Sorry guy,but you opened the door..lol
Check for ground at the pump see if you have a good ground, but getting a pressure reading is probably the best place to start.
Did you want me to help you write the speech?sorry.
Sorry guy,but you opened the door..lol
Check for ground at the pump see if you have a good ground, but getting a pressure reading is probably the best place to start.
Did you want me to help you write the speech?sorry.
No, nailed the speech 39/40 pts. And yes I do see the irony of that particular situation. But I can't find anyone to rent a pressure tester, and I am not in any place to buy one right now. So, what I am thinking is that I know the size of the line coming from the tank, and if I can measure the volume over time, then I will be able to derive pressure. So, I will probably try that. If that gets me nowhere, then I will just have to break down and buy the tester (or sell my car).
See if you have an auto zone in the area. They tend to loan tools. Also I know there are several nico members in you neck of the woods. Have you tried posting in either general or regional forums asking if anyone has one you can borrow?
Congrats on your speech. But this is a prime example of how something looks good on paper but in a real world application it doesnt always work. This is why new model cars have bugs. When the engineers put it down on paper it worked. But when put to actual use it falls flat on its face. So in retrospect your direct injection idea/speech may not actually work out in real world terms. As the writer of the artical though you have an obligation to argue its feesability until proven wrong. Because it works on paper.
Congrats on your speech. But this is a prime example of how something looks good on paper but in a real world application it doesnt always work. This is why new model cars have bugs. When the engineers put it down on paper it worked. But when put to actual use it falls flat on its face. So in retrospect your direct injection idea/speech may not actually work out in real world terms. As the writer of the artical though you have an obligation to argue its feesability until proven wrong. Because it works on paper.
No, my car is still dino-juice, but fast! (ON PAPER), Autozone does not rent them, I work at NAPA, and we don't rent jack. I can get it for 36, but remember, I'm in school. So I will just use Bernoulli's Thereom. Fill up a cup, knowing flow, time, and size of the fuel line, I can find pressure. Then I will take my injectors into work and clean them SONICALLY, sonically, sonically (anyone else hear the echo?).
I AM MOLECULO - THE MOLECULAR MAN!
I AM MOLECULO - THE MOLECULAR MAN!
First thing, BUMP! Just tried to check my pressure via Bernouli's Law, and guess what, My pressure is 0. I know this this because over 10 seconds, I have 0 GPM. So if:PSI * GPM------------- 1714
THEN IT STILL EQUALS 0!!!
Then I jumped past the relay with a paperclip, still 0!
So that said, this is a freshman mistake. I know I have voltage to the connector to the pump, but I have not checked continuity to the pump. But if I were a betting man, I would bet either: 1) I have continuity, and the pump is wired backwards (One was orange, one was black, and it's not German), 2) I have a seriously bad connection. Of course, in my defense, I did not have fuel before. So, I may have a more serious issue, but definately electrical. I will let you know more as I know. If you have any ideas of common issues (or uncommon ones) let me know.
THEN IT STILL EQUALS 0!!!
Then I jumped past the relay with a paperclip, still 0!
So that said, this is a freshman mistake. I know I have voltage to the connector to the pump, but I have not checked continuity to the pump. But if I were a betting man, I would bet either: 1) I have continuity, and the pump is wired backwards (One was orange, one was black, and it's not German), 2) I have a seriously bad connection. Of course, in my defense, I did not have fuel before. So, I may have a more serious issue, but definately electrical. I will let you know more as I know. If you have any ideas of common issues (or uncommon ones) let me know.
Ok so the fuel lines are not getting hard as you previously thought, this is obvious as you had 0 gpm. Did any fuel come out of the line when you took it off? Go back to the ground mentioned earlier. At your pump use a volt meter to check for power and ground. You say you have the power. so Its the ground you need to determine. Note the pump will only activate when you first turn the key to on for 5 secs. Then it wont come on again till you crank the engine over. So you will only see the voltage for a few seconds. Your ground should be constant. or you could have it wired backwards as you mentioned.
THIS IS BUSCH LEAGUE! So, I checked to make sure the relay was clicking - check! Checked the voltage at the pump - check! Installed the spare computer I have (28 in place of a 24, but whatev). NO START!Then I pulled the pump and hooked it up, turned the key. Whirred like a dream. Checked all the grounds and connections at the pump - check.Put the pump back in, but without the lines installed - made a huge mess of fuel. So that's good. I assumed that I may have inadvertantly fixed the problem, NO START! So I pulled the line off of the filter - nothing. "How can I not have fuel coming out of the filter", I thought. I pulled the line before the filter, made a mess. So like I said - BUSCH LEAGUE. It is a new filter, but aparently it was somehow clogged. It is for a 300zx, but I installed it correctly. So, I have a new filter, this time for the 240 (which, at least in WIX brand has a larger outlet, and the same inlet as the 300 - Why is 300 better?) So, I will install it tommorrow. Besides my girlfriend totalled her TSi, so she need a car. I have my Cannondale. I will update you guys.
Dude dont feel that way. Some of the best techs out there have this exact thing happen to them. The assumption is made the new part is ok and they move on to other possibilities only to come back and find out the new part was defective. Let me tell you in the world of flat rate pay that thoroughly sucks cause you cant really charge the customer for the amount of hours wasted diagnosing other stuff when it was a defective part all along.
Okay, now I am too frustrated. I removed the old filter and it poured gas out. I blew through it, no problem. Installed the new filter, still no fuel. I even went as far as to leave it disconnected, and crank the car, nothing. So, here is the deal, the car gets fuel to the filter, and I know it pumps (at least directly from the tank. And it pumps a ton of fuel at from there, so somewhere between the tank and the filter I think I have an issue. Or is it possible that it does not pump well enough to travel upward all the way to the other side of the filter. Nistech, I could use some insight. It is a brand-new Walbro 255, I have checked all of my connectors and it's got continuity and runs. I am wondering if I shouldn't just take off the lines blow compressed air through the line, and then hardwire the pump. Would it be a hazardous to shoot air through the line. Anyone know of a good link on hardwiring the pump? I used to have one, but lost it. I was going to hardwire it anyway for when I turbo, but I may be doing it now.
This is an old school problem but give it a shot. pull off your fuel cap and try to start it. I am wondering if you possibly have vapor lock.
If that doesnt work do you have your old pump? It sounds as if your pump doesnt have enough force to push it up to the rail. You could try putting your old one back in and see if that works.
If that doesnt work do you have your old pump? It sounds as if your pump doesnt have enough force to push it up to the rail. You could try putting your old one back in and see if that works.
I was thinking vapor lock too, but 1) shouldn't an injected pump have enough pressure to overcome it (assuming it is good, but I guess some GMs and Chryslers do have that problem) 2) I had the line disconnected and turned the key, shouldn't that be enough to get it to spray? Or do I just misunderstand what vapor lock is?
vapor lock is when the tank has no way to gain fresh air and it creates a vaccum in the tank which gets lower when the fuel tries to exit the tank. All cars have 2 ways of drawing air into the tank, one is a constant vent , that is called your evap canister vent hose. the second is a relief on the cap it self. normally it stays sealed but if a vaccum is generated on the back of the cap it will allow air to come in[ check valve]
Okay, here are the new observations. Pulled off the gas cap, and got no hiss of any kind (but remember, I no longer have evap and the line is not capped off). On the O-ring in the cap, there were a ton of crystals of some sort, I can only assume this has to do with it being kind of old fuel. When I removed the line from the bottom of the filter this time, there was no fuel in it, which there was when I removed the line. I know the pump is pumping (see previous comment about making a fuel mess, when pump line was disconnected), because I have seen and heard it do it. So I can only assume that my problem is somewhere between the fuel filter and the fuel pump. Does this seem reasonable? I think it does, but how would I get a blockage in there? I guess I could have somehow crushed them, but I don't think so and I hope not. Also, knowing what I do, odds are terrific that if I did, there would be a leak, right? Upon quick visual inspection there were no leaks. I hate to question what I think I know, but anymore, I am running out of ideas.
One more question, that I asked earlier was: "If I use compressed air to try to clear the line, will it be a fire hazard?" My thinking is this, I will take the fuel filter off, and take the line off of the pump. Then I will put the blow gun end into the line and shoot about 150lbs through the line to clear any blockages. My main fear is that this will help to atomize the air and make for a huge fire hazard, but I am running out of ideas. Please let me know if any of you have any ideas.
One more question, that I asked earlier was: "If I use compressed air to try to clear the line, will it be a fire hazard?" My thinking is this, I will take the fuel filter off, and take the line off of the pump. Then I will put the blow gun end into the line and shoot about 150lbs through the line to clear any blockages. My main fear is that this will help to atomize the air and make for a huge fire hazard, but I am running out of ideas. Please let me know if any of you have any ideas.
The more I think about it, the more absurd it seems that the nearly 3/8" line would be clogged to the point the pump won't function. So tommorrow, I will pick up some wires and connectors from work, and I will hardwire the pump, and with any luck I can't screw that up, like I must have screwed up the pump.