N/A waterline Delete

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
nick1809
Posts: 239
Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 5:30 pm
Car: 1991 300zx 2+0 n/a slick top

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So, I'm in the process of deleting my throttle body waterlines. I have all the lines under the plenum removed, and I cant figure out which ones I need to plug, and just for the reassurance, I thought I'd ask you guys which ones i should plug. I can supply pictures if someone wants to just take it into paint and highlight it for me. Or if you have some from this question already being asked elsewhere (that i couldn't find... i used the search and a quick Google.) it would be greatly appreciated.

thanks guys,

Nick


GerryO
Posts: 974
Joined: Fri Feb 09, 2007 11:47 am
Car: 1993 J30t
Pearl White
Black Interior

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One coolant line heats the Air Regulator Valve, lowering engine idle speed as the engine warms up. With it disconnected/removed, warm engine idle drops only when the car (J30t) is fully stopped with a foot on the brake, even after driving 100+ non-stop freeway miles. I haven't yet re-installed it, and looped the two heater inlet tube connections to the two heater outlet tube connections. I also left all metal vacuum lines in place.

Image

aroche25
Posts: 195
Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:46 pm
Car: 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Looking for a Z32 Slicktop
Location: Florida

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nick1809
Posts: 239
Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 5:30 pm
Car: 1991 300zx 2+0 n/a slick top

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oh my god... thank you sooo much!!! hhahaha, that helps a f*** ton!

aroche25
Posts: 195
Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:46 pm
Car: 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Looking for a Z32 Slicktop
Location: Florida

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Yeah im doing this to mine too, but im having the small water pipes cut and welded shut so i don't have to do the hose looping or ever deal with them again.

nick1809
Posts: 239
Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 5:30 pm
Car: 1991 300zx 2+0 n/a slick top

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aroche25 wrote:Yeah im doing this to mine too, but im having the small water pipes cut and welded shut so i don't have to do the hose looping or ever deal with them again.
good idea. haha. i dont wanna take too long getting mine back together, so im just capping and clamping them. lol

demonZ73
Posts: 63
Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 6:20 pm
Car: 1990 nissan 300zx n/a

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ok i am doing this same thing on the same car (non turbo) and have done alot of reading and studying however still a little confused oviously i dont have to worry about the entire like 9 feet of hose to re-connect the turbos and whatever i have narowed that down. and i know i have to cap the 2 inlets and outlets on the throttle boddys correct??? but my question is what els to i have to re-connect or cap i read what Gerryo said like 4 times but i still dont understand it if someone els could please explain a liitle better (no offence at all Gerryo, and all the pics i clicked on on this post are not working) i also did a EGR delete, now all those small hoses and hard metal pipes that basically almost covered the EGR, is that part of the bypass and do i get rid of all this????................thanks alot

nick1809
Posts: 239
Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 5:30 pm
Car: 1991 300zx 2+0 n/a slick top

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the pics dont work becausethey are hosted on 300zxclub.com and you have to login there to see them, i dont understand that part but im a member there too. but, for the waterline delete, you dont have to cap the tb lines as there are no fluids coming from there. but the other four lines (that you have to plug) are near the back of the engine, the 1st three lines are on the passenger side of the motor, they are pretty obvious, the 3rd one has a small amount of rubber tubing on it that has to be removed so you can plug it, but thats easy. the 4th plug, i dont have that one done yet. haha. that one is on the drivers side of the motor under the big brake booster vacuum line. hope that helps. its pretty awkward to explain. haha

demonZ73
Posts: 63
Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 6:20 pm
Car: 1990 nissan 300zx n/a

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ya thanks man that does help a little but what i did tonight was simply traced all the lines coming from the TB and fallowed them all the way back to the back of the motor and found that basically they came out of 2 bigger metal pipes (about 1'' diameter) and relized i just have to plug anything thats going to have coolant flowing thro it, which, when i figured it out, i think its just those 2 bigger pipes althou i think i have to cap like 2 small holes in each i beleive.

GerryO
Posts: 974
Joined: Fri Feb 09, 2007 11:47 am
Car: 1993 J30t
Pearl White
Black Interior

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nick1809 wrote:the pics dont work becausethey are hosted on 300zxclub.com and you have to login there to see them, i dont understand that part but im a member there too. but, for the waterline delete, you dont have to cap the tb lines as there are no fluids coming from there. but the other four lines (that you have to plug) are near the back of the engine, the 1st three lines are on the passenger side of the motor, they are pretty obvious, the 3rd one has a small amount of rubber tubing on it that has to be removed so you can plug it, but thats easy. the 4th plug, i dont have that one done yet. haha. that one is on the drivers side of the motor under the big brake booster vacuum line. hope that helps. its pretty awkward to explain. haha
Sorry I don't have the car handy and any photos of my own, and it's been almost four years, but a number of things are visible in the photo below. I wanted to keep things as stock looking as possible, just in case the car ever needed to pass a CA smog test again, and I didn't want any locations in the coolant/heater system lines that would trap air.

Image

http://www.z32photoguide.com/

J_Lee87
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 10:16 pm
Car: 1996 300zxTT

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This might be helpful it is the diagram of a TT though let me know how it works out I want to delete all that extra junk on my Plenum but am not sure how well it will work out for me. (http://tech.aus300zx.com/Rear_Water_Hos ... ement.html)


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