Ugh I forgot to tighten some of my lines as well and was leaking.

Have you checked your TPS with a voltmeter? Make sure its set correctly.

You might have to also play with the idle screw a bit.

Thanks duffman and I will be checking all those things.

Very good news to get it going! congrats I would keep checking the clamps and hoses after you put a few miles on it as well. Sometimes they need a little "settling in".Nice job!

yeah i hear ya, i had to tighten two coolant lines, and a fuel line, and almost all my clamps on the intercooler couplings...maybe next time i'll be anal and torque everything to spec

More pics, More pics!!!

Solow240sx wrote:More pics, More pics!!!

lets see'em.....

Solow240sx wrote:More pics, More pics!!!

Still haven't cleaned it up and washed it since being in drydock but here's some pics from just before I pulled the KA. Like I said before, it needs paint and bodywork but most of these cars do unless you're lucky!

This is the car before I bought it. The owner pulled the radio, his wheels, his aftermarket exhaust, the springs/shocks and put the stock exhaust and spring/shock combo back on before passing it over to me. In hindsight, I'm glad this car was completely stock when I got it. I knew nothing of automechanics when I got it and I've learned quite a bit since then and gained a great hobby as well.Exhaust was the very first thing I changed on the car. Look at those bald tires, shows you where my priorities were! The next thing was a spring/shock combo that my best friend put on at a shop where he worked. After that I made sure that I did my research and put every single part on the car myself from that point forward.This is about a week after I bought the car. You can't see but it still has the pop-ups on the front. Look at that fender gap. I hadn't touched the suspension, brakes or anything other than basic maintenance.

This was the day that we changed the frontend.



I ditched the trunk with the OEM spoiler for another trunk......with..an OEM spoiler...?!Frankenstein...black car, blue mirrors, white trunk and spoiler, champagne door handles.R32 seat.

Some autocross pics...



From basically going from not even knowing how to change my own oil to doing a engine swap in just over two years is a good thing. Over the time that I've had this car I've had to learn how to do basic maintenance myself. I've changed the starter, alternator, suspension, brakes, steering wheel, climate control not to mention many many other small things. I've gone over, in and under practically every part of this car with my bare hands and I have to say that I enjoyed every moment of it.This is pretty much what it looks like up to now.NISMO Power BraceNISMO Tension Control RodsOEM Front Sway BarOEM Front Lower Control ArmsOEM Inner Tie RodsOEM Outer Tie RodsEnergy Suspension Sway Bar BushingsOEM Sway Bar EndlinksEnergy Suspension Steering Rack BushingsFront Strut Tower BarKilogram Millimeter(KG/MM) Race SpringsKYB AGX StrutsProject Nissan Rear Upper Control ArmsMegan Racing Rear Toe RodsMegan Racing Rear Traction Control LinksRear Lower Control Arm BarOEM Rear Sway BarJGY Customs Subframe SpacersTransmission Tunnel BraceC-Pillar BarFloor BarNagisa Auto Fender BracesZ32 Front Brake Calipers AluminumZ32 Front Brake RotorsZ32 Stainless Steel Front Brake LinesZ32 Rear E-brake Assembly/HubsZ32 Rear Brake CalipersZ32 Rear Brembo Brake RotorsZ32 Stainless Steel Rear Brake LinesS13 Silvia Frontend ConversionAmber/Clear Turn SignalsS13 Silvia Trunk with LED SpoilerS13 Silvia Trunk LockS13 Silvia Power Folding MirrorsS13 Silvia Digital Climate Control ConversionS13 Silvia Steering WheelS13 Silvia Floor MatsS13 Silvia Ignition Key LightR32 Skyline GTR Drivers SeatFreebox/CupholderOEM Console Buttons OEM gauge Clutster LidOEM Speaker Grille CoversOEM Door Handles/LocksOEM Door Switch BezelsOEM Door Locks/Handles...and the list goes on.

I have been plagued with belt squeal since startup. I've played around with the tension on the belt by tightening and loosening it and have gone from a squeal to a constant shrill like noise. Little advise for you inexperience mechanics like me...don't loosen your alternator belt too much or you will kill your battery...doh!!! Like I said, I had the belt too loose and robbed my battery and then I had it much too tight. I heard that having a belt that is too tight can cause premature wear on the water pump, can anyone confirm this? I also did some searching and found out that there should be a quarter inch to a half inch of slack, anyone else got anything different? Can you guys give me an idea of where the top bolt is on your alternator bracket? Standing in front of the car, mine was all the way to the far left corner of the bracket so tonight I loosened the top and bottom bolts and moved top bolt to somewhere around the middle of the bracket and tightened the belt but there is still a shrill? I'm going to go to the parts store tomorrow and get some belt glaze and see if that fixes the problem. Also, I mistakenly managed to put some scrapes on the alternator pulley when I was working on the engine on the stand...could that be causing the problem? Also I think that it is only torqued to 60ft.lbs whereas it's supposed to be 100ft.lbs. Opinions?

Adjusting your serpentine belt - most call for 1/2 to 3/4 of movement in either direction when applying 10 pounds of force. And overtightened belt can definitely cause premature wear on waterpump bearings, it's not good for the other accessories it's driving either.

Don't use belt dressing on a new belt the polymers in that garbage will contaminate the rubber and never come out and if the belt and pulleys are in good condition there is no reason for the stuff. Small scrapes should not be causing slippage, they'd probably add more friction. Make sure your alternator turns freely. If the belt is slipping it probably needs more tension on it. Don't overtighten it.

you've done it... you've arrived.

What kind of exhaust is on there? I didn't see it in your mods list.

AZ89two4Tsx wrote:What kind of exhaust is on there? I didn't see it in your mods list.

Apexi N-1

Engine parts list, here's the checklist I used to keep track of what I needed or wanted to get.X=purchased-=not yetENGINE---------------------------SR20DET Redtop w/5spd.Tranny X-JSA Motors (ENGINE INSTALLED ON 11/2/8!!!)Motor Mounts-NISMO X-EbayNismo Engine Mounts X-West CovinaValve Cover-Redtop X-Phase2MotortrendValve Cover PCV Valve X-West CovinaValve Cover Bolts X-Bonehead PerformanceValve Cover Washers X-Powdercoated by Bonehead PerformanceCrank Angle Sensor Cover X-EbayGreddy Oil Pan X-Askme4parts.comOil Strainer S14 XOEM Oil Strainer Gasket XMagnetic Oil Drain Plug X-EbayOil Drain Plug Crush Washer X-West CovinaMain Oil Seal-Rear X-Performance NissanMain Oil Seal-Front X-Performance NissanOil Filter Nissan-OEM X-West CovinaOil Filter Relocation Kit X-Greddy(use of of GReddy oil filter or 1985-87 Toyota Corolla GTS Oil filter required)SR P/S Pump (USED) X-nicoclub.com ForumPowersteering Belt-Gates X-West Covina

TURBO---------------------------- Greddy Profec B Spec II X-Boost ControllerGreddy Turbo Timer X-EbayCircuit Sports TT Harness X-Askme4partsIntercooler OEM Sidemount X-NICOIntercooler Piping OEM X-NICOIntercooler Duct OEM X-EbayIntercooler Hotpipe/HKS BOV X-Phase2MotorsportsT25 Turbo Manifold X-IntenseMotorsportsTurbo Elbow Megan Racing X-EbayOEM Exhaust Manifold Washers X-West CovinaOEM Exhaust Manifold Nuts X-West CovinaOEM Turbo Locking Tabs X-West CovinaO2 Sensor-Redtop-Skinny Type X-Performance NissanO2 Sensor Adapter X-EnjukuracingTurbo Inlet Hose X-AutoZoneTurbo Elbow Studsx3 X-Phase2MotortrendTurbo Lines-Steel X-Circuit SportsDownPipe-3" X-Ebay Wrapped in heat wrap and treated with silicon spray for protection!A.I.V. Plug-HeavyThrottle X-HeavyThrottle Not needed!Thermal Wrap X-Askme4parts

DRIVETRAIN-----------------------OEM Transmission Bolts X-EbayNismo Transmission Mount X-West CovinaNismo Pivot Ball X-Askmeforparts ebay sellerClutch-Exedy Stage 2 X-EbayClutch Slave to Cylinder Line X-Askme4partsClutchline-Stainless Steel X-ProjectSilviaFlywheel-ACT Streetlite X-EbaySteel Driveshaft -Underdrive Pulleys-Greddy X-Phase2MotortrendRocker Arm Stopppers X-Greddy Steel Braided P/S Line -Askme4parts

ELECTRICAL-----------------------Spark Plugs-NGK Iridium X-FRSportGrounding Plate-P2M SR20DET X-FRSportWiring Harness Service X-Wiring SpecialtiesAlternator Belt-Gates X-West Covina

EXHAUST--------------------------Apexi N1 Catback X-Phase2MotortrendDownpipe 3" flexpipe X-EbayTest Pipe X-Ebay INSTALLEDExhaust Manifold Wrap X-EbaySilicon Spray X-EbayExhaust Insulator Mount X-Courtesy NissanMeganRacing BMC Heat Shield X-Askem4parts

INTAKE---------------------------Circuit Sports Mini Catchcan X-EnjukuracingApexi Power Intake X-Askme4partsFuel Pressure Regulator -Fuel Filter-300ZX X-Performance NissanFuel Lines-Upper/Lower Steel X-Eric's Performance Parts Fuel Pump-Walbro X-Ebay

COOLING--------------------------S13 Radiator Cooling Panel X-EbayOEM S14 Water Outlet/Neck X-West Covina NissanRadiator-Koyo Racing Aluminum X-EbayRadiator Hose-Lower OEM X-Performance NissanRadiator Hose-Upper OEM X-Performance NissanRadiator Cap-Apexi X-EbayAltima Dual Fans X-Peays Junkyard Fan-Permacool Electric X-EbayDIF Dual Fan Relay X-Phase2MotortrendThermostat-NISMO X-EbayCoolant Temp Sensor X-AutoZoneTemp gauge Sender X-AutoZoneWater Wetter 12oz. X-EbayWaterPump-OEM X-Phase2MotortrendHeater Hose Kit-Heavythrottle X-Heavythrottle

GAUGES---------------------------Greddy Boost Controller X-EbayAlfa Otto Cluster X-Ebay INSTALLEDGauge Pod Center Dash XGauge-Boost X-Summit RacingGauge-Air/Fuel X-Summit RacingGauge-Oil Pressure XGauge-Water Temperature XGauge-Fuel Pressure X-Askme4partsOil Filter Sandwich Plate X-Ebay Doesn't fit...ebay crap!

GASKETS-------------------------- Gasket-Cometic Metal Head X-EbayGasket-Valve Cover X-Performance NissanGasket-Spark Plug x4 X-Performance NissanGasket-Thermal Intake Manifold X-Performance NissanGasket-Throttle Body X-Performance NissanGasket-Intake Collector X-West CovinaGasket-Idle Air Control Valve X-West CovinaGasket-Metal Exhaust Manifold X-Performance NissanGasket-Turbo 2bolt X-West CovinaGasket-Turbo 3bolt X-Performance NissanGasket-Turbo Outlet X-Performance NissanGasket-Turbo Compressor X-Performance NissanGasket-Transmission Rear Seal X-Courtesy NissanGasket-Transmission Gearbox X-Courtesy NissanGasket-Transmission Frnt Cvr. X-Courtesy Nissan
Modified by positron_ at 3:13 AM 12/22/2008

Wow! Thanks!

man look good wish i had the time andmoney to do this to mine

Hey posi!Its me again haha,

Im going to be asking you alot of questions soon enough when i get my sr, i followed your guide to taking the ka out and it was a breeze.

Im not going to be replacing as much as you, but we will see :]

Good job on this huge writeup, im glad to have your help on nico.

Ill be all on this thread as soon as my funds raise for a sr

posi!!!! amazing build and right up. this is the best right up on almost every single aspect of building a sr engine i think i have ever read. Very detailed, easy to understand and full of TONS of info from you and other ppl giving you there input. Ive just got done reading all 17 pages and there are some things im gonna go check on on my sr that isnt running right. That engine looks sick and i hope that car is treating you well.

Thanks, but it's missing the most important stuff because, other than a set of rocker arm stoppers, I have nothing on internals. Slideways^Jordan's SR Head Build / Turbo and Question thread. zerothread/304249My 500rwhp SR Build thread by Solow240sx zer...hreadMy SR20DET GT3071R Twin Scroll Build-Up by ElNegro zerothread/343991Time For a Upgrade by Broadfield zer...age=1SR20DE-T Head Removalby mrzabala http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=255165

looks good, i should have had you guys do my swap!

Dude. You knew nothing about Engines and did all that?

You have inspired me to not be scared when i get my SR20.

YOU are the reason i am going into so much detail BEFORE i swap the engine into my car.

Thank You Very very Much.

One Love,

Ghasty

16 x 9 + 5 f/r

silvia aero,silvia side skirts.

cage,bride seats

gt28rs / nismo 550cc / power fc / maf

fresh paint

and you have the baddest build thread in all history.......... ever.

Hey, I wanted to congratulate you on your swap. Good to see that it's up and running.

Looking over page 15, I would relocate how your blowby crankcase ventilation is setup. Right now, you have a braided line that goes from your valve cover to your air filter BEFORE your MAF. When you're driving, crankcase vapors will be sucked out of your VC, and into your MAF. Soon enough your MAF will be coated with gas/oil/vapor and start to malfuncton.

When these JDM companies develop these filters, I believe the fitting on the intake goes to the AIV, NOT the VC. Since you don't have the AIV, I would do something else.

Also, when you're wiring your gauges, the best way to power them is this way:zerothread?id=376734

When you do it this way, your gauge lights will turn on when you turn your headlights on to the 1st and 2nd postion. Also, using this method, you can also control the dimming of the gauges through the little button on the left-hand side for your gauge cluster. I've had this setup for the past couple months and it's great!

Keep it up!

Edit: Though people will argue with me about this, I would HIGHLY suggest buying a wideband, even you're stock. Yes, stock engines from Japan didn't use them, but it's good to know that you can safely turn the boost up without blowing a hole through one of your pstons. I have running stock boost with a Walbro and FMIC for over a year, and i didn't even realize I was running lean for a couple months now.

Running oem manifold and oem ecu, so if by aiv you meant iacv he's still running it. It sources air from the opposite side of the intact tract. Is there one or two vacuum nipples on the oem turbo inlet elbow? I know there's one for the brake booster, if there's another this is where I'd put the valvetrain vent line. It may not be the best way for the maf, but anything that comes out of the valvetrain breather will be gas and it looks like the aftermarket intended for it to be set up like this.
Modified by enterpricorp at 11:25 PM 1/3/2009

Thoughtful_One wrote:Hey, I wanted to congratulate you on your swap. Good to see that it's up and running.

Looking over page 15, I would relocate how your blowby crankcase ventilation is setup. Right now, you have a braided line that goes from your valve cover to your air filter BEFORE your MAF. When you're driving, crankcase vapors will be sucked out of your VC, and into your MAF. Soon enough your MAF will be coated with gas/oil/vapor and start to malfuncton.

When these JDM companies develop these filters, I believe the fitting on the intake goes to the AIV, NOT the VC. Since you don't have the AIV, I would do something else.

Also, when you're wiring your gauges, the best way to power them is this way:zerothread?id=376734

When you do it this way, your gauge lights will turn on when you turn your headlights on to the 1st and 2nd postion. Also, using this method, you can also control the dimming of the gauges through the little button on the left-hand side for your gauge cluster. I've had this setup for the past couple months and it's great!

Keep it up!

Edit: Though people will argue with me about this, I would HIGHLY suggest buying a wideband, even you're stock. Yes, stock engines from Japan didn't use them, but it's good to know that you can safely turn the boost up without blowing a hole through one of your pstons. I have running stock boost with a Walbro and FMIC for over a year, and i didn't even realize I was running lean for a couple months now.

I haven't posted up pics yet but I made a change to this setup but I still don't know if it's right. I have since bought a mini Circuit Sports catchcan from Enjukuracing and installed it. I have the steel braided line coming from the valvecover going into the catchcan and I have a small piece of rubber hose coming out of the other catchcan nozzle and going to the MAF. Is this a better setup? I see it installed this way on many of the engine bay pics that I have so I thought this was the way to do it?

enterpricorp wrote:Running oem manifold and oem ecu, so if by aiv you meant iacv he's still running it. It sources air from the opposite side of the intact tract. Is there one or two vacuum nipples on the oem turbo inlet elbow? I know there's one for the brake booster, if there's another this is where I'd put the valvetrain vent line. It may not be the best way for the maf, but anything that comes out of the valvetrain breather will be gas and it looks like the aftermarket intended for it to be set up like this.

So you saying I should move the line coming off the valve cover to one of the ports on that rubber intake? Right now I have both lines capped off.

pics of oil ventilation or bust

Kalypso123 wrote:pics of oil ventilation or bust

I still haven't gotten around to wire tucking and whatnot, I'm lazy, but I did put this catchcan in like so.The sight tube was busted when I got it in the mail and I told Enjukuracing about it. I went ahead and removed the sight tube and put some threads in and two days later Enjukuracing sent me a brand new sight tube which I've yet to put in...again with the laziness.

positron_ wrote:So you saying I should move the line coming off the valve cover to one of the ports on that rubber intake? Right now I have both lines capped off.

There is really no mechanical difference in attaching the line at the elbow versus the suction kit maf adapter. I'd attach it at the elbow versus before the mafs simply for piece of mind that any vapors coming out of the valvetrain breather will not be passing through my maf sensor. I don't know if you just had your catch can like that for the pic or not, but it should be mounted vertically. Also, if you have both lines capped on the elbow are you sourcing the brake booster vacuum from somewhere else?
Modified by enterpricorp at 12:54 AM 1/5/2009

enterpricorp wrote:Running oem manifold and oem ecu, so if by aiv you meant iacv he's still running it. It sources air from the opposite side of the intact tract. Is there one or two vacuum nipples on the oem turbo inlet elbow? I know there's one for the brake booster, if there's another this is where I'd put the valvetrain vent line. It may not be the best way for the maf, but anything that comes out of the valvetrain breather will be gas and it looks like the aftermarket intended for it to be set up like this.

Modified by enterpricorp at 11:25 PM 1/3/2009

No, AIV and IACV are two completely different things. IACV is idle air control valve, and only handkes off-throttle idle. AIV is a system used to inject oxygen into in the exhaust stream, most lkely to heat the catalytic converter up more. If oyu look at OEM Silvia's or 180SX's, there si a small device that goes from the filter to the box, then to the turbo elbow. That's also why most peolpe block off the little bung on the OEM turbo elbow. They don't have the AIV anymore...

I agree, the catch can you be mounted vertically. The way you have it set up, vapors will come in, condense, and then travel straight into your MAF! DO NOT keep running the setup you have.

If I recall correctly, the OEM S13 SR intake tube has a provision for this.

On your engine, I believe the T that goes towards the back of the car goes to the oil seperator, then back into the block. On the front of the T, have it go from the T to the catch can, then to the rubber intake turbe AFTER the MAF, never before...

I just took a closer look at some other people's engines. Since I have an S14 SR, there is only one vent coming from the right-side of the VC. PCV is in the same location. S14 SR has it setup to go directly from the VC to the rubber intake into the turbo. On your setup, you should do the following:



Keep those purple lines as short as possible if I were you. This will create a larger vacuum inside the engine to suck out more of the blow-by.