My review on the Kenne Bell Boost-A-Spark :) :) .045 plug gap works FYI

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s14det
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This is re-posted from another forum. (Sorry did not feel like re-typing everything)

Was a easy install took about 1 1/2 hours (which included fixing the wiring issues) Car runs allot better now since I fixed those wires, but under boost I was doing 17ish psi with .039 on #6 V-power NGK plug (cheap ones). It is the same as the stock plugs but a 6 heat range and -11 at the end of the model #. I had the boost-a-spark about 1/4 of the way and it just freaking pulls like a freight train. No break-up what so ever, This was also when it was dark out so the air is even denser. Sounds allot better under boost and drives allot better under vacuum since the plugs are not at .030. My friend was with me and noticed that it was allot smoother and sounded allot better under boost. Tomorrow I'm going to put the plugs at .045+ gap and see how it runs. In the past the V power NGK plugs did not seem to run right, but they may not work well at .030 gap or smaller.

What is nice about the Boost-A-Spark is that it will only send the extra voltage to the coil once it sees 4+ psi of boost. It just uses a pressure switch so you could use a Hobbs switch and adjust it when you what/need the extra juice. You can mount the adjustment Knob in the car to adjust the spark density but once it is set not sure why one would want to change it :? The unit is built really well and I was surprised at how heavy it was. The adjustment knob is very smooth and built very study.

Only cost me $232 shipped.

Pics of it installed

Adjustment Knob Temp. installed Pressure switch so it comes on at 4+ psi. Switch is right next to the strut bar (pink connectors LOL)

After running some test with it today found out that .045 gap works with 16-17ish psi of boost on a cool day 66 degree's. Oh man does it run :D Car drives so much better with the bigger plug gap. The adjustment is almost between 1/2 and 3/4 on the knob. Which I think should be about 15.5 volts to the coil. Stock Volts would be about 13.5v since that is about what the electrical system sees when the car is running. Which may be less since these cars are older so the wires have degraded. With this you connect the connection straight from the Boost-a-Pump to the plug on the disty (straight to coil). The other side on the Boost-a-Pump is connected straight to the + side on the Battery. It has a 30amp fuse on the wire fyi.

But I would say this is the thing to get if you hate having to gap your plugs down to .030 or lower. Now you can keep the stock gap .044 and run just fine
Modified by s14det at 12:01 AM 5/24/2007


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DammitBobby
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I think I would rather install the Kenne Bell over the MSD 6al. This appears to solve the spark blow out. It would be interesting to see a dyno run with this mod installed.


S13FX
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One quick note, when you get new spark plugs don't get the ones with the -11 at the end.

From what I remember the -11 means their pre-gaped, so if your doing any re-gapping to them the node thing is at a weird angel after wards and can cause problems.

other then that Great Review thanks.

I know Kenne Bell makes some great products.

Florida240sx
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Yup get bkr7e

s14det
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I have had the #7's in there before but the car just did not drive right. That was not with Kenne Bell tho. The -11 where pre-gapped to .039. I normaly do not even get the V-power plugs put being so cheap. I thought I would give them a try again since there would be more gap in the plug. I will be going to the Dyno soon, but it will not be a before/after, unless I take my plugs out after each run and re-gap them.

If anyone wants the link to the place where I bought mine, just let me know. I would post it, but they are not a Sponsor. Really tho they only deal with Fords only. Shipping was really fast also.


TheOne
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i wish kennebell would make a supercharger for the ka:(, that thing would prolly rule.

eitherway i've read pretty good things about the BAP, there's also a boost a pump(for the fuel pump).

i also been tryin to get my brother to put a kennebell supercharger in his 01 corvette, but who knowz if he eva will.

NateDogg
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What you could do is turn the BAS to off and gap the plugs down to .030" then turn it up to full whack and gap the plugs to .050"!!! I would pay you $10 paypal for that dyno.

Thanks for the write-up btw..glad somebody was the guinea pig on this one.

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DammitBobby
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It makes me wonder why not leave the voltage at 15 volts all the time instead of stepping up at 4psi of boost? If that is not a problem then something like this would work for only 140.00 and it is adjustable from 15v up to 24v.

http://www.powerstream.com/dcdc.htm

NateDogg
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Probably cuz it would wear out the coil faster and 15V is not enough. Need more like 18V IMO.

s14det
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running more volts to something when it is not needed will extand the life of it. I would think the B-A-S is sendind more then just Voltage. I think it up's the amperage also. Plus for only $232 it is a steal of a deal for the extra power I am feeling. I think it would get even better for people that have an aftermarket coil.

NateDogg-I could just bring 2 sets of the same plugs and have one gapped at .030 and then one at .045-.05. On the Kenne Bell site they show their boosted mustang was at .1 gap at like 30 psi. and picked up 50hp with the gap range.

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DammitBobby
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More voltage no load change = more amperage.I=v/rBoth units would increase amperage. The only thing BAS is going to do is increase voltage to the coil to produce a stronger spark.

Yea $232 is not a bad price for a performance mod that will probably save you some gas money. I still think you came across a good mod. Owning a S13 how can I help but to be cheap:)

S13FX
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Hey bro, if you can do a quick write up and some pictures of this thing, I can throw it in our sticky thread above. Seems like this would be a great ign mod, and for the price it seems to do wonders.

s14det
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S13FX wrote:Hey bro, if you can do a quick write up and some pictures of this thing, I can throw it in our sticky thread above. Seems like this would be a great ign mod, and for the price it seems to do wonders.
That would be awesome!! Let me write something up and take some pics of everything

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Carl H
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a cheaper and just as effecive mod is to mount a quest alternator, with 14v constant to the coils even at 8k rpm ive been able to open up the plug gap on the rb back to 1.1mm from the .8mm it was before...and no blow out.just a thought...

NateDogg
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Carl H wrote:a cheaper and just as effecive mod is to mount a quest alternator, with 14v constant to the coils even at 8k rpm ive been able to open up the plug gap on the rb back to 1.1mm from the .8mm it was before...and no blow out.just a thought...
Shouldnt we be getting 14V constant at the coil regardless of the alternator,unless it's overloaded? Maybe your previous alt. wasnt able to keep up with electric fans, stereo, headlights, a/c, blower, etc...

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Carl H
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in theroy yes but the 80a alternator thats standard on most ka's simply isnt enough for high loads.on my rb20 with an 80 amp alternator the car would almost die at night because of the lights and efans...twas terrible, fitted the quest alternator and all problems dissapeared.

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WDRacing
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Excellent idea Carl...I was toying with a the idea of that awhile back. But I was leaning towards and aftermarket alt. I was just to lazy to fab new brackets. How difficult was the Quest Alt to swap?

Anytime you can increase the gap in a plug you're in a win win situation. Everything from power to gas mileage will improve. I've been saying this for years now, always run the largest gap you can.

WD

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eazye2000
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Here's the Quest alternator swap thread.

zerothread?id=131961

This is on my list of things 'to do'.

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Charlie240sxt
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the alt swap is harder then it sounds on there as least for my car it was but is worth it i think

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DammitBobby
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Yep I am in the process of doing it now. I am hoping that is some of my problems.

s14det
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Well I bought some BKR7E plugs and gapped them to .06. Still pulls like a mofo and driveability is greatly improved. The adjustment Knob is about 3/4 of the way. Car pulls and does not cut out at all. Did pulls at 16-17psi all the way to 7K. Car even sounds better at the higher RPM. I should have the write-up on this finished tonight.

s14det
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Installation of the Kenne Bell Boost-A-Spark (BAS) is very easy. Install Main Box in the engine bay. I would make sure it is away from heat. For wiring, the orange wire (30amp fuse) goes to 12v. I connected mine straight to the battery, since it is fused it will be protected if something goes wrong. The Black wire on the Main unit connects to ground (chassis).

The Red wire connects to the coil input. On the S14 distributor it connects to this plug (red box) to the Black/Red wire. If you have an aftermarket coil it would go to the 12v input.

The RCA connection coming out of the unit connects to the adjustment knob. This adjustment knob can be installed inside (dash, glove box, etc) or in the engine bay if it is kept away from heat. I am not sure where I am going to install mine so it is zip tied to the battery for now.

The cable with 2 small wires inside coming out of the main unit is for the Boost switch. This boost switch will turn on at 4psi so after that the extra volts will go to the coil. I installed mine on the line going to the FPR.

Picture of the main unit mounted.

With the Boost-A-Spark I have been able to run .060 plug gap w/ NGK BKR7E up to 16-17 psi. Car runs a lot smoother during cruising and picked up a lot of power under boost. Since the BAS only steps up the volts after 4 psi, the coil is not always getting the extra voltage. I bought mine online for $232 shipped.


Modified by s14det at 9:37 PM 5/23/2007

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Carl H
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1.5mm plug gap is effin impressive...suprising that it sparks.behold the power of more voltage to primary coil...

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WDRacing
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No ****....060 at a full bar of boost is awsome.

S13FX
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Cool thanks a lot s14det, I will add this to our sticky, tomorrow morning when I get to work.

NateDogg
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Nice job dude. When are you gonna dyno this thing?

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Carl H
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now the real question is how long will the internal coil last before the extra voltage frys it...

s14det
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Carl H wrote:now the real question is how long will the internal coil last before the extra voltage frys it...
That is why bought another disty, just in case. I would think it would be okay since it only comes on over 4psi. I wonder if there is a way to put some type of cooling/heatsink on the internal coil?

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Craving4Boost
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how are you suppose to determine how much voltage to increase? how do you know when the knob is turned to much? (besides frying the coil). How come this is better than, let's say, msd 6al/7al?

s14det
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What I did was kept adjusting the knob until it did not cut out. I am stopping at .060 gap and the knob is about 3/4. With .045 gap I was a between half and 3/4. When I went to .060 I moved the knob up a little as I was hearing break-up. If you already have a external coil this will also work on that. I really can not tell you the difference from this and the MSD.

Need to see what type of coil nissan used inside their disty. We can see what the specs are on it and see if 20v is with-in its operating voltage.


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