My RB26 Transplant is Complete.....

Post by **GIJOE69** » Tue Jun 07, 2005 9:00 pm

are you using a McKinney downpipe? and how long approximatly did it take to get the wiring harness back tom McKinney?

Post by **Ramius83** » Wed Jun 08, 2005 9:05 am

No, that is not the McKinney down-pipe. They have yet to release them due to their suppliers shafting them.

It took me about 6 weeks to get my wiring back from them. It was supposed to be about 2-3 weeks, but SEMA or something like that came up and they had to take some time away. But I didn't care because I still had other things to get/buy so I could start the swap.

Post by **kouki-gymkhana** » Wed Jun 08, 2005 11:13 am

Ramius, The car looks tight, man... As J Powell said, it looks very OEM and I can definitely appreciate the attention to detail you have clearly put into the project. Do me a favor and keep the sleeper look! Rims and aero are so over-rated!

Post by **Red-KAT** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 6:33 pm

Awesome! I like it a lot!

I'm going to be working towards my new project of an S13 w/ RB26. How much did this cost you - the car. :P Also where did you get yer engine and how much? I have a hard time finding good looking RB26's. Thanks!

Post by **Nameless EJ6** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 9:09 am

Ramius83 wrote:Nameless: The R6 is still faster lol. Not to mention I can attract more babes with it too.......

haha..

Post by **Ramius83** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 9:26 am

Yeah, so I have been trying as hard as I could to get these timing guns I have to work, but I couldn't. They are the inductive type of timing guns. They have a little clamp mechanism that surrounds an ignition wire. I couldn't get the gun to pick up the ignition signal worth the life of me. So I bite the bullet and bought a regular direct wire timing gun. With this one, you actually remove the front coil pack, connect a little piece of metal into the coil pack, and then you hook that piece of metal directly to the timing gun wire. 1st time, worked like a charm.

Anyways, the timing was at 10 degrees, WAY off. So, I dialed in the standard 20 degrees, and HOLY SMOKES. She feels like a whole different monster now. It idles MUCH better, sounds MUCH better, and is MUCH faster.

So now everything is working fine. Only thing I am working on now is a LSD for traction.....

Post by **eh?** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 9:42 am

FYI for inductive timing guns:Get an old sparkplug lead, remove #1 coil and install lead between coil and plug. Hook up timing light.

Post by **Ramius83** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 10:29 am

Yeah, that is what I just read about, trick wise.

I didn't think of that at the time I had those guns, I just gave up and went the old fashioned way. The only thing that got me was when I was removing the positive and ground to the timing gun and the lead was still hooked up to the coil pack, engine running. I didn't expect the multiple shocks that I got from the spark LOL. It wasn't funny when it happened, but man that was funny afterwards. It was just a constant shock after shock after shock. I had to yell for my girlfriend to turn the car off because I was scared to drop the + and - wire to the gun in fear that they may doing something and zap the coil pack or ignition system......Funny.....Good times.....

Post by **Spazz** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 10:49 am

Ramius. was it worth it? the whole swap and the amount it cost?

Post by **Ramius83** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 5:18 pm

All in all, considering it was basically a trouble free install, yes it was worth it.

Money wise, of course you always spend more than what you initially want to spend, but oh well. I just kept telling myself, "Ok, now I NEED this part for the install, and I NEED this one as well." LOL, before I knew it, I had spent thousands just on the little things, NOT including the actual motor/shipping itself. I'll give you all a close ball-park figure once I get it calculated on the computer. Believe me, it ain't pretty.....

Post by **Ramius83** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 5:24 pm

But to add to the "Was it worth it question."

Yes, just by the sound, feel, and impression the car has now, it is absolutely awesome. And it is something that the average 240sx dude won't have (like most with the SR or KA-T).

Post by **Spazz** » Sun Jun 12, 2005 12:04 pm

thats fantastic. People like you give the rest of us inspiration to get on with our own projects.be sure to post some cost numbers...

Post by **OlyDriftSquad** » Sun Jun 12, 2005 9:31 pm

Welcome to the 26 FAMILY!! fun eh ? i have one in my s14 and so does my co/ owner of our shop here in oly WA, Just wait till up do "Minor upgrades,, hehehe

agian good job!...

Post by **Saint** » Tue Jun 14, 2005 6:25 pm

Hey Ramius83.I'm up in Norcross. Any chance we could hook up? so I could chek it out?I have belived in the swap since the first time I came accross it about 3 years ago. And what you have done is absolutly awsome. Amy time you need help E-mail me.

Post by **NightRyderNy** » Wed Jul 13, 2005 4:38 am

Ok so maybe i missed this but where did u get ur motor from? Ive been searching around everywhere for prices and was just wondering where u got urs from since it looks to be in great shape

Post by **Ramius83** » Wed Jul 13, 2005 11:38 am

I purchased the motor and RB25 transmission from a guy in Nevada. His name is Bernard Plett. In the past, he has sold some motors to McKinney, Top Hat, Underground, Cameron, etc.

That I know of, he has gotten out of the business, but I am not sure. I will drop an email to him and see what he says. He actually lives in Japan now with his new wife, which is where his parents are from. He may still import engines into the US to Nevada, but I have no idea. I'll let you know....

Post by **lucky7** » Wed Jul 13, 2005 2:10 pm

awesome man. like previously stated, giving inspiration to us all to finish our swaps. im saving for a power FC, then i will be just about ready to install my 25. awesome work.

Post by **FAST-DATSUN** » Sat Jul 16, 2005 6:42 am

Excellant JOB!!!!! You should be proud of it ,a very PROFESSIONAL JOB.... Mack

Post by **Imissmyturbo** » Sun Jul 17, 2005 10:33 am

How did you confirm the year of your motor?

Post by **Ramius83** » Sun Jul 17, 2005 12:46 pm

Mainly I know it is a 94 motor because the seller is a honest man.

But I know it is because I have a good oil pump drive collar. This problem was rectified starting in about 93. So the worst possible scenario is I have a 93 motor lol.....

Post by **Imissmyturbo** » Sun Jul 17, 2005 4:09 pm

So the only way I can tell if mine is good is by removing the oil pump?

Post by **Ramius83** » Sun Jul 17, 2005 4:51 pm

Unfortunately, that is the only way that I know of personally. I am sure that some of the other more experienced RB peeps may be able to tell you. I am sure that if you looked around on http://www.skylinesautralia.com or http://www.skylinesdownunder.com, they may be able to tell you.

Here is one question for you, do you know if yours is an R32 or R33?

Post by **Phat_Optimo** » Sun Jul 17, 2005 5:33 pm

I believe the problem was fixed in late 93'I have an early 93' which had the oil pump drive issue.

Post by **Ramius83** » Sun Jul 17, 2005 5:53 pm

Phat_Optimo wrote:I believe the problem was fixed in late 93'I have an early 93' which had the oil pump drive issue.

Yeah, some people say that after 92.5 they fixed it, and yet some still have the problem with some 93 motors. I guess it is just hit or miss if your engine was built around that time frame. Maybe your engine is a 92-92.5, but tagged as a 93? Who knows lol. But it doesn't matter now, you totally rebuilt yours head-to-toe correct? I hope to do that whenever this engine does crap out. Then I will do the "proper" build on it, pistons, rods, bearings, cams, head work, turbos, computer, etc etc etc....

Post by **Imissmyturbo** » Tue Jul 19, 2005 5:55 am

Well I am not sure about the oil drive on my motor but I think I got some turbos with metal wheels instead of ceramic. I compaired the turbine to the RB25 one I have laying around. The nut on the shaft of the ceramic one is uncut and the one on the RB26 turbos is cut for balancing....Also the RB26 make a different sound when tapped. And the RB25 turbine looks white while the RB26's look dark grey.

Post by **gawdzilla** » Tue Jul 19, 2005 8:16 am

Imissmyturbo wrote:Well I am not sure about the oil drive on my motor but I think I got some turbos with metal wheels instead of ceramic. I compaired the turbine to the RB25 one I have laying around. The nut on the shaft of the ceramic one is uncut and the one on the RB26 turbos is cut for balancing....Also the RB26 make a different sound when tapped. And the RB25 turbine looks white while the RB26's look dark grey.

could be n1s... i dont think the r33 oems had metal wheels. mine came w/ some afmkts (1 was roughed up), but they were dual BB but not any of the n1's. search around sdu and sau to find n1 specs and see if they are.

Post by **Imissmyturbo** » Tue Jul 19, 2005 9:17 am

Well My RB26 is an R32. The #'s on the turbine are compressor are .42/.48 which is the stock size. I can't find any good pics compairing the N1' to the standerd turbos.

Post by **Imissmyturbo** » Tue Jul 19, 2005 6:00 pm

Here is a pic of the turbine. All the standerd Ceramic turbo's I have seen have a full 12 point uncut nut on the end (Not really a nut)

Post by **gawdzilla** » Tue Jul 19, 2005 7:07 pm

looks metal to me. probably the r32 n1s.

Post by **Imissmyturbo** » Wed Jul 20, 2005 3:17 am

I am looking for a detailed pic/descripsion of the N1 vs the stock turbos. I have heard soo many different things as to AR sizes.

My RB26 Transplant is Complete.....

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