Hey guys, pretty new to this forum as far as posting goes... I am mainly on hybridz but figured i would post for future reference.
Got the car Nov 19th, here is my progress so far. i dont think i have been home before 12am since..




1st thing i did was to put her on a lift and steam clean the hell out of it. boy was she a dirty girl... (no pics of that)

Hopefully this will work. Here is my FlickR album i will be uploading pics too.
Datsun Uploads

Things that are hard to tell:
-Bad Dog frame rails welded in
-Stiched welded front of car, down the rails, and around the mustache bar.
-Got a new front crossmemeber because the one that was in the car had the camber adjusters all welded up, i tried grinding/plasma cutting but it didnt work. (whats 40 bux at this point)...


Notched Passengerside transmission mount


Removing engine


Engine after steam cleaning


Empty engine bay


Timing Covers off engine


Passenger side transmission mount








Tension rod brace



SandBlasting






Some toys





After sand blasting i painted it with POR 15, and sanded the engine bay....



R230 Install via TTT mustache bar (high mount option)
(frame uncut)




Fun with my plasma cutter











More Goodies


Fuel lines
1/2 (8AN) feed and return. i plan on running a sump and a surge tank with 2 built in walburo 255s since i have them already.





Sump, Damn i could use a sheetmetal brake....



Por 15 BlackCoat (glossy) no paint booth but oh well...





N1 oil pump modded for external pickup


Well, today was a lazy day. Just installed the modded N1 oil pump, water pump, cam gears, timing belt and polished up the cam sensor and mouting bracket.
I like how the greddy timing belt has the marks for the dots on the cam gears. that makes things easy, other companies probably do the same....













You can hardly tell the clear cover is on it. haha




Well, its going slow as hell with the holidays and family in town. Got her all stripped down and the block painted with Por 15 engine enamel. got the water feeds and oil feed braided lines ran, fuel sump finished and primed (not pictured yet), r230 mounted with energy suspension bushings (not pictured and still have to play with alignment seems to be far off to the passenger side) and have the intake side of the block torn down. Waiting on the oil cooler sandwich/thermostat to get here, and trying to figure out what i need to reinstall. i will probably weld up something similar to what stony is running on his coolant lines on the manifold. The stock setup has way to much s***.


Thermal Gasket


Manifold p0rn




well i was going to drop it in this weekend but i went to bolt up the oil pan only to find out the rear main seal retainer had threads that were stripped... ehhhh brand new rear main seal in there too...damn...anyway parts will be here monday.... had to take off the trans, clutch, flywheel and all that crap...damn..... oh well :blink: i guess this is the 1st hickup so i guess i cant complain, i am sure there were be more to follow...
heres a pic of the GT coolant mod...




Polished the center cover, welded 12an bungs on valve covers (not pictured), welded -10an bung on the bottom of the intake manifold for the air regulator, bead blasted steering rack, rebuilt with new rods and boots, installed the ACZ lower control arms i had on my tube chassis 280z, ran all the plumbing, bent the front oil drain lines so they would fit, and so much more i cant even type now im so tried ... next up fuel lines, and modify this intake manifold so it will clear the fender. i could wack it with a hammer one time on the fender but i think i will take a band saw and cut the manifold 1/2 way though and bend it out then weld it up.













well, i have been slacking off. Currently fabricating a surge tank and tinkering with some fuel stuff. fixed my window regulators so i can roll it outside during work hours. Got the radiator mount fabbed up. here are some pics of it. unfortunatly i live in a small town so finding parts and stuff is next to impossible so i took (2) 1/8 2" angle brackets and weldeded them together and had 2" flat pieces and welded them together... be cleaner if i had some 4" channel and 4" flat stock, but it will suffice





Well here is about 3/5ths of the fittings i used... holy **** dont do it. i could have a nice single turbo for the price.

Here is the surge tank i made.




EMS





well its slowly coming along, waiting on the ems and suspension. then gotta do the drive shaft and wheels. It will be moving slowly now the the money has vanished.
here are some intercooler pics.





got the hks mounted.

ok i am giving up on these lasers. it would work well if you can get them true. mine is out about the size of a tennis ball.



well here is the fuel pump in the rear. (1 walburo 255hp to fill the surge, and 2 in the surge).


stupid vapor tank... why they didnt put a piece of sheet metal over this and block it from the cabin i have no idea...


here is the rear sump pickups, dual crimped 8an teflon lines


side shot of the rear fuel pump


AAC and air regular plumbed.


here is the overflow tank, its only 1qt which has me wondering but next time i fire her up i will see how much it fills up before i weld the lid on there. nevermind the nasty welds on the left side....


ok, broke out the lathe on the suspension and i am glad i did, turned out great. more pics to come.

these are the lower perches that come with the ground control coilovers.... they made me laugh and reminded me of my hondas weaponR suspension...


so giving the middle finger to that i made these. hammer tight tolerances turned out perfect i must say


then i modified the top hats to fit inside the bearing like the oem perch...



got it lowered on the ground today and can push down own it my my scrawny self and one of my guys says "now thats a suspension" ahah love it..

Here is 2 front suspension shots.



I pulled my 280z brake booster which had the 15/16 mc upgrade already on it.


here is the 240z booster pattern. the 280z is slightly wider, hell you could slot these if you wanted to but i just redrilled it.


I shuck the booster and didnt hear the reaction disk flopping around but i decided to investigate while i had it out, im glad i did. i was wondering how i was going to get the disk out,i used a air gun and blew it in at all angles and the reaction disk came flying out (lots of people have trouble getting it out, so just use the air gun mine has like a 45 degree tube on it so i could stick it down inside there).


put some quick set epoxy on there (after i sanded and degreased the surfaces of course)


and the end result...
a 280z booster and a 280zx master cylinder.


here is the clearances, kinda hard to see but its tight fit, but it fits none the less.


*sigh* she is getting there... 3 steps forward, 2 steps back... so one at a time. hopefully T3 will have some parts next week so i can get the rear end done.
B)

well, spent all friday and saturday drilling and tapping out all these broke off bolts, in the body, probably 20-25 of them, geeez...
anyway trial fit the front lip and bumper, got the aem boost solenoid hooked up and wired, mounted the emblem on the valve cover finally, haha that should give me about 10hp right there... I'm starting to get excited, i know its premature but thats my nature





are the stock injectors good for 12psi on stock turbos? i know the 1cc per hp rule, so i would think so but figured i would ask.

well, i tell ya, everything is fighting me tooth and nail. went to install the blinkers and i heard something rattling around, ok no biggy i will just take off the lens and see whats up... well it was only the shiny bulb surround that was loose so i epoxied it back on there but to get the damn lens off i had to weld an attachment to each of the phillips screws cause they were all stripped and i couldn't get my vice grips down in there. holy hell what a pain, but its all done now. got the air damn mounted and the bumper mounted. starting to look like a car again.

Welcome to NICO Love that you are posting here in the Z general. I have been watching your build on HZ and it is amazing. One of the best!
Keep the updates coming!

Very nice work, love the hybrid Z cars!

finished the oil catch can... calling it a night im tired. I tried to find stainless steel but this town sucks so i had to settle for copper, i thought that would be better than the regular steel crap.

Impressive!!!!!! Holy crap you sir inspire me Excellent job man. Very nice build, keep it up!

thanks i need some inspiration. its been a long six months. i took my 3rd official night off today.... i guess you can deduce i'm single :P

dude you're freaking move FAST. most ppl take years. keep it up man!!!!

Getting burned out but getting close to a good point in taking a break.I would be done if people would send me the correct parts. I feel like that Sarah Mclachlan song

Spend all your time waiting
For that second chance to get the right parts
For a break that would make it okay
There’s always one reason
To feel like cussing someone out
And it’s hard at the end of the day
I need some distraction
Oh beautiful RB
Fuel seeps though my surge tank
Let it not be empty
And weightless and maybe
I’ll find some place to do a burnout tonight

haha, sorry I have not had my coffee yet this morning..

dp hits tranny here

here

and here


i modified it some with a 5lb slede hammer and a vice so it fits but it still rubs, gonna take care of that when i start making the exhaust and hacking this dp up. not impressed with these parts except the oil pan that was/is incredible.

WOW
You guys who build these amazing cars simply stun me with your dedication and abilities to hit ALL of the details in such short order.
VERY beautiful Z, can't wait to see what else you do!

Nice build up, I always like seeing a fellow RBZ

Good choice to turn the N1 into an external pick up for your rear sump oil pan. I seen most people try to modify the internal pickup to pick up the oil. But I am not sure about the N1 oil pump it either RPMs or caviation usually makes them take a dump. And also curious if your custom oil pan have any baffling?

Also hows your collector sump for your GT coolant mod? You have a return line for both the rad and pump? Do you have additional line at the top of the sump that connects to the overflow tank?

Anyways looking forward to see your progress and you car tearing the tarmac.

the N1 oil pump is for now. i would like to put a tomei or jun or greddy one in there at some point (wish they had tapped theres for external pickup...)

yes the oil pan has baffling and 2 trap doors with the pickup inside that.

i have a port on the coolant swirl pot but i have that plugged and have my overflow hooked up at the radiator. there is a 12an return to the radiator at the bottom of the swirl pot.

Awesome man and + 1 on the Exhaust pipe wrap

Great build man.............

ok finally an update... i drove it around the parking lot... that was beer inspiring, man i see an electric power assist steering in my future. Got the rear finished here is 2 pics of that, i will get more shortly.



Ended up having to use the low mount R230 mustache bar instead of the high mount to get the driveline angles with the mckinney mounts.... Still dont have all the vibration out, but it was a big difference.
Still need to put on the cotter pins on the rear axle, align it, finish fuel system (running on surge tank at the moment), mount ecu, make intake setup, fab exhaust, and stuff like that. but it coming along. i havent been able to work on it in almost 2 weeks. Clutch and brakes seem ok. I made some Stainless rear brake lines and will do the front when i upgrade to the ACZ brake setup and 5 lugs. i will probably stay with the Z32 rear brake setup, i am currently modifying the parking brake to work with it. Right now im stuck with s*** 5 lug wheels off a ford ranger, the bullet hole wheels but oh well, progress is progress. :blink:

not sure if they still make it but discovery parts used to make a kit to run Z32 callipers and rotors all the way around, although I think the rotor needed the radius turned down a bit on one set of the rotors and it was not cheap

Well didnt have long to work on it this week but made some progress.

Here is the ECU plate. You cant see it but i used rubber well nuts to mount it to the chassis so that will give it vibration protection and also the ecu is velcroed on. I welded a little ledge for it to rest on too. The velcro is not on there yet in the pics. Not going to put it on till i test drive it on the street.




Finished up the fuel system and got the parking brake figured out (will post the parking brake setup tomorrow or tuesday).







I have a megan turbo GT muffler and 409 16ga pipe on the way, hopefully be here by the weekend so i can start that. I have an oil leak somewhere on the drivers side, think it might be a valve cover gasket or a cam seal (which is new though), gotta get someone to look while i run it on the rack.

Ok, here is the how to on how to hook up the Z32 parking brake to the s30 (at least the 240z)
You need a balance bar from a z32. I bought the entire ebrake handle for .99 on ebay and 5 bucks shipping, turns out it was Z1 motorsports.
Here are the differences....



Cut the cable off and remove the balance bar.

ext drill out the z32 balance bar to accept a 6mmx1.0 (something like 17/64ths drill bit)


Next get a 60mm long 6x1.0 allen head bolt and install it in place of the oem rod. I couldnt find a fully threaded one, but if you have a choice it wouldnt hurt although you dont need fully threaded. (you may need to slighly grind down the head, depending on bolt manufacture). Not pictured is the oem 240z clevis that screws on this bolt too, but you can figure that out.



next install the cables using 8mm fender and lock washers in mounting bracket that the original 240z cables where mounted. (note that the position of the flanges, if you dont mount them on this side of the brackets you will need a longer bolt). I mounted the left cable to the right side bracket and vise versa, seemed to have less stress on the cable that way because these z32 cables are so long.



The last step (may not be required) is to cut a bushing and side it over the adjusting rod. Again this might not be necessary but i figured i would go ahead and do it to keep the adjustment nut somewhat centered. This is roughly 1 inch.


Adjustments are easily made via the allen bolt and also the 10mm linkage bolt (make sure your parking brake pads are properly adjusted before messing with the linkages B) Beer Time, its 6:30 and still 98 degrees outside...****

Looking real good

I threw her on the alignment rack last night, boy that was fun....not. Wish i would have got the T3 front LCA rather than the AZC ones, but when i bought them the T3 were not in production (bought them for my 280z)

I set it up via JohnC's recommendations in the FAQ for a street car.


Does anyone know the length of the threads of the inner tie rods? this one looks a bit on the long side.

Mount the muffler Like this, but up in the hole (made bigger)


vs.




This eliminates two 90 degree bends into probably (1) 45 degree bend, if i don't like it later i can black it out and you really willnt see it much with my undercarriage.

Holy s*** man I'm inspired. Now time for a newbie question.... what type of welder did you use for most of your welds? I'm going to be putting an rb25 in my 280zx shortly and would like to know.

i have a miller syncrowave 200 tig and a lincoln 140 mig. My next tig is going to have frequency control, that would have been real useful on all this aluminum, but its all good. the tig is defiantly the mvp on this build... probably 300 bux just in argon i bet though. haha

Update please...

We want more.

Maiden Voyage... Still have alot to do and tune tune it some.
http://s116.photobucket.com/albums/o4/B ... 0106-1.mp4


i did the exhaust in stainless 409 16gauge. i will post pics when its totally done, but i have to get my driveline vibrations done before i can final weld one part. Right now i have a piece of flexpipe connecting the exhaust to the downpipe.

Absolute automotive beauty man, my hats off to you sir.

Just curious how is that exhaust wrap holding up and what brand is it. It appears to be very durable looking

so far its fine. Its Dei titanium wrap. granted it only has 50miles on it or so now though. no boost and real heat yet. i wrapped my hondas downpipe and its still on there after 6 years....

Update please....We need to know

It will smoke if your idling for an extended amount of time. It would be nice to put it on an RPM switch so its vented atmosphere below say 5000 then vents exhaust over 5000. I will probably do something like that.

Updates.
I got the speedhuts in and tweeked. Dash is done, it came out pretty good, but i still want a carbon fiber one.
Got her on the dyno but I loose the clutch disk after 300 tq so I am gonna find a twin disk I think. I would like to run a hydraulic throwout bearing if i can. Anyway here are some pics.








Dyno Video
9psi 3rd gear to 7800 (139mph)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54638216@N ... hotostream
Hopefully that link will work for you guys, not sure.

....and?

you told us the boost pressure and posted a vid of it running on the rollers but no hp/tq numbers, this would be a fail, please do tell us more