my mani is done check it out

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214kka-et240sx
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DRIFTEADOR wrote:thats not mild steel you used for extentions is it? and what gauge piping did you use?

I dont have a sohc but this is cetainly interesting to read. thumbs up to you for creativity.
, all i did was use the same pipes that were on the mani. and all i did was cut them and match them to the flange. i did use a aluminiezd pipe just to extend one pipe, but as for air flow, i think, if it works for a SR , then it will work for a KA . but i might be wrong.but so far it looks good, and the turbo fit perfect, and nothin gets in the way. i will post some pic when its on my car. and will take it ti get it dynoed maybe.


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214kka-et240sx
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jmwenick wrote:Is that a CT-26 Turbo in the pic?.
no , its a SR turbo. but i heard that sr turbos had a .60 A/R and mine has .80 A/R. dont know if this is right.

sanioll
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run some tests on it. at least check the backpressure to see if you are in optimal range.

in exhaust design, streamlining is very important.

crzycav86
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sanioll wrote:run some tests on it. at least check the backpressure to see if you are in optimal range.

in exhaust design, streamlining is very important.
For a budget project, it's not that important.

Chingon
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Looks good. I hope you used ss filler rod. That is arc welded right?

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superDorifto
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impressive, i didnt share my initial opinion of the idea and now im glad i didnt. i would have been one of the haters. good job man.

Nismo_Freak
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214kka-et240sx wrote: no , its a SR turbo. but i heard that sr turbos had a .60 A/R and mine has .80 A/R. dont know if this is right.
.80 A/R = S13 T25.60 A/R = S14 T28

Thats the difference.

Doesn't look too bad, don't forget to support that turbo like I said. That manifold will crack on you in no-time if you allow it.

Nismo_Freak
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sanioll wrote:run some tests on it. at least check the backpressure to see if you are in optimal range.

in exhaust design, streamlining is very important.
Compared to a log manifold that thing is beautiful.

The SR doesn't gain very much with that manifold, in fact it's kinda debateable at that power level for an SR.

However an SR has a decent cast manifold to begin with.

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95_240sx
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Nicely Done.

Rick

SlidnSideways
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*Claps*

--Tim--

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214kka-et240sx
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Nismo_Freak wrote:
Compared to a log manifold that thing is beautiful.
yea , thats y i needed a new mani , check out my old one. please dont laught at it . ............ ok you can . lmao . i guess with my new one, it will make A BIG difference.


SlidnSideways
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Interesting!

--Tim--

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hannibal
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I was wondering how you were gonna do this. If I had seen your old manifold first, I woulda known that you could pull it off.

Let form follow function!!

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virus77
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214kka-et240sx wrote:yea , thats y i needed a new mani , check out my old one. please dont laught at it . ............ ok you can . lmao . i guess with my new one, it will make A BIG difference.
LMAO, that is the ugliest, ghettoest thing ive seen in my life. its litterally a log.

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K240
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I knew there were log style manifolds, i didnt know they were actually logs....Is it made of wood????!!! =]

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Jookmasta
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i was dying on the floor when i saw that pic. lmao! that is THE definition of a log manifold...........after seeing that, i think i have now seen it all. lol. words cannot explain what a difference ur new mani is in comparison to the other thing u were using before. big congrats again to the new mani....

s86d
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Sparkplug location people that old one is not nissan...squints...OMG stands corrected and cries WTF!!! but good job on the new one.-Dave

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wannawangan
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Crude but effective. Man, I gotta learn how to weld and do my own custom stuff.

TheOne
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214kka-et240sx wrote:yea , thats y i needed a new mani , check out my old one. please dont laught at it . ............ ok you can . lmao . i guess with my new one, it will make A BIG difference.
am pretty sure its goin to make a difference, just look at that log!,lol, thats like a new way of sayin....custom:).

anywayz thats kool that you took a de mani and made it an e.

sanioll
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214kka-et240sx wrote:
my mani wat yall think
I gotta ask you this. You welded that thing together. It looks okay. You haven't done any tests, no streamlining, no pre design flow calculations.

Some people here said that for a budget project, perfect optimal design doesn't matter. And I will agree with them.

Can you also provide us with the time and money spent on this thing?

How much did the parts cost you? And how long did it take you to complete it?

P.S. I think i'm starting to like you, buddy.

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214kka-et240sx
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sanioll wrote:
I gotta ask you this. You welded that thing together. It looks okay. You haven't done any tests, no streamlining, no pre design flow calculations.

Some people here said that for a budget project, perfect optimal design doesn't matter. And I will agree with them.

Can you also provide us with the time and money spent on this thing?

How much did the parts cost you? And how long did it take you to complete it?

P.S. I think i'm starting to like you, buddy.
hey, well it took 30 mins to get it weldded, 200$ all together. , i havent tested it yet, but look at my old one, if that one worked, then this one will work really good, if it works for a SR, works for a KA.

my old mani. cost me 50 bux to make. lmao

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214kka-et240sx
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ok, i am guessing like in 3 weeks i'll get my mani put on, and we will see wat happeneds. i will post pic, i'll keep you guys updated

Florida240sx
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Got my SOHC running the other day.Might need you to make me one.

sanioll
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*edit: finally at home, pic links fixed.

Please check the backpressure, its crucial in turbocharging.

Here are some things, to think about:

1) You need should cut it int he middle to prevent thermal expansion to the sides.Screw holes on the outsides also need to be enlargened a bit towards the inner edge.

2) try to smoothen that pipe inside, or weld on top abit, and grind it down to make it smooth. That is going to create bad hotspots..

3) you also should reinforce pipes with triangular or any shape. Weld something on both sides of every pipe. When you rev the engine, it moves, so i would do it on top and bottom, Not front and back.

Since you got 3 weeks, you might as well get your hands dirty to improve the design.
Modified by sanioll at 11:42 PM 6/22/2005

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AZhitman
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Good work kid.

sanioll
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AZhitman wrote:Good work kid.
I second that.

180sx
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sanioll sorry dude but u diss this guy first about making it than he makes it now u diss him by didu calculate this or that? man u see his old logg that held up do u think he calculated shiet than ,so yah i think there is no questions if u worried about all that than why bother trying to make one get one off graddy or maybe u should e-mail them for some flow digits for their mani. or hire engeener to take tests and design u the perfect one for your exact setup. ..u see where i am getting at we have a hobby try to make shiet by ourself and u come on talking and comparing to some well engeenered parts info you read up somewhere. shiet if you wanna rengeener stuff for perfect numbers go to school for few years take mech eng and than talk some sense into us don't use quotes u read and sometime don't understand sorrie don't mean to diss u but u gotta relax and and let people try things , otherwise we will never find out what works and if u think i am wrong than u should be buying a made bolt on kit from graddy and e-mail them to make sure that their calculations are good according to your theories before buying.

214kkkdude i like what u made looks good i made a link to ka-t.org in sohc forum for ya some people that make manifolds decided to maybe make a conversion adapter(ka24eflange(~adapter~)sr20detmani. anyway go look see if you think that would be easier than measuring u had to do. its under hybrid mani topic there also why didn't u just make a ka24e exhaust flange at some local machine shop otta stainless steel to mach the mani than expansion ratio will be more equal and weld would hold much stronger instead of mild steel flange of jgt turbo or just not use stock flange just torch it ogg haha ????damn good expiriment thow looks good got me inspired to do shiet

i myself gonna make a thik *** stainless steel flange adapter machined inside and ported for ka24etodsm turbo mani with external wastegate and welded to the dsm mani since i am gonna use t25 outta mitsu see how long it lasts hehe than get a big *** mitsu turbo or make some adjustments and go with s15 t28

anyway good luck to everyone time to buy parts and hit up the garage finish off some shiet

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214kka-et240sx
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hey sanioll, how do i dheck back pressure. and yea i still need some more detials on the mani,

sanioll
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Pick up and read book: Maximum Boost by Corgy Bell; not sure about the author name. It is a very good book for starters. Well a little advanced. Good stuff to look at, especially if you're an engineering student.

heres something from google search.

http://www.eurocats.co.uk/tech-info.html

THE BACK PRESSURE TEST:This test will require a back-pressure gauge. An inexpensive back-pressure gauge can be made from a small pressure gauge that reads from 0 to 30 psi, a piece of vacuum tubing and a small 3 mm 0.D. piece of copper tubing with a 3 mm l.D. viton 0-ring. This 0-ring will help to seal the hole that the copper tube is inserted into, or a back-pressure gauge may be purchased from numerous sources pre-made. The exhaust pipe at the front of each converter. With the engine running, check the back pressure. The back pressure should be no more than 4 to 5 psi. This reading is with the throttle partly open at 2500 rpm. When checking exhaust back pressure, be sure to check at the inlet and outlet of each converter or exhaust component tested. A reading of 1/2 to 2 psi is normal.

Chingon
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Coefficient of thermal expansion... in/in/oF (x10^-6)

7.228 mild steel9.9 ss 304

" Stainless steels can be welded using several different procedures such as shielded metal arc welding, gas tungsten arc welding, and gas metal arc welding.

These steels are slightly more difficult to weld than mild carbon steels. The physical properties of stainless steel are different from mild steel and this makes it weld differently. These differences are:

* Lower melting temperature, * Lower coefficient of thermal conductivity, * Higher coefficient of thermal expansion, * Higher electrical resistance.

The properties are not the same for all stainless steels, but they are the same for those having the same microstructure. Regarding this, stainless steels from the same metallurgical class have the similar welding characteristics and are grouped according to the metallurgical structure with respect to welding. "

This is what worries me... Hope what I'm thinking will happen doesn't happen.


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