My LS1 S14 build thread

Post by **Joe** » Fri Jun 29, 2007 6:57 pm

finally opened her up tonight, so far so good. lots of varnish in oil areas but no sludge. all water passages look amazing. no signs of corrosion or anything. water and oil pumps look good. gonna do a Katech oil pump tho. cheap insurance.

Post by **Joe** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 5:52 pm

crossmember notched and back in.

disclaimer: i only have a gasless 110v mig welder. so i apologize for the crappy weld quality :lol:

hopefully oil pan will be here in the next few days so i can build the mounts and finally drop her in.

Post by **-ExCesS-** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:08 am

lol me again, asking questions before you get too far ahead. Is that the stock crossmember? (still learning about the S-chassis lol) and do you have pics of it before the changes?

Post by **Joe** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:24 am

that was my r33 crossmember. its better to use a RB20 or RB25 crossmember because the engine mounting pods are about 1.5 inches more forward than the KA/SR crossmembers. it gives you more clearance for your header on the drivers side, and makes fabricating engine mounts easier

heres it unmodified, and upside down

Post by **WDRacing** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:04 am

Joe, you should get picks before, during and after bro...you suck at this...lol.

Post by **Joe** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:25 am

i dont take pictures when im working on stuff, it distracts me lol

Post by **WDRacing** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:35 am

I'd suggest a video camera, but then we'd catch you making out with your boyfriend

Post by **Joe** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:37 am

youd watch me drink beer and get nothing done for hours on end

Post by **Abdo** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 11:03 am

Kamin wrote:youd watch me drink beer and get nothing done for hours on end

LMFAO too bad its true!haha! j/k m8!

Post by **0wn3r** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 5:01 pm

Kamin wrote:youd watch me drink beer and get nothing done for hours on end

was the RB that disappointing?

Post by **Joe** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 12:25 pm

thanks for the warning but im going to be moving this engine back as FAR as i can.

Post by **cnichols** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 10:13 am

Just remember that the MAP sensor, Knock sensor, the brake booster line, and I think the Cam sensor are all behind the intake manifold. I left myself some room so that I could work on these things without having to unbolt the motor and hoist it forward.

Just something to think about. Being able to work on the car was my main concern when placing the motor...not getting it set back an extra inch or two. But, hey...that's just me.

Post by **Joe** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 9:59 pm

ya i know, thanks for the reminder haha

when i say as far back as possible, i actually mean "i will sacrifice the ease of ability to get to those things on the back of the manifold so long as i dont have to cut my hood"

p.s. rb is finally sold

custom cam is being made

truckload of parts arrives next week.

Post by **cnichols** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:36 am

I didn't cut my hood.

Post by **Joe** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 10:19 am

oh i know, most people dont have to. just saying

Post by **Joe** » Wed Jul 11, 2007 5:12 pm

parts started showing up.

clutch master, headers, and thanks to larry's engine and marine an oil pan i can borrow till my real one shows up. thanks Larry I owe you one.

clutch master and half-made adapter bracket. it will be finished tomorrow. thats the wilwood master cylinder with the nissan rod/U bracket for the pedal. scarily enough it fits perfect in the wilwood master.

front on sump GTO oil pan. thanks again larry!

headers. i dropped the engine in the bay for the first time really quickly to get an idea if they will work and i dont think they are going to work...oh well i guess ill just cut them up and make them work haha. i wont know for sure till the engine is mounted this weekend. so stay tuned

tomorrow the clutch and stainless steel lines should be here for the clutch system. flywheel should be back from the resurfacer too.

Post by **cnichols** » Wed Jul 11, 2007 10:45 pm

I stand by my recommendation to get the Hinson Headers and a driveshaft from them as well. Then just figure out where the motor needs to sit and you instantly save yourself who knows how many hours of headaches trying to hack together some frankenstein headers.

Also, a note about the clutch U bracket. Mine was too short. I've also seen the stock ones break (mine for example, when the SR was in it)

I ended up fabbing a new one out of stainless that was longer.

Post by **QuickerThanU** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 12:14 am

You fa.ggot hurry up with this swap. J/k gj and i plan on doin the same swap in my s14 and will use this as a guide

Post by **Joe** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:41 am

chris not paying $800+ for something i can make for less than half of that haha. this swap doesnt need to be show car clean. its a racecar

Post by **cnichols** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 7:12 am

I competely understand where you're coming from because I made everything else for my car.

But, it was worth it time wise for me. The Hinson headers are stainless, the welds are great, and they fit. Time is money!

I just refuse to ever use any exhaust components that are not stainless.

Post by **Joe** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 7:23 am

doesnt matter in arizona we dont have rust haha

Post by **WDRacing** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 3:51 pm

Kamin wrote:doesnt matter in arizona we dont have rust haha

Exactly...not to mention mild steal coated with ceramic works just fine for this kid.

Post by **Joe** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 6:51 pm

its been slow going, im thinking way too much about the mounts. just need to build them and be done. I also had to renotch my crossmember, needed the engine back another inch. ill get pics of that and of the mounts once they are 100% finished.

the mounts are just tacked together right now, a very simple version. (yes i know the engine is twisted a little. the mount isnt attached to the crossmember yet. just resting on it.)

the best part

the hood closes :lol:

they are gonna remain tacked together till the clutch arrives and i can put the tranny back on and get the final position for the engine. i think its very close tho.

Post by **300hp owen** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:02 am

NICE NICE!hey once you get a big fat 4" elbow and some CAI piping on that throttlebody, you might have some hood fitment issues, its always close so you may need to think about how quickly you can angle the CAI downwards away from the hood and how short to keep the elbow at the TB so it doesnt stick forward any more than necessary.

that engine bay cleaned up very well, looks so simple and basic in there now, its nice that the LS1 setups dont require a lot of auxillary stuff in the engine bay to run them, it makes wrenching on them a lot easier.

awesome progrress man, now FINISH UP!!!!!!!!!! lol.

Post by **Joe** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:01 am

hehe i know, last night i put the hood on and checked clearance there. ive got about .25 inches clearance so it should be JUST enough for the elbow.

and if it hits, its hitting the skeleton, not the hood itself so ill just notch it

Post by **300hp owen** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 6:54 am

niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice, good work on the fitment, ya gotta love DIY LS1 mounts!props!

Post by **Joe** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 7:11 pm

oh my god an update! haha sorry again for the lack of them. ill take a ton of pictures as soon as the engine is mounted completely for the last time lol

the renotched crossmember.

my over engineered transmission mount

patriot extreme dual springs

p.s. if you own a crane on-engine valvespring compressor, replace the turndown nut. mine stripped on the last pair of springs lol. luckliy i had a spare. dont ask me how i did

Post by **Joe** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 6:35 pm

engine in the car for the first time unsupported. gonna start building the exhaust on monday

Post by **Logan76** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 6:48 pm

Thats slick as hell, lookin' good man.

Post by **Picolini** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 9:42 pm

That's awesome man! I bet it's nice to have it sitting in there all on it's own. Good luck with the exhaust!

My LS1 S14 build thread

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