My J hesitates to pull off fast

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gr8scott72
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Pogophil wrote:
Agreed, that's what I would think. This would be the case regardless of the load.

Maybe I'm missing something....
I know that on my last car (VW), if the MAF wasn't plugged in, the traction control wouldn't work because the engine can't figure load. So I don't know how, but the MAF is related to engine load and that's why I said what I said.


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nkawall
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well i had thought to myself that it could very well be the egr valve or the egr temperature sensor...because the egr only kicks in when the car is warm...and that is exactly when i start to lose power

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yodawill2000
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An EGR issue will cause a Check engine light.

Been there done that.

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nkawall
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not necessarilly, if the egr fails completely it'll set off a light but if it is clogged it wont set off a light, so i was thinking it could be stuffed up ith a bunch of carbon or something

littlewillie
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Modified by littlewillie at 11:43 PM 12/23/2007

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nkawall
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are you 100% sure about that ...?because last year my car failed the ontario drive clean emissions test due to an issue with the egr...my mechanic cleaned out all the carbon he could and then i went back to take the test and passed with ease...and no check engine light came on at all

gotspeed
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Trust me on this, just take your car to Auto Zone or some store like it in your area that will scan your cars computer(they do it for free), Because a Knock Sensor doesnt throw a Check Engine Light. So it would be to your advantage to get this done first, b/f you start replacing things that may not have to right now. I and others have faced the same problems you are experiencing and its all because of the knock sensor. When you go to Auto Zone, just tell them to check your car even though you dont have a light on, tell them that some sensors on our car go bad w/o throwing codes and they'll hook it right up.

gr8scott72
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gotspeed wrote:Trust me on this, just take your car to Auto Zone or some store like it in your area that will scan your cars computer(they do it for free), Because a Knock Sensor doesnt throw a Check Engine Light. So it would be to your advantage to get this done first, b/f you start replacing things that may not have to right now. I and others have faced the same problems you are experiencing and its all because of the knock sensor. When you go to Auto Zone, just tell them to check your car even though you dont have a light on, tell them that some sensors on our car go bad w/o throwing codes and they'll hook it right up.
They can't scan it unless it's OBDII which is 96 and up I believe.

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nkawall
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ok mine is a 93' so does that mean that only Infiniti can scan it for a code?

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yodawill2000
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Theres a sticky at the top of this forum showing how to do it yourself.

Also a clogged EGR tube wont alway cause a soild check engine light.Mine would come on around 55 Mph then go out and back on intermittintly.Read the codes and sho' nuff.EGR function code.Cleaned the tubes and all was well.

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nkawall
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wheres the sticky?i dont see it

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yodawill2000
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at the top of this forum heres a link

zerothread/217489

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supadave
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im having problems with my 96 j30 stalling out in idle i could barely drive it to autozone i did a code read, knock sensor, bank 1 slot 2 ox sensor, low coolant temp sensor, while there i also changed the air filter and that seemed to be fine for a day but it is now wanting to stall out again in idle, could this be the MAF needing to be cleaned exc. how can i bypass the knock sensor to see if this is causing the stall, and what excatly does the knock sensor do. also if my car hasnt set for awhile its extremely fun trying to start.

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yodawill2000
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The knock sensor retards the timing if it detects engine knock, like if you put low octane gas in.You can bypass it by putting a 1 Megaohm resistor in the connector going to the sensor just for diag testing.Cleaning the Maf and replacing the fuel filter would be a good place to start with the stalling thing.Both fairly easy to do .

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supadave
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cheaper to, im gonna try that tomorrow so till then,

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supadave
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does ne body else have a problem with there lights on the door/window control and ac control, they are like little almost led type bulbs

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nkawall
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ok i followed the directions of that sticky...and i got access to the ecu and i didnt see a single switch or led on it at all...anyone have pics or details on where this "diagnostic switch" is?

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yodawill2000
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You have to unmount the ecu.The led and switch are on the back side,The end pointing to the front of the car. opposite of the big cable harness side.

littlewillie
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Modified by littlewillie at 11:16 PM 12/23/2007

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nkawall
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ok i got the code for the knock sensor...so im going to change that and hopefully it fixes my problem

gr8scott72
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nkawall wrote:ok i got the code for the knock sensor...so im going to change that and hopefully it fixes my problem
You will want to look into relocating the knock sensor as replacing the stock one requires hours and hours of labor.

Knock sensors are $60 on ebay for our cars and you can get the harness you need from the dealership for about $25.


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nkawall
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are you guys sure that you can relocate it...because nissan obviously put it near the cylinders for a reason right?

NismoChi
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No they are not, some people relocate the sensor somewhere else, some put a resistor to bypass it altogether, simply because they don't want to spend the time or money to fix it right. It is your car, do whatever you want cause you are the one that is taking the risk and nobody else.

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nkawall
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so in this case what is the risk of something happening, and what can go wrong if it is'nt replaced in the proper spot?i've taken off my entire manifold before with some help from my dad to change the injectors. we knew that was a hell of a lot of work so we replaced all 6 injectors because we didnt wanna take that apart again

gr8scott72
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nkawall wrote:so in this case what is the risk of something happening, and what can go wrong if it is'nt replaced in the proper spot?i've taken off my entire manifold before with some help from my dad to change the injectors. we knew that was a hell of a lot of work so we replaced all 6 injectors because we didnt wanna take that apart again
Even taking the manifold off you are STILL not to the knock sensor location. It is under the LOWER intake manifold and to take that off you have to take some of the timing belt stuff off also.

gotspeed
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if you have the money to do it right, then of course have the knock sensor installed correctly, I relocated my KS for a temporary fix and as soon as my money stops acting funny then ill put it where it belongs.

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supadave
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hey guys quick update replaced the 20 dollar coolant sensor and its running fine check engine light is off now so preciate the tips and advice

Thanks


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