Not trying to be mean or anything, just realistic. As mentioned above there are many people that have wanted an RB in their Z, and like myself at one time even had most everything lined up...but it is a very complicated and expensive swap, plus needs someone involved who is a relative guru with the RB to make everything work correctly given the need of a standalone ECU and MANY custom bits and pieces.MYFAIRLADYZX32 wrote:Well i know it's hard but not impossible I have the money to get a complete RB26 engine with transmission I just need to know if it will fit in the 300zx I've heard it bolts right in but there are always issues with the mounting brackets and it's a tight space that might lead to some space clearance and please If you have negative stuff to say please keep it to too yourself
DCaff300ZX wrote:Swap shop sounds like a great start especially if they have plenty of RB experience, good luck and keep us posted!
DCaff300ZX wrote:Shop seems legit, and their welder does nice looking work. But I didn't see any Nissans among their posted work so I'd be a little worried about parts sourcing and compatibility issues that a Nissan specialist would have less trouble with.
NolimitZ32 wrote:You seem to be in fairly good spirits and open to suggestions so I'll play nice. As you asked me in your other thread where does the other $23k come from?
Here it is-
Engine management/tuning: $500 (if you know HEX better than English and can rewire the harness yourself) - $4000 (if you go all out standalone with wiring, setup and tune) so averages to roughly $2k
Cooling system: $500-$1000 (depending on how elaborate you want to get)
Exhaust: $1000+ (Custom from the turbo/turbos all the way to the tips)
Intercooler & piping: $1000+ (once again all custom)
Misc. metal fab work: $1000+ (the RB was never meant to fit so cutting, beating, welding and cursing will be required)
Install of the whole shebang: $4000 (guess as labor prices differ greatly)
So you are thinking, hey that's only $10k. If you are buying a RB or any used engine there are certain things that should be changed to new before installation unless you want s*** to start breaking right after you get her running, here's that list:
New oil pump: $300 something IIRC
New waterpump & timing kit: $500
All new gaskets/seals kit: $300
Turbos: $200 (if they are good and just need to be cleaned & inspected, balance checked) $3000 if you need new ones
Clutch: $500-$700 for a basic exedy or southbend that will hold the power, want to go fancy? $3500
Flywheel: Using factory? $100 to machine and balance, want something better $300-$1000 depending on how nice.
Misc bolts, nuts, gaskets, sealants, hoses, couplers, sensors, maintenance items (spark plugs, oils, lubes, filters, etc) $500+ before its all said and done.
Labor to do all that: $2000 if you're lucky.
That's about $16.5k all in, this is assuming that the engine you get is in good condition with good compression, good working accessories (A/C, alt, PS pump, etc.) and that the car doesn't need anything like wheel bearings, seals, PS rack, PS lines, A/C Lines, trans & power harnesses, so on and so forth. If you are planning on swapping a non native engine that's 15+ years old into a car that's 20+ years old and you want to be happy with it a the end and not have a decade long headache on your hands than you need to do all these things together because a Z32 with an RB26 and bad wheel-bearings isn't going to go very far or very safely. I know this because I stared my TT swap when I was 19, when I didn't know any better, now 9 years later, I have pulled the engine 3 times, rebuilt it twice, spent countless hours under in and around the car fixing other s*** that kept it off the road. All that and in the last 7 years the car has done under 6000 miles. About 4500 of those have been since the last rebuild since I stopped being stubborn and tightened my belt, ate ramen for 2 years, worked my a** off and spent what needed to be spent, now the car is fairly reliable and capable of ~600 rwhp (as soon as I spend $1000 on the 720cc injectors and bits that is). Mind you its rolling on stock wheels, stock springs, stock brakes, with a ehh-sososhitty custom 3" CBE that I had made on the cheap just to stay legal for the time being. My point is this: You can do it cheap, hell you could probably get away with spending under $10k on it and having the car start and drive but it wont be the car you want and it wont be on the road for long before you are forced to either sell it as a failed project or dump an insurmountable amount of money into it at even intervals just to keep it safe and running. I am not the only one that has learned the hard way although being as hard headed as I am I think I've had one of the most "colorful" experience.
NolimitZ32 wrote:Any time man. Just make sure you don't pop that cherry. Hahahaha sorry had to.
Glad you did this Anton, I just couldn't be so specific and didn't want to crush the young man's spirit either.NolimitZ32 wrote:You seem to be in fairly good spirits and open to suggestions so I'll play nice. As you asked me in your other thread where does the other $23k come from?
Here it is-
Engine management/tuning: $500 (if you know HEX better than English and can rewire the harness yourself) - $4000 (if you go all out standalone with wiring, setup and tune) so averages to roughly $2k
Cooling system: $500-$1000 (depending on how elaborate you want to get)
Exhaust: $1000+ (Custom from the turbo/turbos all the way to the tips)
Intercooler & piping: $1000+ (once again all custom)
Misc. metal fab work: $1000+ (the RB was never meant to fit so cutting, beating, welding and cursing will be required)
Install of the whole shebang: $4000 (guess as labor prices differ greatly)
So you are thinking, hey that's only $10k. If you are buying a RB or any used engine there are certain things that should be changed to new before installation unless you want s*** to start breaking right after you get her running, here's that list:
New oil pump: $300 something IIRC
New waterpump & timing kit: $500
All new gaskets/seals kit: $300
Turbos: $200 (if they are good and just need to be cleaned & inspected, balance checked) $3000 if you need new ones
Clutch: $500-$700 for a basic exedy or southbend that will hold the power, want to go fancy? $3500
Flywheel: Using factory? $100 to machine and balance, want something better $300-$1000 depending on how nice.
Misc bolts, nuts, gaskets, sealants, hoses, couplers, sensors, maintenance items (spark plugs, oils, lubes, filters, etc) $500+ before its all said and done.
Labor to do all that: $2000 if you're lucky.
That's about $16.5k all in, this is assuming that the engine you get is in good condition with good compression, good working accessories (A/C, alt, PS pump, etc.) and that the car doesn't need anything like wheel bearings, seals, PS rack, PS lines, A/C Lines, trans & power harnesses, so on and so forth. If you are planning on swapping a non native engine that's 15+ years old into a car that's 20+ years old and you want to be happy with it a the end and not have a decade long headache on your hands than you need to do all these things together because a Z32 with an RB26 and bad wheel-bearings isn't going to go very far or very safely. I know this because I stared my TT swap when I was 19, when I didn't know any better, now 9 years later, I have pulled the engine 3 times, rebuilt it twice, spent countless hours under in and around the car fixing other s*** that kept it off the road. All that and in the last 7 years the car has done under 6000 miles. About 4500 of those have been since the last rebuild since I stopped being stubborn and tightened my belt, ate ramen for 2 years, worked my a** off and spent what needed to be spent, now the car is fairly reliable and capable of ~600 rwhp (as soon as I spend $1000 on the 720cc injectors and bits that is). Mind you its rolling on stock wheels, stock springs, stock brakes, with a ehh-sososhitty custom 3" CBE that I had made on the cheap just to stay legal for the time being. My point is this: You can do it cheap, hell you could probably get away with spending under $10k on it and having the car start and drive but it wont be the car you want and it wont be on the road for long before you are forced to either sell it as a failed project or dump an insurmountable amount of money into it at even intervals just to keep it safe and running. I am not the only one that has learned the hard way although being as hard headed as I am I think I've had one of the most "colorful" experience.