my engine rebuild / parts / etc thread

[biosehnsucht]

Hahah I was thinking about that but I have no idea what I did with the stock one, I had an injen on the KAE..

[biosehnsucht]

AHAHA WTF END ME

I just found the hose while pulling out the Injen to see about haxing up the injen.. it was in the same box, which is also the box I had the CA intake parts in... THATS THE FIRST PLACE I LOOKED !?!?

[biosehnsucht]

IT RUNS !(@*%!*@%*(!@%

can't idle warmed up but no overheating and we broke it in, I'll play with idle stuff tomarrow. Idles cold fine, so not sure what the problem is but likely timing / idle adjustment / who knows.

Had an issue with my coil relay wiring I did.. I'm too used to digital electronics and didn't think of all the crazy backwards ground through power **** things can happen so I hooked up the battery and one of the relays started clicking like crazy... so bypassed it for now, jumpered the coil power and tomarrow I'll actually do it correctly so it works..

[NeedCAforS13]

awesome dude congrats!

Sean

[float_6969]

congrats bro! pics, pics, pics, and a vid if possible.

[8ggalant]

so awesome...glad to here its running...keep us updated

[biosehnsucht]

Now its not running at all, cold or hot (well technically can't get it hot.. but after breaking it in last night and it was hot it wouldn't idle anymore)

Both ECUs (stock) are throwing MAF code (12) but all maf wiring checks out and I tested MAF output AT the ECU on the back of the harness connector and it was giving sane voltages (should be 1.5V at idle but it won't idle at all so friend has to keep revving it up so its from 1-2k rpm, voltages were mostly 2-2.5v, sometimes dropping to near 1.5 when it almost stalled (As it passed the normal idle rev range), so the MAF seems fine.

Tried unhooking MAF, and it had no change except couldn't go above 2k. If we forced it higher in RPM (past 2k, say to 3kish) it ran smoother but still would try and die the moment you let off, also if you tried to release the clutch while letting it attempt to idle it immediately dies (even if it was only slowly dieing), and also makes it harder to keep it running.

Haven't ghetto'd up a spark plug wire to check timing but did try just rotating the CAS blindly and was able to make it smoother a bit around 2k by retarding the timing a bit, say around 1/4 of max adjust from full retard, but that hurt it elsewhere, and it would still start falling on its face higher up in RPM..

also tried playing w/ the idle adjust screw, I was able to make things worse but not any better than it was before..

It's not smoking anymore so the exhaust gaskets seem to have gasketed themselves in place..

one thing might be affecting it is still have the coilpack power jumpered w/ a 14 ga wire from one side of the coil relay to the other, that worked fine last night however, tomarrow (too cold now) I will correct my fubar on the coil relay wiring so it works as intended (It's jumpered now because putting in the relay (connecting both sides of the coil portion) causes crazy relay clixing)

so far haven't gotten any other codes than 12 from the ECUs..

any ideas, assuming its not all fixed by the coil shiznits?

also last night I heard whooshing air sound near the end of the coldpipe towrds the TB hose, couldn't determine where it came from and it seemed to be running fine while we were breaking it in, today I never noticed anything from there but we couldn't get it running smoothly/steady enough to be sure. All hte clamps are very tight and I felt no air escaping, so it may havej ust been the sound of it whooshing through the pipe, although it seems unlikely. I'll check that again tomarrow too but I don't think that would make it unable to idle completely (since no MAF would have same effect of unmetered air and it changed nothing).
Modified by biosehnsucht at 12:57 AM 12/22/2004

[RMiller]

Hmm...it's weird that it's throwing a maf code if you're sure the wiring is correct.

-check fuel pump-injectors-o2 sensor-the KA-E throttle body rubber pipe with the ~1/2 inch nipple will pop from the boost if you don't reinforce it. Crap, I'm really sorry I didn't mention that. You could have a slit in between the accordian stuff, which is VERY hard to see. That would explain the noise.... I did that exact same thing and I was stumped because I couldn't find the hole, but it was there, hidden in the crease. What I then did was compress the accordian section and wrap it tightly in duct tape, then electrical tape. Don't laugh, I just bought mandrel bends to replace all my plastic and rubber crap.

GOOD LUCK.

[biosehnsucht]

Hrm interesting, hadn't through of that. pain to get it off and on (it doesn't quite want to fit since I'm using 90% SR piping, but CA coldipie, hotpipe, and TB to coldipe), but doable, I'll double check it..

I'm using the CA TB right now, but we did jack a shedload of various size clamps from a turbo DSM at the junkyard, it was a goldmine.Couldn't get either the E or DE TB to fit AND have the throttle cable be attatchable...

[biosehnsucht]

IT LIIIIVES

It was cyl 1's coil, pulled it and checked resistance, it was 400+ ohms. spec is 0.6-0.8 ohms

the other 3 were .6, so I dug out another I had that was .6 and swapped it in; also found #3's little electrode tip from the coil to the sparkplug was fubar so I swapped it too (altho it seemed to be functioning fine I'd be afraid it'd be arcing any gap)

Second gear scares me.No first until I get better rubber, thats how much second gear scares me.

Then again I'm used to a poorly running KA under 2000 RPM likely making under 90 to the wheels, so I might just be a tad off on the butt dyno.

[8ggalant]

AWESOME