Too late to be bothered with editing and posting pictures, but short update. Hadn't updated yet due to not having camera on hand ..
Got the block and head put together, from the pan the valvecovers (altho valvecovers not actually bolted down as we knew we'd be taking them off and on whilst dealing with the other bits)
Got the oil dipstick guide in and the intake manifold on, the manifold we had already dremelled out for the KA-E throttle body..
pictures tomarrow.
my engine rebuild / parts / etc thread
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r34 gtr
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that looks pretty awesome. looks like the car will be quite impressive when you get it all back together. i just used some 20w50 to lube everything up when i put mine back together. hope it works alright, i did use a ton of it.
if you get that thing running before i get mine running, it will be quite pathetic on my part. ive gotta hurry up!
- tim
if you get that thing running before i get mine running, it will be quite pathetic on my part. ive gotta hurry up!
- tim
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biosehnsucht
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Re: (biosehnsucht)
Alright, now backing up the narritive a bit.
After the last pictures posted, the next thing we worked on was the head since we couldn't finish the block without it, and we wanted to put it together where it was clean (friend's place) rather than not (my place).
Note for anyone trying this: building the head first and slapping it on is possible, but stupid. It weighs so much it was near impossible to fit to the block properly since we could barely hold it up and try to line it up with the studs at the same time.
Anyways, we decided to try and de-gunk the lifters. The first night we soaked them in acetone, as soon as we poured the acetone in on top of them, we could see evilly dark black ooze slowly seeping out of the oiling hole on top. We left them overnight liek this, came back and the liquid was darkened, we poured it out, and at this point we had brought my kerosene over for cleaning various stuffs, so we decided to soak another night (as we're still working on other things) in the kerosene. Again, MORE stuff oozed out! Next night, again the liquid is darkened this time its practically pitch black, can hardly see the lifters. Drain again, this time we soaked it overnight in 10w20 or something (I forget), we got the cheapest stuff there was at Wal-Mart (Ford Motorcraft!). We soaked it in that for a night, drained and then putfresh oil in while working on the head getting ready to put them in.
Lifters after acetone, kerosene, and 10W20 baths:
Had to play with the brightness to make the oil look anything than straight black, haha..
Now we worked on putting together the head.
Head, freshly removed from the bag it's been in since coming back from Stoid Racing (Homepage):
Cams and cam towers cleaned and ready to go in:
Lifters in:
Forgot to take a picture of the cams bolted in, and keep forgetting.Valvecovers on and ready to be transported back to my place:
Now the rest of the story takes place in my garage.First, we cleaned it up / moved things around to fit the car in (bad picture as this was done at night, I'm amazed I could max out the levels enough to see anything):
Now during this time, we took my oilpan to Rotary Performance (as my friend has hookups there and its only ~5 minutes from his house) (Homepage) to get a second oil return bung welded in, for now its purpose is our little secret
Oil pan w/ new bung:
Next, we started working on the block. ARP headstuds installed, and OEM UK (all) / JDM (auto only) oil cooler:
You can see the tight fit there between the cooler water inlet/outlet (forget which it is) and the oil tube that goes up to the top of the head.
After this came installing the head. That was a nightmare, seeing as we'd already put it together and it now weighed a ton. Trying to line it up on the studs was not easy. Also, the 12 pt 1/2" socket I had that fit wasn't deep, so we had to get another one and grind it down so it fit in the well, before we could torque it down. I'm keeping that socket. No pictures here, didn't have camera (mom took it for thanksgiving). We also installed the oil pump, water pump, and oil pan.
We then installed hte timing belt and tensioner/idler etc and set the timing properly (with OEM belt so easy! it has markings for which way faces front, where the top is, and where each of the marked teeth on the cam gears and crank gear should go! It's impossible to screw up!), installed front covers. Again, no pictures, same reason.
Next we dremelled out the throttle body opening on the plenum to take my KA-E throttle body, both for the 'performance upgrade' and the fact that I'd like to have working cruise control still. Interestingly it will have to be installed 'upside down' vs the KA-E. We also cleaned out the manifold in the process of cleaning out all the aluminum shavings from the dremelling.
Modified plenum:
I had lost the oil dipstick guide and we were unable to find it but my friend stumbled upon it as we cleaned up and moved things around in prepeartion of putting the intake manifold on, since once its on if we didn't move the engine over we couldn't walk past it anymore. Turns out we had to take the front covers and crank pully off again, along with loosening the belt, pulling out the idler about 3/4" and then we could install it, then we had to retime the belt (exhaust cam had jumped) and put it all back together again, DOH. Glad we found it, had ordered a DE one and was going to install it when it came in, after we had the engine the car. That would have been pretty much impossible w/o having to do all that WITH it in the car.
Next, we cleaned up the gasket residue on the manifold and installed it, have yet to actually torque it down (need to get a crow's feet set).
Intake installed:
As you can see the oil cooler JUST clears the intake manifold by about 2 cm..
This is pretty much where we're at now.
Hopefully today we can slap on the exhaust mani+turbo, pull the KA out and sling it onto the other stand (taking the other block off it since we have spare boxen to store it in now) and pull the KA transmission also.. if we're lucky get the CA transmission in and CA motor but I'm doubting that will happen today.
Modified by biosehnsucht at 5:15 AM 1/15/2007
After the last pictures posted, the next thing we worked on was the head since we couldn't finish the block without it, and we wanted to put it together where it was clean (friend's place) rather than not (my place).
Note for anyone trying this: building the head first and slapping it on is possible, but stupid. It weighs so much it was near impossible to fit to the block properly since we could barely hold it up and try to line it up with the studs at the same time.
Anyways, we decided to try and de-gunk the lifters. The first night we soaked them in acetone, as soon as we poured the acetone in on top of them, we could see evilly dark black ooze slowly seeping out of the oiling hole on top. We left them overnight liek this, came back and the liquid was darkened, we poured it out, and at this point we had brought my kerosene over for cleaning various stuffs, so we decided to soak another night (as we're still working on other things) in the kerosene. Again, MORE stuff oozed out! Next night, again the liquid is darkened this time its practically pitch black, can hardly see the lifters. Drain again, this time we soaked it overnight in 10w20 or something (I forget), we got the cheapest stuff there was at Wal-Mart (Ford Motorcraft!). We soaked it in that for a night, drained and then putfresh oil in while working on the head getting ready to put them in.
Lifters after acetone, kerosene, and 10W20 baths:
Had to play with the brightness to make the oil look anything than straight black, haha..
Now we worked on putting together the head.
Head, freshly removed from the bag it's been in since coming back from Stoid Racing (Homepage):
Cams and cam towers cleaned and ready to go in:
Lifters in:
Forgot to take a picture of the cams bolted in, and keep forgetting.Valvecovers on and ready to be transported back to my place:
Now the rest of the story takes place in my garage.First, we cleaned it up / moved things around to fit the car in (bad picture as this was done at night, I'm amazed I could max out the levels enough to see anything):
Now during this time, we took my oilpan to Rotary Performance (as my friend has hookups there and its only ~5 minutes from his house) (Homepage) to get a second oil return bung welded in, for now its purpose is our little secret
Oil pan w/ new bung:
Next, we started working on the block. ARP headstuds installed, and OEM UK (all) / JDM (auto only) oil cooler:
You can see the tight fit there between the cooler water inlet/outlet (forget which it is) and the oil tube that goes up to the top of the head.
After this came installing the head. That was a nightmare, seeing as we'd already put it together and it now weighed a ton. Trying to line it up on the studs was not easy. Also, the 12 pt 1/2" socket I had that fit wasn't deep, so we had to get another one and grind it down so it fit in the well, before we could torque it down. I'm keeping that socket. No pictures here, didn't have camera (mom took it for thanksgiving). We also installed the oil pump, water pump, and oil pan.
We then installed hte timing belt and tensioner/idler etc and set the timing properly (with OEM belt so easy! it has markings for which way faces front, where the top is, and where each of the marked teeth on the cam gears and crank gear should go! It's impossible to screw up!), installed front covers. Again, no pictures, same reason.
Next we dremelled out the throttle body opening on the plenum to take my KA-E throttle body, both for the 'performance upgrade' and the fact that I'd like to have working cruise control still. Interestingly it will have to be installed 'upside down' vs the KA-E. We also cleaned out the manifold in the process of cleaning out all the aluminum shavings from the dremelling.
Modified plenum:
I had lost the oil dipstick guide and we were unable to find it but my friend stumbled upon it as we cleaned up and moved things around in prepeartion of putting the intake manifold on, since once its on if we didn't move the engine over we couldn't walk past it anymore. Turns out we had to take the front covers and crank pully off again, along with loosening the belt, pulling out the idler about 3/4" and then we could install it, then we had to retime the belt (exhaust cam had jumped) and put it all back together again, DOH. Glad we found it, had ordered a DE one and was going to install it when it came in, after we had the engine the car. That would have been pretty much impossible w/o having to do all that WITH it in the car.
Next, we cleaned up the gasket residue on the manifold and installed it, have yet to actually torque it down (need to get a crow's feet set).
Intake installed:
As you can see the oil cooler JUST clears the intake manifold by about 2 cm..
This is pretty much where we're at now.
Hopefully today we can slap on the exhaust mani+turbo, pull the KA out and sling it onto the other stand (taking the other block off it since we have spare boxen to store it in now) and pull the KA transmission also.. if we're lucky get the CA transmission in and CA motor but I'm doubting that will happen today.
Modified by biosehnsucht at 5:15 AM 1/15/2007
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biosehnsucht
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Re: (biosehnsucht)
Correction to previous post, we used 5W20 not 10W20 to bathe the lifters.
Well, no surprise the KA still is in the car. Took too long for my friend to find someplace that had 12mm crow's foot for torquing the intake manifold.
Don't even have the exhaust manifold on yet, but we got pretty much everything intake side handled. Even got the oil cooler hooked up at both ends. Still need to bolt up the motor mounts / manifold support bits, and the alternator is there right now just so we could tell how we had to route the oil cooler hose.
The oil cooler is meant to connect to the lower water inlet/outlet (forget which it is), but lacking the EDM/JDM (automatic) specific pipe there having to improvise. Also at the back, the fitting to the block that goes to the heater core has a second fitting that sticks out straight from the end that goes to the other end of the cooler. We've used a T there from the one going to the heater, and a T at the front after the T going to the heater (other side of the heater), we'll have some work to do with the radiator hoses, hopefully we won't have to do anything too wild..
Pictures of the oil cooler hooked into the heater / coolant hoses:
Intake manifold on with most of the odds and ends:
Modified by biosehnsucht at 5:15 AM 1/15/2007
Well, no surprise the KA still is in the car. Took too long for my friend to find someplace that had 12mm crow's foot for torquing the intake manifold.
Don't even have the exhaust manifold on yet, but we got pretty much everything intake side handled. Even got the oil cooler hooked up at both ends. Still need to bolt up the motor mounts / manifold support bits, and the alternator is there right now just so we could tell how we had to route the oil cooler hose.
The oil cooler is meant to connect to the lower water inlet/outlet (forget which it is), but lacking the EDM/JDM (automatic) specific pipe there having to improvise. Also at the back, the fitting to the block that goes to the heater core has a second fitting that sticks out straight from the end that goes to the other end of the cooler. We've used a T there from the one going to the heater, and a T at the front after the T going to the heater (other side of the heater), we'll have some work to do with the radiator hoses, hopefully we won't have to do anything too wild..
Pictures of the oil cooler hooked into the heater / coolant hoses:
Intake manifold on with most of the odds and ends:
Modified by biosehnsucht at 5:15 AM 1/15/2007
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biosehnsucht
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Re: (biosehnsucht)
Well, almost there. The engine is pretty much ready to drop in, minus accessories; AutoZone couldn't test the starter (didn't know how, their system doesn't have a listing for either the 240 or the Pulsar, wtf?) and the alternators came up dead (2V on one 5V on the other) so tomarrow need to get one of the alternators rebuilt and try to find someplace that can test the starter.
We got all the exhaust side stuff bolted up, nothing really left before we drop it in, as far as the motor itself goes:
Modified by biosehnsucht at 5:16 AM 1/15/2007
We got all the exhaust side stuff bolted up, nothing really left before we drop it in, as far as the motor itself goes:
Modified by biosehnsucht at 5:16 AM 1/15/2007
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float_6969
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2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily) - Location: Topeka, Kansas
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biosehnsucht
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Re: (biosehnsucht)
THE KA IS OUT
Short version for now, rolled the car out to the driveway, threw together the hoist and started hoisting. Had to pull off the hood of course, already had everything except the transmission mount / crossmember unbolted.. driveshaft was in place still, tried to unhook it from the diff but @#(% that, can't get anything on it with any leverage. Decided to just drag the whole engine + transmission out from the driveshaft, worked fine. :P It wasn't easy as we had to juggle things around to get it out but we did.
Almost there!!:
Man, and I thought the engine was big!:
Stage 5 Weight Reduction:
Modified by biosehnsucht at 5:16 AM 1/15/2007
Short version for now, rolled the car out to the driveway, threw together the hoist and started hoisting. Had to pull off the hood of course, already had everything except the transmission mount / crossmember unbolted.. driveshaft was in place still, tried to unhook it from the diff but @#(% that, can't get anything on it with any leverage. Decided to just drag the whole engine + transmission out from the driveshaft, worked fine. :P It wasn't easy as we had to juggle things around to get it out but we did.
Almost there!!:
Man, and I thought the engine was big!:
Stage 5 Weight Reduction:
Modified by biosehnsucht at 5:16 AM 1/15/2007
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float_6969
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biosehnsucht
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Re: (float_6969)
Yeah to make use of it though you need Stage 23 Psi-Powers so you can power the vehicle with your own mind. You build boost as fast as you can will it, so unless you feel like it no lag. Hell, normally I'd use anti-lag - you boost retroactively in time, making power before you thought to.
...
Anywho..
we tried to get the flywheel bolts off the KA to put in on the stand but couldn't impact it off or brute force it w/ pry bar holding the flywheel and socket wrench + massive breaker bar.. the prybar was bending we were putting so much effort into it.. but we found the KA is quite happy to just sit in the corner by itself, it's propped against one of the big wooden box things by the wall and it can't fall over the other way cause the oil pan drain bolt is holding it in place.
my KA clutch was more or less no longer there, that explains why when it heats up (30+ min driving or stop and go traffic) it mad slips. the flywheel shows signs of mad chatter.. I mean really, we were looking at the clutch going WHERE IS THE CLUTCH
the motor and transmission mounts were pretty blown out too, the transmission mount is the worst, its doing nothing.. the motor mounts are physically there but it looks like they've probably leaked out the damper fluid ages ago
hopefully tomorrow we can rent an impact gun from home depot or something with enough torque to pwn those flywheel bolts, mine (350 or something (peak) ft lbs) is very NSF.
I'm sure there was more interesting details but I'm too tired to remember..
...
Anywho..
we tried to get the flywheel bolts off the KA to put in on the stand but couldn't impact it off or brute force it w/ pry bar holding the flywheel and socket wrench + massive breaker bar.. the prybar was bending we were putting so much effort into it.. but we found the KA is quite happy to just sit in the corner by itself, it's propped against one of the big wooden box things by the wall and it can't fall over the other way cause the oil pan drain bolt is holding it in place.
my KA clutch was more or less no longer there, that explains why when it heats up (30+ min driving or stop and go traffic) it mad slips. the flywheel shows signs of mad chatter.. I mean really, we were looking at the clutch going WHERE IS THE CLUTCH
the motor and transmission mounts were pretty blown out too, the transmission mount is the worst, its doing nothing.. the motor mounts are physically there but it looks like they've probably leaked out the damper fluid ages ago
hopefully tomorrow we can rent an impact gun from home depot or something with enough torque to pwn those flywheel bolts, mine (350 or something (peak) ft lbs) is very NSF.
I'm sure there was more interesting details but I'm too tired to remember..
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r34 gtr
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dude, ive got a hand drill with more power than that.
looking awesome though! keep those updates coming!
oh, and by the way, i couldnt get mine off by just pulling on them. i held the crank pulley with a 18in breaker bar and just yanked on the bolts against the compression of the engine. turned the wrench back a little, then full-out reefed on it the other way. they came off pretty easily, despite the paint that was over them, holding them on.
- tim
looking awesome though! keep those updates coming!
oh, and by the way, i couldnt get mine off by just pulling on them. i held the crank pulley with a 18in breaker bar and just yanked on the bolts against the compression of the engine. turned the wrench back a little, then full-out reefed on it the other way. they came off pretty easily, despite the paint that was over them, holding them on.
- tim
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biosehnsucht
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Re: (biosehnsucht)
We tried a breaker bar + socket on the crank.. just undid the crank bolt when trying to undo the flywheel bolt instead.
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float_6969
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I had to cut them off of my KA and then get new ones from Nissan. Just make 2 cuts in an 'X' pattern on the head of the bolt. Then use a chisle and spread the metal where your cut it at. That will cause the metal to break and the head of the bolt will come off in peices. Now all thats left is the stud and you can usually spray some lubricant on it and get it out later. I'd still try the new impact on it first though. Thats kind of a last resort kinda thing..
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biosehnsucht
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Re: (biosehnsucht)
We finished the harness a few days ago, but opened it up for a slight operation to add in the connector for the butterfly control solenoid so I can run the manifold properly not ghetto rigged to intake vacuum/boost. So now it's really complete and installed in the car, getting the grommet on was a *****, had to shank the **** out of it and lube it up with DC-4 to get it all the way on.
We cleaned up the transmission and got it installed last night, using two jacks to lift it into place, mating it to the driveshaft part way up and then lifting it and pushing it backwards in increments to get the driveshaft lined up.
We just barely managed to get two working switches out of all 3 transmissions (KA, two CAs) for Reverse and Neutral, swapping the KA switches' connectors onto them so it'll mate to the KA harness.
The CA transmission we used was the least beat up etc one, but was still mad dirty. My friend did most of the work of cleaning it up.
Partly through doing the switches I decided to pull off the stubby remains of a clutch line on the CA and put the KA clutch line on it.. only to find the they were both seized. I got the CA one off by cutting off the entire thing up to the metal fitting, and then used a deep socket to get it off. The KA wouldn't budge, and no point cutting it if I can't replace it.
So, it's ~6:55PM. Only thing I can think of is reading on sr20.hybrids.jp that they used a RX-7 clutch line, and since my friend has the hookups at Rotary Performance hopefully we could get one that night. I ran inside to try and double check which model it was from. Naturally the site won't load, so I have to go to archive.org and pull it up, and find it to be a FC3S. Run back to the garage, try to call Rotary but no one is answering, it's ~7:05 at this point; they close at 7, and aren't open on the weekends. We lock the car, throw everything in the garage (leaving car in the driveway for now) and get jump in my friend's car (~7:15) and haul *** to Rotary, get there in 10 minutes (normally a 15-20 minute drive), drive past the front to the back and ricer park in a hurry and run to the back door - it's unlocked. Thankfully Ari and Chris are still in closing shop, they just don't answer the phone after hours. They do stock the part, so now I am the proud owner of a FC3S stainless steel clutch line, the stainless steel braid is even protected with a clear jacket of some kind.
We headed back home in a more sane fashion and test fitted it, and it's perfect. It's actually about 1" longer than stock which is fine.
After making sure that was taken care of 'we' (meaning he, I just kept standing it on end to drain the B-12 out of the bell housing so he could clean more) cleaned the transmission and then started the task of getting it in the car, which invloved jacking it up more on one side so we could slide it in sideways to clear the frame rail on the passenger side, and then brute forcing it onto the jacks (with a peice of wood under the front, to give a flat jacking surface). Then we did the typical two-jack redneck transmission install without too much difficulty except for suddenly realizing the CA's dust cover on the output shaft won't fit on the US driveshaft (just barely rubbed), so we dropped it partially, brute forced the driveshaft back out and knocked the dust cover off, can't put on the KA one it refuses to come off the KA transmission.
I figure I can afford an aluminum driveshaft and rebuild the other transmission before its an issue.. so give it a year or two
Finished Harness:
Dirty Transmission (and test fitted clutch line):
Cleaned Transmission:
Installed Transmission:
FC3S RX-7 Stainless Steel Clutch Line:
Modified by biosehnsucht at 5:17 AM 1/15/2007
We cleaned up the transmission and got it installed last night, using two jacks to lift it into place, mating it to the driveshaft part way up and then lifting it and pushing it backwards in increments to get the driveshaft lined up.
We just barely managed to get two working switches out of all 3 transmissions (KA, two CAs) for Reverse and Neutral, swapping the KA switches' connectors onto them so it'll mate to the KA harness.
The CA transmission we used was the least beat up etc one, but was still mad dirty. My friend did most of the work of cleaning it up.
Partly through doing the switches I decided to pull off the stubby remains of a clutch line on the CA and put the KA clutch line on it.. only to find the they were both seized. I got the CA one off by cutting off the entire thing up to the metal fitting, and then used a deep socket to get it off. The KA wouldn't budge, and no point cutting it if I can't replace it.
So, it's ~6:55PM. Only thing I can think of is reading on sr20.hybrids.jp that they used a RX-7 clutch line, and since my friend has the hookups at Rotary Performance hopefully we could get one that night. I ran inside to try and double check which model it was from. Naturally the site won't load, so I have to go to archive.org and pull it up, and find it to be a FC3S. Run back to the garage, try to call Rotary but no one is answering, it's ~7:05 at this point; they close at 7, and aren't open on the weekends. We lock the car, throw everything in the garage (leaving car in the driveway for now) and get jump in my friend's car (~7:15) and haul *** to Rotary, get there in 10 minutes (normally a 15-20 minute drive), drive past the front to the back and ricer park in a hurry and run to the back door - it's unlocked. Thankfully Ari and Chris are still in closing shop, they just don't answer the phone after hours. They do stock the part, so now I am the proud owner of a FC3S stainless steel clutch line, the stainless steel braid is even protected with a clear jacket of some kind.
We headed back home in a more sane fashion and test fitted it, and it's perfect. It's actually about 1" longer than stock which is fine.
After making sure that was taken care of 'we' (meaning he, I just kept standing it on end to drain the B-12 out of the bell housing so he could clean more) cleaned the transmission and then started the task of getting it in the car, which invloved jacking it up more on one side so we could slide it in sideways to clear the frame rail on the passenger side, and then brute forcing it onto the jacks (with a peice of wood under the front, to give a flat jacking surface). Then we did the typical two-jack redneck transmission install without too much difficulty except for suddenly realizing the CA's dust cover on the output shaft won't fit on the US driveshaft (just barely rubbed), so we dropped it partially, brute forced the driveshaft back out and knocked the dust cover off, can't put on the KA one it refuses to come off the KA transmission.
I figure I can afford an aluminum driveshaft and rebuild the other transmission before its an issue.. so give it a year or two
Finished Harness:
Dirty Transmission (and test fitted clutch line):
Cleaned Transmission:
Installed Transmission:
FC3S RX-7 Stainless Steel Clutch Line:
Modified by biosehnsucht at 5:17 AM 1/15/2007
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biosehnsucht
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Re: (TeckniX)
the driveshaft problem is because of the big rubber coupler vibration dampner thing on the front of the drive shaft.. teh CA's didn't have that it seems, looks like its a US thing..
ist easier to get the driveshaft into the transmission this way, because we couldn't get the driveshaft off the diff. if you can get the diff bolts loose, then you're better off removing the driveshaft completely, dropping in engine + transmission together, jacking up the back of the transmission as you bring it in and bolt all the mounts in etc, then slip driveshaft into transmission and then bolt up the diff end. but since we couldn't, we didn't. the way we did it allowed us to bring it up level and move it backwards into the shaft and once it mated to keep moving it back and up smoothly, instead of trying to rotate it as we dropped it from above..
clutches, do some searches / read the FAQ (third sticky thread from the top! READ IT DAMNIT!! BEFORE YOU MAKE A SINGLE POST MORE!!), but a KA clutch fits with some modification.. I'm reusing the one from one of the CA motors I have since my KA is very toasted and the CA one is in decent condition, and I'm poor.
ist easier to get the driveshaft into the transmission this way, because we couldn't get the driveshaft off the diff. if you can get the diff bolts loose, then you're better off removing the driveshaft completely, dropping in engine + transmission together, jacking up the back of the transmission as you bring it in and bolt all the mounts in etc, then slip driveshaft into transmission and then bolt up the diff end. but since we couldn't, we didn't. the way we did it allowed us to bring it up level and move it backwards into the shaft and once it mated to keep moving it back and up smoothly, instead of trying to rotate it as we dropped it from above..
clutches, do some searches / read the FAQ (third sticky thread from the top! READ IT DAMNIT!! BEFORE YOU MAKE A SINGLE POST MORE!!), but a KA clutch fits with some modification.. I'm reusing the one from one of the CA motors I have since my KA is very toasted and the CA one is in decent condition, and I'm poor.
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float_6969
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- Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily) - Location: Topeka, Kansas
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Re: (biosehnsucht)
As for the dampener, I was lucky enough to get the CA driveshaft w/my clip, so my dust sheild is still on there AND I got rid of that rubber dapener. Woot! But yes, if you can't get the driveshaft off, that is the only way to do it. I've never had a problem with it though, so I've had it easy...biosehnsucht wrote:the driveshaft problem is because of the big rubber coupler vibration dampner thing on the front of the drive shaft.. teh CA's didn't have that it seems, looks like its a US thing..
ist easier to get the driveshaft into the transmission this way, because we couldn't get the driveshaft off the diff. if you can get the diff bolts loose, then you're better off removing the driveshaft completely, dropping in engine + transmission together, jacking up the back of the transmission as you bring it in and bolt all the mounts in etc, then slip driveshaft into transmission and then bolt up the diff end. but since we couldn't, we didn't. the way we did it allowed us to bring it up level and move it backwards into the shaft and once it mated to keep moving it back and up smoothly, instead of trying to rotate it as we dropped it from above..
clutches, do some searches / read the FAQ (third sticky thread from the top! READ IT DAMNIT!! BEFORE YOU MAKE A SINGLE POST MORE!!), but a KA clutch fits with some modification.. I'm reusing the one from one of the CA motors I have since my KA is very toasted and the CA one is in decent condition, and I'm poor.
Re: (float_6969)
In the first car I put my CA in I was able to drop transmission and motor together and slide the driveshaft in as the motor was put in place. It was miserable. A lot of shaking, cursing, etc. but it worked. The second time I just removed a small portion of the driveshaft, the part less than a foot long that is clamped in place. So you don't have to remove the whole driveshaft.
The dust shield on the KA will come out. I spent some time with it before I figured out how to do it. Use a hammer and strike the side of the shield and it will come out. Do it gradually around its circumference and there you go.
Use the speed sensor from the KA transmission, since the CA one should be different due to the different differential that came on CA-powered cars.
Cuzan0 sells clutches for 289 shipped. It's a Hyper, 6 puck metal sprung. I use it and he uses it. Pedal feel is light, but it is grabby. It's definitely not like an on/off switch, it is really easy to ride it, there's just less "riding travel" like on a stock clutch. Spec is only other alternative I found, or you can grind off an alignment pin and use a KA clutch. Picture of the clutch:
Check out my burnt out KA clutch:
Modified by RMiller at 10:39 AM 12/16/2004
The dust shield on the KA will come out. I spent some time with it before I figured out how to do it. Use a hammer and strike the side of the shield and it will come out. Do it gradually around its circumference and there you go.
Use the speed sensor from the KA transmission, since the CA one should be different due to the different differential that came on CA-powered cars.
Cuzan0 sells clutches for 289 shipped. It's a Hyper, 6 puck metal sprung. I use it and he uses it. Pedal feel is light, but it is grabby. It's definitely not like an on/off switch, it is really easy to ride it, there's just less "riding travel" like on a stock clutch. Spec is only other alternative I found, or you can grind off an alignment pin and use a KA clutch. Picture of the clutch:
Check out my burnt out KA clutch:
Modified by RMiller at 10:39 AM 12/16/2004
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float_6969
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biosehnsucht
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Re: (float_6969)
Huh, I could see them while I was at work earlier..
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iliketocrash
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Re: (biosehnsucht)
I was wondering if it was at all possible for you to take some close up shots of your harness for me. Close ups of both the connectors that are right next to the ECU plug, your injectors, and a list of any plugs you might have cut off. I am trying to wire my CA and it is a daunting task! If you will, email pics to me at: [email protected].biosehnsucht wrote:
Finished Harness:
Thanks,Mike
Re: (float_6969)
There we go. Got one other picture up. The burnt out clutch. All the clutch pad was shredded up and inside my bell housing like confetti. See above.float_6969 wrote:no pics...
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float_6969
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JustinStrife
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biosehnsucht
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Re: (biosehnsucht)
Well I'm up **** creek for now, just realized as we put in the cold pipe that I have nothing to go from coldpipe to throttle body.
Anyone have a spare hose for that? I can ghetto it but since my friend who's been helping me is leaving town tomarrow for two weeks I'm kinda SOL for now unless I can get someone else to drive me around, but with my work schedule thats not so likely to work out..
Also, have yet to figure out how to get the throttle cables to work w/ the E or DE bracket on the E or DE TB so as to keep cruise control. I have an E, a DE, both brackets, even a stanza bracket, and the CA bracket and TB. right now its hooked up w/ CA on both because the throttle cable wasn't able to adjust far enough to work with the other TBs/brackets in any combination.
Otherwise it's almost ready to go.. oil and transmission fluid are in, didn't fill/bleed clutch yet, no coolant yet (altho we could have, just no point yet). got the SMIC in, just leaving the fender liner off for now, the SMIC is bolted up on the left side, nothing to bolt it to on the right so its just being supported by the cold/hot pipes.. the CA coldpipe doesn't quite fit right since its SR SMIC, but the hood closes so it'll work once I have a usable hose to the TB. I have a SR coldpipe I was going to modify but never had time, that and it would never have cleared the radiator shroud and I still have mechanical fan (no $$ keeps disappearing into other aspects of the swap)..
time to pass out, have to get up super early so I can walk to the train station
Anyone have a spare hose for that? I can ghetto it but since my friend who's been helping me is leaving town tomarrow for two weeks I'm kinda SOL for now unless I can get someone else to drive me around, but with my work schedule thats not so likely to work out..
Also, have yet to figure out how to get the throttle cables to work w/ the E or DE bracket on the E or DE TB so as to keep cruise control. I have an E, a DE, both brackets, even a stanza bracket, and the CA bracket and TB. right now its hooked up w/ CA on both because the throttle cable wasn't able to adjust far enough to work with the other TBs/brackets in any combination.
Otherwise it's almost ready to go.. oil and transmission fluid are in, didn't fill/bleed clutch yet, no coolant yet (altho we could have, just no point yet). got the SMIC in, just leaving the fender liner off for now, the SMIC is bolted up on the left side, nothing to bolt it to on the right so its just being supported by the cold/hot pipes.. the CA coldpipe doesn't quite fit right since its SR SMIC, but the hood closes so it'll work once I have a usable hose to the TB. I have a SR coldpipe I was going to modify but never had time, that and it would never have cleared the radiator shroud and I still have mechanical fan (no $$ keeps disappearing into other aspects of the swap)..
time to pass out, have to get up super early so I can walk to the train station
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float_6969
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Re: (float_6969)
I had to cut the throttle cable sleeve to make it fit right. Be careful not to damage the cable.
For the pipe from cold-->throttle I am using (God help me) the one from the KAE. It looks REALLY ghetto. I mean, it almost keeps me awake at night. Try using a Ubend and cutting/welding it to get the right shape. Or, get straight pipe and cut it at angles and weld them to get the shape you want.
For the pipe from cold-->throttle I am using (God help me) the one from the KAE. It looks REALLY ghetto. I mean, it almost keeps me awake at night. Try using a Ubend and cutting/welding it to get the right shape. Or, get straight pipe and cut it at angles and weld them to get the shape you want.