Motor won't start. Need troubleshooting help

[Spazz]

make sure your fuel lines are on the right way

[Darius]

Yep the feed line from the filter is on the bottom tube that leads to the fuel rail. Not the one coming from the fuel pressure regulator and going to the fuel tank.

[USMCgetsome]

ok dude we need to check your eccs relay.

need to check the coil for 12vdc and then when you flip the key to ign the gate should close and should then see it at the fuel injector 12vdc plug. don't be scurred!!!! check it!

bad gas. Pshh. Ok dude did you try to prime the line. To ensure your getting fuel outta the damn fuel filter. So take it off and turn the key forward with the line unplugged. Grab a bucket and let it pour a good amount out and then replug it to the rail. Then try it again. also, check the damn fuel pressure regulator. On the rail. after all that. I'll walk you through the eccs check.
Modified by KUILLIN_DRIFTER at 10:36 PM 4/9/2006

[noodl35]

I had a similar problem on my sr20, it had fuel,air, and spark. Turned out the ecu was set on the wrong mode. Try that.

[USMCgetsome]

you mean to the fully counter clockwise position.

[Darius]

Pulled the FPR and it looked fine. Fuel was in the rail at that point. Blew 60psi through the FPR and I could hear the valve open and it blew air out the fuel return side of the regulator. Will reinstall tonight.

Here's how I tested the ECCS relay...With the key in the OFF position pins 3 (AF29 W/B) and 5 (AF27 B/W) had 12.0V between them. Pins 1 (AF28 W/B) and 2 (AF06 OR) had 0.0V between them.

When I turned the key ON, there was 0.0V between 3 & 5, and 10.8V between pins 1 & 2.

Does this sound like it is working properly?

Here's how I tested the IGN relay...With the key in the OFF position pins 3 (DA31 B/R) and 5 (AF50 W) had 0.0V between them. Pins 1 (AF04 R) and 2 (AF49 OR) had 0.0V between them.

When I turned the key ON, there was 10.8V between 3 & 5, and 0.0V between pins 1 & 2.

Does this sound like it is working properly too?

[USMCgetsome]

hell no it's not working. Here's a simple suggestion. Make some jumper wires for all of them. Jumper 1 & 2 (coil 12vdc) 3 & 5 (gate). Garanteed this will solve the problem. I new something was up with the relay system. Great! Get it cranked over and running. Then we'll go back and solve the relay issue. Maybe not enough current to close the gate or not that good of a ground or maybe it's just not the right relay.

Every time you apply power IGN SWITCH the gate at 3 & 5 will close and send 12vdc to the damn injectors and coil packs.

by the way that was very detailed information. I'm proud of you darius!let's get it started!

[Darius]

I disconnected the relays and measured the voltages at each electrode.

With the key offW/B and R had 12V, and B/W, OR, B/R had 0V

With the key onW/B, R, and B/R had 12V, and B/W and OR had 0V

W/B has power at the ECU and I jumpered the relays and B/W only has power when they key is turned on.

It seems that when I turn the key on, the relays are not clicking over to permanently stay closed. They click over and the fuel pump primes and then they open again.

I jumpered the relays and the B/W, W/B, R and B/R wires had power. Still didn't start/ignite.

[250sxGTST]

I briefly read over your problems. If youre positive you had spark at all6 cyl's crank it over for 30 - 60 seconds. pull the plugs and make sure they are wet with fuel. I fought alot of problems getting my swap to run. If they are wet with fuel disconnect the maf plug dry the plugs and re crank. (i had gotten the wrong maf with my swap and my ecu did not send ground to the maf plug. with the maf disconnected it will fire in limp mode if either of these problems exist. i just ran the ground for the maf to the nearest body bolt. another member had the ground problem and i solved it by telling him to do as i did so it wasnt only my swap that had this problem.) If the plugs arent wet with fuel after 30 sec of cranking check that all the injectors have 12v on both wires with the key on.(you can check them at the 8 pin plug near the upper rad hose) the larger wire is the 12v supply and the 6 smaller wires are the grounds from the injector drivers, but they will have voltage also with the key on because the injector drivers are not grounding them so the voltage will pass through the resistance of the each injector. then diconnect the 8 pin plug and check for a pulse to ground on each of the 6 smaller wires with the engine cranking or while spinning the cas. let me know what happens.

[Darius]

I was on racebread.com and you guys would not believe what got my motor going. I looked and tested and tested all this crap and you know what turned the mother effer over???? I grounded the Orange wire from the IGN relay and the thing fired right up. I think I had a heart attack when I heard it pulse. I wish you guys could have been there, nobody else was around to hear me go berzerk and see me run around the house like a moron.

Seriously, a startup video is soon to come. You guys seriously helped me so much I wish I could repay the favor....

Darius.

[David_NISMO]

CONGRATULATIONS HA HA HA HA.I was alone in a shop at 4a.m. when mine fired up. I was dancing like an idiot around my car too, followed by some praises to Jesus.

I'M SURE I SPEAK FOR EVERYONE, CONGRATULATIONS!!!! wiring can be quite elusive.

[USMCgetsome]

MAN I'M WITH DAVID!! PRAISE THE CAR GODS. Well i have my 2 orange wires going to the pin 16 of the ecu. Per my wiring diagram it reads to do this. So i guess now i'll ground it. I have had my ignition jumper wired to get the relay gates to close.

[Darius]

Jon Powell has been helping out on Racebread too and he said it would be bad to permanently keep the orange wires grounded as the sensors would always be powered. This is hard on the sensors themselves and the battery will drain quickly. If I'm driving the car, I think I can get away with ghetto rigging something up that I have to disconnect every time I turn it off and hook up to start up.

Another option he suggested was to wire another relay in there that was triggered by the key switch and powered from something like the cigarette lighter. That's another option, but I'm also considering going with a Power FC too. Don't know if I want it right now, but I wasn't expecting to need it for a year or so. Decisions decisions...

[Darius]

Here is an update to this thread. Man I get a kick out of reading all that stuff and how desperate I was. Newbie!

Anyways, I went to install my PFC tonight and to disable the boost controller kit option they say to turn the key to ACC and the hand controller light should turn on and disable it through the menus. My hand controller didn't light up, so I flipped the switch that normally gave my standard ECU power and it turned on. I didn't feel comfortable trying to start it with it wired that way because there is obviously a problem and the discontinued PFC isn't cheap or easy to come by.

Here's what I have at my relays:Key in the OFF positionIGN relay - 1,2 have powerECCS relay - 1,2,3 have power (shouldn't 5 have power too )

Key in the ACC positionIGN relay - 1,2 have powerECCS relay - 1,2,3 have power (shouldn't 5 have power too )

Key in the ON positionIGN relay - 1,2,3 have powerECCS relay - 1,2,3 have power (shouldn't 5 have power too )

If I flip my jumper switch and the key is in the ON position I getIGN relay - 1,3,5 (that's odd)ECCS relay - 1,3,5 (that's odd)

FYI the 5 position on the ECCS relay is the B/W wire that is the ECU power wire and plugs into the ECU at pin 49. It seems that even though I have power to the 3 spot on the relays, the relays are not closing to send power to the ECU. I changed relays out with some others that I had laying around and there was no difference in the outcome.


Modified by Darius at 8:12 AM 11/22/2006

[USMCgetsome]

dude just put a switch with 1 for power and on the other side of the switch run the jumpers into the relay plug. Gonna have to do it manually. Sucks but i still haven't figured that problem out. My ign relay gate from 3-5 has never closed. WTF mate. Anyhow, i just jumpered it with a switch and some long wires. problem solved temporarily. one day it will friggin work. Just gotta find out what i did wrong.

[Darius]

Yeah man I'm completely stumped on this one. The white/black wire has power all the time which is the ECU power for memory purposes (good). I installed the switch and have to flip it every time I want to start the car. That will give the black/white wire power to the sensors. The only problem with this is if I forget to flip the switch off, the sensors stay powered and it wears on them and drains my battery.

I think I will be okay running the PFC this way as long as it has constant 12V power from the white/black wires. I'm basically serving as a "manual relay". I'm getting the boost controller in Wednesday so I think I'm going to wait to do the PFC setup until then.

[Darius]

Alright I think I found out why my ECU wasn't grounding. I don't know why the hell this worked out the way it did, but here's what I did. I originally had power supplied to the gray wire for the injectors AT the injector harness clip next to the battery, and power was directly from the battery.

I rewired the gray wire by cutting it at the A-17 plug and running it/extending it to the battery. After I did that, the relays started clicking over when I turned the key and the engine fired without my ghetto grounding switch.

[the_garynator]

I don't want to thread jack, but I've got a wiring mess on my hands right now and I noticed you referred to the connector as A-17. I have scowered the FSM and never been able to find connector names or layouts for them (besides "this is the exhaust sensor plug").

Have I missed it or is there another doc that I'm missing? Any help would be appreciated. If you could shoot me an email to [email protected] (my spam account, I don't want to post my work address for obvious reasons lol) and maybe I could pick your brain a bit.

Thanks, Gary

[Darius]

The A-17 plug is not shown in the FSM. It is shown on the full wiring diagram for the RB25DET engine harness. It is like 33MB so I can't exactly e-mail it to you. It is around here somewhere, just search RB25DET wiring diagram or something similar.