Most common Tune setup for KA-T (Need Reliability)

[OM3GA]

What is the Most common Reliable tune for ka-t I am planning on doing SR Injectors T25 ill get a walbro idk if i need an fpr or not?? Im sorta new to the ka-t thing since i have been researching everything for doing an NA build... Im just wondering what the best way to go about a tune is. I need it to be reliable because it is my DD and im not looking for alot of power. Im looking for maybe 250hp somewhere around there. I have heard of many people doin an E-Mance tune.. others use JWT.. The dude that does the emance tunes is really confident sounding with his stuff and says thats all you need and you can drive it with no problems as long as you give him your correct info.. Im just trying to figure out whats best to do.. I suppose i could get a wideband o2 just for more security.. I just want it to basically be like the ka came stock with the turbo setup.. besides that im doing built internals.. low comp pistons rods etc... i probably wont do anything to the head though.

[samxini]

I've always found this a really good guide, hope it helps you out.[Link Removed]BTW +1 for Ka-t!

[Sorry We Don't Allow hot linking to other sites, we have all the info that they have over there plus more. If you have anymore question please feel free to email me [email protected], or hit me up on AIM:pijaczek18]

[simmode1]

Start reading up cuz there are many ways to skin this particular cat. Try starting with this:

zerothread/310832

[Hijacker]

On to KA-T this thread goes!

[kouki_hmongster]

Make sure to get z32 fuel filter($15) w/ that pump . also aftermarket fpr something like aeromotive or nismo type B(type A wont fit even though listed on frsport that it will) theres more brand in the market. also get somekind of fuel pressure gauge. anyone that tells you about not needing to buy a fpr dont know what they talking about.

Emance is the best and why pay 500 for JWT which works the same as emance and been hearing that JWT tunes runs rich. Plus jason(emance) have a ka-t of his own making 500+whp w/ his own ecu tune.

also JGS oil line kit which is one of the best out there. if you are using a bottom mount manifold that bolts on the sr dp and elbow then you can also use sr hotpipe and FMIC. make sure to use Hump hose couplers to avoid fitment issues.

Wideband is a must you can call marty from injectedperformance.com and tell him your a nico member and he'll hook you up w/ best price for wideband and walbro pump.

370cc should be fine, but if you planning to upgrade to t28 then i recommend getting something around 450cc+. Deastchwerk is really good w/ injectors and you can send in 4 of your 370cc for core exchange of $100. they also have great deals on injectors, just ask.

Almost forgot, if you build up the block then you should be able to boost really high w/ no problem, probably want to upgrade later. the head doesnt really need to be upgraded but if you have extra cash then throw in some cams and dual valve spring, thats just my reference.

This will be really reliable.

here i hope i saved you a lot of searching, but still read the stickies.

Modified by kouki_hmongster at 10:16 AM 7/31/2008
Modified by kouki_hmongster at 10:17 AM 7/31/2008

[OM3GA]

Thanks alot for all your replies so far. Also thanks for moving this thread to the right place. I was tired when i posted and didnt want to click on the engines section of the site hehe. Anyways kouki_hmongster thank you for your useful info although your post count is minimal your knowledge seems high. I have been wondering how i can run a FMIC and what setup i would have to do for the down pipe and everything. I have been scared haha because i want it to be really clean and i want things to fit very well. I dont know what intercooler piping i would be able to use... if you have seen someone elses build please let me know what piping and everything they used because that is also very important to me. I want this all planned out before i start buying things. I will use hump adapters they turn me on.. and i only plan on running the T-25 if i was to upgrade later i would also upgrade the injectors. I doubt it though im not lookin for much power. I just want it to be reliable and fun

[kouki_hmongster]

The reason for very low post count is because this is my new account since i've been using my cousins to log on. the reason why i know what i know is because i turbo'd a ka24de before and did a lot of research on this forum. Just to let you know you can still use 450cc or bigger and still get 25+mpg w/emance, this is based off a member on nico i believe he ran 700cc(something like that) as long as your not in boost and just cruisin then you should be able to save gas.

also, for FMIC you can use sr20 parts as long as the hotpipe is sr20 then it should bolt right up. remember if you buy cheap no brand sr parts then fitment quality is going to suck so you are going to do some adjustment. but lets say you are using legit parts such as HKS hotpipe and greddy FMIC then gaurantee it will bolt right up. you would only have to buy a longer coupler to hold the coldpipe and throttlebody together, make sure to use t-bolt for that.

just make sure the turbo manifold that you buy is made to bolt on to sr elbow and downpipe. The only problem you might have is trying to bolt up the cat to downpipe(i know s13 might need to do it but not sure for s14 chassis). which a muffler shop can custom a test pipe to make it bolt right up.

FOr size you can find a FMIC with 2.5" on hot side and 3" cold side. the common max size for sr20 hotpipe is 2.5". i dont know the physics between this but i know that it builds boost up better for small turbo set-up.

[WDRacing]

For 8 psi or less I'd run either those 370's and a rom tune, emance, jwt, enthalpy or just a FMU and retard your base timing just a hair. The FMU is probably the cheapest/easiest choice and will keep the KA running exactly how it is now except add fuel when it see's boost pressure. It's very under rated for low boost setups. Which I can't understand...it's $110 and you're done. Assuming you retard the timing just a touch to insure safety and no detonation. But the car will run just like stock....

I'd also add a fuel pump to the list no matter which choice you actually make, it's offers an extra safety blanket. Especially if you're 240 is an S13, their pump is weaker then the S14.

Hope that helps some. If you need a better explanation of how these things work just ask. Welcome to KAT and happy boosting

WD

[OM3GA]

Makes sense, Im just tryin to figure out whether i really want to turbo... my original plan was to use super strong lightweight internals i was going to do the head with all BC racing stuff, BC stage 2 cams, dual valve springs, titanium retainers,port and polish, and for the block i was going to do either Calico coated bearings or ACL race bearings(dont know which are better?!?!) and i was going to do the AMS sportsman rods or the Eagle H beam rods, And for pistons i was going to do either 10:1 compression or 10.5:1 and just balance and micropolish the crank.. I would obviously also use all arp hardware.. Might be a sweet setup, And btw i already have a fidanza 11 lb flywheel an unorthodox crank pulley, DSS 11lb driveshaft so ive bee lightening up alot of stuff.. In my opinion the motor has enough power right now but its got 200k miles on it and im worried about how long it will last.. and if i rebuild im lightening the internals as well.. What do you think i should do?! haha i guess id need a tune either way though for sure.

[kouki_hmongster]

ACL bearings are good but i think calico is better since it has special coating. Also for boost you wouldnt want 10:1 compression for piston. for turbo cars you would be good w/ something like arias piston 8:8.1 compression for high boost. which ever brand should be fine just make sure its around that compression.

BTW whats your budget? and power goal? i cant really guide you through without knowing.

[OM3GA]

Hmm you live in CA as well huh kouki we should meet up and talk.. Anyways no i know i wouldnt want 10:1 compression for boost haha instant knock no that was me talking about my original plan of going NA with a slight high compression piston.. if i were to do boost i would most likely do 8.8:1 or 9:1 something around there.. My budget im not sure i know im going to spend around $2200 in parts and i also have to have some one build it all.. and however much a tune is and power? im just looking for the most reliable ka-t setup maybe 250hp id sacrafice power for reliability any day...

[kouki_hmongster]

where are you in CA? $2200 is that for the turbo set-up or motor build? i know a guy in san diego who built jason(emance) motor now pushing 550+whp, my bro's motor is also getting done by the same guy. the shop is located in Ramona(sandeigo) and this guy builds hot rods..

If you want it to be reliable then just make sure you dont cut any corners and do it right.

[OM3GA]

for the motor build i guess, I mean i added up all the parts i want and it was totalling that.. idk who to have assemble it or how much it would cost.. I'm thinking about just goin with an NA setup with lightweight internals and crank pulley and flywheel and stuff.. IDK tho

[kouki_hmongster]

If you're going to get better crank than it might cost over $3000++, i'm talking about all parts for block to get it balanced, bore, hone..etc.. and minor head work. add $500 for port and polish head.