To clear up confusion about KA-T. DEFINITIVE answers needed.

[PantherRacer]

Ok, so let's get this info crystal clear. I have been searching through threads for days, and all the information is SO different that I need to get everything in order once and for all. The FAQ confused me the most since there are still so many different opinions.

Fuel combo's for low boost(7-8psi):Running the stock 270's, an FMU is about what you need.Also, running the stockers, you can get away with a 255lph pump and no fmu.If you run 370's you do not need an FMU, but it is recommended some sort of engine management be run.

So, running stockers, you do not need both an FMU and fuel pump (even though that would be safest) correct?

with SR injectors(it seems that ~89 Z32 injectors are the same), can you just install them without say, an SAFC or similar? can an FMU be put in place of that?-----------------------------------------------------------I'm planning on going with SR injectors and a 255lph pump. some sort of fuel management will be better than throwing on an FMU with those? But if funds disappear after I get my I/C, piping, and oil lines, I will get an FMU.

if 10:1 & 8:1 are the same price, it'd be smarter to get the 10:1 right? or would that strain the pump too much?

[eazye2000]

I would definitely replace the fuel pump with a Walbro HP pump. Just for insurance purposes. You never know when the stocker is going to crap out on you.And if you want low boost, just get the FMU. The FMU, along with the Walbro will yield pretty good results. If you want to spend a bit more money, get an SAFC, and some SR injectors and ditch the FMU. SAFC, SR injectors, and the Walbro are pretty proven as well.Not sure about timing. Just retard the distributor a little bit. You should be fine. Just run 93+ octane. Or get an MSD BTM. But that's more money.

The reason I said SR injectors, is because they plug right in. I'm not sure about the Z32 ones you mentioned. The pigtails should plug right in.

Just think of it this way. Get the things you need to do it right. I don't want to read about another blown up KA. You can also use the SR injectors for a little bit more power in the future. AND, you can also turn them in as cores to Deatschwerks and get 100 bux back for them when you want to upgrade.The SAFC can be reused to fine tune a tuned ECU.And the Walbro will just continue to kick azz no matter what happens up front.

Just some $.02 Sorry for the book.

[480sx]

If you run the SR 370's you HAVE to have some sort of fuel management. SAFC 2 is the most common, and cheapest.

If you run the stock 270's you can do so with a 8:1 FMU that you can pick up on ebay for cheap. You dont need a 10:1, you would be running rich. Stick with what works.

If your going turbo you really should replace your fuel pump with the 255 unit.

Man, honestly, you shouldnt do anything till you have the cash to do it right. Dont cheap out on your fuel system or you will blow your motor, and it will cost you a LOT more than doing it right the first time.

[neverlift]

an fmu and wabro are fine for about 8psi so is a walbro and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. A guy on the local forum runs an fmu(IIRC 8psi) and walbro, I run a walbro and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator wiht a tuned ecu. I have however blown a motor, it was not due to fuel at all, I dont run an ait sensor, and one day decided to reline a motor with 10psi in it while cold from a 33ish degree night so it blew. I have 'safely ran the motor to 10psi daily on just the tune afpr and walbro.(well a 300zx filter but w/ever) If I get the clutch issue resolved soon I'll be back at 10psi daily(after I finish my motor break in) doing 7 already.

I think its a little safer on t25 turbo's due to they move less air than a t3 or t3/4. Do you have a wideband? thats the only way to be safe, cause what has worked for slim,him,and them MIGHT not work for you.

I look at it this way, if the fmu can increase fuel pressure 8 psi per psi of boost, at 8 psi your making the injectors hold 107.5psi. IF the pump can handle it. And people talk jit about me running 70psi base pressure Thats the reason this method is kinda downed in the community, effective but kinda pushes limits.

also with a t3/4 turbo you might want to pull a * or so at the dizzy , 8from a t25 is little air when compared to a t3 flange...

[PantherRacer]

like I said, I'm definitely going to do the 255 lph pump and fmu on the stockers if I run out of cash after piping.

I'm not just throwing stuff on right now, I'm getting all the basic parts before I add the kit to the car. This has a dual purpose. 1. I get my boost2. I get experience and knowledge for when I eventually start my shop (since UTi's performance program doesn't go this in depth.)
Modified by PantherRacer at 1:09 PM 2/4/2008

[Charlie240sxt]

Ditch the FMU get the safc and sr 370cc maybe a wideband or get to a dyno after you get it running. The ka needs a good fuel system or you'll 80% of the time have problems. knock 2-4 deg at the dist. run a waste gate set to 8psi and you'll have a good setup that wont leave you on the side of the road.

I think the 255 is a must for a FI 240sx

[Florida240sx]

panther... just contact me. What parts do you hae yet if any? and what is you total budget? Get a SAFC and I have a wideband to tune it.Must is walboro pump.

[Florida240sx]

When I was running 5.8psi on stock injectors with fuel pump I was starting to get lean. So you need more fuel. This was on a t3/t4

[PantherRacer]

sent you an email Justin.

Per you fine gentlemen's instructions I have ditched my plans for an FMU and picked up an SAFC.
Modified by PantherRacer at 6:34 PM 2/3/2008

[GTR PrYdE]

No one mentioned EMANCE!

For 125, you can have a good rom tune that will cover timing and fuel.

I've heard only good reviews about emance.

[WDRacing]

Here are the facts. This does not involve opinion, nor what someones buddy once did on his yada yada. Read this slowly and twice if it's confusing. This isn't brain surgery here, it's very basic theory. The turbo's job is to force more air into the cylinder then would normally be possible. Hence the term forced induction. The only reason that one wants to force more air into the motor is so they can add additional fuel to make a bigger bang. More bang = more power.

With that understanding and with the goal being no more then 8psi you don't need to retard the timing as long as you run 91 or better octane fuel. This also assumes you never get a boost spike. But thats a risk you take when using a budget. I suggest a 2 degree retard of the base timing, done via distributor.

On to what is the BARE minimum for fuel. Now when I say bare minimum, I want to again stress that this is what I feel to be the min required. There have been others to run boost using less reliable and poorly thought out methods. I don't suggest you follow those...

The 8:1 FMU is an IDEAL way to run boost on a budget. It provides all the additional fuel you'll need and requires no tuning. On the S13 the fuel pump is weaker then what I would consider reliable, so use the 255. On the S14 you are good to go with the stock pump.

If you run ANY injector that is larger then stock, you will need some method of reducing the output of that injector while not under boost. These methods are as follows, SAFC or similar piggy back controller, pre-tuned ECU such as JWT, Enthalpy or Emance and the most expensive is the standalone ecu.

Hope this clears up the "confusion".

WD

[Florida240sx]

We have 93 octane here. I got my NGK wideband to tune him. Panther try helping a lawn service out and get some extra $$ Wash some cars. clean gutters lol

[PantherRacer]

Thanks WD. So what size/rating is the S14 fuel pump? I am going to search, but just in case I don't find it I know I can come back and see.

So I have the SAFC, I'm either going with SR, or DSM injectors, RB injectors if they will fit in the rail.(do they?)I know with DSM injectors I need a resistor block correct?

[480sx]

Check out the injector spreadsheet in the FAQ for all of your injector swapping ideas/questions. Best bang for the buck has to be the 370's. You can turn around and sell them instantly, either to an individual or to Dwerks.

[Florida240sx]

Get some sr injectors. and I got my wideband so I can tune ya.

[neverlift]

not sure how my methods are less reliable or less thought out, WD I mean really if your fmu adds 64 psi of fuel pressure how is that better than only adding 30psi? please explain to me, because 100psi is a **** ton of stress. In comparison. I mean if thats the case to just toss more fuel pressure on it, I could IN THEORY turn my stock 270cc injectors into mamoth 409cc killers .... already proven they will handle steady 70psi with ten psi on top of that from boost, 7k miles and the motor blew due to no ait sensor,10psi,cold,redline. NOT fueling issues. That isnt reliable IDK what is from a 300 dollar turbo setup.

[WDRacing]

not sure how my methods are less reliable or less thought out, WD I mean really if your fmu adds 64 psi of fuel pressure how is that better than only adding 30psi? please explain to me, because 100psi is a **** ton of stress. In comparison. I mean if thats the case to just toss more fuel pressure on it, I could IN THEORY turn my stock 270cc injectors into mamoth 409cc killers .... already proven they will handle steady 70psi with ten psi on top of that from boost, 7k miles and the motor blew due to no ait sensor,10psi,cold,redline. NOT fueling issues. That isnt reliable IDK what is from a 300 dollar turbo setup.

I wasn't singling you out at all man. Believe me, you'd know if I was. I would have changed your title to water head or something...lol.

I was simply referring to the fact that the methods I have suggested have literally been used 1000's of times. Turbonetics used to include the FMU with there kit back in the day. So have many other well know distributors and DIY guys over the last 10 years.

70PSI of constant static pressure isn't something I would recommend, not that I haven't also done this. But what you and I do ourselves is far different from something I'll tell a lamen to do.

The FMU works well, simply can't argue with that. It's $110 to call your low boost fuel needs done...hard to argue.

But in the end, "220...221...whatever it takes"

[neverlift]

really I meant people in the same boat trying to solve a fuel issue cheaply...

I'm with ya 100% on the fmu thing everyone on the local forum told this guy not to use an fmu or he would blow his motor, well he is still rolling good. lol about the same response I got from them when I stated my fueling plan. LOLAnd you hit my only concern right on the head, the constant pressure....

Also to panther; dotn even attempt the high fuel pressure thing unless you can rom tune...

[Brandon93240]

70 to 80 psi isn't enough to make the better designed fuel injectors go static. Some of the newer nrl fuel systems run 80-100 psi on the same injectors return lined systems had in the past. FMU do work great just don't abuse it by running to much boost. A good friend of mine spent a fortune building his kit for his s13 to skimp by putting a z32 pump with probably a million miles on it in his car, the built engine lasted about 2 weeks because he was running the **** out of it on a junkyard pump. If you have to wait a little longer to save the money to do it right its better than it potentially costing you more for skimping. IE 100$ dollar fuel pump vs new engine.

[PantherRacer]

What high fuel pressure thing?I can rom tune a satellite card, and a cell phone...lol I'm sure I can pick up on it for a car.
Modified by PantherRacer at 2:47 PM 2/5/2008

[neverlift]

the high fuel pressure on stock injectors to increase flow. mine make around 330cc nand are in fact stock 270cc injectors.. my bad I assumed as most dont do romtunes themselves...and getting the k is a pita so sending off to shelf tuners is out. Get a daughter board and some chips with a willem or a romulator and tune that thing lol. Then your ready to update any upgrades you make in the future. but the fmu is still cheaper

[PantherRacer]

I got an SAFC already so I'm gonna get SR injectors and Florida240SX said he will tune it.So far, I have the intercooler(Getting a Trust core ), piping, clutch, plugs, downpipe, and oil lines to get. Am I forgetting anything?

[PantherRacer]

The how to build a manual boost controller article dissapeared. just to let you all know.

[PantherRacer]

We have 93 octane here. I got my NGK wideband to tune him. Panther try helping a lawn service out and get some extra $$ Wash some cars. clean gutters lol

LOL, how did I miss this out? Yeah, I'm going to try those, also goign to try some food stores and see if they need someone to stock shelves or unload shipments.

I'm going to make sure I get all my parts together and have everything set before I put anything on the car.about now I only need my SR injectors, oil lines,downpipe, and I think I should go with a new clutch to be safe lol.Oh, and my spark plugs lol. Maybe I'm not as far as I thought

[RCG_Savage]

So when you turbo the 240 you would either use a 8:1 FMU OR a SAFC with sr injectors and just keep the stock FMU correct?

[WDRacing]

The stock FMU is actually just a fuel pressure regulator. But yes, with the Vortec FMU or SAFC you need to retain the stock FPR.

The FMU and SAFC are only two of the many options to choose from. They are however, the cheapest and most common.

*Note*

When using the SAFC method, you need to include larger injectors into your budget.

WD

[PantherRacer]

I would just like to thank everyone who helped to make this thread turn out how I planned. It definitely helped me and I'm sure it will help others who need specific answers laid out in front of them so they can make those important decisions. Because it sucks when you have limited funds and you make the wrong choice.WD is the Best KA-T mod everrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

[PantherRacer]

I have 695 in the kit so far things add up QUICK....TurboManiWastegateBOVSAFCTrust IntercoolerI/C pipingOil lines + fittingsGaskets.

Damn. and I still have more to go. oh well. this is my hobby/addiction.

[Jookmasta]

my suggestion to you panther is to get larger injectors. my reasoning is two fold. number one, if your going the safc route for now, why not use it to it's full capacity? hunt down some 480cc injectors or even some 550s. personally i would go with 480cc ones as that is what i use. the safc will be able to tune them. second reason for going with larger injectors is the fact that this will give you a bit more room to run some more boost when you end up wanting 10 psi instead of 8 psi. not that we want to make all the hp in the world, but 10 psi will make you giddy after driving at 8 psi for however long.

the other suggestions that were made are spot on. in the end you will need to spend the money so that you don't keep upgrading or replacing things due them not working for your setup. consider yourself blessed that you have access to a wideband for free as honestly that would've been my first suggestion before you bought anything for your project.

keep us posted on your progress and good luck.

[eazye2000]

WD is the Best KA-T mod everrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr