more rb20det questions

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
frosted flakes
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Some more RB20DET questions

1) How many cc's are the stock injectors?2) How many HP can the stock injectors handle?3) I have a Walbro 255 lp/h fuel pump. How many HP is this good up to?4) What is the SAFE limit of boost with the stock r32 intercooler?5) At that level of safe boost what kind of HP am I expecting to the flywheel? wheels?

THANKS

Tony


Yellow4g63
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1. 270cc

tyler03
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for your questions 3-5, ive done alot of forum searching and asking r32 owners what kinda numbers there putting out, there all really diffrent i dont understand it. Ive heard of bpu rb20s being anywhere from 195whp-260whp with a little extra boost.Seems like there is alot of factory freaks and factory turds out there. Luck of the draw?

AREITU
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On #3, do you have the high or low pressure one?

It should be good for at least 400hp.

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Wulfgang
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Frosted flakes, you just got your swap finished last week, right? Get that LSD first!

Shane

frosted flakes
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Yeah i guess i do need that before i start turning up the boost!

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BoostFab
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frosted flakes wrote:Yeah i guess i do need that before i start turning up the boost!


did you get your A/C running with the rb20 swap?

AREITU
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BoostsFed wrote:did you get your A/C running with the rb20 swap?


To my knowledge, nobody has AC and RB.

But I was thinking, if you lay both harnesses on top of each other, what stops you from plugging the RB interior harness to the climate control (and the climate control to some sensors) while using the origional HVAC controls to toggle where the air goes?

frosted flakes
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nope dont got it a/c hooked up...looks complicated but my dad is convinced he can hook it up!

JeffTN
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Sounds like something my dad would say too.

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wga240
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Rofl my dad said the exact same thing...and still no A/C after many months with the swap finished ;)

IvoryJ30t
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if someone gives me a wiring diagram of the rb your using, and your car, ill tell you how to hook the ac up.

AREITU
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IvoryJ30t wrote:if someone gives me a wiring diagram of the rb your using, and your car, ill tell you how to hook the ac up.


I have the R33 RB25DET and RB26DETT pinout diagram translated from Japanese. The RB20 diagram is supposed to basically be identical. But I was thinking, since USDM S13s had manual AC, can't you just hook up the Skyline climate control unit, slap some temp probes someplace and use it to kick the AC on and off while using the origional S13 HVAC controls to redirect the air around?

And if it's "Easy" why hasn't anyone done it or offered it?

IvoryJ30t
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cant say for others, but electrical is my specialty.

if you have the diagrams in .pdf or the like, and the diagram of your cars electrical system, ill work it out. its not hard, i just find that alot of people are afraid of wires, or dont understand electricity.

IvoryJ30t
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normally, the only thing the ECU dictates is if it is ok for the ac compressor to engage. different cars are wired differently, and i dont know how 240's are wired.

if someone wants to send me a diagram of the 240's electrical system, ill tell you how it has to be wired up.

IvoryJ30t
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ok, if the rb25's ecu is like the rb26, the only thing the ecu has to do with anything is to adjust the idle when the ac is running. the ac only interacts with the ecu on two wires. that circuit runs from power, to a fuse, to the dual pressure switch [safety], to the ecu, then to the HVAC control.

the only thing that might complicate matters is what harness the ac clutch wires are located in.

if you guys want to do this, we'll get it going.

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WDRacing
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As a completely stock setup aside from the fuel pump, you should be able to run 10 psi on 93 octane. If the IC becomes heat soaked during drag races or extended boost periods you need to becareful. I ran 14lbs all day in my Skyline, but I always used 104 octane gas. You also need to be certain your timing is not advanced at all either. Unless your using some kind of knock monitor.

I personally don't suggest raising boost pressure unless you have a wide band, or a knock meter, like the MSD. It saved me multiple times.

WD

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HybridOne
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i run boost at 12psi all day. I think 14 is the limit of the Turbo. And i wouldn't run over 14 with the intercooler either. I WISH i had my HP numbers. I was having my car dynoed and the guy running the machine kept shutting my car down at 4000rpm because he said i was running WAY to lean and he didn't want to blow it up. I was at 13:1. Isn't normal 14.7:1 and anything above 14.7 lean. I think this guy was an idiot. Anyway...i had 175hp to the wheels at 4000rpm, and the graph was moving up and up. I wasn't even really in my powerband. annoying.

Yellow4g63
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HybridOne wrote:i run boost at 12psi all day. I think 14 is the limit of the Turbo. And i wouldn't run over 14 with the intercooler either. I WISH i had my HP numbers. I was having my car dynoed and the guy running the machine kept shutting my car down at 4000rpm because he said i was running WAY to lean and he didn't want to blow it up. I was at 13:1. Isn't normal 14.7:1 and anything above 14.7 lean. I think this guy was an idiot. Anyway...i had 175hp to the wheels at 4000rpm, and the graph was moving up and up. I wasn't even really in my powerband. annoying.


13:1 is pretty lean for turbo. Leanest I would go would be 12.5. So you made peak power at 4k rpm what size exhaust did you have and was this with the cat or no cat?

tyler03
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yea that blows, you had 4000 rpms left!

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rbsileighty
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Yellow4g63 wrote:13:1 is pretty lean for turbo. Leanest I would go would be 12.5. So you made peak power at 4k rpm what size exhaust did you have and was this with the cat or no cat?


Sorry bud, wrong way. Less than 14.7 is rich. Here is a link with some good info: http://www.forparts.com/BoswidebandO2.htm

Granted you need a margin of safety for spikes and such, but near 14 should be fine. His dyno showed he was around 13 then dipped to almost 11 and came back down to 12-13 (correct me if I'm wrong Hybrid). Looks like he was pulling ok, but need some fuel tuning from someone who knows what they are looking at.

Even with a margin of safety of 4% he would be fine at 14.1-15.2 air/fuel. I wouldn't toy with to high much higher than stoich, but this range gives you an idea.

Joe
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AREITU wrote:To my knowledge, nobody has AC and RB.

But I was thinking, if you lay both harnesses on top of each other, what stops you from plugging the RB interior harness to the climate control (and the climate control to some sensors) while using the origional HVAC controls to toggle where the air goes?


there was that s14 in florida on ebay a couple months back that has working AC

and all you need to do is wire in the AC and use your stock ECU to control it.

IvoryJ30t
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not even, the rb's ecu will work fine.

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HybridOne
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i didn't peak at 4K, thats when we shut the car down...so i didn't even get past 4K. It would have been alot higher had i been able to take the car al the way to redline.

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Wulfgang
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To repeat what I mentioned in another thread...

The RB ECU should work fine with your A/C. Send your thermo control amp signal to the RB ECU pin 46. Then send the signal from the ECU pin 9 to your car's A/C relay and dual/triple pressure switch. If your car has an FICD (and RB20's do not) then you will also need to connect that to your car's A/C relay.

Are there are no RB's with A/C because the wiring is too difficult or just because everyone decided to remove their A/C compressors/hoses when they did the swap?

Does anyone on this forum have a connected and charged A/C compressor on their RB engine that does not run because the wiring was too difficult???

Shane

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rbsileighty
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Wulfgang wrote:To repeat what I mentioned in another thread...

The RB ECU should work fine with your A/C. Send your thermo control amp signal to the RB ECU pin 46. Then send the signal from the ECU pin 9 to your car's A/C relay and dual/triple pressure switch. If your car has an FICD (and RB20's do not) then you will also need to connect that to your car's A/C relay.

Are there are no RB's with A/C because the wiring is too difficult or just because everyone decided to remove their A/C compressors/hoses when they did the swap?

Does anyone on this forum have a connected and charged A/C compressor on their RB engine that does not run because the wiring was too difficult???

Shane


I don't/won't run a/c due to cooling. I live in a hot climate, so the cond. from the a/c unit takes away from the air flow. Not to mention the weight reduction factor.

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wga240
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My A/C was never hooked up because of cooling, all the extra crap that just took up too much space in the engine bay, and I didn't want to have to get some lines fabricated to hook everything up. Like you've said the wiring probably wouldn't be hard at all.

Edit: Heck, on that note I don't even have any air in my car. I took the blower motor out and the AC evaporator (I think that's what this big thing was). I would have taken the heater core out but I don't want to take my dash apart. However, it's starting to leak coolant a tiny bit on very cold days for some reason so it may come out after all.

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rbsileighty
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I wouldn't get rid of the blower and heater because of it's aid in cooling if you are running to hot, and it can clear the window when they get fogged up to boot.

IvoryJ30t
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i forgot about that, you guys arent using the ac to save weight, or aid cooling.

im not trying to save weight, so my ac is definetly getting hooked up.

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HybridOne
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it would be completely possible. The wires are in the engine harness, and then the wires that they need to be hooked to are in the dash harness somewhere. Well on an S14 anyway, the S13 they would be in one of those plugs in the engine bay. I remember finding the AC control wires on one of the 2 big plugs on the RB harness.....the one that we cut off.


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