more rb20det questions

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
IvoryJ30t
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um hummn. yup, there should be one wire for the ac clutch, two wires for the pressure switch, and two wires for the saftey [dual pressure] switch. its only five wires that need to be conected to the interior harness.


AREITU
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rbsileighty wrote:I don't/won't run a/c due to cooling. I live in a hot climate, so the cond. from the a/c unit takes away from the air flow. Not to mention the weight reduction factor.


I live in a hot climate too. I used to have to ride around with my friend in his AC-less Civic Hatchback (B18C, red, for sale if anybody wants it) and it was literally, hell. Especially when it's so hot outside, getting wind in your face is hotter than standing still. So that's kinda why I want AC...'sides, just keep the electric fans buzzing the while time.

By the way, what are the pressure and pressure saftey switch for, and what's an FCID?

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wga240
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rbsileighty wrote:I wouldn't get rid of the blower and heater because of it's aid in cooling if you are running to hot, and it can clear the window when they get fogged up to boot.


Well as for cooling I have an electric fan that so far is doing a more than adequate job. If I ever do start overheating then I'll just have to pull over and let it sit instead of turning the heat on.

As for defrost/foggy windows this isn't my daily driver ;) So I can pick and choose when I want to drive it. My daily driver was a Honda Prelude but I'm gonna sell it and stick with the 240s. I just got a 92 convertible the other day that I'm going to fix up a bit and use it as my beater. Let's see...that makes a total of 7 240s now we have. You'd think I'd start selling them or something :D

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WDRacing
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Was this thread about AC??? I don't think so, quite thread jacking, this is the main reason people don't use the damn search function.

WD

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WDRacing
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rbsileighty wrote:Sorry bud, wrong way. Less than 14.7 is rich. Here is a link with some good info: http://www.forparts.com/BoswidebandO2.htm

Granted you need a margin of safety for spikes and such, but near 14 should be fine. His dyno showed he was around 13 then dipped to almost 11 and came back down to 12-13 (correct me if I'm wrong Hybrid). Looks like he was pulling ok, but need some fuel tuning from someone who knows what they are looking at.

Even with a margin of safety of 4% he would be fine at 14.1-15.2 air/fuel. I wouldn't toy with to high much higher than stoich, but this range gives you an idea.


Dude, that is completely wrong...14.7 is at idle only without a load applied to the engine. Under a load and boost you don't want to get leaner then 12.5/1, I've run 12.7 and made alot of power. The leaner you get under a load the quicker you'll detonate and blow your motor. This being an RB forum and all, its a safe bet that most member won't have a spare sitting in the garage.

WD

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HybridOne
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deep breaths

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WDRacing
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GOOOSEFABAH

Yellow4g63
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WDRacing wrote:Dude, that is completely wrong...14.7 is at idle only without a load applied to the engine. Under a load and boost you don't want to get leaner then 12.5/1, I've run 12.7 and made alot of power. The leaner you get under a load the quicker you'll detonate and blow your motor. This being an RB forum and all, its a safe bet that most member won't have a spare sitting in the garage.

WD


Thanks WDracing. Run your RB at 14.7 and tell me how long it lives lol. 14.7 is ok for N/A's I think.

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rbsileighty
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WDRacing wrote:GOOOSEFABAH


good movie...

Yeah man, I guess I wasn't thinking when I was looking at this issue.

Found this:"Bosch state that most spark ignition engines develop their maximum power at air/fuel ratios of 12.5:1 - 14:1, maximum fuel economy at 16.2:1 - 17.6:1, and good load transitions from about 11:1 - 12.5:1. However, in practical applications, engine air/fuel ratios at maximum power are often richer than the quoted 12.5:1, especially in forced induction engines where the excess fuel is used to cool combustion and so prevent detonation." - AutoSpeed

Where I got confused was when people are saying that running lower than 14.7 is lean. What you are saying is that you need to be running in a rich condition to stay away from detonation. It was a small miscommunication. I was wrong in what I said, but regardless Hybrid's pull did not go above 13 (with his mods he shouldn't be maxing out his injectors, which when he maxed out the settings on the SAFC nothing changed), so it seemed to be a safe pull. I just needed clarification as to what you ment by lean. I was not trying to be a jerk, and hopefully you understand where I was coming from.

I guess you got hostile when you read "Sorry bud, wrong way. Less than 14.7 is rich." wrong. All I was saying is that <14.7 is rich and >14.7 is lean going by the stoich curve. Granted, I was wrong being under the impression that anything under stoich was safe under load or not. Thanks for the input, and I didn't mean to upset you.

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rbsileighty
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Ok, after reading through this thread again (without the AC issue), I can see where I was so wrong. Oh well, it does happen.I happened to miss the "lean for turbos" part of Yellow's post. My apologies for correcting you with wrong information where you were right.

Hopefully you can see how statements like this one from the article I attached are misleading, "When lambda equals one, you have a 14.7:1 stoichiometric air/fuel ratio and ideal combustion. When the air/fuel ratio is greater than 14.7:1, lambda also will be greater than one and the engine will have a lean mixture." So now I know this is the case at idle, and not under load. Thanks again for the insite.

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WDRacing
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Wasn't jumping on you bro, just correcting you. I'm in the middle of moving back stateside so....my little voices inside my head are all yelling at me.

WD


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