MB229.1 and 229.3 Oil specs

[lagvoid]

Palmerwmd: do you run an sr or a ka? You seem to have a lot of experience with different oils and your climate is similar to mine (Virginia). If your running an sr than I would want to choose an oil that you recommend. If not, what kind of oil should be used for an sr engine in moderate weather ranging from 70-90+ summers and occasional freezing winters?

[AZhitman]

Fred runs a VH45DE.

His advice to Kaoishin applies to your car as well.

[gyfer]

I think the same oil apply to all car. At least all import cars

[lagvoid]

That works, just wanted to make sure. I didnt know if the sr might be a special case with the turbo making things hotter...thanks

[PalmerWMD]

The turbo moves the center mass of recommendations a bit to thicker viscosities, ( even though there is a modern school of thought that disagrees, but I go by old school: slightly modified by modern chemistry but uninfluenced by CAFE).

So like AZ said, the MOBIL1 0w-40 , Valvoline SYnp 5w-40 are medium oils by tradittional standards and will work well in a turbo (assuming no extended drain).But with a turbo you might also consider running 15w-50 or 20w-50 .Preferably from the same brands listed in that link in the beginning of this thread.Be sure it meets SL (unless AMSOIL or redline).

Not all of those oils can be easily found everywhwere.How many miles on your SR?How hard do you drive? Mostly commuting or lots of street racing?

Fred...

[lagvoid]

I will check and see if the mobil1 0w-40 is available. If its not easily found, I plan on trying 15w-50 and see how that runs. I actually don't even have my sr yet, just wanted to get things worked out down to the oil I will be running. Well with my current car I drive daily. 2-4 20-30min drives each day with WOT a few times each trip. When I get my 240 back that will be driven daily. I'll update when I check around for the oil.Thanks

[TurboKA37]

for people that are looking for mobil1 0W-40, i have been able to find it regularly at my local walmart.

[Cold_Zero]

At our local Walmart stores you can buy it in single quarts for $4.74 (which is higher than what I have seen M1 for). I try to find the deals and then stock up.

[nissandet240]

just remember to do oil change every couple of moths. I have mine done every two moths.

[kblast523]

[B/][/QUOTE]Any information on Mobil Delvac 1 (US, not Euro)? I heard is 'God of all oil' due to its superior cleaning agent, and velocity after long period of oxidation. [/QUOTE] I began running Delvac 1 in a 1990 Mazda Protege I acquired two years ago that had undergone "teen neglect" and had top end issues (1.8l DOHC Ford engine). In just 1000 miles, Delvac cleaned that puppy up, loosened the rings and now using 10W40 she's quiet as nearly new. Cleaning? OH YEAH....in the Infiniti...Valvoline Synpower 5W30.

[kblast523]

just remember to do oil change every couple of moths. I have mine done every two moths.

At least every 3000 miles, no more. I got 145k out of a 1967 Ford using Pennzoil 10W40 and changing every 2000 miles (once a week) and the engine WAS LOOSE. But it was clean...and that was when oils left behind lots of stuff...(1969-1972). PS, I learned about Pennz, and the 'other' oils while in the military, and particularly after haveing a fleet vehicle and being able to compare oils among similar cars. I switched to Valvoline synthetic mortor oil when the car didn't count (1989 Dodge Spirit 2.5l) and now run it in all the vehicles.

[kblast523]

for people that are looking for mobil1 0W-40, i have been able to find it regularly at my local walmart.

Also available at NAPA, AutoZone, and OReilleys here in the great Frozen Tundra...

[sil80drifter]

SO do I get tihs right, if I needed to clean the engine, I COULD use Delvac 1 for one oil change, and then go back my Castrol GTX 10W-30? Or would I have to keep using synthetic from then on

(I'm not sure if Delvac is Synthetic, also if someone could briefly go into why it's not a good idea to use normal oil after having used synth, I keep forgetting the reason).

sil80

[kblast523]

Delvac works great to take out burned up oil residue. Castrol GTX is not synthetic, and if you have "deposits" it might be time to change...brands. I primarily use Delvac to clean up the valvetrain, lifters and such. Synthetic oils are to maintain clean in the engine...

[AP Autosport]

Nothing has been said about the Royal Purple products, I just bought a case of 10w-40 and it seems to be running fine. If there any reason why I shouldn't be using this in my sr20det let me know!

[PalmerWMD]

AP:

I dont know a whole lot about RP.

Do they mention on the bottle ACEA specs?If so, in a 10w-40 adevrtised as a synthetic it should be able to meet ACEA A3 and say so on the bottle.

For summer application in an SR20DET, I feel a 40 weight might be a bit on the thin side.

I run Mobil1 15w-50 right now and a lot of other folks do too.A 40 weight I migth consider as a winter fill , remember these are turbo engine in a USA summer (Japan summers much milder).

The only 40 weight I can think of, off the top of my head that I would consider running in summer in an SR is Redline which makes <very> robust 40 weights in 5w-40 and 10w-40.Even VII free in the case of the 10w-40.

While I dont know the base lube stock that RP uses I would be very surprised if it uses anything more than Group III (like most syns on the market).(And I think there is some supicion it might be a group II+ very good to be sure, but really a stock, you can find in much cheaper oils as well)In a turbo engine in summer I would prefer a group IV base stock like Mobil 1 or AMSOIL, or better yet a group V like Redline.

Since Redline is less available to me, as well as spendy, I go with Mobil1 15w-50 and many folks I know run this in turbo negines as well, with results that are improved over thinner oils.

Fred...

[Mr1der]

hey Fred, did ya see my stunning detective work on discovering Nissan OEM filters are actually made by WIX?

might save ya a few bones if you wanna try them out.

[PalmerWMD]

I saw that good job..

I just wish I could find Wix anywhere here.

Fred..

[Nismo_Freak]

I saw that good job..

I just wish I could find Wix anywhere here.

Fred..

Fred,

Lemme know and I'll mail you a bunch of the filters, I can get them at O'Reilly's here.

All this talk of chemistry has me wanting to tear into my organic chem books again lol.

I have always had good luck with the Amsoil 20w50 oil, however it does require a good warm-up procedure. Which I use on my SR.

http://www.amsoil.com/products/tro.html

- Alan

[PalmerWMD]

I wound up using NAPA gold crossover to 15208-53J00.

Fred...

[Mr1der]

napa gold is a WIX

it should say it on the box, they used to anyway...

most of the high end store brand like that are.

I've got one on my car now.

my uncle informed me that Motorcraft are actually pretty crappy.

[PalmerWMD]

An update:http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html

Fred..

[bulgartkd]

Hi Guys/Girls,I'm not sure why everyone is so hung over synthetic oil! Of course, if you plan to drive 5K-10K without any oil changes, fine, but otherwise it is a waste of money in my opinion. If you are running any turbocharged engine for more than 2K miles, you are asking for trouble. That said, most of us here in South Florida (SRs, 1/2JZs, RX-7s) are running on Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W50. Keep in mind that most people that have turbo cars, run them hard, so that oil is one of the best for protection for short and hard periods of time. Anything pass 1,500-2,000 and the oil looses its protective ability, but anyway that is the time for an oil change anyhow. Synthetic is fine for high performance cars that come stock from the factory. Also, its too thin in my opinion for older engines.......Well enough of me, just giving my two cents.

[kblast523]

[quote=" bulgartkd [ If you are running any turbocharged engine for more than 2K miles, you are asking for trouble... Anything pass 1,500-2,000 and the oil looses its protective ability... Synthetic is fine for high performance cars that come stock from the factory. Also, its too thin in my opinion for older engines....... [/quote] Ok, which is it.I have used synthetic in all sorts of engines since 1989. I have never had a problem, and never had to use 20w50 weight. I have run cars well in excess of the speed limit (crappy cars at that 1986-1989 Plymouth Reliants and 1988-1991-1994 Ford Taurus 3.0's) for LONG durations and always have gotten well over 100K miles service still performing like new (at least the engine was). Without synthetics, my co-workers like vehicles were blowing engines, and not getting the mileage I was. My Super never did understand how my 1991 Taurus averaged 2.8 mpg better than his, -identical equipment. Another co-worker didn't undertand why his MoPar 2.2 blew at 80k, and mine didn't. I even knocked the oil pan off mine, and (added enough oil) drove it to the shop! It only had a small hole in it, but they towed it from the servcie drive...Chemical analysis of synthetic lubricants will reveal a more uniform structure of the elements, that provide a "smoother" surface to shear and more area within the structure to hold contaminants (dirt) without affecting its lube properties. Have you ever poured motor oil in a pan on the stove and cooked it? That is where all that junk in your turbo bearings came from. NOT with synthetic...Vapor point of most synthetic is about 80-100 degrees centigrade HIGHER than dino oil.And add the additional 2. something mpg I get with a 3.0 in BOTH the 1990 Maxima and the 1999 I30, and it "pays for its self".(Lets see, that is 40 extra miles per tank, approximately 7 tanks per change-lets see....280 miles at 27 miles per-or a little over 10, yes TEN gallons of gas. Where I am that is $19.49. SAVED.Oh, yes-I forgot...I'd have paid about seven dollars for the crappy dino oil, so I have a BONUS for using Mobil 1, Valvoline SynPower, or even Pennz/Quaker synthetics even at five dollars a quart.I'll step off my soap box now...

[pito11213]

Well since reading these posts I have decided I will switch to valvoline.

I will let you guys know of the results

[Jesda]

1992 Q45, 188k. Mobil 1 5w40 from Wal-Mart, with a Mobil 1 filter from Autozone. $35 at wal-mart and they vaccuum the car and check all my fluids. Another $10 for the filter. 2900 mile routine.

-Jesda

[soflajdm]

bulgart, i was gonna say the same thing... 20-50 in south florida works great... personally, i use valvoline racing

[Kouks]

Originally posted by PalmerWMD

"While I dont know the base lube stock that RP uses I would be very surprised if it uses anything more than Group III (like most syns on the market).(And I think there is some supicion it might be a group II+ very good to be sure, but really a stock, you can find in much cheaper oils as well)In a turbo engine in summer I would prefer a group IV base stock like Mobil 1 or AMSOIL, or better yet a group V like Redline."

Royal Purple uses group 4 stock, man, since when did royal purple ever think of using group 2 or three stock. Royal Purple is definitely a higher end product than Mobil One, as current prices are around 6.40 per quart.

Redline charges something crazy like 7.50+ right? Dont get me wrong, i dont penny pinch on oil, but most people cant afford to spend that kinda dough every 3k miles. I can though!

DSport did a article on oils and (world renowned) cosworth said, the additive package is more important these days than most people realize. A group 2 oil with the right additives can be better than a group 4 stock, with not the right mix of additives.

I am loving this thread, and feel free to prove me wrong, you can even check out http://www.royalpurple.com/techi/whyrpi.html for more info.

Unlike most companies, RP only makes synthethic. Also, I believe Redline uses group four/five also. I remember something about offsetting the amount of esther, estherglycerin somehing blah blah blah (some big word and dont have the mag near me) from group 5 PAO oils, by incorporating group 4.

I worked at a speed shop for almost a year, and we were a distributor for RP. My boss who has a chemical engineering degree, chose them above all other brands for proven horsepower gains, additive packaging, as well as multiple tests showing their lubricating qualities.

edited again for more info.........
Modified by Kouks at 10:24 PM 7/5/2006

[Jesda]

I am loving this thread, and feel free to prove me wrong, you can even check out http://www.royalpurple.com for more info.

I worked at a speed shop for almost a year, and we were a distributor for RP. My boss who has a chemical engineering degree, chose them above all other brands for proven horsepower gains, additive packaging, as well as multiple tests showing their lubricating qualities.

Respectfully, being an RP distributor and sending us to RP's home page is a little weak.

[Kouks]

Changed link for better information.

Respectfully, just because I was a RP distributor, doesnt mean you are going to believe the words that I type. If I send you to a great page with tons of information, and tons of independent tests, that show improvements, doesnt that have more backing than someone you dont know. I dont want to make my words god, I let them do the talking for me.

I just think Rp wasnt getting the respect they so much have earned. edited: added more info on previous post.

20w-50 for my turbo Ca. Royal Purple FTW!
Modified by Kouks at 10:36 PM 7/5/2006