Max Boost on a T28 s14 sr20det

[jr_ss]

Tulsa to the rescue.... Thank you!

[shift_SRDETuser]

Tulsa to the rescue.... Thank you!

I do not have this boost solenoid thing that you are talking about-- so I guess that I will be spending 300 bucks plus for a controller which sucks -- I am bleeding money on this swap.....

here are some pictures of my engine



I have no idea what this solenoid is though

[Hijacker]

That second pic looks like the boost selenoid to me. Nissan probably updated the design for the second gen. All of Tulsa's pics are off the 1st gen equipment.

Also, since S14s didn't have an EAI setup, there'd only be the one selenoid on the ignitor mounting plate on the exhaust side.

Looking at the first picture, I can see that the vac hoses run from the selenoid to the wastegate, which makes it pretty definitive on what it is.

The wastegate should have a vac source coming from the cold pipe (stock setup obviously) that hits a 3-way vac T. One side is incoming from the cold pipe, one goes to the wastegate, and the other goes to the boost selenoid. The boost selenoid then has a second vac line that runs to the rubber intake hose.

[shift_SRDETuser]

That second pic looks like the boost selenoid to me. Nissan probably updated the design for the second gen. All of Tulsa's pics are off the 1st gen equipment.

Also, since S14s didn't have an EAI setup, there'd only be the one selenoid on the ignitor mounting plate on the exhaust side.

maybe -- the restrictor was were exactly -- I looked at the vac lines coming off and their was a thick vac line on top and a blue replacement vac line coming off the side. I wonder ? Did all the japan peps remove this vac limiter off their stock cars?

[ryan15]

+5 on 7psi stock, actually im at .45 BAR, so im sure that is around 7psi.

[Hijacker]

That blue line was probably for an aftermarket FMIC I bet. I honestly don't know where the stock restrictor is as I've never had the opportunity to mess with a front clip that hasn't been futzed with.

[shift_SRDETuser]

That blue line was probably for an aftermarket FMIC I bet. I honestly don't know where the stock restrictor is as I've never had the opportunity to mess with a front clip that hasn't been futzed with.

yes this one has been futzed with it has an hks intake on the charge side and some weird looking vac lines. maybe aftermarket boot controller or something

[Tulsa_S-13]

That blue line was probably for an aftermarket FMIC I bet. I honestly don't know where the stock restrictor is as I've never had the opportunity to mess with a front clip that hasn't been futzed with.

The line that contains the restrictor is the short vac. line that runs from the solenoid to the T junction.

Here is a pic with the restricted line removed:



Shift_SRDETuser, that solenoid you have in your hand in your second picture is the BOOST SOLENOID!



If you note, the first picture in this reply is taken from an S14 SR, the solenoid in your hand is the boost solenoid. You will need to mount it to your strut tower, run a short line from it to a 'T', one line of the 'T' will go to the wastegate, the other remaining line will go to the nipple on the air intake. The nipple on the air intake tube is for recirculation. If you look at the very first picture I posted in this thread you will see the nipple on the intake tube I am referring to.

Now, as far as wiring goes its fairly straight forward. You will need to find the plug on your engine harness that matches the connection of the solenoid. Extend this line [roughly 2.5'] so that it reaches to the mounting location of your boost solenoid. The first time you take your car out with this modification you need to make sure you are building boost properly. There is a chance to overboost, so be careful and make sure everything is connected properly and securely. You should then be hitting 10-11psi

[supreamS14]

The S15 gt28r bb turbo can safely boost to 18.5 psi! The s14 t28 jurnal bearing turbo is a little less! The S15 has inconel blade materials for extreme heat resistance! Its not how much boost you can push its how much HP your injectors and maf can handel! With stage 1 cams you could make more power with less boost. The same goes for any mods!

[shift_SRDETuser]

The line that contains the restrictor is the short vac. line that runs from the solenoid to the T junction.

Here is a pic with the restricted line removed:



Shift_SRDETuser, that solenoid you have in your hand in your second picture is the BOOST SOLENOID!



If you note, the first picture in this reply is taken from an S14 SR, the solenoid in your hand is the boost solenoid. You will need to mount it to your strut tower, run a short line from it to a 'T', one line of the 'T' will go to the wastegate, the other remaining line will go to the nipple on the air intake. The nipple on the air intake tube is for recirculation. If you look at the very first picture I posted in this thread you will see the nipple on the intake tube I am referring to.

Now, as far as wiring goes its fairly straight forward. You will need to find the plug on your engine harness that matches the connection of the solenoid. Extend this line [roughly 2.5'] so that it reaches to the mounting location of your boost solenoid. The first time you take your car out with this modification you need to make sure you are building boost properly. There is a chance to overboost, so be careful and make sure everything is connected properly and securely. You should then be hitting 10-11psi

Kewl I appreciate it. We took the vac lines off the solenoid and I saw no limiter, the vac hose was pretty thick coming off the top and the left hose was long with a black vac line that ran into a t connector that had a blue hose additionally connected to it.

Once you hook this up with no restrictor vac line will this thing run properly and not spike??

[jr_ss]

I do not have this boost solenoid thing that you are talking about-- so I guess that I will be spending 300 bucks plus for a controller which sucks -- I am bleeding money on this swap.....

here are some pictures of my engine



I have no idea what this solenoid is though

You don't have to spend $300 on a EBC, go buy an HKS wastegate and tighten the screw down(make the rod shorter) most women won't like this but... you'll make more boost. It's a cheap easy and reliable way to increase your boost. You can get it from http://www.frsport.com for $96 plus shipping. That's how I increased my boost to 11-12lbs.

[supreamS14]

I am just trying to figure out what kind of boost levels I will need to get to running a greddy fmic, bov, and hks filter also fan delete with two radiator spal fans to get to 300 whp on a DD....

300whp + stock 370cc injectors/stock maf = melted/broken pistons blown head/head gasket! DONT BOOST PAST 14 PSI AT MOST ON STOCK INJECTORS

[shift_SRDETuser]

300whp + stock 370cc injectors/stock maf = melted/broken pistons blown head/head gasket! DONT BOOST PAST 14 PSI AT MOST ON STOCK INJECTORS

yeah I was going to do one bar but keep in mind I am using a 255lph walbro fuel pump...

[supreamS14]

Im speaking from experience, I had my MBC set to 14 psi. It creeped to 18 PSI....Blew valve cover gasket,head gasket, rod bearing and melted/ broke #4 pistone! I just got my car running 2 weeks ago, it took me 1 month to fix all this. I thought it was just a head gasket, I pulled the head and found a melted/broken piston and a rod bearing about to go!

[shift_SRDETuser]

The line that contains the restrictor is the short vac. line that runs from the solenoid to the T junction.

Here is a pic with the restricted line removed:



Shift_SRDETuser, that solenoid you have in your hand in your second picture is the BOOST SOLENOID!



If you note, the first picture in this reply is taken from an S14 SR, the solenoid in your hand is the boost solenoid. You will need to mount it to your strut tower, run a short line from it to a 'T', one line of the 'T' will go to the wastegate, the other remaining line will go to the nipple on the air intake. The nipple on the air intake tube is for recirculation. If you look at the very first picture I posted in this thread you will see the nipple on the intake tube I am referring to.

Now, as far as wiring goes its fairly straight forward. You will need to find the plug on your engine harness that matches the connection of the solenoid. Extend this line [roughly 2.5'] so that it reaches to the mounting location of your boost solenoid. The first time you take your car out with this modification you need to make sure you are building boost properly. There is a chance to overboost, so be careful and make sure everything is connected properly and securely. You should then be hitting 10-11psi

will this mod creep up boost to a dangerous level? and how could I do this with a reccirc hks bov?

[redtop91]

Did all the japan peps remove this vac limiter off their stock cars?

I'm pretty positive most did. Free boost? Who wouldn't?

[jr_ss]

yeah I was going to do one bar but keep in mind I am using a 255lph walbro fuel pump...

It doesn't matter if you're using a Walbro 255, your injectors can only flow 370cc/min and you'll be running them at 100% duty cycle at 1bar. You need to upgrade to 550cc's or larger and get a tune to run 1bar or higher, otherwise you'll be replacing the motor soon.

What you need to do is do some research. You seem really clueless about your engine and what it can and can't handle. Just throwing boost at it does not necessarily make it faster...

If you want it to last, you need to keep it around 10-12psi on a stock fuel system w/ a walbro. Get an FPR, 550cc's and a tune and you can run 1bar or higher. Keep in mind though the S14 t28 is nothing more than a heat pump after 14-16psi...

[shift_SRDETuser]

It doesn't matter if you're using a Walbro 255, your injectors can only flow 370cc/min and you'll be running them at 100% duty cycle at 1bar. You need to upgrade to 550cc's or larger and get a tune to run 1bar or higher, otherwise you'll be replacing the motor soon.

What you need to do is do some research. You seem really clueless about your engine and what it can and can't handle. Just throwing boost at it does not necessarily make it faster...

If you want it to last, you need to keep it around 10-12psi on a stock fuel system w/ a walbro. Get an FPR, 550cc's and a tune and you can run 1bar or higher. Keep in mind though the S14 t28 is nothing more than a heat pump after 14-16psi...

that is the goal of 10-11 psi using the restrictor removal plan. I do not want to use a boost controller or have to tune it yet since I want fuel economy and a daily driver. I guess I would be happy with 250-280 hp but I am curious as to there being any adverse affects of running 10-11 psi on a stock engine?

[redtop91]

No. A friend of mine runs 13. He's a link to his thread with his results. You'll see you won't have any trouble reaching your goals: zerothread?id=320367

[inkslingers13]

yeah I was going to do one bar but keep in mind I am using a 255lph walbro fuel pump...

[jr_ss]

GET THE HKS ADJUSTABLE WASTEGATE! I've told you this multiple times now. It's 100 bones and can raise your boost by shortening the rod... Make it the same length as your stock one, then give it a few turns in shorter, 2-3 turns should get you 10psi... If it doesn't pull the arm off the flapper and turn it in some more.

Done and Done.

[shift_SRDETuser]

If anybody is interested in seeing an actual picture of the stock restrictor then here it is. That white line that runs through the tube has a metal ring in it that I guess reduces flow----

[inkslingers13]

well said

[shift_SRDETuser]

why would I want to spend a 100 bucks for manual boost control if removing the restrictor gets me to the same 10-11 pounds with out replacing the wastegate?

[jr_ss]

why would I want to spend a 100 bucks for manual boost control if removing the restrictor gets me to the same 10-11 pounds with out replacing the wastegate?

You were b***hing about spending $300 on an EBC, I threw up an alternative option.