Check it out - Subscribe to the channel for more vids coming soon!

If you can address not only the differential, but also switch the axles to a more conventional bolted flange design, that would be money.

There are a million different things I'd rather do than go back under there wrangling a differential while massaging the axles in - and this was being done on jackstands.

***
Good luck on the project!

Great video! I saw this on the FB page and am eagerly anticipating Part 2. Don't forget to check the improved zero to sixty times!

Haha yeah Ed - they were a pain in the you know what. I'll look at the stub axles on the R200 vs the R208 and see if they are the same.

Knowing that they are open vs VLSD diffs though, I can almost guarantee they are different.

EdBwoy wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 07, 2020 6:10 am

If you can address not only the differential, but also switch the axles to a more conventional bolted flange design, that would be money.

There are a million different things I'd rather do than go back under there wrangling a differential while massaging the axles in - and this was being done on jackstands.

***
Good luck on the project!

Thanks! Yes, they will be tested with the dragy.

I have a strip of road I use every time to keep things consistent. In Mexico of course lol

madmanpauly wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 07, 2020 9:43 am

Great video! I saw this on the FB page and am eagerly anticipating Part 2. Don't forget to check the improved zero to sixty times!

Cool video. I am also looking forward to part 2. :-) Seems like such a simple difference. Would a thick steel DIY adapter plate work out? Bolt the plate onto G37 differential, then bolt the plate to M56 body.

BTW, what's the reason for the swap? Did the M56 diff break somehow?

The PPE exhaust interests me a lot. But PPE web site doesn't list any M56 exhaust, so was that a custom job or a mistaken reference?

Nothing broken, installing for performance an adaptor plate is a good idea but I have a different plan using solid diff bushings instead but i haven't worked out the details yet.

For the PPE Engineering Exhaust, I know they are working diligently to get it up on their site, but with everything right now, it's taking longer than expected. If you call or email them I'm sure they will get you an updated timeline.

ibc wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 08, 2020 8:33 am

Cool video. I am also looking forward to part 2. :-) Seems like such a simple difference. Would a thick steel DIY adapter plate work out? Bolt the plate onto G37 differential, then bolt the plate to M56 body.

BTW, what's the reason for the swap? Did the M56 diff break somehow?

The PPE exhaust interests me a lot. But PPE web site doesn't list any M56 exhaust, so was that a custom job or a mistaken reference?

ken in az wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 08, 2020 10:23 am

Nothing broken, installing for performance an adaptor plate is a good idea but I have a different plan using solid diff bushings instead but i haven't worked out the details yet.

For the PPE Engineering Exhaust, I know they are working diligently to get it up on their site, but with everything right now, it's taking longer than expected. If you call or email them I'm sure they will get you an updated timeline.

ibc wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 08, 2020 8:33 am

Cool video. I am also looking forward to part 2. :-) Seems like such a simple difference. Would a thick steel DIY adapter plate work out? Bolt the plate onto G37 differential, then bolt the plate to M56 body.

BTW, what's the reason for the swap? Did the M56 diff break somehow?

The PPE exhaust interests me a lot. But PPE web site doesn't list any M56 exhaust, so was that a custom job or a mistaken reference?

What about offset poly bushings? You could try getting the metal core and pour your own.


...nevermind, that's not going to work. Going solid and offsetting the hole might be the best option

Side note, make sure you buy real castle nuts instead of re-using that thin sheet metal cap over the axle nut.

You'll need 2 washers per axle. It's out of stock at amazon, but this is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OKFZTI

This is the castle nut I used:
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/part ... 92210-0280
You need the washers since this nut isn't as tall as the stock nut.

OEM Rotor washer p/n: 40037-1CA0A. Need one per axle

I installed mines like this: Washer -> Rotor Washer -> Washer -> Castle Nut -> Cotter Pin

Well, the diff is in and it's a monster. Wow what a difference.

I ended up using offset solid aluminum diff bushings from Z1 Motorsports. Thankfully there is no diff noise from using the solid bushings. I was worried there would be.

I'll have the vid up soon.

Nice!

Did you use these and just enlarge two holes?
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... 10357.html

Pretty much. Would have been better if I had a lathe, but it worked.

Yoda's Master wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 13, 2020 2:19 am

Nice!

Did you use these and just enlarge two holes?
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... 10357.html

Glad it worked out and wasn't a waste of money.

This is my next major move... this is ridiculously fire

Now that you got it working, you should install the Z1 subframe collars to stiffen up your rear end. Our subframe is the same as the q50/60 so it should fit without any issues.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... 15430.html

TBH, I think the Z1 built q50/60 LSD diff would have been a direct fit.

Yoda's Master wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 27, 2021 9:12 pm

Now that you got it working, you should install the Z1 subframe collars to stiffen up your rear end. Our subframe is the same as the q50/60 so it should fit without any issues.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... 15430.html

TBH, I think the Z1 built q50/60 LSD diff would have been a direct fit.

Interesting about the Q50/60 Diff and I think you're right. And I like the ratio better at 2.9 than the 3.356 - Yoda can you check to see what model comes with VLSD?

I might make a part three with this diff.

Actually it doesn't look like the Q50/60 has a VLSD factory option. The Z1 LSD is $1200 so that takes the budget minded folks out of the equation. The fully assembled Z1 R190 unit is $1800 with a $600 core charge - ouch!

My swap was $300 for the diff, $75 x 2 for the axles, and $120 for the solid bushings. Add in a $100 alignment and Diff Fluid $30 and that's ~$600 Far cheaper.

What I'd like for someone to do is find a m37 rear diff and pull it apart and look at the axles and see if we can make a hybrid of some sorts that is completely bolt in and has a LSD option. That makes the swap more complex.

If I made swap bushings for the G37 diff, How many people would be interested? I think the G37 diff is the cheapest and easiest option.

Yea it does cost more, but I was going with the easier swap route.

If you still have it, can you check if the two forward stock g37 bushings fits the stock m56 diff? I tossed my old ones when I swapped them out for poly a few years ago and I want to swap the m56 diff bushings for poly since I have it out.

I would do the g37 swap, but it's hard for me to get a diff shipped to me.

Curious about LSD options for the M56.
Or for sure we know the q50/60 will direct swap into m56?

808DRFTR wrote: ↑

Tue May 25, 2021 9:48 pm

Curious about LSD options for the M56.
Or for sure we know the q50/60 will direct swap into m56?

Try get a junkyard diff and fit it up. You might need to get the q50 axles or replace the left axle with another right axle.

If it does fit, then that's your core when you buy the z1 diff.

Has anybody found out if q50/q60 diffs are a direct fit? I'm aware that the subframe is basically the same. Looking at the diffs compared to a M/Q70 diff, they look like the exact same dimensionally. I agree with Yoda about the bushing, but I really want to know if this has been confirmed or not.

Bonkle wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 18, 2022 1:27 am

Has anybody found out if q50/q60 diffs are a direct fit? I'm aware that the subframe is basically the same. Looking at the diffs compared to a M/Q70 diff, they look like the exact same dimensionally. I agree with Yoda about the bushing, but I really want to know if this has been confirmed or not.

it is the same frame. same part number

Yoda's Master wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 18, 2022 1:37 am

Bonkle wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 18, 2022 1:27 am

Has anybody found out if q50/q60 diffs are a direct fit? I'm aware that the subframe is basically the same. Looking at the diffs compared to a M/Q70 diff, they look like the exact same dimensionally. I agree with Yoda about the bushing, but I really want to know if this has been confirmed or not.

it is the same frame. same part number

Thanks for confirming really quickly, I planned on getting the z1 built diff and just dropping it in. Hope it works out.

Bonkle wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 18, 2022 1:39 am

Yoda's Master wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 18, 2022 1:37 am

it is the same frame. same part number

Thanks for confirming really quickly, I planned on getting the z1 built diff and just dropping it in. Hope it works out.

not sure if the M axles will work, but let us know.

Yoda's Master wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 18, 2022 1:43 am

Bonkle wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 18, 2022 1:39 am

Thanks for confirming really quickly, I planned on getting the z1 built diff and just dropping it in. Hope it works out.

not sure if the M axles will work, but let us know.

It's gonna be a few months, but I'll be sure to post updates here, maybe make a new thread. I definitely won't be sticking with the stock open diff, that's for sure. If it doesn't work, I hope I can sell the z1 diff easily lol.

Bonkle wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 18, 2022 1:45 am

Yoda's Master wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 18, 2022 1:43 am

not sure if the M axles will work, but let us know.

It's gonna be a few months, but I'll be sure to post updates here, maybe make a new thread. I definitely won't be sticking with the stock open diff, that's for sure. If it doesn't work, I hope I can sell the z1 diff easily lol.

You might as well install all poly bushings while you're at it. Car feels so much better even with an open diff.
m56-rear-subframe-bushing-replacement-w ... 28995.html

Haven't gotten around to doing the swap yet, but I found this post on Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/6250480 ... 907441566/
Apparently, the Q50RS diff is plug-and-play, and all extra that's needed is the axles. This makes my job a lot easier, but I have a lot of other expenses to deal with before I can get to this. Hope this helps some of you guys.

That q50 RS diff is not Limited Slip, but will "bolt up"

Also, the CV Axles might be the same. A little more research is needed.


Remember, the only reason I wanted to do the swap was to gain Limited Slip.

Z1 Motorsports sells a complete q50 diff with Limited Slip installed for like $1600. Which obviously blows this for budget minded folks.