Lowering the car

[vikesfankevin1986]

I was looking at suspension stuff and I was a little confused. I see there are "lowering springs" and coilovers. Do you need both of these to lower a car or just the springs? I was under the impression you need coilovers. Is this correct? If not I will spend 200 bucks to lower the car with the springs lol
Also are the shocks the same thing as the coilovers?

[Initial_Z]

I was looking at suspension stuff and I was a little confused. I see there are "lowering springs" and coilovers. Do you need both of these to lower a car or just the springs? I was under the impression you need coilovers. Is this correct? If not I will spend 200 bucks to lower the car with the springs lol
Also are the shocks the same thing as the coilovers?

O-M-G ... And you have more post count than me. What the hell have you been whoring ? lol ...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... rs/Part_1/

[vikesfankevin1986]

I have never looked into any of this stuff before. I have only looked at performance stuff. Unlike most of you guys I am not super concerned about lowering the car. A lot of you think a stock Z looks like a truck with those "big gaps" but I think it's far from a truck. I just started looking at the stuff because I will looking in the suspension section because I want to get the adjustable tension rods...Maybe I shouldn't have looked because I don't need to be spending more money...

[Initial_Z]

^ No wait. I'll be nice and save you from reading all of that.

There are 5 ways to lower a car:

1/ Cut spring

2/ lowering spring

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-96-94 ... ccessories

3/ Ground contol

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GROUND-C ... ccessories

4/ Coilover

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-96-30 ... ccessories

5/ Air suspension

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ksport-A ... ccessories

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

#2,3 and 4 are your most realistic option.

#2 you will need high end aftermarket shocks to compliment with the stiffer rate from lowering spring. KYB shocks wont do. Tokico shoks might do. Koni shocks will do.

#4 is your optimal option for performance.

#3 is the intermediate hybrid between 2 an 4

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Purpose of lowering a car is more than just atheistic reason, lose wheel gap, slammed, hellaflush etc ... It' for handling and performance on road couse, which I'm sure you are interested about. Lowering the car is lowering the center weight to the ground. Result will be less body roll, more stability during turn. Hence, it's the reason you might see SUV on drag strip, but never on track course. Weight is not their issue, center weight is.

I still can't believe you owned an Eclipse and not knowing the basic stuffs about suspension. Not trying to make fun of you or anything but this is just as bad as ... eh ... NVM ... This is pretty bad lol.

[vikesfankevin1986]

And I am leaning towards drag racing I think...I would like to do a little of both. From reading on IPP and SZ it sounds like the coilovers are highly adjustable so they could help in drag racing and on the track. I could adjust them to make the car preload during drag racing and reducing roll on the track. So would I want to go with coilovers in the future? The ground control are a lot cheaper but can you adjust them for performance or just the drop height?

[Initial_Z]

Ground control has pretty high spring rate (stiff). It allow you to adjust height. Performance depend mainly on the combination of the shock's stiffness and spring rate. So you can have

stiff spring + soft struts = no good

soft spring + stiff strut = no good

stiff spring + stiff strut = ideal for performnce

soft spring + soft strut = ideal for daily drive = your OEM set up

I always recomment people going with coilover because both spring and struts are built in and calibrated as one unit. So it save you from shopping around, reading reviews around about different brand.

IPP and SZ are good brand. Half of Z32 owners on here would swear by Powertrix. I personally swear by Godspeed. Decide for yourself

[es.biggs]

Powertrix makes really nice coilovers...I rode in my buddy's Z with them. Felt better than my (beat up) stock struts and it was lower. If you can afford coilovers, they are the way to go. Lot's of people who buy lowering springs/aftermarket struts end up upgrading again to get coilovers later on. It's always better to upgrade once...saves a lot in the longrun.

[JsickZ32]

^
Well anything is gonna feel better than your beat up stock shocks.
I got my shocks and springs for 250! The illuminas have 9k miles on them and the springs are brand new.
And its not just buying coilovers and your good to go. You also need fucas, rucas and tension rods to correct the negative camber you'll get when lowering the car, and that can cost as much as the coilovers itself depending on what brand you get.

[vikesfankevin1986]

Well I was planning on doing that anyways. I need new tension rod bushings so I was going to get the adjustable tension rods.

[Z32TT]

Cutting sprinds should never be suggested

[JsickZ32]

Well I was planning on doing that anyways. I need new tension rod bushings so I was going to get the adjustable tension rods.

if you buy adjustable tension rods your gonna need these

http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... cts_id=821

[vikesfankevin1986]

yup and the arms for the back too right?

[Z-owned]

If you don't want the car lowered to much I would just find someone selling a set of good shocks like agx, illumina's etc that have eibech springs, tein h techs etc. Then all you need is the 300 degree camber kit which is really easy to make yourself (what I did for my brothers car) and your good to go. I found my brother a set of good shocks with eibach springs for $275 bucks, made the 300 degree kit from some 1/8th aluminum strips and that was it besides an alignment. Upgrading the tension rods would be a good since the stock one's are probably worn out in the bushing.

[vikesfankevin1986]

I will see how things are when I am looking at lowering it. I had all that performance stuff I wanted to do first. The tension rods and the arms I consider more of a must because the bushings do need to be replaced but I don't NEED to lower the car right now. Plus I want different wheels and I might want to wait until I get those...I don't know I will see how things goes. Maybe I get a few hundred cash for Christmas. I also saw a brake/rotor kit that SZ has that I should look into. It's better than stock and 5 lbs lighter per wheel...it will run around 900 but I have never had brakes or rotors done to the car since I have had it. Might want to get that done too...

[Z-owned]

If your going to spend 900 on brakes I would seriously consider looking at the akebono bbk or wilwood kit over spending that much to only keep stock calipers and upgrade to a 2pc rotor for the most part. If you don't want to spend much on brakes just get a set of brembo rotors and some hawk hps pads and some upgraded fluid like super blue.

[JsickZ32]

If your going to spend 900 on brakes I would seriously consider looking at the akebono bbk or wilwood kit over spending that much to only keep stock calipers and upgrade to a 2pc rotor for the most part. If you don't want to spend much on brakes just get a set of brembo rotors and some hawk hps pads and some upgraded fluid like super blue.

+1
for 250 more you get this
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart ... e=300&UID=

or you can get z1 13" 2 piece rotors for 600.
http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... cts_id=141

i have ash spec 13" bracket with baerspeed 13" 2 piece rotors

[vikesfankevin1986]

This is SZ's kit
https://specialtyz.com/shop/300zx/braki ... e-kit.html

Do you think that isn't worth it?
What about something like this...
http://www.importpartspro.com/sttest1brup.html

If I add up front and rear rotors, the brake lines, and the front and rear breaks of the brands you suggested it comes out to around 670 bucks...That still isn't that cheap. The SZ kit is 200 more. Do you think its worth it? How long can I plan on the rotors and stuff lasting?

[vikesfankevin1986]

I don't really want bigger stuff unless I need it because I want to make sure my wheels clear and stuff. I don't want to order stuff and find out it doesnt fit or be worried about finding wheels that fit my brakes.

This is what it says about the SZ kit...Do you think these other options are better?

Our very own high performance upgrade OEM size braking system. Our kit retains the factory caliper and rotor size. By utilizing unique rotor composition, 2-piece hat, and a directional curved vane; the stock braking system has never felt better.

We put the rotors to the extreme test before finally deciding to release it to the community. We had to make sure it could stand up to the abuse. Specialty-Z and a customer of ours worked in conjunction with Baer to create a true performance upgrade for the stock brake size. Brake kits that use larger rotors on stock calipers maybe flawed since the brake pad is not making a complete face contact with the larger diameter rotor.

Please scroll down to read more on our kit, and purchasing options.

All components from our kit can be ordered individually.

We strongly suggest using the Brake Man pads as testing was done with this pad, and is superior to any other street\track pad in its class. We do offer Brake Man racing pads for the track enthusiasts, please call us to request this pad.

--------------------------------------

The front rotors use a 2-piece hat design to reduce weight and offer a great look that stands up to rust. We offer the rotors only in a plain finish or slotted/zinc as pictured.

The factory front rotor and its replacements (Brembos) weigh in at 17.5lbs a piece.

Our 2-piece design weighs in at 12.5lbs. A weight savings of 5lbs per rotor! Reducing unsprung weight, as many already know, has great effect in performance. Saving weight has never been easier.

A good view of the directional curved vane. You can see how our rotor on the left has its center cooling vane curved to allow cool air to enter the rotor and remove heat more efficiently. On the right is an OEM/Brembo rotor, it is easy to see its vane has no good cooling properties. compared to our Baer upgrade.

Our Baer rotors are backed by a lifetime warranty by its manufacturer to resist warping. This applies only to a rotor that is still in spec thickness.

Please note that the rotors are labeled right & left and have an arrow pointing to their forward rotation. It is crucial to install them on their appropriate side. Basic installation instructions are included. Check out our right column for install tips. Rear rotors are 1-piece. Fluid is not included.

Complete Kit includes front/rear rotors, pads, and SS brake lines.

[Z-owned]

I don't think the specialty z kit is worth it when the akebono kit can be had for a couple hundred more and the arizona z car 6 pot can be had for just a little more than the akebono kit and it comes with two piece rotors as well.

These are what I would be looking at if your willing to spend some money on brakes and want something that is substantially better.

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart ... 43.126.190

http://www.arizonazcar.com/300zxbrakes.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Big-Brak ... 0501665465

If you don't want bigger for fear of fitting I would look at these
http://www.350zbrakes.com/300zxbrakes.htm

[JsickZ32]

900 for 2 piece rotors is too much IMO. i got my 13" bracket from ash for 130 shipped and the 13" 2 piece rotors for 350 shipped. thats 480 for a better braking upgraded IMO. or you can just replace your rotors with brembos and replace your stock brake lines with ss lines and get some HAWKS pads and be done if you dont want anything bigger than stock.

[JDMricist]

http://www.ashspecz.com/ashspec/brakes/brakes.htm
That looks like the best deal I've seen. I'd go with the one piece slotted/drilled

[simmode1]

Unlike most of you guys I am not super concerned about lowering the car. I have never looked into any of this stuff before. I have only looked at performance stuff.

Lolwut?

[vikesfankevin1986]

Unlike most of you guys I am not super concerned about lowering the car. I have never looked into any of this stuff before. I have only looked at performance stuff.

Lolwut?

I figured I would finally get a comment from Mr. Car Needs to be Slammed...

[simmode1]

I don't think every car needs to be slammed. But I do think of lowering as an aspect of performance, which apparently, you do not...

[vikesfankevin1986]

When you track the car yes...in drag racing not so much. I guess I should be more specific and say the performance of the motor. Lowering the car isn't going to make it faster.

[Initial_Z]

^ And I bet you have never gone to the limit where the car can not handle it's own power. Ever heard of wheels hopping in older Mustangs ? It can destroy your transmission faster than spider man get laid. Braking is part of suspension set up too. Can't go fasti you can't brake fast, can ya ? When you are going 100mph and have to choose a part to break between an engine piston and a shock strut piston. Which one would you rather have ? The list goes on ...

[simmode1]

Kevin... I am truly dumbfounded by what you think is important or unimportant in building a fast car.

http://www.competitionengineering.com/a ... hassis.asp

[vikesfankevin1986]

OMG I know it's f*** important but it's not at the top of my list. I don't have 20 grand sitting around to spend. I thought the aero of the Z was pretty decent already and f*** I didn't realized I needed upgraded suspension and brakes to go stoplight to stoplight with my amazing 318rwhp. I didn't realize they made the stock systems on the car so unsafe...I know you all think I street race but this isn't the case. Ever once in a while I go fast in a straight line from a roll. I don't take my car to the track or the strip. If my car is considerable faster during a 15 mph roll up to 60 or so I will say I'm sorry but it seems like you guys think I track my car every weekend.

Sorry if I sound stupid but I believe exhaust, intake, fuel injectors, boost control, intercoolers/piping/throttle bodies, and pulleys will make my car quicker from stoplight to stoplight than lowering it. When it becomes a track/drag car or when you guys send me a few grand I will think about spending 3 grand on suspension.

[vikesfankevin1986]

I should get a civic and keep the motor bone stock but lower it and upgrade the brakes and tell people its a fast car because it has better suspension and aero...

[BigTDogg (MA)]

4/ Coilover

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-96-30 ... ccessories

Really? eBay coilovers?