Low-budget power mods?

[AZhitman]

1993 S13 (California car) with KA24DE, recently added HotShot header, BRM 2.5" exhaust with 22" resonator, gutted cat. Recent plugs, cap, rotor.

Need some ideas on low-budget power stuff...

Thanks guys!

[TrunkMonkey]

you still planning on boosting?

-demetrius

[RedHatchback]

performance spark plug wires and ignition coil,and maybe a crank pulley......those are pretty cheap and will bost up your numbers a little

[180fan]

3 letters man. K-A-T!!!

[:: orion ::]

ASP Pulley: $100 from rpmoutlet.com...

http://www.rpmoutlet.com/aspimp.htm#nissan

A nice, linear gain of 4-5rwhp...and better gas mileage!

BTW, it does not underdrive the A/C, so no loss of cooling (maybe a concern if you are in AZ...?).

- Brian

[BadMojo]

Orion,

Do you think there's any validity to claims of frequent front main seal leaks with the installation of lightweight crank pulleys? The complaints I've read about were related to the UR pulleys, and honestly I don't know if there's any differences in design between the two products.

I've also seriously been considering a pulley, ASP or the UR.

[NateDogg]

I've had my ASP for 2 years and 30k mi and has never leaked. It has been by far the best 'power mod per dollar' for my 240sx. (I/E/JWT/IGN)

A definite "budget mod" for any NA owner.

[TrunkMonkey]

Do you think there's any validity to claims of frequent front main seal leaks with the installation of lightweight crank pulleys? The complaints I've read about were related to the UR pulleys, and honestly I don't know if there's any differences in design between the two products.

sounds like an installation problem rather than a problem with the pulley itself.

-demetrius

[corn322]

yeah, my asp has caused me no problems so far.

also, you could take the crank fan off and wire in electric fans. I dunno about the heat in AZ though. but it has worked fine for me in TX so far.

[AZhitman]

I like the pulley idea. That's a good deal.

Someone mentioned ignition stuff - I'm currently all stock there. What brand coil and wires are real performers and not just hype?

Boost is gonna be a year off or so.

[:: orion ::]

Do you think there's any validity to claims of frequent front main seal leaks with the installation of lightweight crank pulleys? The complaints I've read about were related to the UR pulleys...

There used to be...

The UR pulley ws not machined correctly (had a ridge on the back) and would rub through the front seal.

This has been corrected AFAIK...

The ASP pulley never had that problem...

They are both good, but the ASP is clearly a better deal. Only issue with it is that the timing marks are often a little off...the spacing is weird on them. And it's a tiny bit heavier compared to the UR pulley.

I've run an ASP for ~5 years with no front main seal change...I put a new one in when I got the pulley, and never since.

- Brian

[180fan]

Oops sorry dude, didn't see that you put budget mods.

I used the aurora ignition wires from PDM, they're 8.5mm thick and had very low resistance when I got them. Did a tune up so I can't say if they gave me noticiable difference, probably not but with a tune up I got killer mileage and better response. Used NGK Ir plugs, aurora wires, oem cap and rotor.

I did get a noticiable difference when I degreased my motor. You see, the crank pulley had a bunch of road grime in it, so the face of the pulley was flat. When I hosed it down with degreaser and scrubbed it down with a toothbrush, man did the rpms fly afterwards. lol.

Ooh can't forget the cheapo fuel system cleaner. Greased lighting and the Redline fuel system cleaners actually made a noticiable difference in the cars I put them in. So might wanna give those a try too.

[BadMojo]

They are both good, but the ASP is clearly a better deal. Only issue with it is that the timing marks are often a little off...the spacing is weird on them. And it's a tiny bit heavier compared to the UR pulley.

I've run an ASP for ~5 years with no front main seal change...I put a new one in when I got the pulley, and never since.

- Brian

Thanks, Brian. Other than making setting your timing a bit of an adventure, the ASP sounds like an awesome deal for $100.

[AZhitman]

I'm gonna order it today. Also doing the 2 exhaust cam upgrade...

[toptechracing]

Cheap easy deal is to remove the injectors and have them scrubbed and flow checked. They should be within a very small percentage of each other .

[AZhitman]

Good idea - Tell me more...

[240sxHitman]

AZ wat kinda exhaust cams are you goin with? cuz im also lookin it to the low budget upgrades. afta i do suspension imma do the headers and a new exhaust.

[toptechracing]

I use RC engineering to do my stuff. Clean and matched injectors are worth a few ponies but the biggest deal is they restore that smooth quick acceleration back to the engine. (provided the engine is a decent piece)

I think it is http://www.rcengineeing.com

[180fan]

Oh forgot, there are always extra grounds you can put on. Doesn't cost much, and smooths out the motor's idle and what not. Possibly bumps up a few ponies.

[AZhitman]

AZ wat kinda exhaust cams are you goin with? cuz im also lookin it to the low budget upgrades. afta i do suspension imma do the headers and a new exhaust.

Got a spare exh cam from a KA24DE, supposedly 2 exh cams is the hot setup on the DOHC motor.

[AZhitman]

I use RC engineering to do my stuff. Clean and matched injectors are worth a few ponies but the biggest deal is they restore that smooth quick acceleration back to the engine. (provided the engine is a decent piece)

I think it is http://www.rcengineeing.com

Is it difficult to pull and clean the injectors on the KA? I'll read up when i get home to my FSM, but I'm curious if they can be bench-cleaned.

[AZhitman]

Oh forgot, there are always extra grounds you can put on. Doesn't cost much, and smooths out the motor's idle and what not. Possibly bumps up a few ponies.

Tell me more - I've always wondered where those ground wire kits were supposed to be connected...

[180fan]

On my SR, I've got them daisy chained from the battery's - terminal out to the mafs, and to the alternator's ground. From the alternator, I have it strung out to the block and another ground to the intake manifold, and throttle body. From the block, I have one more that strings out to the transmission, another that goes to the head. From the head, I have one that goes to the firewall. Basically where ever there's an important sensor or some electronics that do something for the engine control, just want it to ground to the battery. It'll be a bit different for the KA but the idea should be the same. I got my terminals and wires from Monster Cable and used 4 gauge wire. I think total I spent about 50 or 60 bucks since the terminals were pretty expensive. I probably used about 12 feet to reach everything. Hope that helps man

[AZhitman]

That helps - Thanks!

[180fan]

Oops it was 8 gauge for the regular grounds!!! I was using 4 gauge on my battery wiring and got the numbers mixed

[BadMojo]

I use RC engineering to do my stuff. Clean and matched injectors are worth a few ponies but the biggest deal is they restore that smooth quick acceleration back to the engine. (provided the engine is a decent piece)

I think it is http://www.rcengineeing.com

The URL is actually http://www.rceng.com/ and it looks like a pretty good deal. I think they say something like $24-$28 per injector.

[ArticDragon192]

I've alread heard from many owners that the Z32 fuel filter will add more pep to the KA.

[BadMojo]

No offense, but I find that hard to believe. Sure, it flows better (especially if your 240SX filter is all clogged up), but if you're running an otherwise stock fuel system what's the point?

I think the main reason people started using the Z32 filter was that a) it flows better, which isn't a bad thing and b) it was somehow cheaper than the 240SX filter and it fit.

[AZhitman]

Good point.

I need to change mine anyway...

[SeVa-S13]

It looks manlier than the S13 filter. Need any more reason?