Loud valves, lumpy idle...video

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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eh?
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When you took the head to the shop where were the Lifters? Did you remove them or did the shop?

Were they upright all the time? Did you submerge them in oil while out?

Since it's a just a video it's still pretty hard to diagnois but it sounds as if the lifters have air in them.



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USMCgetsome
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ok man... wtf... There is no way that the timing is dead on. I'd redo it. Seriously. Take off the belt and check it all again. Simply put that is exaclty what plagued my motor when i cranked it over. It took everyone on here months to figure out what it was. We found that i was off by just a tooth. Unbelievable. Problems solved after that. Smooth idle and operation. Did you change that oil pump?

Boy you'd better change to the Nismo FPR. Thats also a good helper.

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eh?
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From the pics the timing *looks* dead on to me..


s14 2510's
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lifters more than likely. But who knows with how milky your oil was. I shure hope your lower end bearings are fine. I guess we will see. I know of a couple people that have spun rod bearings from not changing oil after head changes. I guess lesson learned.

Darius
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I really appreciate all the help you guys have been giving me through my entire swap and thank god every day that NICO is what it is. I'd be up shyte creek otherwise.

With that said, when I had the head resurfaced, I personally removed the camshafts and lifters so if something broke it would be my fault and I couldn't get pissed at anyone else. I kept them upright and stored for 4 days w/o oil submergence. Plus the time they sat in the motor before I installed the head and actually got oil running through them (few weeks). It doesn't say in the FSM how long "longer" is but I'm thinking that there could be air in the lifters. How do I get air out the lifters? Is there a way to do it without tearing the entire motor apart again?

If that is the case, how do I get it out. I sorta followed the inspection procedure, but basically installed them and pushed them completely in and they didn't move. WTF is with the air intrusion procedure anyways? Install the lifters, run the motor at 1000 rpm, take the entire thing apart and check the lifter head for movement again? If bad, replace? WTF is with that? It takes me a full day to remove the head while it's in the car! Stupid a$$ procedure if you ask me.

And about the timing, it was dead on. I counted the teeth in the belt. That is why I was not worried about piston-to-valve interference. And for the person who asked about that, yes the RB25 is an interference motor as are all RB's I believe? AND I'm running 10W30 motor oil (dino oil).

I'll try to get a new video of it this weekend and see if anyone notices the difference.

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Carl H
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to prime the lifters one really should submerge them in oil and with a small piece of thin wire press thru the hole in the top of the lifter till no air comes out.else like i said warm the car up and rev it to 3k for a few min, should pump the lifers up.

Darius
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Revving to 3000 is another issue since my MAF is somehow messed up. It's throwing a #12 code now and barely lets me rev it up to that. I think it's just a poor ground, but I was too annoyed last night to even think about that.

So are the lifters just a solid piece of steel that has a hole machined in the top? I can't really tell how they work or how they are supplied with oil? Is it from holes in the ring on the side?

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eh?
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I've pulled RB25 heads more times than I can count, it's not fun but you wouldn't need to pull it to get to the lifters.Give yourslef a couple weeks and get back at it.You just need to remove the radiator, crank pulley, timing belt covers, cas, valve covers and cams.

The lifters are spring loaded and uses oil to tension it.

Darius
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Here's the improved video. I don't know what the deal is with the camera but I think its mic is a lot more receptive to treble sounds than bass so it sounds a lot worse. Like in my first video you can barely even hear the exhaust. I added some sea foam to help dry the oil prior to this video and it sounds 80% healthier. Before it sounded like the knocking was coming from everywhere and now it just seems to tick on the first or second cylinder and it's less pronounced. Note how my idle smoothed out for some reason as well...

http://media.putfile.com/RB25DET-improved-run

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Shocker
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sounds better and idle is smooth, but still thats sound is not interly normal.. its not the usual sound of the hydro lifters... but improving.

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240slidekat
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is it just me or does it sound the same, just faster ticks

Darius
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Like I said, the camera doesn't pick up the sound very well, so they both sound the same. But I can phonically tell a difference while I'm standing in front of it. You'll just have to trust me.


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