LOUD ticking

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elwesso
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What Id like to know (asap) is if I should cancel this appointment for an engine flush.....


Q45tech
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Follow instructions!

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pito11213
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natsoundup

give me an im or email me at [email protected]

I would like to know the mileage on the engine now.

As far as economics lets see what we could do if you wanted to part with it.

sorry to sound pushy, but i know i want a motor and am exploring all possible avenues

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elwesso
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Alright... Im ready to go..... Im gonna get this Q going back perfect again...

Ill order some quick clean from joe, and if they dont have it I know of another place to get it as well.....

At autozone they had a 24qt pack of cheap exxon oil or somethig like that..... Ill go buy a drain pan and do weekly oil changes, put seafoam in with it, and then with the ATF trick and driving 15 mins before the drain.....

If Im only doing weekly oil changes (for me < 100 miles) I think I can leave the filter in there for every other change.....

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elwesso
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Im curious, but I just started up the Q and im going to continue this, but can the water pump make this sort of noise?? it kinda sounds like its coming from the front of the engine near that area......

I still need to clean up my sludge I know that, but its something that just came to my mind.....

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elwesso
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OK now I am equally confused and worried...

I just took the car out for some errands (had to get gas, etc) and there was NO ticking... Slightly at startup but as I drove the car around it didnt make any ticking.. Im still driving the car easy and Im gonna start the ATF thing (joe didnt have quick clean) sometime this week... then im going full force when i get back up to the shop.....

The difference is, I took the injector fuse out and cranked the car until the oil lgith went out... Mayb have made a differnece, and Ill do this everytime if need be.....

DAEDALUS
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Sounds like you should be elated, not worried or confused.

maxnix
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Sounds like something was stuck.

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elwesso
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WEll this certainly makes it not as big of a deal.. AS long as it doesnt come back... This will at least let me drive it and then ill do the ATF thing up at the shop...

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Rex
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Problems with unknown or unrational solutions are more troubling than problems that you've yet to solve.

maxnix
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elwesso wrote:WEll this certainly makes it not as big of a deal.. AS long as it doesnt come back... This will at least let me drive it and then ill do the ATF thing up at the shop...
Or get the BG Quick clean from Ryno. I wouldn't neglect it just because some piece of flotsam has moved on. Be agressive!

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elwesso
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I will go with the ATF thing first... More economical decision at this point..... But I plan on doing about 5 oil changes with the ATF trick in one day..... Thatshould clean it up nicely.....

maxnix
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Q45tech wrote:Follow instructions!
Is anyone listening? :confused:

Q45tech
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Oil light on? If the the oil light doesn't go out within 1-1.5-2 second of running after an oil change something is wrong! 3 psi is mightly low pressure and the pump should deliver that instantly..............unless bearing wear.

Pulling injector fuse?

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elwesso
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Well assuming the damage is already done, I guess all I can do is try and clean up as best I can and keep it running good.... not really much I can do about it now, just do my best from this point on.....

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sil80drifter
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What is BG Clean and how does it compare to Seafoam?

sil80

Q45tech
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Xylene and toluene [very volatile like gasoline] and a massive dose of surficants for varnish.

The product is designed to lift varnish and and get it into oil.......it will evaporate in 15-20 minutes redepositing the varnish somewhere if you don't drain oil on time.Why you follow instructions on can precisely.Oil temperature must rise to 180F for the process to work, then you drain hot.

The cold varnish is so hard you must rotory sand it off otherwise or use methyl chloride which will destroy the seals [front and rear main] and the HLA and RTV..............there is no easy way once abuse lets it build up.

There are multiple kinds of crud left from oil degradation.......it usually takes 2,3,4 different formula of solvents to attack them all.

Good to try things on inside valve cover varnish you will see how impossible it is to clean non rotating parts without destroying other parts.

I have tried over 35 solvent type individual chemicals.......not commercial but lab grade individual chemicals.

BG44k and BG Quick Clean for engines require hazardous labeling to transport........extremely flammable.......more than gasoline.

Stuff at parts stores is benign doesn't usually do much other than the kerosene and pine oil for sludge.

timatt
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What is BG as in BG Quick Clean???? Is this an acronym for something or is it a trade name? Where can these BG products be purchased.

As a side note, I sometimes wish that we could explain our acronyms more on this list so that those of us that don't eat, drink and breathe Q terminology can follow the discourse easier. Thanks for listening to my rant!

Timatt

maxnix
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Try the Infiniti Articles.

BG Products, Inc.

Buy from Joe or Ryno Products for the ones he doesn't carry.

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sil80drifter
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So what is recommended? BG Quick Clean or BG Engine Purge? I ask because the description for engine purge also has it it that it can "remove soot and deposits from around the rings" so... not sure.

sil80

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elwesso
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Or you could try what was mentioned earlier with the ATF... Thats what Ill be doing..... 1 can goes to one change, and even if I do have to use ATF more, its a wash...

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sil80drifter
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Well, I've used Seafoam so far, and as far as I can tell it did a good cleanign job, I was just wondering if BG is a LOT better and even worth the hassle. The ATF I'm sure has not much better of an effect than Seafoam, correct?

sil80

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elwesso
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I think ATF would work better than seafoam....

Seafoam is the duct tape of petroleum products.. You can use it for anything for temporary fixes, but if you wnat it to be permanent you gotta do it right.....

maxnix
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I think there was an earlier post by Q45tech on the dangers of alkaline cleaners like Seafoam. Might be worth a search.

dcook
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OK...my car has been ticking like that since our first oil change when we bought it at 80,000 miles. I have a can of BG44...will it work like BG Quick Clean?

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sil80drifter
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found Q45tech's post, where he just said he wouldn't put Seafoam near the engine, butno reason for his opinion, inspite of one of the members asking him that same question "WHY is it bad?"

sil80

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elwesso
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Yeah ive seen him post a lot about that he thinks seafoam is bad, but doesnt say why...

Another thing to consider is Fred has used it many times and has cured an issue like mine with seafoam on one of his other Q...

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sil80drifter
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exactly.... i'll buy the ATF and use it like prescribed, just to remove the extra sludge from the system i guess. or I'll say screw this and run the other half of the seafoam bottle through the system and not worry about it, it seems to work well; my valves are not ticking anymore. just the chain, and thats cuz there is low oil pressure.

sil80

psychic_mechanic
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dcook wrote:OK...my car has been ticking like that since our first oil change when we bought it at 80,000 miles. I have a can of BG44...will it work like BG Quick Clean?


Read the directions carefully, I'm pretty sure BG 44k goes in the gas tank, not the crankcase. I could be wrong, I've been behind a desk a couple years now....

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elwesso
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Yes BG44k is only for gasoline..... Not to be added to the crankcase.....


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