Post by
Q45tech »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/q45tech-u112.html
Sat Jul 03, 2004 6:12 pm
Xylene and toluene [very volatile like gasoline] and a massive dose of surficants for varnish.
The product is designed to lift varnish and and get it into oil.......it will evaporate in 15-20 minutes redepositing the varnish somewhere if you don't drain oil on time.Why you follow instructions on can precisely.Oil temperature must rise to 180F for the process to work, then you drain hot.
The cold varnish is so hard you must rotory sand it off otherwise or use methyl chloride which will destroy the seals [front and rear main] and the HLA and RTV..............there is no easy way once abuse lets it build up.
There are multiple kinds of crud left from oil degradation.......it usually takes 2,3,4 different formula of solvents to attack them all.
Good to try things on inside valve cover varnish you will see how impossible it is to clean non rotating parts without destroying other parts.
I have tried over 35 solvent type individual chemicals.......not commercial but lab grade individual chemicals.
BG44k and BG Quick Clean for engines require hazardous labeling to transport........extremely flammable.......more than gasoline.
Stuff at parts stores is benign doesn't usually do much other than the kerosene and pine oil for sludge.