Looking for some help with my charging system

[Booztd 3]

Guys

Ive been concerned lately about my charging system. After watching my battery voltages considerably more closely lately, I've noticed that the battery typically charges @ 11-11.5V @ idle.

I logged a pass at the drag strip last night and my bat voltage at its highest point was at 12.1V right after the pass.

I have relocated my battery to the rear, so I have some large cables running from the battery up to the starter, and then to the alternator.

I am wondering if there is a better configuration I should be using for the wiring, or if my alternator is possibly taking a crap

Im also using 2 10" puller fans that when activated, seem to cause quite a drain on the electrical system. When the fans activate, I can hear the pitch in my fuel pumps change slightly.

Thanks for any input

[Shocker]

Replace the stock RB alt with the Nissan Quest alt if you havent.

Check all grounds, make sure the block is grounded to the chassis, as well as the battery, not sure what ignition system you are using, but mine has a separate 8 gauge ground to the chassis as well from the ign box.

[Booztd 3]

The ign system is all stock

[robbie2883]

Replace the stock RB alt with the Nissan Quest alt if you havent.

more info on this please? is it a direct swap? what year and motor option on the quest? thanks!

[jdmser]

The Mercury Villager is also the same as the Quest. I want to say 93-98s are 110 amp and 99-02 are the 125 amps. Easiest way, at least for me, was drill out the mount tabs on the Quest alt, grind a little off the block, use a fwd sr20 bolt(the long one), and take two pieces of angle iron to make a bracket.






Modified by jdmser at 5:22 AM 9/6/2009

[streeteg]

Ive had a quest alternator sitting in my garage for the longest time now cause i dont have the means to fab my own bracket. My car makes the most horrendous squealing sound when it is first started until the volts get back up to 14.5. I really need to get that alternator in----its the last thing I really need to dooooo.

Anyone in the jersey area feel like fabbing something up for me?

[robbie2883]

so how about the wiring? the same?

[Cjmartz2k]

To be honest with you, that seems low, but not super low. I'm running 2 electric fans on the radiator, have the factory over heat fan wired up to come on with the a/c, an oil cooler fan, 2 fuel walbro pumps, HID's, and a sounds system. Idling with the a/c going full boogy, it only charges at about 11.6-11.8v, and I have no problems so far. Mine's a daily driver too.

[Booztd 3]

I'm running several things directly off the battery.

I have 3 30amp relays running - 2 For the fuel pumps, and 1 for the elec fans.

I do think something is wrong though, it seems like when I hit the brakes, I can even see the dash lights dim just a tad and I believe I can hear the rpms go down just a touch....

[Kansei240sx]

What gauge wire are you running to the battery? Too big gauge of wire can over work the alternator as well.

I agree with the rest of the people here, and go Quest alternator, its seriously the best electrical support mod you can do.

[gawdzilla]

Quest alternator made a big difference for me. The stock RB charging system (even though the 26 is rated 10 amps higher IIRC) isn't meant for all the extra accessories. Or you can have the stock alternator rebuilt for a higher amp rating.

[Darius]

It definitely sounds like the alternator is taking a crap. Either that or the regulator inside the alternator is not functioning properly, but it appears more that the alternator cannot keep up with the required current.

I'd be concerned with running that low of a voltage at WOT. That is a recipe for leaning out and blowing things up unexpectedly. Luckily you're running two fuel pumps, so your system has a decent amount of capacity left in it.

[Ramius83]

Sounds like you may have some worn brushes or slip-rings. This is easily repairable by any alternator/starter rebuild store. Or just bite the small .22 bullet and put a 110AMP Quest alternator in and be done with it.

[streeteg]

And as for the wiring it is the same so dont sweat the switch to the quest alternator- Same bracket and everything.

-E

[240z4u]

You sure your battery isn't taking a crap? I had an SVR battery that started doing things like that when it was failing.

[Booztd 3]

I wondered this, but its a red top that I replaced at the beginning of the year....

[240z4u]

Did this problem just pop up recently? Might not hurt to have that red top checked. At least it would be under warranty. I would disconnect that battery when it sits for extended periods because if you run them dead once.. they are never the same again (in my experience).

Evan

BTW, the alternator is definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

[Shocker]

Did this problem just pop up recently? Might not hurt to have that red top checked. At least it would be under warranty. I would disconnect that battery when it sits for extended periods because if you run them dead once.. they are never the same again (in my experience).

Evan

BTW, the alternator is definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

+1 in checking the red top out. (cheap insurance) But so is just replacing the Alt with the larger quest unit. I was seeing 13.5-14.2 volts constant while running both fans, standalone, ignition box, dual pumps, cd player, and all lights. Not to mention it can be done for less than $100 dollars and some of your time.

[USMCgetsome]

i'm with shocker. I just put a quest 110amp alt on my ka24de and i run 14" 12", 400watt amp 12in sub, 6k hid lights, charges like what shocker stated above. your charging system is failing!

[l0nestar]

Replied via SissyNet.
Modified by l0nestar at 7:32 AM 9/9/2009

[Booztd 3]

Sounds like you may have some worn brushes or slip-rings. This is easily repairable by any alternator/starter rebuild store. Or just bite the small .22 bullet and put a 110AMP Quest alternator in and be done with it.

Why not go for the 125 Amp unit?

It looks like advance auto parts sells the 99+ Quest (probably reman) for 179.99

[l0nestar]

Possibly the plug is different? :dunno: What is the mounting location like?

Why not go for the 125 Amp unit?

It looks like advance auto parts sells the 99+ Quest (probably reman) for 179.99

[Booztd 3]

I believe I found the issue tonight

i got some time to look in to it, and after talking with some people about the Optima Red Top Batteries, I am leaning towards the red top being the problem.

From my research, everyone thats ran a red top dead, and continued to use it, claims it has never been the same.

I started the car and warmed it up, and checked the voltage at the alternator, and it was around 12.5, also the same reading right at the battery

I went and got a loaner battery from Advance Auto Parts, and put it in the car. I measured the battery voltage before starting and it was around 12.5

I started the car up and checked the voltage, immediately the voltage was up to 14 and rising. After idling for 10 mins or so, the voltage at the battery, and the alternator was at 14.5

Just to double check I put the Optima back in the car, and the voltage at the battery and the alternator was 12.5 ish

It would seem the Optima isnt able to take more than 12.5-ish volts

I have put the Optima on a 2amp charge and will run it overnight to see what it charges to, and give it another shot.

The s***ty part about all of this is that the battery actually passes all the tests that Advance puts it through, so getting them to warranty the battery is going to be a PITA i have a feeling

[l0nestar]

I've popped 3 Yellow-tops. I will never use one ever again.

Like you stated, once they go low, they are never the same again.

[240z4u]

Andy, experience has been the same here.

Never run a yellow top in a car, they are not meant for that type of use FYI.

I also had a super crappy SVR battery as well back in the day. I don't like those either.

You would think something more reliable would be out there for the 150 optima is charging.

[HxC_Nismo]

yea sounds like a dead cell in the battery.

[Booztd 3]

I am still battling with advance on this one, I put the battery on the 2amp charger over night and took it to the store this afternoon. The test ran on the battery showed its cranking amps to be 850 and the battery is rated for 800, so technically its showing good.

I told the guy i am going to bring the car up there for them to see the issue first hand later this evening when I'm off work

[240z4u]

I have had very wierd issues with optimas like the ones you describe. So frustrating!

[Booztd 3]

Im starting to lean towards the alternator now, I put a fresh battery in it and the battery has been dipping down to 12.8's or so, and in my jeep it sits rock solid at 14V

I'm going to probably pick up a quest alt tonight and take it to the shop to get it fitted up....

[Booztd 3]

Replaced my small 12g wire that goes from the Alt to the Starter tonight with some 0g wire. That made a pretty good difference. With the car idling, no lights, no fans, the car sits at 14V. If i turn the fans on it dips down a little

I do believe the alt is showing its signs of age however. I have a professional grade amp tester at work, and at 2k rpms, and a full load placed on the system, the alt was only putting out about 70amps max, and once it reached 70amps, the battery voltage started to drop.

For the guys that have done the quest alternator, I need to know why most of you selected the 110amp version. There is only a 10 dollar difference between the 110 and 125 amp versions, and they both have the same 2-pin plug, which is the same as the Z32 as well. They also appear to be identical when it comes to mounting