liquid cool need some input.

[USMCgetsome]

ok so i uninstalled my ka24de manifold and deleted the egr and sealed it with EGR BLOCK OFF PLATE and jb weld. Then i took off my solenoids iacv/air reg and tested them with the 12vdc battery and watched them operate. Both are correct ohm read outs. I then lost my little spring to my iacv and replaced it.

I then reinstalled my intake manifold with new gasket and did the upper first then bolted in the lower. Tb also has new gasket. Replaced pcv valve. All new spark plugs gapped .044. New coolant thermostat 12" position.

Also, removed dizzy and man i sure as hell feel like i messed up the timing. I tried my best to put it back where it was and started her up and she backfired through the intake.

So then i removed the dizzy and lined up the 0 marker on the flywheel and reinstalled. Starts right up and idles at 750 all day. But is bogging when throttle applied and well she doesn't sound like she's firing right at all.

I think where my failure is that i didn't check to see if the cylinder #1 was at tdc when i lined up that 0tdc marker and reinstalled the dizzy.

Does that sound right to you? Also had her running and she heating up above normal temps. Checked vacuum and it's at 10 instead of the normal 23+25. It really sounds like i'm goofing but does this sound like i messed up the timing?

I'm gonna try it again tomorrow but with a screwdriver and another set of eyes to set it at #1 cylinder tdc. Give me some feedback and i'll post it up tomorrow. Btw it funny but i totally fixed the idle problem i was having lol.!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YES!

[Shabbernigdo]

on the little factory sticker under the hood i belive it seys the timing should be at 20 degrees B.T.D.C

[motoman399]

on the little factory sticker under the hood i belive it seys the timing should be at 20 degrees B.T.D.C

thats not what he is wondering. you need to make sure its at TDC on the compression stroke. meaning take off the valve cover and look at the first two cam lobes on both the cams. make sure that neither of them are pushing down the valves and then put it at the 0 mark on the crank pully. just make sure that your cams arent pushing down the valves on the no. 1 cylinder. that sounds like your problem

[liquid_cool]

easy way to check this...get some toilet paper , remove the spark plug wires and the sparkplug from the #1 piston..push the paper in the spark plug hole..slowly bump..not cranck the car over till the paper pops out..that will be the #1 cylinder at tdc'ish on the compression stroke...pop your chain cover and take a look at those cams..and pop the dizzy and look there too bro...let me know what ya got later.

[USMCgetsome]

Ok it was one tooth off. But i got all the same damn symptoms back. Ugh. It's even worse now. It surges at startup and idles not at 1800rpm constantly.

I Pinched the iacv hose and the idle drops significantly. My car overheats now when i drive it down the street. I think i got air bubbles still.

Post up tomorrow with more results. I'm pretty sure my iacv is not working right. Ohh also i had to screw in the fast idle screw all the way again. That was just to keep it from hitting 2000 rpm and higher pulse.

[USMCgetsome]

attempted to fix coolant problem. No luck. Fixed all leaks found 2 and replaced the clamps. Took a lil while. Does fine at idle but when i start to drive it goes high. If i drive with the heater on it goes 1 bar above the middle and stays when driving. At idle again it comes down to half.

What do you guys think? I just put in a new thermostat. I'm leaning towards it as being bad. That's the only new item in the system.

[motoman399]

are you sure your bleeding it correct. get a manual on it and read how. or look it up on the internet. it has been explained on here many times. good luck

[USMCgetsome]

Bled coolant as instructed using the tutorials. Problem solved. I never realized you have to take your time with them. Madness i say.

[motoman399]

i had the same problem a few years back. glad you fixed it!!

[liquid_cool]

any updates on the idle issue bro?

[USMCgetsome]

baby jebus! The saga continues. I'm pretty sure it has to do with the iacv. I pulled it off and took a spring from a pen and installed it in there. It brought down the idle to 1000 stable. Although, it just started to stumble today. I got it out on the highway today for a 127mi run today. The motor is solid and runs and jerked me back a little today. Got some balls to it.

I ordered a timing gun last week. Just waiting for it to show up then i'll have that sob right on the money where it should be. I'm sure since the motor hasn't been timed properly i'll still have issues. I'll keep you posted liquid_cool.

If this motor gives me any more issues i'm pulling it and putting in my old rb25det.

[liquid_cool]

hay bro..go down to charlie the junk man..and grab a new spring off of a maxima..or what ever runs a ka24...its a universal type part with plunger..just use your plunger..that pen spring wont hold up to normal engine bay heat...keep me posted

[USMCgetsome]

dayum. Didn't even think about that. lol. Sounds good.

[liquid_cool]

any updates bro?

[USMCgetsome]

lol yes! After i shut off my car it still runs for about 1 - 2 seconds like smokeys car on friday. lol. . Was thinking about changing fuel injector orings. What do u think?

[motoman399]

im not positive but check your timing. almost sounds too retarded

[USMCgetsome]

lol. Yeah i agree. I'm going to go set it in about an hr or so. I'll post up afterward

[USMCgetsome]

ok set timing again. Unplugged tps and set it to 20btdc last night but that damn iacv or acc(air reg) is still causing my high idle. Need to score both.

[liquid_cool]

junk yard man...you can score em offof a maxima if ya have to..just be shure there swappable..the maxima's are FF so the block sits sideways and is a pain to get to things..dont forget to grab some bucket shims for doing valve lash down the road..while your there..teehee.

[USMCgetsome]

got an offer of $75 from a nico member for the iacv/acc/ficd and harness to go with it. What do you think?

[USMCgetsome]

ok it's being shipped. I noticed in the pictures of the iacv solenoid that the plunger and spring stay retained in the solenoid. Mine just completely pops out and basically disassembles. This is how it's been since i first removed it. air regulator is ok but replacing with a new one.

[liquid_cool]

mine does the same thing as yours..but i dont mind the 2k idle..as a matter of fact..you dont need to step on the gas to start the car moving..lol..guess im lazy that way

[USMCgetsome]

lol!!!!!!!!!!! I think i see stalling the engine in my near future. Hopefully these new ones solve my issues.

[USMCgetsome]

ok i got in the new parts and cleaned then up and tested resistance values on all solenoids. ficd/aac/air reg. all good tolerances. My big question is now that i have these parts will the new harness from the 95 and up ka plug back into my old ka harness or do i just cut and solder the new connectors on to my old ka harness.

iacv 10 ohms

ficd 20.8ohm

air reg 60.8ohms
Modified by KUILLIN_DRIFTER at 11:58 PM 3/19/2009

[steveo240sx]

HEY MAN JUST WANTING TO KNOW IF THAT FIXED YOUR PROBLEM.

[USMCgetsome]

that's a negative today! i replaced iacv/ficd and the mount for them both. Still idles high. So i unplugged my tps and it shot up to 2000rpm and tried to come down. Adjusted the fast idle with tps removed it idled at 800 rpm. Removed and replaced tps with another i have but to no avail. Gonna change the air regulator tomorrow.

[USMCgetsome]

update!!!!

I replaced the gasket to the iacv. That was a major issue.

Put back on that iacv and ficd with the new harness from a 95 and up ka. Still idles high. But i clamped down the pcv line(small hose going to intake) and viola it idles at 700 rpm with fast idle screw at halfway mark no adjustment. Timed it this way as well.

i unclamped the hose and it shot up to 1500rpm.

Now keep in mind i replaced the pcv valve with a new one from autozone. I also check the pcv hoses for leaks and replaced those as well with new hoses and clamps. I checked the pcv metal line itself for cracks and to ensure there was no blockage. This was all before i reassembled the intake manifold.

So it leads me to believe the rest of the iacv/ficd/air reg are good. I wonder how the pcv valve can cause all this chaos. Gonna get a new one tomorrow and also replace fuel filter.

also a lil something i noticed. I changed driveshafts and replaced transmission fluid today. I found a cut harness going to a sensor and it wasn't the speed sensor. So i'm left to believe it is the damn neutral switch. It is right above and to the right/forward of the speed sensor. I think this also is causing an issue.
Modified by KUILLIN_DRIFTER at 10:29 PM 3/22/2009

[DryskalM3S13]

assuming the car is a 5 speed, that cut harness could be residual from an automatic swap? i ran into that problem on one of my other cars, never noticed anything suspicious until i had to replace the clutch slave. saw a whole mess of wires under taped up in the transmission tunnel, almost had a heart attack.

anyway... if it IS a 5 speed than the neutral switch harness is just spare wiring, standars obviously dont need the n/s switch. speed sensors usually give you odometer and instrument cluster issues.

[USMCgetsome]

odo and speedo working fine. Any other sensor besides the speedo down there.

[USMCgetsome]

this just hit me this morning. That line goes to the lower intake manifold only. i have no idea why the hell i said pcv system. Anyhow, so i'm thinking leaky throttle body? I checked the plate and cleaned it but this isn't my strong area of expertise. How can i tell if it's fully seated and not leaking?